Nandu News reporter Wang Yayun Every weekend, the center of Garden City in Nanshan District, Shenzhen is a good place for nearby residents to go out, and those children who are held by their parents to visit the mall will always be unconsciously attracted by a 16-meter-high climbing wall at the entrance of the mall, stopping and looking up. There are bold children pointing to the rock wall and jumping, but more children are showing a look of fear, looking at the high wall and issuing a "wow, so high" sigh.
20-year-old Song Yiling will still remember when she was 7 years old, when her father led her to the first climbing standard competition wall built in Shenzhen, and her heart was excited and nervous. And last year, the girl who was about to become the first girl in Chinese history to participate in the Olympic climbing all-around competition returned to this wall, and wrote her name where her dream began, and the three words "Song Yiling" are now painted on the rock wall of the Shenzhen Bosheng Climbing Club, inspiring all the children who come and go to climb to the top.
Shenzhen girl Song Yiling will represent the Chinese team in the Olympic sports climbing project. (Courtesy of the interviewee)
The first time she climbed to the highest peak
"When Song Yiling was a child, to be honest, it was a little skin, a little skin than the average little girl." Coach Hong Lian of bosheng climbing club told reporters that he was one of the first batch of people in Shenzhen to establish a professional climbing club, and Song Yiling was the first batch of students he brought, "It should be in 2008, her family lived near our club at that time, her father took her shopping, occasionally saw our climbing wall, decided to let her try, did not expect to try she liked, and finally insisted on it." ”
Song Yiling was only 7 years old when she first came into contact with rock climbing. (Courtesy of the interviewee)
In Shenzhen in 2008, rock climbing is still a very little known sports, not to mention engaged in professional sports, Coach Hong enrollment does not pay attention to what selection of talents, basically as long as someone is interested, he will welcome people to try, free open rock wall for children to climb up to feel the fun of this sport.
However, the reporter also encountered several people who tried for the first time in the interview, both adults and children, most of them climbed to the half of the arm trembling, difficult to insist, even if the body is tied with a safety rope, there are professional coaches below in the voice control guidance, and there are very few people who can insist on climbing to the highest point. "This wall looks like it's more than ten meters, but climbing up quickly doesn't dare to look down, it's still quite scary." Ms. Zhang, who came to try it out for the first time, told reporters that there were several younger children who were directly in the middle of the air, crying and having to send a coach to pick them up. However, a little girl who looked to be only 5 or 6 years old was sobbing and insisted on climbing to the top, and Coach Hong looked at her and remembered Song Yiling's first visit.
"Song Yiling didn't cry when she first came to learn rock climbing, but she was also afraid and asked me to protect her." This is all normal, hanging in that kind of air to look down will be a little afraid of height. "Coach Hong said that it was also under his protection that Song Yiling climbed to the top for the first time, and the success of the challenge immediately gave the little girl a lot of confidence, and although she has had such and such hobbies since then, rock climbing has always been her favorite amateur interest." Later, she was not afraid, but the people watching below were a little afraid. Coach Hong said. He also remembered that once when Song Yiling was practicing the difficulty, an unstable hand fell down, and she was fine with the safety rope, but a big mother who passed by directly fainted when she bumped into this scene, and called an ambulance to give first aid.
At a young age, Song Yiling was already able to overcome his fears and climb to the highest peak. (Courtesy of the interviewee)
"But when she first started junior high school, she also stopped practicing for two years because her schoolwork was too busy." Coach Hong said. In fact, he also knows that there are so many students coming and going in the club, often this to go to mathematics, that to go to English, the course conflict most parents are choosing to give up rock climbing, which seems to be of little help to the interest of further education and employment, "When I meet a good seedling and say that I don't learn, we will regret it, but we can also understand." So Song Yiling said that she would stop practicing, and the club's coaches could only respect her and her family's choice, but every time there was a game, they would still notify her family and suggest that Song Yiling try again. In the long run, Song Yiling was said to be touched by the results of two years, she returned to the club, and the more she practiced, the more professional, more professional than many people expected, and on the international stage.
The mountain is the peak of the mountain
At the 2019 Speed Climbing World Cup Chongqing Jiulongpo Station, Song Yiling, who just won her first World Cup championship in Moscow, once again achieved a historic breakthrough in this race, she finished with a time of 7.101 seconds, thus breaking the women's world record for speed climbing, and the title of "the fastest woman in the world" has also been crowned on Song Yiling's head. It was with the outstanding advantage in the speed climbing project that Song Yiling was finally selected by the national team and qualified for the Tokyo Olympics.
There are generally three types of international rock climbing competitions: speed, difficulty and bouldering. The so-called speed climbing, athletes will compete in accordance with the prescribed route on the 15-meter-high climbing wall, and determine the fastest runner; difficulty climbing is that athletes will climb on the climbing wall above 15 meters, the higher the better, the time limit is six minutes, if the athletes' climbing height is the same, the fastest will win; and bouldering climbing is to require athletes to complete as much of the fixed route climbing as possible on the 4-meter-high climbing wall within 4 minutes without wearing a safety rope, and the climbing route is also known as "climbing obstacles." "These climbing obstacles will be more challenging, and the player who crosses the most climbing obstacles with the fewest number of climbs will win." Since the Tokyo Olympics was the first time in history that rock climbing was officially held, there was only one major event, and the participants competed with the all-around, that is, speed, difficulty and bouldering, and the one with the highest overall score won.
To be able to play for the Olympics for the country, the coaches in Shenzhen are also very happy for Song Yiling. (Courtesy of the interviewee)
"In fact, she did not practice speed climbing before, but mainly practiced difficulty," Coach Yang Aihu, who brought Song Yiling for many years in the Bosheng Club, told reporters, "Later went to the national team, transferred to speed for several months, and the result will soon be able to have results, it should be said that it is quite talented." "It is worth mentioning that in order to improve the speed, Song Yiling once spent half a year to change his starting action, and the difficulty of this starting action is that no female player has used it before, so when it was successfully displayed in front of the world for the first time, it can be said that it caused a lot of sensation." Because no one had started like that before, and no one had ever thought that a female player could reach 7.1 seconds, but Song Yiling did it after using that action, so almost all the climbing masters around the world were imitating her starting action. Coach Hong said.
In fact, in order to prepare for this Olympics, Song Yiling has been preparing "secret weapons" for most of the year, and he has lost 14 pounds during winter training, hoping to create surprises when he goes to Tokyo. However, according to the predictions of some professional media, including Song Yiling and other masters, there are too many uncertainties, and it is difficult to say who must be the hottest one. "Song Yiling is a relatively strong comprehensive ability among domestic players, she is difficult to practice, and her speed is very prominent, and she is indeed a more comprehensive player." However, if you want to go to the Olympic arena to compete for medals, it really depends on the scene," Coach Yang said, "After all, like the difficulty and bouldering, everyone knows the line on the spot, there are too many uncertainties, and even if it is a very experienced veteran, it is possible that the soles of a foot slip, a finger is not buckled, and it is backward." Everyone has a chance, and she tries her best. ”
New projects inspire enthusiasm for the next generation
However, regardless of the outcome of the competition, the fact that a young girl from an amateur background can take the Olympic stage in the climbing project known as the "brave game" has greatly inspired the newcomers in The country. The reporter also saw Song Yiling's teachers and sisters training hard after taking her as an example during the interview process of the BoSheng Club. "If I don't finish my training goal today, you'll punish me for 100 sit-ups." A girl in her 10s took the initiative to come and issue a "military order" with Coach Hong, and a 7-year-old boy quietly told reporters that he had won the U8 national championship once, "Not enough," the little boy said, "I want to participate in the Olympic Games!" ”
Many of the children at the Bo Sheng Club are following Song Yiling's example. (Courtesy of the interviewee)
In fact, not only this Tokyo Olympics, rock climbing has also entered the official competition list of the next Paris Olympic Games, and three years later, the Paris project will be subdivided into more medals, if Song Yiling's Olympic journey is a pioneering journey, then the road of this sport will be wider in the future, and more and more people will walk on this road.
"We are the first club in Shenzhen to engage in professional climbing training, and there may be more than a dozen such clubs in Shenzhen today." Coach Hong said, "There should be 4,5,000 people learning to climb, and I think there will be more people willing to engage in this sport in the future." ”
However, with the increase in the number of participants, the current number of domestic climbing competitions may not be enough. In the case of Bo Sheng's children, there are many competitions that can have four or five games a year, but the frequency of foreign children of the same age will be higher. For example, there are more than 5,000 professional climbing clubs in Japan, and almost every week there are different levels of competitions open to fans around the country. Therefore, in the future, rock climbing sports should be developed, in addition to the increase in sports crowds, professional coaches, club hardware, etc., professional organizers also need to follow up, so that the sport more and more into the public eye.
The climbing wall of the BoSheng Club was signed by Song Yiling, inspiring the children to climb up from here.
Two days after the reporter's interview, two Chinese climbers, Song Yiling and Pan Yufei, also officially embarked on a journey to Tokyo with the Chinese climbing team, and their competition will be held from August 3 to 6. Coach Hong said that they also plan to organize members in the club to watch the game together and cheer for Song Yiling. "Whether she gets a place or not is not the most important thing," the coach said, "I think she can go to the Olympics and climb the rock wall there, which is already the pride of all of us." ”