The words "Sanyi Garden" are easy to think of the Shu Han Liu Guan Zhang Taoyuan Sanjieyi, although this is likely to be the plot rendered by later novelists, but its core "righteousness" has been incarnated into a specific level of identity and yearning, affecting the world for thousands of years, looking forward to its life, sometimes looking forward to its own reach.
The old Chengdu people have a more direct understanding of Sanyi Garden, which is a Sichuan food restaurant famous for beef burnt cakes in the early years. Using this as a shop sign, at first glance, is inevitably a big deal. After tasting it carefully, I found that a very ordinary and "righteous" little person and a very ordinary and long-lasting small burnt cake made this dusty old brand really deserved.
Sanyi Garden signboard
Beef burnt cake is a traditional Sichuan-style pancake, with butter crispy hot noodle skin, with Sichuan-style seasoned beef as the filling, fried in a pan, the finished product is crispy and crispy, tender and refreshing, so it is called "jiao", similar varieties of beef caramel, beef charred bun and so on.
At the beginning of the last century, Wang Jingting and three others opened a restaurant in Zoma Street, Chengdu, which was named Sanyi Garden, following the allusion of Taoyuan Jieyi, and specialized in beef burnt cakes and braised beef noodles. Sanyiyuan's beef burnt cake has a unique flavor in making skin and filling, and was further promoted by a dumb chef named Cao Tycoon, also known as dumb burnt cake.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > spent his life guarding the Sanyi Garden and being loyal to his righteousness</h1>
Turning over Cao Tycoon's resume, his whole life is related to Sanyi Garden: Cao Tycoon, born in Chengdu in 1908, born unable to speak, entered Sanyi Garden as an apprentice in 1921, worked as a chef in Sanyi Garden in 1924, cooked at Sanyi Garden in 1945, retired from Sanyi Garden in 1985, died in 1992, at the age of 84. Not counting the time to return to the store after retirement, Cao Tycoon has worked in Sanyi Garden for 64 years and has not changed in his life.
In the early years, East Avenue, the back site of Sanyi Garden
This is quite difficult in the catering industry, Sichuan cuisine requires chefs to learn as much as possible, and it is common to change the door after leaving the teacher, this phenomenon generally appears in snack owners, and it must be a family craft. As a part-time worker, from apprenticeship to retirement, it is not easy to master for decades, and such a situation is rare. With the craftsmanship of Cao Tycoon, not to mention the self-reliance portal, that is, to go to the hotel restaurant to find an errand, may also gain more, but he chose to start from the beginning.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > sixty-four years of making burnt bread and keeping the word</h1>
Cao Tycoon has been making beef burnt cakes all his life, and the reason why he has been prosperous for a long time is that he is still remembered because he has been doing things according to Master's requirements and his own standards. He is the second generation master of Sanyi Garden, and the beef burnt cake in the shop was already famous before his arrival, and when he took over the master's frying pan, he did not forget to stick to his way and strive for excellence.
Chef Cao is very particular about making burnt cakes. Use boiling water to knead the flour into hot noodles, add butter to make the puff pastry, and then add the green onion and knead properly before making the skin. The filling is made of fresh and tender beef leg meat, remove the excess tendon impurities, chop and then mix into Pixian watercress, peppercorns, salt, ginger, mash juice, green onion and mix well, and then add an appropriate amount of original soup beef juice to moisten the flavor and freshen.
Make burnt bread
After wrapping the round, use three fingers to flatten the cake noodles, leaving three iconic indentations, put into a shallow bottom pan to fry over low heat, in the process, you should use your hands to constantly flip up and down, and drizzle the cooking oil in time, until the two sides are golden brown, and the two convex edges are slightly brown.
Chew the best flavor while it is hot, one bite down the skin is crisp and tender, piping hot and fragrant, the grease that has been fried into the puff pastry, along the gap between the teeth, emerges again, soaked in the beef heart and green onions, oil juice, gravy, shallot juice intertwined, salty and fresh slightly hemp, scorched skin, puff pastry, glutinous skin layers of staggered, the entrance slag, strange fragrance, and then with a bowl of carefully boiled beef soup, comfortable to the extreme.
When the street is fried and sold, the frying process is completely open, and many people have imitated it but always lack flavor. The trick is in the ratio of ingredients to noodle filling, use good materials, make enough materials, and then be consistent, these words are simple, but if you want to insist on decades, I am afraid it is not so easy.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > be kind to the buyer and apprentice, and have feelings and righteousness</h1>
In the late 1950s, SanyiYuan moved from Zoma Street to East Avenue, and even people brought food into another store, still hanging Sanyiyuan signboard, and continued to be managed by Cao Tycoon, with better locations, larger areas, and more prosperous business.
Pancakes out of the pan
At the end of the 1970s, Cao Tycoon had become the Dinghai God Needle of Sanyi Garden, although at that time he had rarely personally operated, more to guide the younger generations, but as long as he went to the store, the diners who ate burnt cakes for many years would feel particularly kind, and the takeaways would queue up at the door, and the dine-in would wait for the seats, and they would not tire.
Cao Tycoon's feelings for the burnt cake and the buyer are all written on the scarred and calloused hands, because he has long insisted on using his hands instead of using a spatula to turn the cake, it is inevitable that he will be splashed with oil. It seems a little difficult for others to understand, why should they use their hands when they have tools? Such a complex may be the silent expression of Master Cao, writing his own language in a frying pan with his hands.
Cao Tycoon passed on the beef crappy technique to his descendants, and people like Ye Chengquan, Lu Haiquan, Li Huazhao, Cao Shufen and others are the inheritors of this craft. After entering the 1980s, Sanyiyuan added many other varieties to the beef burnt cake and braised beef noodles, and in the late 1990s due to demolition and closure, some people opened shops in Manjushri Square and other places a few years ago, and then disappeared.
Beef burnt cakes that once existed
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > the big "righteousness" flavor of "small" characters, chengdu bottom taste</h1>
The dumb master Cao Tycoon used his life to express the "new righteousness" of Sanyi Garden, morality, loyalty and righteousness. To a large extent, this is another interpretation of traditional culture; to a smaller extent, this is Sichuan cuisine's dedication to Sichuan taste.
Together with Liao Yongtong of the mole-bearded bun, Huangshu Mountain of Guyue Hu Sanhe Mud, Lu Shupei of Tongjing Lane, and Guo Yongfa of Guo Tangyuan, he left the most precious city flavor for Chengdu with the simplest food and the most rare persistence.
It is precisely because of the existence of these obscure "small" characters that today's gastronomic capital can have such a solid foundation. This kind of background will not be dissipated by the changes of the times, will not be lost by the blurring of memory, perhaps it will temporarily fade, as long as it is restarted, it can be renewed for a long time.
Burnt bread on the feast
Text/I Sichuan
Some of the pictures are from the Internet and are for illustrative purposes only
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