What is button disease?
The dictionary definition of a disease is: a part of an organism, an organ or a system that arises for various reasons as a pathological condition. Examples include infections, genetic defects or environmental stress, and diseases that have recognizable signs or symptoms.
Some websites also define button predators as button diseases. Here we define disease as a general button condition, not being eaten by other creatures. For example, the button-eating sea slugs are defined here as button predators.
Button disease here refers more to those terrible button fungus, such as button white spot disease, called button ceiling in foreign countries.
The picture below is a picture of the death of the button caused by the button fungus, and alas, the bones are exposed.
Many button players think that it is a button disease that is feared, often called button white spots, button ceiling, button acne, etc., and we still know only a small part of it.
It begins with small yellowish or white spots on the outer stem of the button, and eventually the button cannot be closed and the entire button is covered with white spots. Finally, the infected button begins to fade and eventually dies.
Entire button fields can be consumed by this infection, which can quickly spread over small individuals or swallow large buttons over months.
Some players believe that some varieties of buttons are immune (i.e. without any method, the button white spots naturally subside. Because of the high concentration of toxins it carries, but this theory is still a hypothesis and has not really been confirmed.
Below is a button field infected with white spots
Although the exact cause is not known, there is speculation about what triggered white spot disease. Most of the information is collected from our button lovers.
The picture below shows that buttons infected with white spots are gradually fading.
There is speculation that this survival pattern is naturally triggered by the entry and exit of animals. Last year, at the Reef Central forum, a staggering number of button players reported that it was effective in combating button white spot disease between October and December 2005 when the season and temperature changed.
Carbon & Aggressive Skimming activated carbon and egg powder filtration units play a key role in the fading of buttons. Because they are very effective when they peel off the yellowing compound in the water. When the water suddenly becomes clear, it actually means increasing the penetration of light. The infiltration of light will cause the overbreeding of zooxanthellae, causing the main body of the button to expel zooxanthellae, which is what we often call albinism.
We have always known that the use of activated charcoal to make the water quality of the aquarium suddenly clear will make some LPS or SPS bleaching. Either the use of excessively strong eggs or the excessive frequent replacement of activated carbon can also cause bleaching.
Activated charcoal tends to take trace elements away from the water until the activated charcoal is saturated and cannot be absorbed, and the eggs need to be washed frequently.
Most anemone buttons expel their zooxanthellae (albinism), and buttons of the genus Dove do not appear to be as effective as those of anemones.
In LPS and SPS, too, corals are bleached. This may be because the button genus cannot expel their own zooxanthellae as quickly as anemones, LPS, and SPS, so they may suffer from the accumulation of oxygen in their own tissues due to the accumulation of oxygen by toxins, which eventually leads to regression and death.
Try to cure that works
When Aqua players discover that they are infected with button white spot disease, many different methods have been tried to cure the disease.
1. Clean water for cleaning.
2. Immerse in a solution of high or low concentration
Tetracycline maceration
Dry with exposure to air for a long time (5 hours)
5. Physical method removal
6. Amputation of the infected limb
7. All of the above
Most of the means are of no use for the spread of white spots, some reagents have no effect on white spots, and some are killed with buttons.
Some methods are done by adding a small amount of success to the fish tank with antioxidants (vitamin C) (mildly adding a small amount to prevent algae outbreaks), or soaking the buttons in a separate container with water from the aquarium and adding a vitamin powder such as vitamin C (although time-consuming, this is the perfect method)
This method is not guaranteed to be effective and can sometimes lead to large outbreaks of algae, so use with caution.
Another proven (through repeated testing) to eliminate button white spot disease is to remove the buttons from the aquarium together and place them in another aquarium filled with fresh seawater (the water in the new aquarium must not have any old water from the original aquarium with white spots.
Water change is the key to solving this problem (pictured below)
The picture below is what I looked like when I first received my button
Below is a photo of an infected button when it is out of water
Another photo of a button infected in the light
Another photo of the water
The picture below shows the button undergoing its first treatment
The buttons go through the next day after treatment
On the third day after the buttons have been treated, you can see that some white spots have disappeared.
Another photo of the button on the third day after the treatment
After a week's rest, this is a newly taken photo of the button out of the water, comparing it with the first photo of the water before the treatment, you can clearly see that the white spot of the button has disappeared.
A photo of the button on the other side a week after the treatment
Another photo illuminated by the lights of the fish tank
I have been using Furan-2 capsules for quite some time to date. I hope I can prove that Furan-2 does work for button white spots from a medical or scientific point of view. But from my personal experience and proof alone, Furan-2 can be "clinically proven" to be effective in curing button white spots.
Another log:
Use Furan-2 capsules, each serving of water, keep the button living stones in the bag to increase the dose and reduce the amount of water, which must submerge the entire living stone. Soak each dose for about 20 minutes.
1. Use a self-sealing bag with a capacity of 1 gallon or a bag from a fish shop and add the required amount of water.
2. Carefully open the capsule and leave the powder in the bag.
3. Seal the mouth of the bag, drag the bag and shake it.
With this method, the mixing speed of Furan-2 powder will be increased by a factor of 10, and the steps are simple.
Hopefully, when you need to use Furan-2 capsules, this will help you and make it easier to operate!
Note: This article is reproduced and compiled by Longfeng Seawater Fish Forum Master 007
Translation: babydou128
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