Author Fucha Baoren Jilin Family Tree
Manchu food is slang
Throughout the ages, slang food and drink are the most basic cultural phenomena of a nation. As the ancient Chinese philosophers said: "Men and women who eat, people's great desires" and "the people take food as the sky". Eating and drinking is certainly an indispensable material condition for maintaining human life, but it is also a social and cultural phenomenon. The emergence and development of a nation's food culture has always reflected and embodied the social process and degree of civilization of this nation. This is the case with manchu food and slang culture.
The Manchus, who have been living here for generations, carry out fishing, hunting, farming and other production activities year after year. Therefore, their diet also has a strong northern regional characteristics, accumulating a colorful food folk culture, and containing an extremely rich connotation of fishing and hunting people's food culture.
The formation of a national diet and slang is inseparable from its long-term production and living habits. The Manchus are a fishing and hunting people in the north, eating mountain wild vegetables when they hit anything, eating wild vegetables when they don't hit anything, and eating wherever they go with a pot on their backs. In the cold Kanto Forest, this is indeed a good meal. Over time, it formed a Shabu-shabu hot pot with boiling water in a Manchu pot, cutting meat and fish into thin slices, and eating as much as you want.
The invention of hot pot originated from the cooking habits of northern ethnic groups such as manchus in the northeast. The Manchu ancestors who lived in the black water area of the White Mountains and black waters in their early years were very backward in their early years without the eating habits of stir-frying, unlike the Han people in the Central Plains, who had a variety of cuisines such as frying, stir-frying, cooking, and frying very early. In ancient times, the Manchu ancestors used the boiling method to eat the prey they hunted, the fish they caught and the rare wild vegetables they picked, creating an early civilization of the northern ethnic diet.
With the development of the times and the progress of human civilization, the Manchu ancestors went from cave dwellings and nest dwellings to Puluo (spire shacks), Ukdun (dizi), and Nagari (mud and grass houses). As a result, the mud pots and tile pots that the Manchus gathered in the open air to eat on the fire also became iron pots and entered the house, and gradually evolved into many kinds of hot pot specialties.
According to legend, the Manchu ancestors who long ago roamed the forests and rivers to fish and hunt for a living, because of the lack of iron pots, used wooden pots or wooden trough pots to cook shabu food. That is, dig a groove in the middle of a thick trunk, or nail a wooden square trough basin with a thick board. After boiling the stones over a boil, place them in a wooden pot filled with water to allow the water to boil and tumble. At this time, add the thinly sliced animal meat and fish meat, blanch and then dip it in salt or eat it with shallots, mountain garlic and mountain leeks. If the water in the pot does not roll, take out the stone with a stick and add a few hot stones. After eating the meat and fish, add some salt to the remaining fish broth, and order some mountain spinach, mountain cabbage, bright leaf vegetables, water chestnuts and other mountain wild vegetables to relieve the grease.
It should be said that the history of hot pot is quite long, when people bid farewell to the primitive career of Ru Mao drinking blood, knew the use of fire, with clay pot clay pot, there is a primitive hot pot boiling diet. It is conceivable that in ancient times, people gathered in front of the fire, and a few stones were supported by a clay pot and a fire was made under it. People boil slices of cut meat and fish in a pot and eat them with salt when they are not half cooked.
More than 50 years ago, when I was taking measurements in a mountain in Jilin Province, I also saw several mountain people in the mountains collecting medicinal herbs, eating hot pot around the fire and mud tile basin. Curious, I asked, "Why cook meat and shabu-shabu with a campfire or a clay pot?" I remembered the mountain people's answers, they said: "Eating like this is original, especially bright (beautiful)!" ”
It is unknown when manchu hot pot began, but in the Liaojin period more than a thousand years ago, the original "hot pot" diet should have been very common. This can be seen from two points, one is that the iron pot used by the Jurchens in the Liaojin Period was three ears, four ears, six ears and so on, this pot is easy to carry, when used under three or four stones can be boiled water to boil shabu meat, fish, vegetables and other things. Second, Jurchen people have the habit of wearing an antidote knife with them, regardless of whether raw meat is eaten with cutting. The Southern Song Dynasty ChengZong's "Xuanhe Yi HuaiWei Feng Envoy Jin Guo Itinerary" contains the Jurchen Food Custom:
Before the Zhu lacquer silver gilded cases, the fruit plate with jade, the wine vessel with gold, the food vessel with tortoiseshell, the basket with teeth. When encountering food, the hu people carried a dozen heads to the front, personally cut and cut the food to advance, known as the "Royal Kitchen Feast."
The Qing Dynasty's "Manchurian Origins Examination", which records that hot pot was commonly consumed in the Jin Dynasty, is more detailed:
The gold lord will gather together to eat together, and then on the kang, add a dagger to it, and list the leeks and long melons, all of which are salted. Do not use wooden plates to hold pigs, sheep, chickens, deer, rabbits, wolves, chamois, roe deer, foxes, cows, horses, geese, geese, fish, ducks and other meat, or burn or cook, or raw, with mustard garlic juice to clear the fertility, one after another for the column. Take a saber each and chop the rice.
From the above, we can see many dining customs of the Jurchens of the Jin Dynasty, one is that there is still a simple folk custom of monarchs and people eating at the same table; the second is that the low table is placed on the kang (the present-day Manchu Kang table is this legacy); the third is to first "list the meat of the grass (like the head of the garlic clove), the long melon (cucumber), all salted" (now the Manchu "table plate small dish" is this legacy); the fourth is to use "wooden plates to hold pigs, sheep, chickens, deer, rabbits, wolves, chamois, roe deer, foxes, cattle, horses, geese, geese, fish, ducks and other meat" (now the Manchus eat hot pot, prepared a variety of birds and chickens, Duck, fish meat, etc., that is, the custom of this relic); fifth, "or burn or cook, or raw, with mustard garlic juice to clear the fertility" (that is, the present Manchu people eat raw, grilled or cooked, dipped in mustard juice, garlic paste, soy sauce, sesame oil and eat the food custom); sixth is "successively offered" (that is, the custom of cooking fish, meat, and vegetables in the Manchu hot pot to eat on the side); seventh is "take the saber and cut the rice" (that is, the "antidote knife" worn by the Manchus and cut the meat themselves).
This body wears a knife to dissolve the food, and the way of eating it by cutting and cutting meat is the "national custom" of the Qing Dynasty. According to the Qing "Miscellaneous Records of the Xiaoting Pavilion", when the Qing Emperor and his subjects ate the "jubilee meat" of the sacrifice, they also "cut it with the imperial knife (anti-eating knife), and all the courtiers cut themselves and followed the national customs."
The customs of Jurchen food in the Liaojin period have been followed to the Qing Dynasty more than a thousand years later and even today, which can be described as "the golden wind full of rhyme has been passed down for a long time". No wonder the Yuan poet Liu Jingxiu Shiyun: "There are Yan Zhao in the rivers and mountains of Wanli, and the customs of a generation are Liaojin." The Manchu hot pot was inherited from ancient times, and in the Liaojin period more than a thousand years ago, it has gradually become a delicacy, and in the Qing Dynasty, it is the heyday of hot pot cuisine.
In the Qing Dynasty, hot pot was already a common delicacy for the Manchu common people and the Eight Banners nobles, but the meat, fish, mountain treasures, seafood, vegetables and vegetables under the pot were different. After the Qing Eight Banner Army entered the customs, it brought this delicacy into the city of Beijing. The Eight Banners garrisoned Mancheng (garrison camp) throughout the Central Plains and spread this delicacy to all parts of the country. Because of its delicious taste, simple and easy to make and fiery atmosphere, hot pot was soon loved by people everywhere, becoming a delicious dish on people's tables, and quickly swept the land of China.
The Eight Banners of the Qing Dynasty and the emperor were very fond of eating traditional hot pot, and the Kangxi and Qianlong emperors all toured their hometown in the East many times, hunting and fighting all the way, and it was common to eat a fresh hot pot. In the sixty-first year of the Qing Dynasty (1722), the Kangxi Emperor held a "Banquet of a Thousand Sorrows" in the Forbidden City, summoning the elderly Shuoyan of the prefectures and counties under the heavens to give a royal banquet to show the virtue of respecting the elderly. It set a precedent for Chinese emperors to set up a "feast of a thousand sorrows" in the palace to honor the elderly.
After the Qianlong Emperor ascended the throne, he set up two more banquets for the Thousand Sons. After the Jiaqing Emperor ascended the throne, inheriting the virtue of respecting the elderly and setting up a "Thousand Sorrows Banquet" in the palace, there were more than 1500 hot pots on the table, which should be the largest hot pot feast recorded in the annals of Chinese food history.
Bird pot, beast pot, ground pot
Manchu hot pot is a long-standing delicacy, it is a microcosm of the thousands of years of food civilization of this mountain forest fishing and hunting people. It shows the ancient Manchu ancestors who knew how to use fire and knew the food culture since the use of pots, what birds and animals were beaten, what mountain treasures and wild vegetables were picked, and all of them were boiled in boiling water pots and eaten. There are many opinions about who invented such a popular hot pot today, and which nation invented it. Some people say that genghis Khan Temujin, the "proud son of heaven" who founded China's Great Yuan Dynasty, invented it, and it was he who had difficulty cooking and drinking for a long time in the war of the horizontal knife and the immediate conquest of the west, and slowly raised the pot to cook meat, and accidentally invented the hot pot cuisine. Some people say that when Jin Taizu finished Yan A's bone to fight the Liao Conquest song, the iron horse ice river fought and had no time to cook meat to eat, and accidentally invented this delicacy.
During the Qing Dynasty, the wind of chinese hot pot was particularly popular, and the Jiaqing Emperor supported more than 1500 hot pots at a "Feast of a Thousand Sorrows", which was invented by the Qing Taizu Nurhaci when he rose to the northeast and urged the Eight Banners of Mongolia to march day and night. In fact, legends are legends. According to the chronological order of these legends, the Liaojin period in which Jin Taizu completed Yan Akuta was nearly 200 years earlier than genghis Khan's Jin, Song, and Yuan periods! That is in the late Ming Dynasty, the Qing Taizu Nurhaci is not to mention. But this is not enough to show that the "hot pot" cuisine was invented by the Golden Lady.
The original hot pot of the Liaojin period has become a delicacy for the Jurchen people who made a living from fishing and hunting at that time. It should be said that "hot pot" originated from many ethnic groups of the Manchu-Tungusic language family, and is a traditional diet formed by them for thousands of years to eat animals and eat with encounters. To this day, the Orunchun, Evenk, Hezhe, Daur, Xibe and other ethnic groups, which belong to the Tungusic language tribe with the Manchus, still like to eat the hot pot food handed down by the ancestors. Since the Qing Dynasty, hot pot has been a common food of the Manchus, almost every family has a hot pot, hit the birds and animals or people to come and go, always have to support the hot pot to eat a lively, red hot fire. There are roughly four kinds of hot pot that manchus usually eat, namely "heavenly pot", "ground pot", "game pot" and "seafood assorted pot". In addition, there are some unique ones
Hot pot, such as "mushroom eight treasure pot", "chrysanthemum hot pot", "hair belly hot pot", "bird hot pot", "three fresh hot pot", "clear soup hot pot" and so on. The "heavenly pot" is the "bird hot pot". When the Manchus eat the heavenly pot, the hot pot is first filled with water. Then, seasonings such as mountain peppercorns, shallots, and ginger slices are boiled in water together with the flying dragon meat (a small bird), which the Manchus call "flying dragon soup". This flying dragon soup is very delicious and is an indispensable fresh soup for eating bird hot pot. Sometimes people boil the dragon soup in advance, and when eating hot pot, you can pour it into the pot. The Great Northeast is rich in products, which provides a rich range of birds and animal meat for the Manchus to eat as soon as they want. Eat the heavenly bird pot, after the soup is adjusted, you can follow the pheasant, wild duck, pheasant, sand chicken, tree chicken, grouse chicken, or geese, swans, quail, mountain pigeons, sparrows, sparrows, water ducks, water birds and other birds. In short, as long as the birds can be caught, they can be eaten fresh under the hot pot. After slaughtering birds for half a day, it can only be grilled or braised and stewed. The birds in the northeast taste delicious, and the Manchus have an old saying: "It is better to eat a bite of the bird than to eat half a pound of animals." ”
The Manchu hot pot does not put salt, so eating the heavenly pot is just shabu-shabu bird meat in the tumbling flying dragon soup. Before eating meat, people will drink a small bowl of dragon soup per person, with a little salt, green onions, and chopped coriander to taste it first. After drinking the soup, it begins to eat delicious bird meat, dipped in traditional spices such as clear sauce, sesame oil, green onion oil, minced garlic, and leek flowers. After eating the bird meat, the Manchus will order some newly picked mountain spinach, stone vegetables, river cabbage, bright leaf vegetables, goose palm vegetables and other mountain wild vegetables in the soup. However, some wild mountain vegetables cannot be put into the hot pot because of their peculiar smell, such as slightly bitter lettuce, mother-in-law, willow sprouts or mountain celery, water celery, wasabi, quinoa, etc., which are not easy to put down the delicious bird pot, so as not to make the fresh soup "mixed". Eating mountain wild vegetables, the soup in the hot pot can be described as delicious and fragrant, people always have to drink a few bites of it, the Manchus humorously call it "slippery seam".
Fifty years ago, when I was surveying in the Changbai Mountains, I had the privilege of tasting an authentic Manchu heavenly bird pot, which was delicious and unforgettable. For a while, the book was in love, and Shang gave a small poem a praise:
Burn the outer pot on an empty stomach, and the meat fish mountain vegetables are on the kang table.
Fresh food delicacies must be eaten early, and the Feilong soup has many flavors.
The Manchu "beast pot" is specialized in eating the meat of wild beasts in the mountains, or it is mainly to eat the meat of beasts. Nowadays, wild animals are already protected animals, so in addition to some raised deer, roe deer, wild boar, mountain rabbits, etc., the deliciousness of most animal meat has become a memory of the past years.
Animal meat is generally relatively thin, so when the Manchus eat the beast pot, they must first use a dozen pieces of fatty pork and mountain shallots, mountain peppercorns, large ingredients and other soups. When the soup noodles are filled with shiny pork, you can boil the meat of deer, elk, roe deer, chamois, roe deer, bears, tigers, leopards, minks, rabbits, lynx suns, lynx suns, lynx Dahan, squirrels, chipmunks, gray rats, wild boars, goats and other mountain forest animal meat that have been sliced. As long as it is beaten, fresh can be boiled in hot pot. The meat of the animal is eaten with sauce, salt, sesame oil, green onion, minced garlic, leek flowers and other spices.
The Manchu "pot on the ground" is the traditional Manchu assorted hot pot that is now very popular. This kind of hot pot is mainly to eat the manchu favorite pork, but also some domestic chicken, duck, goose, lamb and so on. Eating the pot on the ground is also very exquisite, and the Manchus have these few words:
Eight ingredients boiled in broth, flared pork shabu blood sausage.
Sauerkraut is finely chopped to dissolve the grease, slip between the teeth and drink bowl soup.
These few words are smooth and smooth, and the Manchu "pot on the ground" is clearly explained in the process of making and eating. First of all, using bones such as cattle, sheep, pigs, deer, roe deer, chicken, pheasant, and flying dragon, accompanied by mountain peppercorns, shallots, ginger slices, large ingredients, salt, sugar and other spices, boiled in a large pot for eight or nine hours to make a "pot bottom soup". The soup tastes so delicious that the Manchus call it "broth".
The above-ground pot mainly eats pork and blood sausages, and the Manchus eat pork and blood sausages on the ground pot, which is different from the Practice of the Han People. First of all, when killing pigs, it is not like the Han people, but follows the old tradition of thousands of years, burning pig hair with firewood to make it scorched. Then, shave the pig hair with hot water to make the skin golden brown and have a burnt aroma when eaten. Cut the pork into half a foot square and put it in a pot, add the mountain peppercorns, large ingredients, ginger, shallots and other spices and cook. The boiled oil is added to the altar, and the solidified pork is called "meat oil" by the Manchus, which can be fried or stewed with beans, beans, and eggplants. The cooked pork is also placed on a board, and the remaining oil in the meat is pressed out with a coarse wooden bar. After pressing the oil, the three layers of meat (that is, fat and lean) are not only solid and chewy, but also not greasy and very tasty. The Manchus called it "white meat."
The production of Manchu blood sausages is more complicated, and the blood received by killing pigs should be added with salt and seasoning water made of mountain peppercorns, large ingredients, ginger, and green onions. Then, pour into the washed pig intestine, put it in the pot and cook until it is eight minutes cooked, and the pig blood can coagulate. This kind of blood sausage is not only cut without breaking, but also tender and delicious. Once the white meat and blood sausage are sliced, they are ready to be served. Sauerkraut is essential for the Manchus to eat pots on the ground. The Manchus have the custom of loving sour food, such as sour dumplings, sour dumplings, sour rice noodles, sour cucumbers, and sour mother dishes, all of which are beautiful things that like to eat. Sauerkraut is pickled with cabbage and is mostly pickled in the Ninth Month of the lunar calendar.
September 9 is the Chongyang Festival, so the Manchu sauerkraut is also known as "Chongyang Cuisine". To eat hot pot sauerkraut, get rid of the old gang outside, use the tender parts inside, and cut the sauerkraut carefully so that it is easy to cook and taste in the soup. The old manchus who have ripped off the sauerkraut will not be lost, and they can also be thinly sliced and left to make "stewed pork sauerkraut noodles", "sauerkraut white meat sausage" or "stir-fried (sour) vegetable noodles" and other traditional Manchu specialties.
The Manchu pot on the ground is more troublesome to prepare, and it is more talkative when eating. First, four, six or eight "pressed table dishes" should be placed, that is, sour cucumbers, sour radish, mother's dishes, pickled melon strips, pickled celery, pickled parsley, spicy mountain carrots, peanuts and rice. After adding the broth to the hot pot, you must first add three layers of white meat to boil the oil. Then, add the thinly sliced deer, roe deer, sheep, chicken, duck, fish and other meat to eat the umami. After that, add yellow cauliflower, river cabbage, cabbage, mountain spinach, bright leaf vegetables, mushrooms, tofu, frozen tofu, vermicelli and other vegetables in turn, and also eat their own unique bright taste. Because there is only one large hot pot on a table, and people are good at each other, it is inevitable that there will be a little clutter under the meat dish, so people slowly form a custom.
The Manchus have a hot pot food custom:
The front is under the pig and sheep walking the beast, and the back is the chicken, duck and goose meat.
Left boiled vegetables and mushrooms, right shabu-shabu shrimp flavor thick.
The parents or guests on the table are mainly animals and pork in front of the hot pot, chicken and duck in the back, mushrooms and vegetables on the left, and fish and shrimp on the right. There are also two pairs of chopsticks, and the inconvenient people help each other to sandwich meat dishes, and the atmosphere is very happy and harmonious. This Manchu hot pot slang custom is completely different from today's people eating hot pot and putting it in front of themselves, and messing around.
After people eat white meat and sausages, chicken, duck, fish, sheep and vegetables, the soup in the hot pot has emerged a layer of oil, which is the time to order sauerkraut, vermicelli and frozen tofu. First, sauerkraut likes oil, and sauerkraut is not delicious when the oil is small. Second, if the sauerkraut is put early, it will not be able to eat the taste of fresh meat and fresh fish. After the sauerkraut is served, the hot pot soup immediately becomes sour and salty, and people have to drink a small bowl after eating the rice, which makes them feel happy. The Manchu hot pot, meat aroma, fresh dishes, soup beauty, so that the Manchu people have a feeling of constant abandonment, so the red hot pot, from the ancient times to the present.
Jilin Ula hot pot
The Manchu "white flesh blood sausage sauerkraut hot pot" is very representative, although the hot pot that the Manchus in the three provinces of Northeast Ji, Hei and Liao like to eat have their own regional characteristics, but this white meat blood sausage sauerkraut hot pot is a common favorite of people everywhere, following the Manchu ancestors for at least a thousand years of time.
Hot pots that eat white flesh and blood sausages are mostly popular in Jilin, Heilongjiang and other Manchu areas. Among them, the hot pot in the Border Area of Jilin City, especially in the Manchu Town of Ula Street on its northern outskirts, is the most famous. This is directly related to the history of Jilin City and the Manchu town of Wula Street.
Jilin City was originally called Jilin Wula. Jilin, Manchu for "along"; Ula, Manchu for "river", that is, "city along the river" meaning. In the Qing Dynasty, Jilin Ula City was the place where the Jilin generals stationed in the vast areas of Jilin and Heilongjiang to Sakhalin Island. There are many Manchu and Mongolian Eight Banners army and family members living here, so eating hot pot was very prosperous here.
The Manchu town of Ula Street in the northern suburbs of Jilin City has deep roots. Here have unearthed many bohai countries, Liaojin period Manchu ancestors of the Jin dynasty and Jurchen relics, there are experts to verify, here is also the Liaojin period Jurchen fortress Ningjiang prefecture site. The White Flower Princess Diantai of the Manchu Town of Ula Street is said to be the place where princess Baihua, the sister of the Grand Marshal of the Golden Kingdom, is still passed down to many legends. In the Ming Dynasty, the Manchu town of Ula Street was once the capital of the Ula Tribe (Kingdom), one of the Jurchens of Haixi (i.e., the Four Divisions of Hulun). The Ula tribe lived along the Songhua River, so the Ming Dynasty also called the Jurchen "JiangYi". In addition to riding horses and shooting and hunting, this Ulabu Jiangyi is also very good at net fishing, and it is slightly different from the Jurchen Changbai Mountain Department, ZhusheLi Department, Nayin Department, Yalu River Department and Jianzhou Zhubu who live in the surrounding areas of Changbai Mountain, and are slightly different in dietary customs.
In addition to eating birds and animals, the Jurchens of Ulabu also fished a large number of fish, so there are still many ancient relics of Manchu fish eaters such as sashimi, artemisia stewed fish, and boiled river fish in the Jilin region today. In the Qing Dynasty, Ula Street was the seat of the Yamen, the governor of the Ula Dynasty. In the hundreds of miles around Jilin, there are many paddocks, gongshan and gonghe of the Qing court, which are rich in products, with sealed piles (border piles) and Karen (outposts); there are eight banner army soldiers and horses guarding, and set up the chief steward of the livestock Ula, who are in charge of paying tribute to the imperial court, such as mountain treasures, birds, animals, dongzhu and ginseng.
The fish ding, zhu ding, shan ding, honey ding, eight flag soldiers, Bao Yi Aha (family slaves) and family members under the jurisdiction of the Animal Sacrifice Gate are all Manchurian banner people. Because these people live relatively closed in many Gashan (village tun), their descendants have inherited many of the food customs of their ancestors, and for this reason, the hot pot in Jilin Ula Street is authentic. Ula Street hot pot has a long tradition, the breeze is full of charm, and the local style is remarkable.
Today, in Jilin City, Ula Street and the surrounding area, there are dozens of hot pot restaurants with Ula or Ula Street hot pot signs in business. Ula hot pot has become the golden sign of a special hot pot of the Manchu people in Jilin region. There is a Fengjiyuan Jiajia hot pot in the Manchu town of Ula Street, which has a history of 100 years, and is known for its white flesh and blood intestines fat but not greasy, beef, sheep, chicken and wild game mountain treasures are fresh and delicious. There is also a Fucha hot pot on Ula Street, the history of which can be traced back to the late Jin Dynasty in the early Qing Dynasty.
Three years after Jin Tiancong (1629), nearly 400 years ago, Emperor Taizong of the Qing Dynasty sent Fu chamaitu, a liupin military guard, to go to Da Ula Yu (now the Manchu town of Ula Street) to serve as Gashanda (Manchu: township chief), followed by more than 100 people, including their family members and clothed Aha (family slaves).
After the Qing Dynasty of Dingjing, in the fourteenth year of Shunzhi (1657), the yamen of the great Ula Yu was established, and The governor of The Yamen was appointed as the governor of The Gate. For more than 30 years, Maitu has held the positions of Gashanda and The Chief of Animal Fighting, and has been praised many times for his outstanding political achievements, and has led to many descendants being appointed as the chief steward of the Animal Fighting Gate. Due to the increasing number of tributes and the larger and larger areas under his jurisdiction, the official position of the chief steward of cattle was also getting bigger and bigger, and he was already a member of the imperial court at the highest time.
Maitu is the fifth ancestor of this branch of Fuchahara (surname). He was a Jurchen of the East China Sea in the area of present-day Hunchun, Jilin Province. After Maitu was instructed to come to the Great Ula Yu, he counted four generations of six people as high-ranking officials who were the chief of the animal Ula. This branch of the Fucha clan flourished in Ula Street, and because many people had served as generals, they were called "General Fu".
The general fu surname of Ula Street, the family has a hot pot, the family eats hot pot, and the family has its own ha la (surname) hot pot making secret recipe. A 12th generation descendant named Fu (Fucha) Yuqiu opened a Fucha hot pot restaurant, specializing in hot pot using the hot pot making method passed down from generation to generation in the family. Because its hot pot has a long tradition and is made according to the ancient method of the Qing Dynasty, it has a unique Manchu traditional hot pot flavor.
The author is the Manchu Fucha clan, whose ancestors belonged to the Manchurian yellow flag, Mr. Yuqiu was also a Fucha clan, and his ancestors were also attached to the Manchurian yellow flag. Although the author's ancestors are the Jurchen Nayin Department of the Three Parts of Changbai Mountain, and the ancestors of Yuqiu are the Jurchen Department of the East China Sea, as the old saying goes: "People do not kiss Hala (surname) relatives." "After I was fortunate enough to get to know Yuqiu, I also had some understanding of his family's long-standing Fucha hot pot.
Yu Qiu said that the place where his Ancestors of mu kun (clan) lived was close to the sea and backed by the mountains, so since four or five hundred years ago, he has relied on the mountains to eat the mountains and the sea, and the daily food is mainly to eat wild animals, birds and fish. In those years, because there was no place to live during hunting, he rode with him to carry a pot and a fire sickle and flint, and wherever he went, he would support the hanging pot and raise the fire, and after the water in the pot boiled, he would cut the wild game into thin slices and put it into the pot to be boiled and eaten, thus forming the original hot pot of my family's general Fu (Fucha)."
According to Yu Qiu's words, its Fucha hot pot is indeed inherited from the ancestral customs. He said that the hot pot passed down by the general Fu family is the most important thing to mix the soup, and the soup will be bright after the hot pot is adjusted. There are two kinds of soup in my family, one is to adjust the bird soup, using flying dragons, pheasants, mountain pigeons, geese, swans and other birds to mix. That is, after blanching these bird skeletons with boiling water, adding my secret seasoning package, cooking it for five or six hours, and then concocting a delicious bird soup. The other is a beast soup made of deer, roe deer, roe deer, roe deer and bones such as pigs, cattle and sheep, plus secret ingredients. My family's bird soup and animal soup, the secret ingredients used are not the same, so the bird soup is delicious and clear, and the animal soup is fragrant and thick.
Yu Qiu said that no matter how many guests there are, we also strictly process the food material according to the method handed down by the ancestors, and when the soup is used up, we will never add water to pay for it and make money; the pork meat we use is all good meat with high prices and three layers of flowers, and we also have to burn the hair, burn it to the right temperature, use a bar to press out large oil, and so on; many of the spices we use are the ancient traditional spices of the Manchus. Nazan peppercorns (Schizandra vine), mountain onions, mountain garlic, etc. are all essential.
Through the interview with Yuqiu, I seem to see the development and change of the traditional Manchu hot pot. The Manchu people, who carried a pot in the early years and hunted in the forest, are now divided into categories and are not tired of eating, but the Jurchen diet is still ancient. Fucha's hot pot today is also divided into heavenly pot, ground pot, beast pot, mushroom pot and so on, of which "Fucha's eight treasures hot pot" should be its leader brand name.
It should be said that the eight treasures of the General Fu family's hot pot are the masters of the Manchu high-end hot pots, and the ingredients are sika deer, mountain boar, pheasants, flying dragons, husky toads, ginseng, monkey head mushrooms, immortal grasses and other birds and animals produced by the wild creatures of Changbai Mountain, and mountain treasures. When eating shabu, it is accompanied by wild wild vegetables such as yellow cauliflower, safflower, willow sprouts, sprouts, mountain celery, river cabbage, duckbill, and mountain specialties such as yuan mushroom, hazelnut mushroom, pine mushroom, flower mushroom, lamb tripe mushroom, lilac mushroom, fungus fungus, stone ear, black ear and so on.
Yu Qiu said, "I think the Kangxi Emperor also ate my family's 'Eight Treasures Hot Pot'!" "The ancestors in the Yuqiu family have been passed down from generation to generation, and in the twenty-first year of the Qing Dynasty (1682), when the Kangxi Emperor toured Jilin Ula in the east, accompanied by the Jilin general Bahai, he took a boat to yamen, the chief steward of the Ula of Fighting Animals. At that time, it was Yuqiu's sixth ancestor Mandalhan who served as the chief of the Cattle Fighting Gate.
The Kangxi Emperor was tired of the delicacies and wanted to try the local delicacies of his hometown in Kanto. Therefore, Mandarhan called the stove head (chef) at home and carefully made a table of broth hot pot, a table full of Traditional Manchu hot pot from Changbai Mountain.
The Kangxi Emperor tasted it carefully, and this changbai mountain bird and beast full of local flavor and wild vegetable mountain treasure were quite appreciated, and asked: "What is this hot pot, so delicious?" ”
Mandarhan knew that this rustic hot pot in the soil was nameless at all, and it was not a crime of deception to offer the nameless food to the emperor to eat? He hurriedly said, "It is a delicacy passed down from the slave family, called 'Eight Treasures Hot Pot'." ”
Since then, the eight treasures of the Fu family of the general of Ula Street have been passed down from the sixth ancestor Mandarhan. Usually eat hot pot, that is the Fu family's home-cooked meal to support the pot to eat, to the New Year's festival and festive days, must eat a soup delicious eight treasures hot pot.
Seafood pot, mushroom pot, fish pot, chrysanthemum pot
In the early years, the Manchus relied on the mountains to eat the mountains and the sea to eat the sea, eat with the encounter, and settle down with the encounter. The vast areas of Jilin and Heilongjiang are not close to the sea, and the Manchus here eat pigs, birds, animal meat, sauerkraut, and mountain vegetables.
In many parts of Liaoning, the Manchus live along the coast, and the hot pot they eat is mostly seafood hot pot.
The Manchu seafood hot pot is mostly seafood such as oyster yellow, crab, flower clam, prawns, and sea rice in the water, and the soup is made of shallots, ginger, peppercorns, and large ingredients. After drinking some soup and tasting the freshness, I put fish fillets into the hot pot, or birds, animals, or pork. As stated in the Fengtian Tongzhi:
Ginseng, tendons are served with pork, sheep, cattle, fish, chicken, duck, pheasant, clam, crab meat... When the soup is boiling, cook all the meat, chicken and fish, and its taste is delicious.
Assorted hot pot is a wild vegetable that is shabu-shabu after eating meat, and it is also the last to order a strong sauerkraut dish. At this time, the sauerkraut is soaked in the fat in the pot, and it is very sour and salty to eat. Therefore, not only the Manchus like to eat, but also the Han people who have broken into the Kanto region also eat and chew and enjoy it.
The Great Northeast region is vast, especially before the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the northern territory of the northeast of the motherland is far south of the Daxing'an Mountains, and the northeast territory is in the Sea of Okhotsk (including Sakhalin Island). The Manchus and their lineage, the Heilongjiang Savage Jurchen and the East China Sea Savage Jurchen, have been scattered between this vast forest and river sea since ancient times.
Because the Manchus are distributed in such a wide area, some food customs are still slightly different, and after the Qing Dynasty settled in Beijing, due to the subtle influence of regional and Han culture, the differences in food customs between Manchus in various places were even greater. This can be seen from the various ways to eat Manchu hot pot.
Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, although the Manchu hot pot was ever-changing, it did not leave its ancestors, and it was still burning charcoal to eat "pots" (manchu "hot pot"), but there were also many kinds of unique hot pots. For example, "qingshui pot" is only clear water in the hot pot, and after the water is boiled, it is served in turn under a variety of birds, animals, fish and poultry, white meat and blood sausages, dipped in salt or sauce, sesame oil, leek flowers, minced garlic, chili oil and eaten, which is characterized by the meat eaten to maintain the original taste of fresh and mellow.
"Mushroom hot pot" is a soup mixture that specializes in eating wild mushrooms from the vast area of Changbai Mountain. Pine mushrooms born under pine trees, willow mushrooms born under willow trees, hazel mushrooms born under hazelnut trees, elm mushrooms born on elm trees, mulberry mushrooms born on mulberry trees, locust mushrooms born on locust trees, as well as powder mushrooms, flower mushrooms, red mushrooms, oil mushrooms, morel mushrooms, clove mushrooms, broom mushrooms, lilac mushrooms, green cover mushrooms, and wood ear, stone ear, sand ear, mulberry ear, mulberry ear, etc., all of which have their own pleasant taste, and are all mountain treasures with clear hot pot. It is really rare to taste the delicacies of this forest in the area around Changbai Mountain.
"Fish hot pot", the Manchu people are the northern fishing and hunting people, fish was one of the main foods they relied on in their early years. There are two ways to eat Manchu fish pots, one is a relatively primitive water shabu-shabu, and then dipped in salt noodles or dipped in sauce, sesame oil, green onions, minced garlic, leek flowers and other condiments to eat. It is characterized by the tender and delicious fish, and the soup after eating the fish is also very fragrant, and finally it is eaten with mountain vegetables, mushrooms or sauerkraut to accompany the meal. There is also a way to eat fish hot pot, which is to first use pigs, cows, sheep, chickens, dragons and other bones to make out the broth, or use crabs, clams, prawns, rice, oyster yellow and other seafood broth. Then, add the fillets and eat them.
The Great Northeast region inhabited by the Manchus is not only bordered by the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea, the Sea of Japan, the Sea of Okhotsk and the Tatar Strait, but also has many rivers and lakes such as the Songhua River, the Heilongjiang River, the Mudanjiang River, the NenJiang River, the Liao River, the Xingkai Lake, and the Jingpo Lake. The large cattle carp, sturgeon, sturgeon, uva, luda, and other fish produced in these rivers and lakes weigh two or three hundred kilograms; the medium carp, carp, zhelu, falu, and da Maha also weigh tens of kilograms; and the slightly smaller carp, bighead carp, perch, sea bass, and white fish also weigh more than a dozen or twenty kilograms. These fish are freshly beaten and sliced, and are the best fish hot pot delicious ingredients. After the Manchu hot pot Manchu hot pot with the cloud dragon pattern entered the city of Beijing with the Eight Banners of Manchuria and Mongolia, the food became exquisite and exquisite.
In the Qing Dynasty, a "chrysanthemum hot pot" was popular in the autumn and winter seasons of Beijing, which was a heart-warming, stomach-warming and fragrant delicacy in that cold time, and was very popular with people of all ethnic groups such as the Manchu Han Dynasty. The Qing dynasty document "Qing Barnyard Banknotes" contains a very detailed description: In the winter of the Beijing Division, the restaurant sells drinks. There is a small kettle, a soup in which the fire is blazing, and the meat slices of chicken, fish, and sheep are plated, and the guests throw themselves in, and eat them cooked. There are miscellaneous chrysanthemum petals, known as chrysanthemum hot pot. After the Qing Dynasty and DingJing, the royal and eight flag nobles not only did not get tired of eating, but also the way of eating "pots" was also renovated, but also extravagantly sought delicious utensils, and even had the saying that "delicious is not as good as beautiful utensils". The traditional Manchu hot pot is mostly tin hanging in a brass pot, and there is also an iron hot pot.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the hot pots of the Manchu nobles already had fancy pots with enamel colors on the outside, gold pots and silver pots with gold and silver on the outside. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, the pots of the Manchu people in the northeast have not changed much, or copper pots with tin or iron hot pots.
The Manchus have two special kinds of hot pot to talk about. Both types of hot pots are used by Manchu people without pots. It is said that it is a hot pot, which is actually a small pot, one is to put the mud brazier used for Manchu winter heating on the kang after the charcoal is burned. Above the brazier is a kang table with a round hole in the middle, on which is placed a small iron pot. The table is filled with pork, blood sausage, frozen tofu, sauerkraut, mountain vegetables and other ingredients, as well as sauce, green onions, minced garlic, sesame oil, leek flowers and other spices, and the charcoal fire of the brazier will boil the soup in the small pot, and the family can eat hot pot happily. There is also a kind of hot pot that is even simpler, after the charcoal brazier is burned, it is placed directly on the kang, and the small iron pot is placed on the brazier. Then, the meat, sauerkraut, blood sausage, vermicelli, frozen tofu and other ingredients are placed directly on the kang, and the family or relatives and friends sit cross-legged on the kang and eat around the small pot, which is also red hot, everyone is happy, and there is a great legacy of the ancient Jurchen hot pot. Therefore, the way to eat is very earthy, and the black clay brazier and black iron pot are all on the kang, so the Manchus jokingly call it "black blind man (black bear) on the kang".
Today, people are living affluent lives, and although it has become fashionable to eat without getting bored, many Manchus still like to eat hot pot. Especially when many rural people's New Year's Festival, they always have to eat an old-fashioned hot pot with holes on the Kang table, or eat the "black blind man on the Kang" that is very local. In fact, it is not that people can't afford to eat this or that kind of hot pot, but they are eating the local customs of the family, eating the unforgettable taste that their mother left behind when they were young, and eating the golden customs, breezes, and rhymes that have been passed down for a long time and have lasted for a long time!
The small hot pot left the Manchus not only delicious, but also the memories of the past years of cautious pursuit!