The biggest news in the Chinese fashion circle in these two days should be that Gong Huang has finally been on VOGUE.
I don't know how many people will subconsciously jump out of the phrase "live for a long time".
Yes, this is Gong Li's first letter since the launch of the Chinese vogue in 2005.
The actress, who has long been famous for her work, has been on the Singapore version of VOGUE as early as 1995.
In 2001, she also collaborated with Wong Kar-wai on the French edition of VOGUE's September blockbuster "Desire StreetCar".
Even in 2015, when Metaball, led by VOGUE, launched the Chinese style theme exhibition "Mirror Flower Water Moon", Gong Li was invited to serve as the co-chair of the current term.
Therefore, Gong Li's "blank space" in China has also made the outside world speculate for a long time.
All kinds of rumors have their own biases, but the central idea is highly consistent: whether it is VOGUE or Gong Li, if the other party is missing on their respective territories, it is a big pity.
So in 2021, I finally waited for the cover planning of the October issue that took more than half a year to polish.
As soon as Gong Li, dressed as a creature of the future planet, appeared, the rumors about her "not daring to try easily" were dispelled.
You know, this is the domineering queen who has not changed her lip color for many years and insists on "self-style"...
Over the years, Gong Li has only changed her hair color to red or brown, and light colors are simply impossible.
In this cover film, we see Gong Li's sincerity in trying for VOGUE.
The magazine editor recalled that Gong Li took out the momentum of making a movie, and in addition to the shooting day, he gave an additional eight hours to do trials and adjustments.
But I heard that Gong Li's meticulous requirements for shooting still exceeded VOGUE's expectations.
Because her attitude towards making magazines is both old-school and rigorous:
It doesn't matter if the clothes are big or not, but the characters, scenes, and plots must be established as the premise of the entire shooting, and this state cannot be interrupted.
Gong Li had to put herself into the scene first, convincing herself to believe in the storyline of the whole shooting, before she could start shooting, and to present the makeup and clothing that were not daily...
In addition to the newly tried white hair style, the wig is trimmed after Gong Li puts it on, and Gong Li has also made a careful selection of clothing in advance, and even shoes and socks have been compared one by one.
In the past magazine shooting, Gong Li was mostly in a fairy dress, and most of them tried street or sports style.
But this time, she was willing to wear the armor of a future female warrior, and it was not a luxury, but from a new designer brand.
Many of the photographs are "personal items", is it a bit strange?
Because the scene is not without couture costumes, but I heard that Gong Li did not even try it, she only needed these items that met the standard of "dramatic establishment", and more than 200 costumes could not choose 5 sets of shooting styles...
There is no ready-made costume, the editor will go to the scene a day or two in advance in accordance with the scene in the small shop and a treasure to find, and then cut and spliced the finished product on the spot...
In this way, it is also the first time in the history of VOGUE shooting.
In fact, Gong Li was invited to the seal, but also favored the "new" that the VOGUE editorial department was promoting.
Remember the cover of the September issue that used "New Man"?
Compared with the previous star and supermodel lineup, many people feel that this editorial department... Bold enough.
At that time, VOGUE's global editorial director Anna Wintour proposed a propositional essay of "NEW BEGINNING", allowing 27 versions around the world to play freely.
But the Chinese version is particularly interesting because it carries another meaning:
This is also the first independent answer sheet handed over by Margaret Zhang (Zhang Ning), who officially took over as editor-in-chief, and the new team six months after joining the company.
Everyone wants to know what new things the post-90s generation who has played with the Internet platform can play.
After all, she even stopped her personal ins for half a year, and did not appear until June to warm up for the fifth VOGUE Forces of Fashion summit.
At the summit in July, she also announced that through a public call, she would discover more new faces on VOGUE.
Half a month later, VOGUE China announced that Audrey Hu would be the magazine's fashion director.
Yao Yuhang, who was previously in this position, played for VOGUE for 13 years.
Audrey Hu's resume is also comparable, but the style is very different, and before joining VOGUE, he worked as a fashion director at Dossier.
It is said that the photographers who have worked frequently with Audrey Hu in recent years are Zhang Jiacheng, Zeng Wu, Hu Weishan... You can get a glimpse of her style of work, which is more artistic and niche.
Guo Caijie's new album styling is also from Audrey Hu.com
Even With Liu Wen, who previously collaborated with the Singapore version of VOGUE, Audrey Hu did not make his "literature" conform to the "mainstream".
Even the choice of photographers for the September issue was completely out of the regular list.
In the end, Ma Helen, a cutting-edge photographer who came out of the circle to shoot the documentary group of Xinjiang, was in charge.
These new forces in the fashion industry finally fixed the original and fresh that stood in the Landscape of Zhangye Danxia facing the light of the morning sun.
Vogue September also devotes a special space to introducing the new faces who have "come to the door" themselves.
Because most of them are ordinary people or rookies who have no public information.
Like Fan Jinghan, who appeared on the cover, she is 19 years old and still in college.
Although she signed a modeling agency, she did not have a major filming resume, and if it were not for this solicitation, she might not have been able to be seen so quickly.
In the same way, there is also The Zhong Feifei who uses a lot of close-ups to record her different beauty.
When vogue's September blockbuster was first released, someone found out that she was actually a creator of the camp.
The one who danced sweet songs on the stage didn't form a group, but here she was discovered more possibilities.
Compared with the theme of "Flying Youth" previously interpreted by Ju Xiaowen, Tang Yingshuang, Yuan Bochao, Xue Dongqi, Li Jingwen and Wang Luping, who have already made a name for themselves in the industry:
At present, VOGUE China actually dares to use the most important September issue to let Fan Jinghan and Zhong Feifei, who have no background, play to their fullest, and their ambitions are not small.
The "new" in the selection, and in line with the current era of diversified and inclusive fashion concepts, did open THE "New Beginnings" of VOGUE China.
The October issue of Gong Li is another direction for the VOGUE editorial board to explore the "new".
The film is Gong Li, and the story is set in Stanley Kubrick's "2001 Space Odyssey".
What is frozen by the lens of old friend Feng Hai is not the top actress who has been famous in the world for 30 years, but a virtual fantasy creature living on the future planet.
The posture jun asked insiders: Why didn't VOGUE shoot Gong Li before?
As a result, the other party diverted the topic with a "you understand" smile, "Why don't I tell you something else." ”
For example, Gong Li is willing to try new themes and new styles, but she needs a relatively familiar photographer to eat a "reassuring pill" for herself, so the two sides have decided on Feng Hai under discussion.
And Feng Hai also gave a lot of suggestions on themes, such as drawing inspiration from classic science fiction movies and constructing characters and stories by shooting movies.
Because he knows Gong Li's working style and serious attitude enough, vogue editorial department also feels that Feng Hai is the right candidate.
Zhang Ning, the editor-in-chief who was born abroad, watched Gong Li's movie for the first time was "Pretty Mother", and the most impressive one was "Big Red Lantern Hanging High"... In the film, Gong Li plays a reclusive but tough oriental woman.
So this time, she and Gong Li's team hit it off and were determined to "subvert".
Even the glyphs used on the cover have been redesigned because of the sci-fi theme:
Silver-gray tones are gradient-treated in the main color of the blockbuster, visually creating a cold metallic feel.
Sci-fi director Kubrick's favorite sans-serif Futura font also replaced the magazine's usual Didot font, and added a complicated "introduction to content" on the cover.
This delicate but meaningful change also reflects what kind of "New Beginnings New Chapter" has been opened under Zhang Ning's VOGUE.
The posture jun flipped through the new September issue, which photographed the new trend of fashion week, and it was very interesting to use fisheye and wide-angle lens distortion to emphasize the size careful machine that the brands love to play.
The celebrity feature article that everyone pays attention to, this issue does not choose the so-called large flow, but uses Wen Qi, Huang Yao and Lin Boyang, which are several potential faces, to outline the image of the young generation of actors who pay attention to self-feelings.
Darkly, there is a feeling that the new VOGUE is deliberately avoiding "traffic".
So the posture jun directly asked, what is the standard for vogue today?
"To be interesting, to be creative, to have their own unique style and personal charm, the most exciting and unmissable character of this era."
Obviously, the Chinese version of VOGUE under the new chapter does not intend to set limits, nor does it reject anything.
The cover characters of Ninety-Two Months speak for themselves.
Posture
Chrison
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