Text: Snake Sculpture Photo: Fei Xue
It has been a long time since Yala turned the mountain and returned, and I feel that my heart is still in the mountain, am I not used to the fireworks in the world?
- Snake eagle
March under the snow-capped mountains of Yala
One
This year it is still crossing, trekking through no man's land. Originally, I wanted to go to Xinjiang to cross the Wusun Ancient Road, but I had to go to western Sichuan again due to the new crown epidemic. Most of the outdoor hiking routes in Western Sichuan have already been crossed, leaving only the Yala Line. Because she is the simplest of the three trekking routes in Kawanishi.
Yala Snow Mountain, known in Tibetan as "Xia Xue Yala Gabo" (meaning The White Yak Mountain of the East), is one of the four sacred mountains in Tibetan areas of China. The mountainous area spans the three counties of Daofu, Kangding and Danba, and its northwest is connected to the Tagong Grassland, forming a magnificent landscape of snow-capped mountains and grasslands. The main peak of Yala Snow Mountain is 5820 meters above sea level, which is the second highest peak of the Daxueshan Mountain Range in Sichuan, covered with snow all year round, and in the middle of summer, looking at Yala Snow Peak on the flower-like Tagong Grassland, it is like a sense of immortality. The ancient Tibetan book "The Path to Liberation of The Sacred Mountain" records the mountain as the "second Shambhala".
Depart from Yichang East Railway Station. From left: Fox, Rainbow After Rain, Flying Snow, Silk, Happy Walk, Hanjiang Snow
On October 9, after a long period of preparation, the Yarrata Crossing Tour officially began. At 6:30 in the morning, before dawn, a group of ten people left the Hotel in Kangding and chartered a car for 40 minutes to reach the starting point of the hike with the stone mark of "Yala Sacred Mountain" on the side of the road in Zhonggu Village, Kangding County.
The process of hiking on the plateau is not always accompanied by beautiful scenery, and even many times there is an indescribable boredom, only the new little girl Wang Jiao is very excited, and it seems that the gaze is fresh. She was the youngest in the team, tall, with big legs. So, the teammates replaced her real name and screen name with "big long legs".
"Big Long Legs" Wang Jiao, yoga instructor, hiked the plateau for the first time
As you walked, the big legs suddenly asked, why are you so fascinated by hiking in this plateau? The teammates laughed, and they didn't seriously answer the answer to this question for a while, although the big long legs had their own answers later, but during the march of the day, I was asking myself from time to time why.
Speaking from the heart, now I am very unhappy about visiting scenic spots, China's scenic spots are also too much, originally it was a very primitive natural territory, maybe when it was painted as a prison, framed into scenic spots to charge, but also to some people's personal aesthetic awareness to arbitrarily add some waste materials in that area, hard to guide people to look at this side to that side, eyes on my head, you care where I look! Instead of visiting such scenic spots, I would rather hang out in the mountains by myself, I am not willing to passively accept the scenery of others in front of my eyes, I want to take the initiative to use my own vision to feel the world in front of me. That's probably one of the reasons I'm obsessed with hiking.
March under the snow-capped mountains of Yala, the first pass. From left: Fox, Hanjiang Snow, Inexplicable, Rainbow After Rain, Happy Walk, Snake Eagle, Flying Snow
"Big long legs" is a yoga instructor, there will always be times when she is tired during the walking process, but her way of resting is too peculiar, find a branch and pull it on one leg, and hang it up. The body threw itself on the leg, resting, it was too powerful. Shame on yourself, you stay away from me, stand next to you, lose your share!
Hiking in the highlands, my biggest wish is to see the snowy peaks, the closer the better. During the walk, the snow peak was sneakily exposed, although it looked like it was only the top part of the peak, with such a thin skirt like a small strip, for me, I could grasp her with my eyes. That touch of white, pure white, shining dazzling in the sun, gave Xuefeng a kind of arrogance that looked at the world. I seemed to see a woman of my choice, dressed in a snow-white dress, with a sense of unspeakable holiness, standing proudly. This is the snow peak I want to see, raw, pure white! Seeing can purify the soul, can shake the flesh, and can make people abandon the filth of the world. At a glance, it is happiness, it is the ultimate beauty. For this reason, my teammates and I would rather work tirelessly and experience the face of the snow peak every year.
Walk on picturesque trails
At an altitude of about 4,000 meters, the peaks are almost bare, there is little vegetation, and the long wind, frost, rain and snow have cracked the rocks on the peaks, resulting in the surrounding mountains being covered with gravel, and it seems that these mountains are piled up with gravel and have no backbone. Continue to move forward, look at the mountain from another angle, countless towering stone walls support each other, like a strong bone, outlining the main body of the mountain, a sense of strength spontaneously emerged. Each stone wall is positive, but it grows freely without any restraint, and the sharp thorns at the top are pointed to the sky, revealing a body full of stubbornness, and there is no power that can make him bow his head. Whenever I approach such a mountain, I want to shout, give me strength, big mountain! I can find the source of strength from the mountains, and then I can hike hard, why should I enjoy it?
Unconsciously walk through the new shop sub-camp, the time is still early, continue to move forward, and arrive at the reserve camp an hour later. Set up tents, clean equipment, bury pots to make rice, there is no entertainment in the mountains, start sleeping at seven o'clock in the evening, and then feel that the night is long!
No dreams, the night when the high anti quietly comes, it is even more looking forward to the dawn!
The scenery is at the mouth
Two
The night on the plateau, tumbling in the sleeping bag, only makes people have a headache, forced to sleep in their own way, and it is good to fall asleep for three or four hours. Looking forward to it, the sky began to light up, some of the teammates walked out of the tent, and I also wanted to see the early morning of the Yala Sacred Mountain, and quickly packed up and drilled out without leaving behind.
The morning sun had not yet shone through the camp, but the snow white on top of Yara had already shown elegance and mystery in the faint morning light, as if a bolt of lightning had frozen on the top of the mountain, trying to look closely, but it was too harsh to lock one's eyes on it. The thick white fog in the valley on the road formed a sea of clouds, quietly eroding the camp with the wind, and I was really worried about whether it would cover us in the near future, and whether the road ahead would be lost by the fog.
The snow-capped mountains of Yala loom
The temperature in the mountains was low, and the tent was frozen, but fortunately, everyone's body was not abnormal. After breakfast, start the camp as early as possible. Today, I have to turn over more than 4,000 yakou and cross the beautiful sister lake, which is a bit long.
The road over the pass is not difficult, the slowly rising road, the creek passing through various bushes, the kind of childhood postcard scenery accompanies us on the march, the sun shines warmly on the golden leaves of autumn, and the peaks around Yala also intentionally or unintentionally cover the snow peaks with their bodies, and from time to time only let the snow peaks show a little, tempting me.
Climbing up the yakuza, looking back at the distant Gongga snow peaks that cannot be named but gradually cleared in the sun, and the curved river valley below, an inexplicable sense of pride surges into the heart. There seems to be a feeling of being on top, in fact, the peaks on both sides are far beyond their own reach, and they can't help but laugh at themselves, superficial!
The back of the hiker
In front of the yakou is the sister lake, two alpine lakes not far apart, a pair of high-cold sisters. The sky of the plateau is clean and cloudless, and the suspicious blue color is completely printed on the surface of the lake, which has not been disturbed, and the quiet and transparent water of the lake exudes intoxicating colors.
If time permits, I would really like to sit silly by the lake, in a daze, meditate, and sit there. Staring at the lake and looking at the eyes is very empty, the eyes do not feel that there is no lake, peaks and sky, have you melted into it?
Sister yoga by the lake
What is ultimate beauty? I think it was probably that brief moment, there was nothing in the eyes, nothing in the heart, and the flesh evaporated in an instant. I was enjoying the beauty of the sister lake, when suddenly a blinding light woke me up, and looked at the light, and a long row of metal piles was erected on the lake in front of me, which was clearly deliberately done by someone, not good, here should be the rhythm of the boardwalk. It was later confirmed that scenic spots were being developed near the sister lake, and the road was built to be accessible to motorcycles. This is who came up with the bad idea, a good hiking route is about to be commercially developed upside down, if it becomes a scenic spot, where can the sister lake still find that tranquil and unique face, heart weeping!
On the way down the mountain, I sporadically encountered some tourists who entered the scenic spot to visit, and even motorcyclists drove upwards, scornful, do not repair the scenic spot you do not come, repair the scenic spot you why bitter and come again, high altitude, the sun is poisonous, the hard work of the road is to put themselves miserable, but also stirred the two sisters can not calm the nerves, how bitter to come. I sincerely pray that the local government will stop this project and return everything to nature.
Sister Lake
Descending to the bottom of the mountain, a crumbling cement road escorted us to the Yala Yutso camp behind Yala. The poor "big long legs" are already a bit overwhelmed, and a small gentle slope rise has to rest several times, all without the passion of the early stage, fortunately, the camp is not far away, and even the deception and praise have arrived.
Looking at Yala from the edge of Yarra Yucuo Lake, the complete snow peaks are displayed in front of you, the lake clearly engraves the reflection of the snow peaks, and the sunset shows the charm of almost "Sunshine Golden Mountain". Snow at the top of the mountain all year round, the melting of glaciers provides water for the lake below the mountain, the lake is lush with trees, the branches and leaves enter the golden hour of autumn, emitting a mature smell, not competing for the slightest limelight, quietly using the appearance of a support as the foundation for the yala sacred mountain. Prayer flags are everywhere, crackling with the wind to pray for the blessing of Yala and the people down the mountain. Xuefeng was like a huge Maitreya Buddha sitting there, all round, very affinity, really wanted to touch his stomach.
The mood was repaired by the scenic spot project, rest early, let sleep soothe me.
Sit back and take a bite to the smell of the plateau
Three
Yesterday dinner, there was a not so wonderful news, our camp in the subordinate Daofu County is under development of the scenic spot, Daofu County in order to prevent tourists from entering the scenic spot without buying tickets, in the vast primeval forest arranged countless mountain patrol personnel, to meet the ticketless mountain into the mountain to make up the ticket fine and so on.
In Yala Yutso
This is not easy to do, the supplementary ticket payment is easy to say, I am afraid that people will not let the past at all, we can not turn around and go in reverse, and we do not know Tibetan, all ideas can only be communicated with the locals through our guides Solang Tashi and Dolma. Solang Tashi and Dolma are husband and wife, and Dolma has been following her father as a guide since she was 16 years old, and this year has been 12 years. There are still some obstacles to communication between us and the guide, who knows what the outcome of the communication will be like and how it will be good? After some discussion, everyone decided to follow the advice of the guide, get up early and pull out the camp, and strive to take the mountain patrol personnel who have not yet arrived at the post, quickly cross it, and avoid unnecessary trouble.
The highest state of a hiker is to walk quietly
At four o'clock in the morning, everyone consciously began to pack up, and at five o'clock and two o'clock, they set off from the camp. Headlamps, mobile phones, and flashlights were all used, Solang Tashi led the way in front, Dolma finished at the end, and the whole team was on the road with a deep foot and a shallow foot. I have been thinking in my heart, I hope that the darkness in the primeval forest will not be disturbed by our various lights, everyone is careful, as far as possible not to make too much noise, quietly, quietly, as when I was young to go to the riverside field to steal watermelons, my heart is worried, but I am not willing to give up, I can hold a few watermelons out of the melon field, that is comfortable. I only hope to cross the blockade line as soon as possible, although I will lose some of the scenery on the road, but it is also a pleasure to sneak around with people in the forest through the night, how many times in this life?
Since it was not yet dawn, although the guide solang Tashi of the path in the primeval forest had already walked once during the day, the path was almost no one walked, and the traces were very difficult to identify. Solang Tashi rushed past the intersection where the lanes should have changed lanes, stopped the line, and hid in the darkness alone to find the way, and the team all turned off the lights and whispered messages to each other. Chatting, at this time, is a bold way to each other. Although the moon hung high in the sky, the faint light came down from the gaps in the primeval forest, and it was impossible to see people's faces at close. The only thing that is limited is that the volume must be absolutely controlled, and it is impossible to attract people who patrol the mountains because of sound, which will be a failure.
The sky of the plateau, really blue
Where has solang Tashi gone, will something go wrong with a person? Silently pray that Solang Tashi will appear in front of us smoothly. Not long after, a few strange cries came from the depths of the darkness, and Dolma called back a few times, and then told us that the way was found. It turned out that this cry and response was a long-term agreement between their husband and wife in the mountains, and the tacit understanding between the husband and wife was really enviable.
Sideways through the bushes, and then steeply descended in the thick pine forest, I don't know how far I went, anyway, I didn't stop, and finally I heard the sound of water, we should have descended from the highest part of the river valley to the lowest place, a stream appeared in front of me, and I didn't feel that the sky was already numb. Suddenly, there are voices around, not good, at this time, who will be in addition to patrolling the mountains? Someone in the front signaled to crouch down, and the people in the back were like a well-trained team, and they all squatted in their respective positions with a neat brush, and their eyes were all alertly looking around, and sure enough, a Tibetan-looking man approached the team. After walking for half a day, how come I haven't crossed the blockade line, and how can I have such bad luck? It's frustrating. I have to admit that sometimes when people have good character, they meet good things, and Solang Tashi and Dolma take the initiative to walk to the person, saying hello, but they seem to be getting closer and closer. When asked, the person who came was actually Solang Tashi's cousin.
Take a group photo at the yakuza
The brothers chatted a few times, and my cousin actually showed us the way. The river valley is full of water, and only the cousin knows best where to cross the river. My cousin took us through the bridge made of two big trees falling down, and then he went to do his business, only to let everyone look at his back and be stunned, are you sent by the mountain god Mo? Just to help us?
Across the small river, the guide said that this is still the territory of Daofu, only by turning over the mountain in front of you, that is Kangding, it is considered stable. Where to allow everyone to rest, continue to climb, just how much height has just dropped still have to climb back on the opposite mountain, steep rise, there is no gentle place to give people a little breathing. The "big long legs" are in good shape today, and they can actually keep up with the rhythm. On the contrary, the team's rainbow, blue lake, fox, inexplicable, happy line (the team members all use the net name), are senior team members who have crossed the plateau many times, and actually walked very, very slowly due to the early departure. Silk (net name), which is also the first highland hike, has long been silent and only image. After all, it was early in the morning, and I didn't eat breakfast, the energy consumption at high altitude was too fierce, and the team traveled very slowly, so I could replenish it at any time on the way. When the walk through the forest was on the verge of collapse, the steep rise ended and a log cabin appeared on the road ahead. Someone shouted loudly in front: It's time to reach the Boundary of Kangding!
Group photo of the camp team members on the third day. From left: Snake Eagle, Wang Jiao, Mo Ming, Fox, Green Lake, Happy Line, Silk, Rainbow After Rain, Hanjiang Snow
At this time, the time was more than nine o'clock in the morning, and I had unconsciously walked for four hours with high intensity. After the breakfast was replenished, the line continued on. The original plan of the trip was the hardest day, from a place called Taizhangou, walking through the hot springs, and then crossing the 4700-meter TagongyaKou. Due to the rising water of the small river, the road was washed off, forcing our hiking route to change. Cross over another yakou at an altitude of more than 4,400 meters and reach Muya Grand Temple in the Tagong Grassland.
On this day, the camp is under the invisible pass in front of it, all the way up the gentle slope without difficulty. On such a journey, someone arrived first at 12:30 p.m. When most of the team members arrived at the camp, they were so tired that they just wanted to go into the tent and lie still, and to sleep beautifully was to be able to relieve the physical and mental exhaustion, and it was conceivable that the road was difficult and hard.
In the distance is the Snowy Mountains of Yala, and then a yoga action
Years of highland hiking, today is also a miracle, in the past at noon is to hurry up after lunch, and today's afternoon actually in the blue sky and white clouds under the plateau of their heads sleep. The good time was actually under the sun on the plateau, listening to the wind and watching the sky. Life is really beautiful, thanks to the leader Fei Xue for temporarily changing such a hiking route for everyone.
The sunlight on the plateau is too warm, making the snoring in the tent a little hot. After a short sleep supplement, everyone has a feeling of "returning the yang", "big long legs" and team member Han Jiang Xue played "Plateau Yoga", with the snow mountains as the background, posing a variety of yoga's iconic movements. There are many people who can do yoga, but not many people on the plateau. There are many people on the plateau, but not necessarily yoga. It is really rare to be able to combine the two in one.
Team member Snow Kane is also a yoga enthusiast
The female team members took care of themselves and patted themselves, the old masters also had pastime, the tea of the big brother of Qinghu came too much at this time, just with a blue sky without a trace of clouds, on the endless meadow, to a cup of tea, right and as wine, pay tribute to a distant intoxicating snow peak, pay tribute to the like-minded teammates and guides around, respect a mouth of long-term enjoyment of the land in western Sichuan, beautiful!
At this time, the sky is very close, the snow peak is very close, several people drink tea without too many words, quietly let the sky and the snow peak share the sound of our breathing and heartbeat, at this time there is a kind of harmony between man and nature very extreme ease, as if this group of people has dissolved into this space.
Another one
Tomorrow's itinerary is relatively relaxed, and everyone in the tent after dinner sweeps away the silence of the previous two days, chats easily, and vomits about the feelings of these two days. I don't know who shouted to come out to see the stars, but this is a more fresh topic, the night sky is full of nebulae, it is said that there is a Milky Way (I am really ignorant), call it shutter slow, mobile phone or camera, everyone is full of stars in the sky a wild shot, poor city people, the stars have no chance to see!
"Whoops—whoops—" the sudden howl stopped the cheers of everyone. We hurried to call the guide, what is this sound. The guide said unhurriedly, "This is the cry of wolves, there may be seven or eight wolves." "The people who took pictures outside the tent also quickly hid in the tent, as if this was a safe house." In fact, where can the tent withstand the attack of the wolves. Teammates have never seen this battle, some people began to shout Dolma, what if there are wolves? Dolma's reply is easy, wolves do not take the initiative to attack people, their target is the yak in the mountains. Xu Ishu Dolma said very easily, at least to alleviate the anxiety of many people, there was no longer a sound in the tent, each of them slept with suspense in their hearts, and silently prayed in their hearts. Wolves, don't come and harass us. Could anyone really want a wolf or two to come to our camp?
The first time the whole journey was rain-free, it was really cool
Four
According to the plan, today is the last day in the mountain, out of the mountain, out of the mountain!
Last night's wolf howling did not have much impact on everyone's sleep, and it was rare to have such a good night in the mountains. In order to get out of the mountain at noon, catch the car to Kangding, get up early, have breakfast as soon as possible, and finish the package.
The last wide, gentle pass, looking up at the blue sky, yellowing dry grass quietly spread on the plateau as far as the eye could see. Walking up slowly, there is a kind of comfort in the sky, and sometimes I even want to run and spread wilderness on this grass. There were just a few people in the wilderness, and everyone scattered to find the experience they wanted. Suddenly, a group of yaks appeared in the direction of the yam, a large group, rushing towards us with great momentum, and the footage of the movie Red River Valley came, and it was almost terrifying.
In the distance is the Great Temple of Muya, so take a group photo
The yaks ran straight to us with the arrogance of no one in sight, without seeing anyone at all. Closer, closer, "big long legs" and silk where they have seen this face, they are a little overwhelmed when they see it. Fortunately, the young man who rushed out of the cattle in the oblique thorn rode his horse to hold the direction of the yak's advance, so that the whole herd passed by our team, and the young man greeted us handsomely - Tashi Delek! Looking at his riding appearance, coupled with the unique appearance of The Khampa Hanzi, it is simply handsome!
Walking easily through the pass, the road ahead went downhill, and in the distance you could see the villages around Tagong loosely sprinkled in the small mountain nests. The sky is very low, and the white clouds are like dots in the sky, which together with the rolling plateau hills and villages form a wide static picture. I had never seen such a big scene, such a clear and transparent Kawanishi Plateau, and I really wanted to find a place to sit and look at it like a nerd for a while. Look at the "big long legs" again, walking alone at the back of the line, I don't know if I am experiencing the feeling of walking alone at the end of the world, or the first time I walked into Chuanxi, I saw that I was going to go out, and it seemed that I was not willing to give up.
Flip over the mouth
There are several pastures down the hill, and the dotted yaks enjoy the soft sunshine, and the peace is really enviable. When I walked down the mountain, my heart was still unfinished. Looking back, I saw that Yara's snow peak was looking at me, this is to escort us?
On the way from Tagong to Kangding, Yala Sacred Mountain and Tagong Grassland combine into a variety of scenery, showing the beauty to the fullest, attracting people who travel by car to stop and take photos from time to time. The "big long legs" were very surprised, what were they doing? Her companion told her that the people were taking pictures, only to hear her blurt out: "What a head-slapping!" The whole team laughed. In the end, it is the person who came out of the mountain, who has a more intimate contact and feeling for Yala, and where can he still see Yala from afar. Rainbow, a member of the team, said that "Big Legs" answered the question himself, why are you so fascinated by highland hiking.
Walk down this downhill and the hike is over
Looking back at the Yarra Snow Mountain, which is gradually moving away, I thought over and over again: Chuanxi, we will come again!