Last week, the mainland's first Tsukiya Bookstore opened in Hangzhou. The focus of the instant literary and art circle is on this city with a history of more than 2,000 years and one of the six ancient capitals - Hangzhou.
Taitai immediately booked a ticket to the scene to find out, and by the way spent a weekend in Hangzhou.
Legend has it that Hangzhou is a "food desert". Under the leadership of the natives of Hangzhou, the Platform that even ate 17 stores in 48 hours wanted to say how could there be no good places in Hangzhou!
The first stop is the Tsubasa Bookstore in Tianmu, Hangzhou. With white as the main body, the classic transparent large glass floor-to-ceiling windows, as always the atmosphere and clean Japanese style, under the cover of the trees next to it, the whole is very close to the Tsukiya Daiguan mountain T-SITE, and the platform can't help but stop and take a few pictures first.
At night, when you look at the red corridor, the Tsutaya Bookstore at night has a special charm, giving people the illusion of being in Tokyo.
It is divided into two parts: the first floor and the underground layer, the first floor is three interconnected glass houses, which are coffee bars and three different sections of photography, fashion and art; the first underground floor is a combination of architecture, humanities, literature, design and other spaces.
Entering through the gate, the first thing that comes into view is actually a coffee bar (for a moment I thought I had gone wrong). Looking up, an entire wall is filled with all kinds of books, emitting a strong aroma of books.
After visiting the photography area first, most of the books of Japanese photographers are found, and araki Shihide and Moriyama Avenue, which are popular among literary and artistic young people, can be found.
When the world-famous paintings such as "Mona Lisa", "Scream" and "Sunflower" are engraved on socks, I wonder if you fashionistas can hold it?
Down the elevator downstairs, the underground floor appears more "miscellaneous", handmade, stationery, tourism maps of cities around the world, rich content is worth a few laps.
If you're tired, you can sit back and take a nap on the black sofa in the building area.
The staff at Tsutaya Bookstore are called "lifestyle aesthetic consultants" and convey the idea of Tsutaya as a proposer of lifestyles, not only selling books, but also presenting us with different ways of life.
Looking at the entire Tsuruya Bookstore, the number and variety of books are considerable, and many of them are original books. In terms of price, the price of books and magazines is about twice that of Japan, and the price of the cultural and creative part is higher.
Overall, the mainland's first Tsukiya bookstore did not disappoint those who were waiting. Shanghai's Tsutaya Bookstore will also open in December this year, and we are looking forward to a wave of sites in Shangsheng New Office!
Also good to visit is the park where the house is located, Tianmuli, which is also the treasure punching place harvested by Taitai in Hangzhou. Adjacent to the West Lake Scenic Area and Xixi National Wetland Park, it was designed by the famous Italian designer Renzo Piano, which was his first design work in China.
As a new concept art and culture park, Tianmuli is surrounded by 17 buildings of different shapes, and from an office point of view, it is the headquarters campus of Gangnam Buyi (JNBY) and Elephant Design (GOA).
The Tianmuli Park also launched a "One Tree & Fifty Ideas" public art project, inviting 50 artists, each of whom adopted a tree, and used it as a source of inspiration to create 50 interactive art installations.
For example, this yawning tree has several horns hanging on it, playing a strange yawn sound one after another.
It's also home to influencer brands. Seesaw's first store in Hangzhou, a Shanghai internet celebrity chain coffee shop, also chose Tianmuli and brought a limited special "Xizi Longjing American Style". (Unfortunately, because the queue is too long, the platform did not drink)
In addition, there are also a large number of first-line consumer brands such as Xicha, Cycle & Cycle, %Arabica, CINKER PICTURES and so on. Meiri Space, Meiri Hotels and Pavilions will also open one after another, and Tianmutri will surely become a new landmark of art and commerce in the form of screen brushing.
Autumn is the most charming season in Hangzhou, and if you want to enjoy this charm, you must open it in a "slow" way, so our second stop is this black pearl restaurant - Guiyu Mountain House. It is located in Manlong Guiyu, one of the ten scenic spots of the West Lake, and focuses on creative private dishes.
The door is hidden in the middle of the mountainside, pushing the door in, the tea fragrance mixed with the fragrance of osmanthus flowers, which is pleasant. On the first floor is a restaurant, on the second floor is a tea room, and teachers come to teach every week.
The clerk took us to the second floor for a tour, and there were two paintings hanging on the wall, one was a masterpiece and the other was a natural landscape painting.
Looking out from the frame, you can see the beautiful scenery of Manjuelong, elegant and full of life.
After you are seated, the clerk will first let you choose a teacup and present you with a cup of signature osmanthus nine-curved red plum.
Jiuqu Red Plum, also known as "Jiuqu Oolong", is a treasure in black tea. The tea soup is clear, under the delicate taste, the lips and teeth are all faint cinnamon fragrance, which will not disperse for a long time. Taitai couldn't help but add a pot to accompany the meal very comfortably.
The furnishings on the table are very telling, and the candlesticks with Chinese characteristics are placed on the rice paper. Listen to the clerk, the color of rice paper will change according to the change of seasons, carefully think about the full score.
The small red bowl on the table contains the quotations of Master Zhengyan, and when you open one at random, Zen will leap onto the paper in the form of words, smoothing out your irritable mood in a second.
Echoing the name of "Guiyu Mountain House", many dishes contain osmanthus elements. The most classic osmanthus sugar lotus, wrapped in glutinous rice and drizzled with strawberry jam, has a solid taste, but it is a little greasy to eat too much. (The above maltose shreds are edible)
Longjing shrimp is a famous dish in Hangzhou, Guiyu Mountain House uses wild shrimp, every morning there are special people to peel, the freshness is self-evident. The shrimp with Q bombs are poured with some broth, and they can be eaten in an empty mouth, and they can also be dipped in Gangnam rice vinegar.
Tofu, sea urchin, green beans, sweet potatoes, diced sweet shoots, shrimp, abalone and millet spicy sea urchin eight treasure tofu are gathered and bubbling. After the high temperature of the stone pot, the umami taste of the sea urchin is stimulated to the fullest, and the tofu is stewed soft and rotten, and it is wiped out as soon as it is served.
Covered in layers of dry ice, the bluestone slab plums are small rows, and the presentation is exquisite and elegant. The fat and thin pork ribs are hung with a uniform sauce, and the taste is like the sweet and sour steaks that Shanghainese like, with a sweet and sour taste.
The last hard dish is arranged with aged flower carved drunken cream crab. Recently, it is the season of fattening crabs, Guiyu Mountain House chooses Taizhou Sanmen Green Cream Crab, and then uses the lees of 15 years of flower carving wine to get drunk for 7 days before it can be served.
Crab yellow is rich in gum, like the jelly of the Q bomb slipped into the mouth, with the blessing of flower carving wine, the rich taste added a hint of wine aroma.
According to the clerk, there are more than 4,000 osmanthus trees near Manlong Guiyu. If it is the season of osmanthus blossoms, walking in a circle outdoors can be drizzled with a rain of osmanthus flowers, romantic and dreamy!
For a while
Hangzhou, known as the "tea capital", has a history of tea drinking for thousands of years. The earliest can start from the Southern and Northern Dynasties, to the Tang Dynasty, most of the tea plants are planted in the Tianzhu Lingyin area, the superior natural conditions of the Lingshan Mountains, Hangzhou's tea is naturally the best in tea. One of the most famous is the West Lake Longjing, which is praised by Qianlong.
In modern times, Hangzhou people still have a deep love for tea, from the crowded self-service tea house to the quiet private tea room, tea culture has penetrated into their lives.
At one time, it was recommended by a friend who loved to drink tea, on the Tianzhu Road next to the Lingyin Temple, the path next to it was surrounded by greenery, and there was a sense of "winding paths and seclusions" along the way.
In addition to the unique location, the temporary environment gives people the illusion of escaping in the downtown area. The private rooms are tatami-style, and the tables and tables are separated by a curtain to disturb each other.
Basic tea from 150 yuan / person, there are 6 kinds to choose from, if you are the first time to drink tea, it is recommended to start from the basic drink. Each table will not only be accompanied by preserved fruits, black beans and pastries, but also a special tea artist will help you brew and explain the knowledge of tea.
Before the first brew of tea, the tea artist will let you smell the tea itself. Taitai chose Fuding white tea, which smells of lotus leaves, and then smells after hot brewing, and the aroma gradually rises.
After drinking the second brew, the medicinal aroma in the white tea is stimulated, the mellowness is thicker, and the taste is more balanced with sour preserved fruit.
On the new tea, I chose the seasonal osmanthus red, and the yellow dried osmanthus flowers emitted a faint fragrance, the aroma was pleasant, and the fragrance of the osmanthus flowers would fade with the increase of the number of brews.
Just as the so-called "one year of tea, three years of medicine, seven years of treasure", the tea leaves that have been stored for a longer time, the tea artist will brew them with a purple sand pot, which can better taste its flavor and mellow thickness.
After the third brew, the tea artist will teach you the brewing technique, and the time after that is left for the guests to experience for themselves. Taitai soaked for an afternoon, drinking tea while feeling the charm of Late Autumn in Hangzhou.
Come to Hangzhou, the first choice is still Hangzhou to help dishes. But Hangzhou locals rarely eat traditional old-bottomed dishes such as Song Sister-in-law fish soup and West Lake vinegar fish. Therefore, after the recommendation of several gourmets, Taitai found 3 recommended Hangzhou dishes, there are home-cooked small restaurants, there are fusion dishes, and the personal tests are delicious and not expensive.
Deming Hotel
Every city has a very cattle home-cooked restaurant, and I think the non-Deming Hotel in Hangzhou is the only one, after all, it is a delicious food certified by Shen Hongfei, the consultant of "China on the Tip of the Tongue".
It is hidden in the bagua new village a little distance from the city center, (this neighborhood is also very magical, there is no shortage of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon small restaurants, there is time to explore the shop for it alone) Taitai weekdays at 1:30 p.m. to have to wait for a while.
The first dish of brine duck amazed me, and I used about half a duck on a plate. Compared with the criticism of duck meat in some shops such as too dry or too heavy seasoning, his family is moderately fat and lean, and the duck meat does not smell at all. Whether it's an empty stutter or dipped in a special marinade, it's great.
The brine large intestine is marinated first and then fried. To its credit, the intestines were washed very clean and did not smell at all. Probably because it has been left for a long time, the skin of the fried large intestine is not brittle, and the inside of the bite is a little dry.
If there are few people, you can put the brine duck and the brine intestine into a double spell, and eat two flavors at a time.
The fried shrimp using river prawns for stir-frying is not large, but it is better than the taste of plump and elastic teeth. The entrance is first the aroma of fried onions and ginger, with a sweet taste in the aftertaste, and it is most enjoyable to eat directly with shells.
Deming's stir-fried waist flower, the thickness of the waist flower is handled just right, the crisp and tender taste, the thickness of the moderate hook, is the perfect waist flower I imagined, just rice, with the green peppers and bamboo shoots inside, can cook two large bowls of rice.
The emotional representative in Hangbang cuisine - three fresh soups, Deming's ingredients are very conscientious, there are fish balls, river shrimp, pork belly, meat skin. But the fish balls used are frozen, not enough Q bullets, the lard added to it is not fragrant enough, a bowl of belly, more like drinking a bowl of smorgasbord soup.
Vegetables also have to choose seasonal, asparagus tender, horseshoe sweet, after eating a number of heavy dishes, come to a chopsticks to immediately relieve the grease.
Before coming to Deming, being madly amway by my friends didn't disappoint me. The soft pumpkin strips are wrapped in a layer of fried egg yolk puree, salty and sweet, and sure enough, nothing can go wrong with egg yolk stir-frying.
I heard that during the eleventh period, if you want to eat Deming, you have to come to get the number before 10 o'clock in the morning, and many dishes may be sold out late. To be honest, as a Hangzhou cuisine, deming restaurant tastes really authentic. But if I had to wait in line for two hours, the meal would have lost the usual taste of a homely restaurant.
Old knows how to eat tea
At the foot of Phoenix Mountain, the Broom Bay is a magical existence, and the Nangong Wall of the Imperial City is about the area near the Broom Bay. Therefore, as the ruins of Lin'an City, the antique atmosphere is the most suitable for opening private dishes, and Lao Zhi is one of them.
The decoration is Japanese-style, there is no fancy whistle of the internet red shop, the log-colored environment is clean and atmospheric, the blackboard is densely written with the name of the dish, and the wall is broadcast "China on the Tip of the Tongue", which is a comfortable range.
A bowl of sour plum soup, red dates, tangerine peel, plums, hawthorn, the old man's material is really very good. Sweet and sour, raw and appetizing, if you come to a bowl of ice in the summer, it will definitely be more refreshing.
Stinky tofu has "two faces" here: fried and sashimi. Yes, you heard it right, stinky tofu actually has such a hardcore method as sashimi.
In fact, raw tofu is marinated in a brine tank and served with a special sauce. The smell is not so strong, and the tofu without any seasoning is as silky as ice cream, and it is acceptable to eat it.
But if you don't like to eat stinky tofu yourself, I sincerely recommend not to try it.
If you want to drink, you must have a drunken shrimp, which is different from the drunken shrimp I imagined, and his family is a cooked and drunk giant river prawn. Listen to the shop, shrimp are served fresh every day, cooked for an afternoon can be drunk, full of shrimp meat wine full of aroma.
If you are a lover of sweet and sour, then you must try the vinegar fried chicken, sweet and sour and salty three flavors in one, very under the rice!
This lotus pond moon color, the name sounds beautiful, the taste does not drag behind. Fresh seasonal dishes, Dutch beans, russet, lotus chips, black fungus, diamond horn, simple stir-fry seasoning, eat is clear mouth, to several meals are big fish and meat of the platform a little "I eat vegetables" psychological comfort.
TaiTai casually clicked a few times in the old understanding and did not step on the thunder. And the old understanding of the business hours until the early hours of the morning, has been automatically classified by me as a stomach-to-stomach supper worth punching again. There is also a big head hidden food restaurant next to it that is equal to its popularity, which is one of the destinations for my next trip to Hangzhou.
Xixi Villa
Xixi Villa, which ranked first in Hangzhou's private dishes on the review list, had the greatest expectations for it before I went, but it turned out that high expectations were really not a good thing.
The best in the game - mustard shrimp balls, shrimp balls that have been fried beforehand drizzled with mustard sauce, the faint taste of mustard is not overbearing at all, even people who do not like mustard can accept it.
The three fresh soups are a little more solid than Deming's ingredients, using a broth base of chicken soup, and the umami taste is also more intense. Milk cabbage is soaked in the soup base and is fragrant.
The freshly killed Qianjiang white strips, using the simplest soy sauce steaming method, the fish meat is quite tender, there is no fishy taste, but compared to other fish, the white strips have more thorns, and it is more or less inconvenient to eat.
Dried roasted duck with bamboo shoots in thick oil and red sauce, although the duck meat is not chai, but the seasoning is a little too heavy, and the more you eat it, the saltier it becomes.
Maybe it's because it's late, a lot of signature dishes are sold out, a meal to eat, not to talk about the sense of surprise, fortunately, the cost performance is good, a large table of dishes per capita is not more than a hundred.
If it is a large family to play near Xixi, Taitai feels that it can be tried, the taste is suitable for all ages, and the service attitude is also good.
During the 48-hour trip to Hangzhou, the most important thing was a bowl of noodles. Hangzhou people do not pick the opposite type, generally use alkaline water surface. But there are many kinds of noodles and toppings, such as sliced river, three fresh noodles, shrimp popcorn noodles, mixed sichuan, eggplant sauce mixed with sichuan...
The most classic of Hangzhou's noodle culture is the "Kataer Chuan", which was created by the century-old Kuiyuanguan. Delicious slices of Sichuan meat are tender, bamboo shoot slices are refreshing, salty and fresh poured tuk dishes increase the umami taste, and a meal is full of fun.
The three fresh noodles in the Kuiyuan Pavilion are also good, the toppings are covered with puffs, and the soup base is fresh and thick. When the eel is abundant, be sure to try the shrimp pop-fried eel noodles again to identify the deliciousness of the "King of Jiangnan Noodles".
Mixed river is another important role in Hangzhou's noodles.
Some people think that mixing sichuan is actually fried noodles, which is very wrong. It is not as greasy as fried noodles, and compared to other ordinary mixed noodles, it has one more pot gas under the fierce attack of hot oil.
Eggplant sauce mixed sichuan is the hottest noodle restaurant in Hangzhou - the product of Fang Boss, the taste is sour and sweet, the tomato flavor is rich and flavorful, compared to the ordinary mixed Sichuan I pick eggplant juice more.
The toppings of the mixed river are all cooked to order. The aunt in the kitchen, left and right to work, after a burst of fierce stir-frying, the aroma came out, the toppings were covered, and a set of clouds and flowing water movements were seen. (Be sure to add lard residue, more fragrant!) ）
Nowadays, many foreign tourists like to add crazy ingredients on the mixed river, such as waist flowers, eels, pork liver and so on. In fact, the most ordinary shredded meat mixed with Sichuan can best see the strength of a noodle restaurant, accompanied by a bowl of shrimp skin seaweed squeezed vegetable soup brewed with boiling water, and the stomach is very bad.
If you ask the people of Hangzhou, "Which piece of Sichuan or Mixed River is delicious?" The answer is definitely different, because in the hearts of Hangzhou people, everyone has their own map of eating noodles.
In addition to noodles, Hangzhou people's breakfast has a lot of flower essence. For example, a bowl of hot beef vermicelli soup with fried buns of green onion, small ravioli and fried wontons sell group CP, any combination has n pairings.
Baomei dim sum shallot fried bun, 8 cents a piece, the old acquaintances are 15, 20 starting points, piled up like a hill. The freshly fried bun makes a sizzling sound, sprinkles a handful of shallots and titian, and people are salivating.
The old noodles are fermented with a stiff crust, the bottom is fried brown and crispy, there is almost no soup inside, and the seasoning of the meat filling is just right, one bite at a time, fragrant!
Shanghainese beef vermicelli soup must be associated with curry, but Hangzhou people's beef vermicelli soup is simple to season, and what is added is not beef slices, but beef foam.
Sweet potato flour is so poorly cooked that it cannot be eaten with chopsticks, but directly gulped down.
Small ravioli look at the skin, and large ravioli eat filling. Hangzhou's small wontons are thin-skinned, light in texture, small one, very cute!
Hangzhou people's love for bamboo shoots is also reflected in the sale of pork shoots, and the sale of pork fresh bamboo shoots is the best example. It is stuffed with dried bamboo shoots, the skin is translucent, the appearance is full and beautiful, and it is sold one by one.
Locals pour vinegar on the yakitori, and the umami taste of bamboo shoots and the sour taste of vinegar are intertwined, accompanied by steaming heat, and the taste buds are well satisfied. Take a sip of salted tofu brain and enjoy it even more.
Known as the "Hangzhou Pancake", the onion wrapped juniper is made by wrapping fritters and chives in a pancake crust and frying them in a pan. The onion wrapped juniper is pressed tightly to be chewy. Wait until the surface becomes golden and crispy, and the green onion shreds sandwiched in the middle are looming, and then coated with sweet noodle sauce and hot sauce, which is crispy and delicious, which is the taste of old Hangzhou in my mind.
Those snack street garnier, added tofu bamboo is not a serious onion wrapped juniper, but really like pancake fruit.
After eating the onion wrapped juniper, the carbohydrate stomach was opened. Just passing by Lin Xuan Hair Cake, I bought a box of Osmanthus Hair Cake, soft, wine and osmanthus fragrance gently diffused between the lips and teeth.
"Wading through the mountains" was taken back to the editorial department, and it was unanimously praised by everyone, and even some people specially searched for a treasure to buy.
Recently, it is the harvest season of small walnuts, and the aroma of the roadside fried stalls is hooked, and the small walnuts to be peeled are all round and rolling.
If you have not eaten fried rice dumplings, I advise you to try it, glutinous rice bread with a layer of oil residue, very magical taste.
The truest appearance of a city is hidden in the night, and the night of Hangzhou people is also filled with food.
At 11 o'clock in the evening, the nameless supper stalls in the alley were bustling with people. "5 fresh meat fried dumplings and leeks of the double spell", "Auntie, a thousand bags to give me more soup", "Boy, I owe you a fried dumpling, you eat slowly!" "The other side of Hangzhou starts with a late-night snack.
Anonymous uses a small frying pan, so it takes a long time to fry dumplings in one pot. Fried dumplings fried in lard have their own pyrotechnics, the base is thin, the leek filling is heavy, and the fresh meat filling is tight and juicy.
The old food that will be eaten will come back to the bowl of mixed noodles and a thousand pieces of soup, the price is also gratifying, the real name envy Hangzhou people!
Under the leadership of hangzhou locals, I seriously ate the platform for two days and found that I had gone to fake Hangzhou before!
Hangzhou is a two-sided city, aside from the stubborn prejudice of "e-commerce", "Internet celebrity" and "poor transportation" in this city, it was once the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, and it still retains traces of ancient culture, and the thick historical precipitation can be seen on those mottled buildings.
The charm of the city of Hangzhou should not be underestimated. Welcome to the indigenous people in the comment area of Amway your private shop in Hangzhou, take advantage of the weather is not cold, let The Platform find another weekend to eat!
Text | Pig Brother
Figure | Small Si
Design | Eleven