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Identification of entry-level bone classes

author:User 3879572668

Bone play, little brother I only know from the tantra of Tibetan Buddhism. The difficulty of starting the spirit bone is as difficult as that of ordinary people, and it is impossible to ask for it without a chance. And the protective grade of bone, this topic is sensitive, see the wisdom of it. The entry-level ones are 'deer, camels, horses, cows, snakes'. The little brother of the horse bone has not been touched, so he will not say it.

  Let's start with the most common cow bones

  Most of the cattle bone products on the market are white, which is caused by degreasing and bleaching. When semi-degreased, it is yellow and white, with vertical growth lines, thick and obvious.

  The other is dyeing; the dyeing points are about two kinds, one is a high-temperature baking color, the baked place is brownish yellow or even dark brown, this coloring method is usually not very uniform, and there is a significant color difference at the section.

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  The other is soaking dyeing, the color is uniform, there is no change in shade, the color of this dyeing is more, but most of them are not suitable for wearing and playing, after all, chemical things are not good for the body.

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  The color that really plays out is natural, and the yellow color similar to the mango is a little darker. Shades of color transition naturally.

Identification of entry-level bone classes
Identification of entry-level bone classes

  Then there's the camel bone

  The hump bone is slightly yellower than the cow bone, denser, and smoother to the touch. Than cattle bone pressure hand. Beads or ring objects should generally not appear white and yellow difference, but large objects are common.

  There are not many camel bones stained, so there is no stained figure directly

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  Camel bone density is high, so it is less difficult to color than cattle bone, and the discoloration is not obvious after many years of play, but the feel is oily and moist, and jade is generally the same.

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  Deer Bone

  The color of deer bones is slightly whiter than that of camel bones, and it is more transparent than cow bones. The strings of currency beads vary in color, and some of them are bloody, that is, hairy. Because the deer is small and the bone wall is thin, large objects are rare, mostly small beads and small rings. In the case of large beads, there are individual beads that are not selected to see the bone dense, the small eyes on the bone, and the small dots.

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  Finally, there is the snake bone

  Snake bone does not say, see the bone can see how it is alive, too easy to distinguish............

  Snake bone this thing... Just looking at the bone can almost see when it is alive, almost no merchants go to find other bones to impersonate, and the snake bone features are too obvious.

  This one is a little python

  The type of snake basically does not affect the shape of the body bone, probably can only be separated from the size, according to the adult snake calculation, the diameter of the spine more than 22mm (after grinding off the bone spurs) can basically be determined as a python, or even a cockroach. More than 15mm is also possible to be a python, 15 is basically not. (Mere common sense inference, without any absolute definition)

Identification of entry-level bone classes

  The circle in the picture is a rib, in order to facilitate wearing, the general business has been polished.

  Below is the snake bone as it is

  From this figure, we are wearing only the most central part of the snake bone spine, and from this structure and proportion, we can probably deduce how big the snake bone in your hand is when it is alive.

Identification of entry-level bone classes
Identification of entry-level bone classes

  Finally, there is the maintenance and play of bones

  Several major problems of maintenance:

  1. Cracking

  Cracking is mostly caused by rapid dehydration, so try not to wear it when bathing and swimming. In case you accidentally soak in water, don't see the wind, suck it dry with toilet paper and dry it. In winter, it is best to stay away from the heating stove or something, and hot roasting is also one of the reasons for rapid dehydration. There is also a large temperature difference in a short period of time, that is, thermal expansion and contraction, for example: working in the freezer freezer in the summer, and frequent indoor and outdoor in and out of the northeast in the middle of winter.

  2. Siltation

  If there is bone dense on the bone, it is the kind of small holes and small eyes that are dotted with dots, it is recommended to cloth the plate first, hang the porcelain and get started, and wash your hands before the plate. Let a thin layer of pulp be left to dry for a week before starting. Otherwise, it is very easy to accumulate silt, and the black mud inside the small eyes cannot be cleaned up.

  Snake bones are an exception, this thing has too many bone sockets, it is not easy to clean, and it must be cleaned frequently. You can use a cotton swab to dry wipe, really can not wipe off can be dipped in oil or a little water wipe.

  3. Placement

  If you do not wear it for a long time, clean the surface and brush it with a thin layer of oil. Any oil will do, as long as it's oil. (Exceptions such as oil and soy sauce...) )

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