In the context of Chinese culture, the highest praise is "taste". Chinese perception and definition of "taste" comes from and goes beyond diet. "There is a taste" should be a very beautiful feeling, unclear, unclear but enjoyable. The taste that can be left in people's hearts must quietly let the tip of our tongue appreciate the beauty; it must contain a gentle love and deep affection, which warms you from time to time; it must make you full of infinite imagination, from the evolution of taste to the flow of years and the change of history.
"Learning to strengthen the country" Huzhou learning platform, Huzhou release, Huzhou Evening News, love Huzhou jointly launched the column "Huzhou Taste", through personal memory and research to restore the city scene, reflecting Huzhou's style, flavor, atmosphere and demeanor in all stages of history. In addition to invitations, netizens are also welcome to submit articles, and the remuneration is excellent. Manuscripts can be sent to [email protected], please write "Huzhou taste" on the subject.
"Taste of Huzhou" Invited Author: Yu Fan
Submission email: [email protected]
On the afternoon when I was 6 years old, I first saw the "straw paper package" wrapped in tea four treasures, pale yellow kraft paper, dark yellow grass rope, bundled together, sealed with red paper. At that time, a group of our boys were photographing foreign films under one of the eaves of a broom in Huzhou's front street, this bag of tea was brought by Wang Chongdan, he came late, originally he was going to pull over, and when we were finished playing, it was his turn to play, but when he put the straw paper bag on the tricycle board parked next to him, everyone leaned up.
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I was young and stood on the outside, and the feeling of "chicken eating chaff can't help" made me feel helpless. Through their gaps, Wang Chongdan was vaguely seen slowly untying the straw paper rope, removing the red paper, and opening the straw paper package.
"Rose crisp!" "Salt and pepper peach slices!" "Kraft candy!" "Walnut cake!" The big kids who knew the goods reported the names of the tea food one by one, and I heard about it for the first time.
"Don't rob! I'll divide! Oops! "Cut ~" A gust of wind, everyone has already snatched all of Wang Chongdan's tea food, I only thought that I would suffer a loss if I couldn't grab it, I didn't look at it and took a handful, but I also cut my hand, opened it, and the originally very brittle piece of thin pieces was broken into three sections, black and white.
"Yo, your piece is a salt and pepper peach slice!" Wu Jing told me that his mouth was full of powdered sugar.
I immediately took a section and stuffed it into my mouth. Well! crisp! I love the crispness! fragrant! What a fragrance! The black one turned out to be sesame seeds! Hey, there seems to be walnuts!
"I'll change with you!" Wu Jing said.
"What is yours?" I squinted at the mess of flour in his hand, and it seemed that he was in a fierce competition for this tea.
"Mine is rose crisp." Wu Jing's eyes were full of anticipation.
"No, you've all been pinched apart by you!" It looks good! "In fact, I am still very curious in my heart, after all, it is the first time to eat tea, but the mouth should be hard and the posture should be good."
"Oh, the candy itself is like this, so you eat mine first, you think it's delicious, you give me a little bit of salt and pepper peach slices?"
"Well..." I took a handful of rose puff pastry that had been crushed into powder. Oh, it's so sweet, this incense, this incense is the incense of the bibimbap with lard, it's lard! I took another handful to eat, "What? Wu Jing was a little reluctant, and the expectation in his eyes was even more sufficient!
"Not good! Cough" While eating while talking, I was choked to the trachea by the flour of rose crisp, and a mouthful of flour sprayed on Wu Jing's face, "Want my pretzel peach slices, no way!" "I ran away.
"No way to bounce back! Must be given to me! "Wu Jing chased all the way.
"Rebound is ineffective and bounce again, grab me and I'll give you food!"
After 30 years, the horizontal washing broom lane is no longer there, but the tea food Sizhen can still be bought, and I am glad that it is still the recipe, or the taste. I've always wondered, why is it called tea? Why are there so many varieties of tea in Gangnam? What kind of Reiki brain melon can create these personal delicacies? These questions have been haunting since the afternoon of that six-year-old, until I heard a song by Cai Qin, and then I made up my mind to find the source of tea.
Later Tang Feng Zhen's "Miscellaneous Records of Yunxian" is a favorite of nerds like me, because he has recorded some anecdotes of Wei Jin and Tang Dynasties, including Sikong Tu's "Youren Pen", Bai Juyi's "Flying Cloud Shoes", Du Fu's "Night Flying Cicadas" and so on, straight to the point that I saw the chapter of "Wu Xingmi". "Wu Xing rice, cooking incense; white horse beans, eating teeth drunk." Lady Yu Guo's cook, Deng Lian, used this rice mash as a flower fin and washed the skin of the bean as a lingsha gourd for the Cui YuanTang. ”
"Wu Xingmi", "White Horse Bean", "Lingsha Gang", "Transparent Flower Fin", this string of codes hidden in ancient books, is it the predecessor of Huzhou tea food?
Tang Zhang Xuan - Lady Yu Chuntu
Yang Guifei's eldest sister was crowned Lady Korea, the third sister was named Lady Guoguo, and the eighth sister was named Lady Qin Guo
The answer to the problem lies in Lady Yu Guo and Deng Lian. Once the Tang Dynasty painter Zhang Xuan had a painting of "Lady Yu Guo You Chun Tu", now the original target, the facsimile is from the Song Dynasty, is the treasure of the Liaoning Museum. Lady Yu Guo was Yang Guifei's third sister, and was a young widow, these sisters of the Yang family were all beautiful people who fell into the country, once Tang Xuanzong could not hold on to Lady Yu Guo, Yang Guifei was jealous, which annoyed Tang Xuanzong, and the emperor sent Gao Lishi to send Yang Guifei back to her mother's house, but later she missed it very much. After Yang Guifei knew that After Togolis offered a bundle of his own hair, the two of them released their previous suspicions and swore an oath in the hall with Tanabata Night that they would never be separated.
Yes, the Hall of Oath was the Hall of Eternal Life, and this story was later known as the famous drama "Hall of Eternal Life".
Lady Yu guo, who robbed the emperor with her sister, was very clever, and if she wanted to keep the emperor's heart, she must first leave his stomach. The emperor is a foodie who eats all over the world, what kind of food can break down his taste barriers? It needs to be the best ingredient, good rice, and it has to be "Wuxing rice with cooking incense", yes, it is our Wuxing rice in Huzhou.
Flower fin
How? Can't be milled, can't be milled, but pounded, pounded into a flower fin. You can imagine this action of pounding rice, pounding it one by one, very religious and ritualistic, pressing the air quickly into the cracks of the rice molecules, every impact, every oxidation, and finally turning the rice into crystal clear - transparent flower fin. I also added white horse beans, peeled to make bean paste, and a nice name "Lingsha Gang", I guess it is similar to the fine sand in the current "fine sand sheep's tail". Finally, it is also necessary to "provide for the Cui Mandarin Hall", which is the sleeping hall of Lady Yu Guo, why is it called "offering"? Waiting for the emperor to come, he was reluctant to eat.
The person who makes this dish is called Deng Lian, who is Deng Lian? There were six arts in the tang dynasty, namely: Deng Lian's cuisine, Lan Caihe's wine, Lei Haiqing's pipa, Li Guinian's song, Zhang Yehu's bì chestnut, and Gongsun Daniang's sword. During the Prosperous Tang Dynasty, dignitaries and nobles competed to pursue them, and once sat as guests, and as a result, after the Anshi Rebellion, some of them were killed, and some of them were exiled to the people, basically going to Jiangnan. This is the follow-up to the "Jiangnan Feng Li Gui Year" style - "it is the good scenery of Jiangnan, and the flower season is also the jun".
After the Anshi Rebellion, Deng Lian and his disciples and others flew into the homes of ordinary literati and local officials in desperation, but why did they come to Jiangnan? Because only Jiangnan has ingredients that they can play, there was previously a luxurious life in the court as a source of food and economic resources, and now it can only be close to the water tower.
During the Middle and Tang Dynasties, a collection of cultures arose in Jiangnan, marked by Lu Yu's "Tea Classic", and "tea culture" became one of the mainstream cultures of the literati class. In addition to drinking tea, the literati also had to fight tea, but also began to use some special foods as tea, and the Tea Classics recorded the tea fruits, tea porridge and other tea foods of the previous dynasties, "Pu Peach, Wan Que, Qi Persimmon, Yan Li, Gongyang Yellow Pear, Wushan Vermilion, Xiji Stone Honey." After the cold temperature is over, it should be the tea of frost and flowers, and the three lords should end, and there should be a cup of cane, papaya, yuan li, bayberry, five-flavor olive, hanging leopard, and sunflower soup. ”
The original tea food, eating very mixed, mostly based on natural fruits, but gradually once the court cuisine was more sought after by the literati, exquisite materials, exquisite techniques, delicate taste of pastries, began to be used to accompany tea. In the "Tea Classic", there is a saying that "tea is the same as eating rice".
After the Tang Dynasty, in the fifth generation, drinking tea and eating tea was already the standard for aristocratic banquets. There is a national treasure in the Palace Museum, "Han Xizai's Night Banquet", which depicts a complete process of the Southern Tang Dynasty official Han Xizai's night banquet, that is, five scenes of pipa playing, dancing, resting between banquets, blowing, and sending off guests. Let's look at the scene of the "break between feasts".
It can be seen in the painting that at this time, after the big wine feast, when the tea break is rested, there is tea on the table, and there are no less than fourteen tea dishes. I am short-sighted, if you have good eyesight can recognize what tea?
During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, our Huzhou was located in the Wuyue Kingdom, and the Jiangnan people really had to thank the Qian family of the Wu Yue Kingdom. Because at that time, from 907 to 979 AD, 72 years, the world was in chaos, conquest and killing, but only the seventy-two years of the Wuyue Kingdom where we were located were basically peaceful. In the end, the Song Dynasty was established, and the Qian clan returned to the land, so in the past seventy-two years, our Huzhou has rarely faced war, and the city culture has developed very rapidly. Tea, tea, Zen tea, etc. were unprecedentedly prosperous, and after the founding of the Song Dynasty, the entire Wuyue state model was basically moved, that is, the Jiangnan way of life was promoted to the whole country, and even affected the Liao state in the north and the later Jin state.
Tea has become a necessity for ordinary people, there are two proofs. First, on the side of the Jin Dynasty, Yuwen Maozhao's "Marriage of the Great Golden Kingdom" contains: "Sons-in-law Na Coin, all visit the door in advance, relatives accompany them, and eat wine ... The second time into the honey cake, each person has a plate, known as tea food. That is to say, in the far north of the Golden Kingdom, ordinary people have begun to eat tea when they get married and take care of their sons-in-law.
The second evidence is the famous "Qingming Upper River Map", two years ago, there was a book very popular, called "Qingming Upper River Map Code", the author is Ye Wenbiao, spent five years to conceive, three years of writing the Qingming Upper River Map 824 characters have all studied thoroughly, there are names and surnames, interested you can look at this set of books, very interesting. Among them, there are two tea shops in the Qingming River Map, one is the "Wen Family Tea Shop" on the right bank of the river, and the maid who serves dishes in the shop is called Lei Zhuniang. One is a "single tea shop" opened by Shan Sixteen, and Song Qiyu in the painting is borrowing money from it.
The Song Dynasty was a popular social structure. After lifting the "curfew" before the Tang Dynasty, the rise of tiles and hook bars allowed the people to see the whole social logic chain of watching dramas, drinking tea, and eating tea. The rapid rise of tea in the folk has given ordinary people the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of food.
Zhao Mengfu is our unborn talent in Huzhou, And Pipe Sheng is an outstanding talented woman in Huzhou, and the two people's "Ernon Words" have become a good story throughout the ages: "You nong and I nong, there are many emotions, many feelings, hot as fire." Put a piece of mud, twist one for you, shape one for me. Break the two of us together and mix them with water. Twist another you, shape another me. I have you in my mud, and you have me in my mud. Born with you the same tree, die the same tree. ”
How did Mr. and Mrs. Zhao Run Their Own Family? It is inseparable from Huzhou tea food. Let's take a look at this national treasure ↓
Have you found this word, the place where the payment is dropped is very strange ↓
It seems to be the two words "Daosheng", but there are obvious traces of alteration, so the calligraphy circle believes that this is a letter written by Zhao Mengfu to his aunt in the tone of his wife, and when the money was dropped, he unconsciously wrote down his own word "Zi Ang", and suddenly remembered that this was written on behalf of his wife, so he changed it to Daosheng. There is also a saying that is just the opposite, saying that the pipe sheng imitates the subtle slight warping of her husband's words, this day the husband wrote a letter to his aunt, and wrote "Zi Ang" when the money was dropped, Zhao Mengfu felt that it was still good to use the name of his wife, so he changed it to "Dao Sheng", it was such a change, this word has a story, it has become a national treasure, and it is also the best love relic left by Zhao Mengfu and his wife - you have me, I have you, Ernong I nong.
In this text we can look at the following paragraph, which says "frosting cake", you look for ↓
This is the Huzhou tea food written into the national treasure, so that we can also glimpse and imagine the scene of Zhao Mengfu and Pipe Sheng in the lotus village to make tea and taste tea.
Among the many pastries in Huzhou now, many of them are native to Huzhou, such as Dingsheng cake, which is eaten with good color head, and there are currently two sources, one is that Han Shizhong resists gold, and the other is when Yue Fei resists gold. In order to make the troops win the battle, the people in the Nanxun area of Huzhou used japonica rice and glutinous rice to make it into the shape of a yuanbao, and named it Dingsheng Cake, which means "the flag is opened to win". Now huzhou children before the exam many parents will buy a little dingsheng cake, a good lottery head, Huzhou city Taxia Street now has a number of shops specializing in selling dingsheng cake, every afternoon business is not too good.
There is also the New City Tea Cake, which is simply named after the tea. Shinichi tea cakes are made from the finest tonal glutinous rice, which is stone-ground into flour, and can also be added with lean meat, pure soy sauce, and gangnam local due to fresh winter shoots (or spring shoots). In the eleventh year of zhengde of the Ming Dynasty (1517 AD), the "Xiantan Zhi" and the Qing Kangxi Year's compilation "Xiantan Literature" both listed tea cakes as products of the new city, which shows that tea cakes have a history of at least 400 years, and may be earlier, and local legends have existed in the Song Dynasty.
Sister-in-law cake
Another example is sister-in-law cake, which is produced in Shuanglin. During the light years of the Qing Dynasty, there was a family surnamed Ma in Minjia Lane, Shuanglin Town, when the sister-in-law made cakes, the sister-in-law made trouble, originally it was to make sesame sweet cakes, when doing, the sister-in-law took advantage of the sister-in-law's inattention to add salt, and the result was that the pastries made, sweet and salty, tasted particularly good, got a big sale, and have been called "sister-in-law cakes" ever since.
Did you find that? In the song, yuan, ming and qing dynasties, many teas came from water towns such as Nanxun Town, Shuanglin Town, and Xinshi Town, especially in the Ming and Qing dynasties, which was the era of the great rise of "Jiangnan Town". Fish, rice, silk, silk so that jiangnan towns have become "giant towns, wangzhen", the town is famous, tea food in various places also began to compete, who is the best tea food? A "tea food business war" is about to start.
Let's take a look at the business war of that year from the perspective of Zhen Yuantong. Zhenyuan Tong was founded in 1840, that is to say, it is exactly 180 years to this year. At that time, Shen Zhenyuan, a Huzhou native, founded the first "Zhenyuan Tea Food Workshop" in Linghu Lake, which is now the intersection of Linghu Park South Road and Renmin Road, which was once the confluence of two rivers, originally full of merchants and merchants, shops were lined up, and dared to open a shop in the center of this water market, which shows Shen Zhenyuan's confidence in his craft. Soon after the store opened, because of its collection of Jiangnan tea food, the taste is pure, and it shook the food industry of Linghu Town for a time. So that during the Tongzhi period, tea food was written into the "Huzhou Fuzhi" volume 33 "Property", which recorded: "Tea food, or powder or noodles and sugar made." Cakes and cakes vary in name, and are used to accompany tea, so they are collectively named tea food, also known as refreshments, called 'Jiahu fine dots'"
Jiahu fine point, the key is in a fine word, fine materials, meticulous handwork, fine taste, and the most important thing is to be more careful in the selection and cultivation of the inheritors.
In 1870, when Fang was a child, he worshiped Shen Zhenyuan as a teacher and immersed himself in learning various old-fashioned tea eating techniques, which was deeply appreciated by the shopkeeper Shen Zhenyuan. After Shen Zhenyuan went to Shanghai to run the Qianzhuang business, Fang Xiaoshi inherited the tea shop and moved the shop to Huzhou. The name "Zhen Yuantong" means that the master's craftsmanship and virtue will be passed on. This time, Fang Xiaoshi inherited Shen Zhenyuan's vision in the choice of store site, and opened it in the most core area of Huzhou City's commerce - Camel Bridge.
At this time, the two banks of the Camel Bridge were already large cities formed over thousands of years (Huzhou City was already a big city with 100,000 households in the middle of the Tang Dynasty), and the gathering of merchants represented the fierce commercial war. In the catering industry alone, there are long-established brands like Wild Water Chestnut, which were founded during the Qianlong period and were already centuries-old stores in that year. At that time, the giants of Suzhou's catering industry, Daoxiang Village and Caizhizhai had also entered the snack rivers and lakes of Huzhou.
Here to admire the vision of Fang's childhood, Huzhou Camel Bridge next to the Temple area, since ancient times is the theater garden, book field gathering place, Huzhou people whether listening to books or watching plays, to brew a cup of "smoked bean tea", more exquisite to drink "three teas", just drink tea or not enough fun, if there is tea with tea is more flavorful. Fang Was a child who saw this and opened the shop by the Camel Bridge.
Zhenyuan tong rose crisp candy crisp, brown candy strength, salt and pepper peach slices crisp, peach cake soft glutinous, "crisp, strong, crisp, glutinous" in the mouth of the audience implied in the opera life "up, bearing, turning, combined". It is this tea food four treasures that make Huzhou people empathize with folk art through hearing, vision, taste, and chewing. It is said that the beauty of the great beauty is in love, the elegance is in the intention, and the four treasures of tea have become the "daya snacks" in the hearts of Huzhou people. So until we were young, it was also a very decent thing to carry the tea food four treasures wrapped in the "straw paper bag" to go to relatives and friends.
Thirty years later, one day in 1889, a teacher Fu was invited into Zhenyuantong's newly opened storefront in Wucheng County, Huzhou, TangziWan, which is also the place where Huzhou City Opera Gardens, Bookstores, and Tea Houses gathered, and Zhen Yuantong's business had already spread all over Huzhou City at this time, and it was time to expand production. So is it simply to expand the scale, or to increase the product range? Fang Decided to invite a better tea chef to increase the variety of products first, and in order to retain this master, Zhen Yuantong proposed a "joint stock", which was nine years earlier than the introduction of a modern enterprise system in China by the Restoration Reform Law. Since then, the famous tea chefs in jiangnan have joined the command of Zhen Yuantong, and Zhen Yuantong has become the premier tea brand in the whole of Jiangnan.
Today's Zhenyuan Tong and wild water chestnuts, still continuously producing tea for Huzhou people, the so-called best tea food, does not exist, thousands of people thousands of faces and thousands of tastes, so what does tea mean to us? It is a "refined from ancient times" attitude to life. The essence of tea culture is "Baitan life", and the external performance is "three teas".
Video source: Misato Hometown
First of all, Huzhou's tea and tea food are related to the rivers and lakes. For example, in the area of Caodu (now Zhuangyuan Block and the west of Xiaoxi Street) in Huzhou, there are many gangs, and whenever there is a dispute, we Huzhou people will not easily fight and kill, everyone sits down to "eat and talk about tea", and the old woman and uncle mediate from it.
In addition, people who talk about business will generally drink three teas, but the degree of drinking is different, for example, there were four teahouses in the two corners of YifengQiao in Huzhou, different people went to different tea houses to drink tea, cattle and sheep sellers talked about business in the "Guanfeng Tea House", it was not easy for farmers to enter the city once, it was not easy to shake the boat back and forth, and they had to buy cattle to buy horses and buy seeds, time was tight, and often wanted to eat rice by drinking tea, so there was wok tea, the pot was brewed in tea, and the tea was all there. "Hong fishing turns into a cloud, paper thin ice and duck feathers are light, it seems to be the most precious of ordinary, only for pregnant women and relatives and friends." The word 枵
And the big river north and south to Huzhou to do business of distant customers like to go to the "Sunrise Tea House", come from afar, so generally on the first two of the three teas, wok wind tea and smoked bean tea, first fill the stomach, and then taste the taste, slowly talk about business. When it comes to the "One Lotte" tea house, it is much more comfortable. Because this tea house is a place for compradors, bosses, and managers to eat tea and talk about business, it is generally "talking", and some are time. There are also storytelling books in the teahouse, so you can listen to them slowly and drink them slowly. South of the bridge to the west is the "Chaoyang Building", are literati inkers, only drink tea, Huzhou local called "Tuo Tea", high wind and bright festival, wind and moon articles, look down on life, do not seek to hear. Later, it spread to Japan called 侘寂, which is the soul of the Japanese tea ceremony, and the roots of the Japanese tea ceremony are in Huzhou.
Tang Wei/Photo
After the profit of fish and rice silk, the rich Huzhou people entered the life of "Baitan", such as "unkempt noodles for a month, oily flour noodles for a whole year". Silk reeling family, silk reeling silkworm farming is very bitter, but after the spring silkworm raw silk is sold, there is money, so how to live the next year? Huzhou people like to listen to plays, the local Huzhou beach spring, piano books, three jumps of the first board, foreign Yue opera, Huangmei opera, commentary, whenever in the "Tangzi Bay" to listen to books and watch plays, order three teas, slowly drink and eat slowly. After eating and drinking, go to the warm hall in the afternoon to take a bath. It is the so-called "morning skin soaking water, afternoon soaking skin". Therefore, Huzhou's tea and tea food and opera also have a companion relationship.
You see, Huzhou people drink tea differently from other places, we put tea, calmly drink, drink into three teas. Our tea food in Huzhou, laid out to eat, there are more than 120 kinds. "Spending life on beautiful things" Huzhou people have done it to the extreme. So when I later heard an old song by Cai Qin, all my memories and feelings about Huzhou tea suddenly rushed to my heart, and I had today's story. That song is called "When I Miss You."
Which confused cook it is
Knead the sweet and sour together
Teach me not to spit out and not to swallow
Which careless bartender is it
Reconcile helplessness and worry
Teach me not to wake up drunk
Could it be this taste
It's time to miss you
When homesick, take a sip of tea, the taste of Huzhou.
Source: Huzhou Release
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