"Fashion is a reincarnation", see more Z era cyberpunk, future technology, and then look back at the classic style, more and more feel retro is also a new trend.
When it comes to vintage, what comes to mind first? Disco sequins, denim flared pants, silhouette check suits... These marks belonging to the 80s have the highest nomination rates. When these elements are already commonplace, we push the time forward, what was popular in the 60s? Many people's first reaction is: this question is beyond the outline.
On September 28, Beijing time, paris's Tuileries Garden opened a mysterious time and space, women's creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri established a dialogue between the 60s and modern style, and Dior's Spring/Summer 2022 women's ready-to-wear collection kicked off.
Why the 60s?
Before the show, Dior released a short video in which Maria Grazia Chiuri made a special trip to the residence of Italian artist Anna Paparatti, inviting her to participate in the creation of the runway space for the season.
Anna Paparatti, one of the few recognized female artists in Rome in the early 60s, used fashion as an expression of rebellion. American poet and literary critic Susan Stewart once described her masterpiece " Nonsense Game " as " perfect, pure , and untouched connotations , every gesture is instinctive " .
Il Gioco del Nonsense (1964).
Although Anna owns many paintings, she rarely exhibits or sells her own works, and she shared many of her own artworks on the Dior runway.
The walls of the runway space are hung with digital dials, geometric works of art, and various color blocks on the ground, as if you have come to a large game space.
For Maria Grazia Chiuri, fashion is a game.
"Like all games, there are serious parts and there are interesting parts. People love fashion because it helps them make a difference in their lives. People dress to represent their present selves, they perform in different ways, they are always changing, and the show is the expression of fashion, an art of performance. ”
"Feminism" is known to be a very important part of Maria Grazia Chiuri's design, and when she looked at the Dior archive again, she couldn't help but be struck by Marc Bohan's "Slim-Line" series created in 1961.
In 1961, Marc Bohan became Dior's creative director, and the debut of the "Slim Look" series shocked the entire fashion circle, not only being regarded as a big win by the New York Times, but also winning the favor of so many Hollywood stars, Elizabeth Taylor ordered 12 dresses alone.
Marc Bohan, Dior's longest-serving creative director, and his famous phrase "Don't forget women" fully represents his Dior spirit: designing clothes that women love to wear.
Slim Look，Dior 1961
Maria Grazia Chiuri said: "I think this part of Dior's history is very close to my taste, my spirit. ”
In her SS22 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri brings this style back, both to reinterpret the aesthetics of the '60s and to pay homage to this era of awakening women's consciousness.
☆ Runway direct hit ☆
What to wear next spring and summer? Got it
Maria Grazia Chiuri traces her design style back to the early 1960s while setting a new fashion context for a world that is still floating in the midst of the pandemic.
Iconic flowers are no longer the protagonists, and this year a variety of bright colors and vibrant animal prints took to the Dior stage
Slim Look set
"Slim Look" draws on Marc Bohan's use of large color blocks, combining yellow, green, red, orange, berry red and navy blue contrast tiles, which are eye-catching and eye-catching.
In order to let the girls who wear it have a slender waist and beautiful lines, the details are also handled very carefully.
Slim Look chose the design of short tops + short skirts, and when it is warmer in spring and autumn, you can add a section of skin exposure to the waist and abdomen, which is sexy and sexy.
Girls with meat in the lower abdomen can also choose a normal size suit, and the waist line is outlined through the belt or waist design in the middle, whether it is with a small skirt or pants, it is very handsome
A-line mini skirt
Maria Grazia Chiuri designed the A-line dress for 21st-century girls with the aim of being shorter, shorter.
Without Dior's most commonly used flowers for decoration, only the delicate cuts and simple color panels are more playful, and the bright color blocks just echo the color installations of the show.
The gold fringed mini dress is simply made for the dance floor, hot and sexy, and wearing it can be said to be a proper C position.
This is a rare aspect of Maria Grazia Chiuri's design.
Sports suits
In addition to suits and skirts, baseball shirts, boxing shorts and sports underwear are a bit surprising, and Dior recombines nylon and diving fabrics in the sports suit to show a unique creativity.
The sports suit also includes a variety of colors, white shows Lady Dior's dignified and decent, interpreting the elegant image of Dior's women.
Yellow, orange, green and other ultra-saturated colors are more suitable for fashionable girls in the 21st century, showing a lively and bold side.
Handbags
The most anticipated thing for girls is the handbag link, the classic Bobby handbag, half-moon handbag and black and white shoulder bag are simple and capable, which is very suitable for workplace OL.
"Small bags" are still the focus of Dior, and Microbag continues to "shrink" and has now reached the level of a full hand.
The lens is zoomed in, and in addition to the smaller size, the refinement is still online.
Other super mini series have also been updated, with Lady Dior and 30 Montaigne introducing new color schemes from this color runway.
Ready-to-wear has a sports series, and handbags naturally have to move.
In this series, Dior brings a bowling handbag with a very 60's style, like the fitness bag commonly used by fitness girls.
Editors can already think of supermodels wearing leggings and carrying them to the gym.
Have you noticed the small details of the model's hand when looking at the gap between the bags? This season's Dior rings are really so much fun!
In previous years, most of the accessories were made of metal and pearls as the main materials, but in order to echo the runway and clothing, this year Dior's rings were uniformly replaced by various color combinations.
The surface of the ring is studded with the iconic CD logo, and the size is also a few circles larger than the ordinary ring, cute and arrogant, and the pink girl's heart can't be held back.
For young girls who have never heard of the Marc Bohan fashion storm of the 60s, Slim Look and miniskirts may be new knowledge points, but in Dior's fashion long river, this seems to become a classic aesthetic style.
This is why the Dior creations seen today can always inherit Dior's unique style, because the life trajectory of each work has not been forgotten, it has been incorporated into Dior's brand genes, either explicitly or implicitly, and returned to the public again at the right time.
How many points do you give for this season's work? The new Dior is your favorite style~