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Leng Lin: Those years, those fish...

author:Old things in Xi'an

To talk about such a topic, first meditate on the "Mantra of Past Lives" twenty times, "Amitabha, Amen ~~." ”

When I was a child, I didn't eat much fish and couldn't gargle my spines.

If you have to eat, there are two main kinds, one is the striped fish, the other is the horse noodle fish, at that time we called the grilled fish, are the frozen sea fish with more thorns. Once when my grandfather came from the countryside, my mother made dried fried fish, and he said, "This piece of meat is beautiful and fierce", and as he was talking, a large piece was sent in, and he pricked his mouth.

More eating fish, or after engaging in objects. In the wife's family, the mother is from Shandong, the father is from Anhui, one is near the sea, one is south, and they all have the genes to eat fish. After working, he earned money on his own, and occasionally beat his teeth to the restaurant.

Leng Lin: Those years, those fish...

More deeply impressed, Heping Gate is close to the city wall, and there is a "Beijing boiled fish" in the west of Yanta Road, which is unforgettable. The environment is good, the price is not cheap, so you can't eat at any time, you have to wait for the bonus, take your mother and wife to eat. The fish came up in four layers, and the floating on it was full of fiery red peppers, full of them. The waiter will then help you beat the peppers clean in front of you, and you can choose to grind and bottle them to take away. When the pepper is clean, the oil is very clear, not red at all. Simply put, if the boiled fish is red oil, it is basically gutter oil. The fish is very good at pointing grass sticks, the key fish slices are fine, on top of which are large pieces of fish meat, the meat is cooked, smooth and tender bending, looking fat and lazy. The fish steak is in the middle, and the bottom is flattened with sliced cucumbers and some soybean sprouts. This practice is very pure, do not side dishes, to eat tofu, konjac, powder belt, go out and turn right zhujuntang dam fish. So we'll order two more vegetarian dishes. A pepper-skinned egg for a little beer, a plate of garlic-minced greens, perfect. Boiled fish is not spicy, children can also eat, but use hot oil to stimulate the first stage of the chili flavor, the bottom of the cucumber, bean sprouts can be very fresh. At some point, the store disappeared. Later, the less satisfactory thing was the boiled fish in the Chengdu image on the side of the Shaanxi Newspaper, but it was already second-class.

Leng Lin: Those years, those fish...

Today, many restaurants love to sell strange fish. There are too many types of marine fish, I don't understand, I can't say clearly, freshwater fish I think are mostly blind. It is to mark an inflated price, there is no clear price comparison in the market, and the local soil names are used, which is actually a branch of a certain category. Tibetan long fish, Qingbo fish, yellow catfish, barracuda, stingray fish, and many varieties that are known as airborne in the place of origin, Shahu bighead fish, Yinghu duckbill fish, in fact, eat the same. Our four major freshwater fish, bighead carp, silver carp, grass and green, are very complete. High-end fish are mandarin fish and perch. "People come and go on the river, but love the beauty of sea bass." "Egrets fly in front of Mount Cissé, peach blossoms flowing water mandarin fish fat." How deeply the ancients had a deep affection for the land and nature, I don't believe there is a delicacy that they did not find. Of course, with a large number of artificial breeding, feed is added, and the delicious food that these ancient population centers have in mind "flew into the homes of ordinary people", but when they eat, the taste gradually becomes like that.

After eating boiled fish, the silver carp head of Gao Laozhuang was more favored later. In fact, it is the chopped pepper fish head often eaten in Hunan restaurants today, and Awa Cottage also has this dish, but it is a little rough. Some are called double pepper fish heads, half with green chopped peppers, and red peppers on the other. Once I specifically wanted to taste the difference in the taste of the two peppers, but there was no. Ordinary small shop, order chopped pepper fish head, probably the biggest problem is salty. If you put too much pepper sauce or the fish is marinated for too long, the delicacy is fleeting. The fish head of Gao Laozhuang is very fresh, and the minced pepper sauce is eaten to the end, not salty, but has a sweet taste. The most beautiful part is the fish face, located in the head of the fish, on the gills, in the form of translucent jelly, a large piece, very complete, dipped in a little sauce, a bite down, you can close your eyes, fly for a while.

Leng Lin: Those years, those fish...

Speaking of Jiangtuan, I had a delicious meal on a stilt building on the edge of the Liuyang River. Cut into small tiles, a large basin, fleshy tendons, very flavorful, with a ginger aroma, very special. That was the experience of going to Luoyang Tianjin High School to exchange and support teaching seven or eight years ago. Of course, there are many other delicious fish, river fresh, river fresh, seafood, and so on. There are also many delicious fish in Japanese and Korean food. The honey charcoal grilled silver cod in Qingdu, the grilled saury and multi-spring fish in Hanyang Pavilion, and the thickly cut salmon belly in The Wind Hall are so fat. Cheap and also many delicious fish, sauerkraut fish pot in Zhuyuan, spotted fish king from Liuzhou, yellow fish roasted tofu with old Chen family balls and braised vegetables, and rainbow trout eaten in Taipingyu. Once popular to eat deep-sea dish fish head, after eating also knock bone sucking marrow, the aftertaste is timeless. Inside the fish, I prefer to eat that kind of garlic clove fish, which naturally has a texture crack when clipped, the meat is hard, and the more it is cooked, the more it is ribbed, like the tiger spot eaten in sanya's first seafood market. Last year in Shanghai, I ate that kind of pickled and dried fish, salty and umami, slightly sweet aftertaste, and rice wine was also very fragrant. From beginning to end, I couldn't eat the Vinegar Fish of the West Lake, despite its fame. One year, I ordered one in the outer building, which was very sticky and soft, like mud, and the only thing close to this taste was salmon rice in Western food.

Leng Lin: Those years, those fish...

Once I met a southern friend during a banquet, who was still a fishing master, and when I ordered fish, I said that carp was better than grass carp, better than sea bass! I was stunned, "Carp has a lot of spines, some are not chewy, what do you eat?" He thought for a moment, "Just eat that umami." "I was suddenly defeated, and I felt ten thousand pains about my poverty and shallowness.

To tell the truth, after the eight regulations, the richness and high-end of the catering are no longer what they used to be, which is definitely a good thing for the people. The large table of 30 people in the high-tech Xiang'e love luxury bag should not be needed; in the elevator of the Liangbao Building, the Royal Banquet Palace also played the sign of 788 and 988 to book tables. Takeaway has made dishes set and fast food, and this trend has become a foregone conclusion. Once, I forgot what festival to celebrate, and I went to Guoli Renhe Sichuan cuisine with my family. This used to be a big name for the team, and after taking the menu, the waiter "drew a circle" on the menu with his hand and said, "Just this area, a dozen dishes." "Once upon a time, we imagined the prosperity of the prosperous world ten thousand times, but we did not expect that the real prosperity was that people had no feelings about what to eat, "eating can also be, not eating can also be, think there is nothing unusual." ”

Well, I had to get stuck on paper.

This article is published with the permission of Mr. Leng Lin