Source: Overseas Network
Hanfu design drawing.
Recently, at the fourth "China Chinese Costume Day", young people dressed in Hanfu.
At the 8th China Lilly Conference, young people dressed in Hanfu took a group photo.
Eguan Bo belt, ancient rhyme long. During this year's Qingming Festival, the first Flower Dynasty Hanfu Festival kicked off in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, and Hanfu lovers with green shirts and white coats and good makeup walked in groups of three or five, walking in the depths of a hundred flowers, or heroic and cool, or delicate and feminine, attracting the attention of tens of thousands of tourists.
The clothes are dancing like a shock. This year's Spring Festival, a program called "Tang Palace Night Banquet" became popular on the Internet. In the program, the actors wearing Tang costumes and powder noodles showed the prosperous culture in the graceful dance posture, and also made the traditional costume of Hanfu once again deeply rooted in the hearts of the people.
Whether it is offline gatherings or online interpretations, in recent years, more and more people have taken to the streets wearing Hanfu, and Hanfu has frequently entered the public eye, setting off a wave of enthusiasm in the whole society. What is the reason behind the rise of "Hanfu fever"? How can we continue the heat and let Hanfu go to thousands of households? A few days ago, the reporter walked into the Hanfu circle and tried to seek answers from the mouths of Hanfu enthusiasts, Hanfu merchants and industry experts.
○ Hanfu ushered in a new round of boom
Lead the fashion trend and unleash business potential
"3, 2, 1..." With a few countdowns, the unremarkable young man's painting style turned and transformed into a white-robed, heroic and beautiful man of national style.
The protagonist in the picture is called Chu Qi, who is a Hanfu enthusiast. Over the past two years, with its exquisite antique style and stunning contrast, it has quickly become popular on the Douyin short video platform, gaining nearly 7 million fans.
"Wearing Hanfu makes me more confident and allows more people to know and like Hanfu." Chu Qi said. At the end of last year, he decided to work full-time as a short video blogger. From Hanfu enthusiasts to Hanfu promoters, he admits that he wants to use his limited energy to do the most important thing, that is, to promote Hanfu and inherit Chinese culture.
Driven by The Chu Qi, Hanfu is becoming a new fashion. Taking the Douyin platform as an example, as of now, the total number of videos played on the topic of Hanfu has reached 48.23 billion times. In 2020, the number of Hanfu-related videos played on Douyin increased by 292% compared with 2018.
Hanfu fever has become a trend at the same time, but also released a huge commercial potential. According to e-commerce platform data, as of March 9, on Taobao Tmall, the search volume of "Hanfu" this year has reached 530 million person-times, with sales of nearly 2.8 billion yuan, of which "post-85", "post-90s" and "post-95s" have become the main force, accounting for nearly 70%.
The return to the HanTang brand store is one of the best. Opening the sales bill is a graph of continuous upward movements. From the beginning of its establishment in 2009, the annual sales were only about 200,000 yuan, to the 100 million yuan in 2019, the head of the brand, Lu Xiaowei, believes that behind the continuous doubling of hanfu product sales is the continuous improvement of people's recognition of Hanfu.
Around 2005, Lv Xiaowei and his team founded the Hanfu brand "Return to Hantang", becoming the first batch of Hanfu design, production and sales entrepreneurs in Chengdu, Sichuan. "The development of Hanfu in recent years has surprised us." Along the way, Lu Xiaowei witnessed the rise of Hanfu. In the early years, Hanfu was considered to be "strange costumes", which was not accepted by people, and after years of unremitting promotion by Hanfu enthusiasts, Hanfu entrepreneurs opened the situation in a commercial way, and ushered in this round of "Hanfu fever".
Related industry reports show that in 2019, the sales scale of China's Hanfu market reached 4.52 billion yuan, an increase of 318.5% year-on-year. According to industry analysts, in the next 2 to 3 years, China's Hanfu market will still maintain a growth trend, and driven by the new consumer groups that have grown up, Hanfu's coverage of consumers is expected to further accelerate.
○What is "Hanfu fever"?
The revival of traditional culture, the rise of short videos, and the continuous promotion of Hanfu enthusiasts
Hanfu show debuts in fashion week, wearing Hanfu festival lights, special cultural week focus on Hanfu... Not only leading the trend, but also into thousands of households, what is behind the heat of Hanfu?
"Hanfu fever is rooted in the revival of traditional culture in our country." Yang Na, executive director of the Clothing Professional Committee of the China Association for the Promotion of Traditional Culture, believes that in recent years, China's comprehensive national strength has stepped onto a new level, and on the road of economic strides, advocating Hanfu is not only the inheritance and respect of traditional culture, but also a concrete manifestation of enhancing national self-confidence and displaying the cultural self-confidence of a big country. "Especially since the Eighteenth National Congress of the Communist Party of China, the party and the state have attached great importance to the inheritance and development of China's excellent traditional culture, providing a good environment for the rise of Hanfu fever."
The development of the mobile Internet, especially the rise of short video platforms, has helped the promotion of Hanfu into the fast lane. "It can be said that this round of Hanfu boom is a product of the Internet." In Yang Na's view, from the original website and Tieba to today's Weibo and short videos, with the help of multi-channel image dissemination, Hanfu has been able to cross time and space and connect a wider range of groups. "In recent years, more ordinary people have shared the experience of wearing Hanfu with the help of short videos, so that Hanfu is a cultural symbol that accelerates its integration into daily life."
In fact, the popularity of Hanfu is not a temporary achievement, but the result of the long-term achievements of the Hanfu community and enthusiasts. "Those young people who are personally promoting the revival of Hanfu, although they are not researchers in the professional field, have invested a lot of energy in running and calling for it, and have become an important force in revitalizing Hanfu culture." Chu Yan, an associate professor at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, said. Deeply cultivating hanfu promotion for many years, Lu Xiaowei told reporters that the core circle of Hanfu has gone from dozens of people at the beginning to more than 3 million people in more than a dozen important cities across the country today. It is precisely because Hanfu enthusiasts have been doing promotion at the grassroots level in traditional festivals for several years that the Hanfu circle has continued to grow.
Not only enthusiasts, but also entrepreneurs are indispensable. "From design, production to sales, the improvement of the industrial chain really makes Hanfu visible and tangible." Lv Xiaowei introduced that in the past, Hanfu was mainly customized, with small output, long cycle and high price, which seriously hindered the promotion of Hanfu, after opening up the upstream and downstream, Hanfu began to enter mass production, and gradually became clothing, not only the production efficiency was greatly improved, the unit price was also greatly reduced.
According to Hanfu Information statistics, as of July 2020, there were a total of 1476 merchants selling original design Hanfu on Taobao, an increase of 45.77% compared with 2018. Compared with 7 in 2005, the number of hanfu merchants has increased by nearly 200 times in 14 years, and the explosive growth of Hanfu merchants has greatly ignited the enthusiasm of Hanfu consumption.
○How does Hanfu fly into the homes of ordinary people?
Innovation, development of relevant standards, integration of modern elements
Born in the grassroots, but successfully broke the circle under the efforts of many parties. In Yang Na's view, the road to the rejuvenation of Hanfu provides a development path for China's excellent traditional culture to move towards modern society.
After returning to the public vision, how to better fly into the homes of ordinary people is becoming a new examination question facing the development of Hanfu.
——Shouzheng innovation, based on traditional culture, to create a new Hanfu style.
"Unlike fashion, adhering to the mission of reviving traditional culture, Hanfu design pays more attention to originality." Hanfu designer Yuan Yi told reporters that the pattern and shape of Hanfu are not simple and aesthetic, there is a cultural meaning behind it, they either come from mural tombs, or treasured in museums, all have their own vein inheritance. Only by keeping right and innovating can we truly let traditional culture be retained and spread.
Traditional Chinese costumes include standing collar buckles, plain shirts and Zen clothes, as well as belts and deep skirts. In Chu Yan's view, as a designer, you can't simply imitate some of the superficial styles of clothing, but you must first return to the fundamentals, start from traditional Chinese culture, deeply understand how to use traditional weaving and dyeing and embroidery technology, sewing technology, master the rich meaning of patterns, on this basis, combined with the modern way of life and clothing concepts, so as to create a new Chinese style, in order to reproduce the cultural heritage.
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"The lack of industry standards is the biggest dilemma facing the promotion of Hanfu at present." Yang Na said. What exactly is Hanfu? How to design the specification of Hanfu? Consensus has long been absent on these issues. "At present, some people spontaneously promote Hanfu, due to the lack of uniform design standards, each for each other, the impact is relatively limited, it needs to be promoted at the national level in order to promote the long-term development of Hanfu." Yang Na said.
Some insiders believe that the norms of Hanfu include the specifications of shape, production and wearing, and should give full play to the role of experts and scholars in the history, aesthetics and clothing industry, and formulate relevant standards as soon as possible, which is conducive to marking the historical and cultural value of Hanfu and helping the Hanfu industry to get on the right track.
"With the rise of China's national strength, the return of Hanfu culture will be inevitable" "Hanfu is a beautiful thing, must have the value of dissemination" "The continuous addition of young people is injecting a steady stream of vitality into the promotion of Hanfu"... In the interview, whether it is Hanfu enthusiasts, practitioners or experts, they are full of confidence in the future of Hanfu and continue to promote Hanfu in practice.
After transforming into a full-time self-media blogger, Chu Qi is planning to make efforts to make a medium-long video, "The short video gives everyone a superficial intuitive feeling of Hanfu, and the medium-long video will add explanation and analysis to help everyone better understand the deep historical context and give cultural significance to the beauty of Hanfu." ”
Deeply cultivating Hanfu design for many years, Yuan Yi began to try to integrate modern elements into Hanfu, on the basis of respecting the traditional shape, it is integrated with fashion design, making it more suitable for daily life, in line with modern oriental aesthetics, and truly becoming a daily wear option in people's wardrobes.
(The picture of this article is provided by the reporter Han Xin of this newspaper)
People's Daily Overseas Edition ( April 21, 2021 Edition 07)