<h2 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 1 Bee Shed Construction: Mating Greenhouse, Winter Greenhouse, Nesting Greenhouse</h2>
1. Mating greenhouse: Every year from mid-October to mid-November, according to the different climates of each region, we will move the quasi-queen bee and the male wind into the mating greenhouse for mating;
Second, the winter greenhouse: every Year in December according to the different climates of each region, the mating queen bee will be moved into the winter greenhouse, provided to the queen bee for winter;
3. Nesting greenhouse: When the queen bee can safely survive the winter and wake up, in March of the next year, according to the climate of each region, the queen bee who will start nesting will be moved into the nesting room to start nesting.
So how to build these breeding greenhouses of wasps, what materials to use, in fact, I want to say that there are many materials, ways and methods, the size of the words according to their own requirements, the scale to do it, the most important thing, no matter what you build, what materials to use, as long as you can prevent the queen bee from escaping, if the economic conditions are better, you can use the angle steel structure to build, not only strong and very convenient to use, if you want to save money, then we can use bamboo strips to build is also very good, After the entire greenhouse structure is built with steel frame or bamboo, the plastic film, yarn mesh, and shade net are laid on the trellis to form a greenhouse, and we need to pay attention to the mating greenhouse and the nesting greenhouse should be able to ventilate and disperse, and can be transparent, and the winter greenhouse needs shade. We often build nesting greenhouses and wintering greenhouses to save money, which can be shared! Please see the following picture to learn!
Mating greenhouse example:
Examples of winter greenhouses:
Examples of nesting greenhouses:
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 2 Two winter box design structures and production methods</h2>
Winter box one:
The commonly used winter box method is to drill a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a length of 1 meter, dry wood pillars, and drill a hole with a diameter of 8 cm with a drilling machine, as shown in the figure:
Winter box two:
The second kind of wintering box is now a more commonly used design structure, this design winter survival rate is higher, good safety, can prevent rats from invading the queen bee, such as
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 3 Structure and design method of wild breeding of soil bee hives</h2>
Structural design of the wild soil beehive:
The purpose of designing this nest box is to facilitate our transplantation when we breed native bees in the wild, more convenient to take bee pupae in the later stage, and better protect the bee cake from damage. To this end, we have designed a square earth beehive box to facilitate our beekeeping.
First look at the structure diagram: length 80cm, width 80cm, height 100cm; The material is made of wood planks that are free of chemical contamination.
Structural analysis: The design of this hive is simple and practical, drill two inlet and outlet holes in front of the nest box, when we have just transplanted the hive colony to the nest box when the "first stage exit" is provided for the use of the swarm in and out, when the bee colony develops to a certain extent, it can be used from the "second inlet and outlet", the diameter of the hole at the first outlet is 2cm, and the second exit is 5cm, because the exit is small when it is just transplanted, to prevent wild rats from entering the endangered bee colony, and when the bee colony grows and can defend the homeland, it becomes the first and second outlets used at the same time. At this time, the inflow and outflow of worker bees is also very large, and the export must be expanded to meet the needs of the bee colony.
So after designing, let's see the actual nest box picture and how to use it:
First, the soft soil, which does not contain large stones, is packed in the nest box, filled, and a groove is dug in the center, and the size can be slightly larger to store the bee cake. As shown in the figure:
Second, fix the bee cake to the top wooden board, or crossbar, as shown in the figure:
Third, the swarm can be put into the nest box through the online loan, and the final effect is as shown
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 4 Design structure and production method of three nesting boxes with high nesting rate</h2>
Nesting box 1:
Nesting box two:
Nesting box three:
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 5 Intelligent Hive Design</h2>
Catch a Bee Cage:
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 6 Recommended Introduction to High-Yielding Wasps</h2>
Golden Ring Wasp
Aliases: Ground King Bee, Ground Dragon Bee, Red-headed Bee, Great Black Bee, Great Earth Bee, Black Waist Bee, Chinese Giant Wasp.
Distribution: It lives in mountainous areas at an altitude of 1000 to 2000, with sporadic distribution of high and bottom.
Body length: Female bees are 4.8 to 5 cm long, males are 3.9 to 4.3 cm, and worker bees are 3.8 to 4.5 cm long.
Habits: The golden-ringed wasp is strong and fierce, is the world's largest wasp species, poisonous and aggressive, nesting in underground holes, earth holes, tree holes, etc.! The predation distance can reach up to 5 kilometers or more, the food is extensive, feeding on some large insects, or the larvae of other bee species, and when the bee is in full swing, it can also prey on some small animal pups and nibble on his flesh as food! He is the deserved overlord of the bee world, which is frightening! He is most dependent on some trees that secrete syrup, and he must have a syrup-secreting tree in the place, a place with a better ecology! Its wide nest method is to move the soil out of the cave door, and the hive can reach a maximum of more than 100 kilograms.
Features: The golden ring wasp species are divided into four subspecies, namely the great golden ring, the black gold ring, the red gold ring, and the golden ring.
Black-tailed wasp
Aliases: Double golden-ringed tiger-headed bee, yellow-loined bee.
Distribution: Mountainous areas with an altitude of 500 to 1500, sporadic distribution at high altitudes.
Body length: female bees 3.8 to 4.4 cm, males 3.4 to 3.8cm worker bees 3.3 to 4.0 cm.
Habits: The black-tailed wasp nests like the golden ring, but not as fiercely as the golden ring. Some are even timid.
Features: This bee belongs to the common larger bee species, there are relatively many subspecies, the pattern and size are not the same, mainly divided into two categories, diligent black tail and lazy black tail! Lazy Blacktail Hive up to 3 kg! The black tail can reach about 20 to 30 kg.
Black Shield Wasp
Aliases: wasp, foreign devil, wasp, etc.
Distribution: Mostly distributed in the mountains at an altitude of 500 to 1500, with a little distribution at high altitude.
Body length: female bee 2.8 ~3.0 cm, male bee 1.8 ~2.5 cm, worker bee 2.1 ~2.6cm.
Habits: The south often nests in the ground cave, tree hole, the way of picking soil is different from the golden ring and other bees, his way of picking soil is to fly out of the hole for a distance after throwing away, and then go to find food, so it has something to hold back and forth, and some are difficult to find. Some nest in dense bushes in low places, and the north mainly nests on trees or rocks, and the nest is the same shape as the yellow foot, up to 10 kg or more.
Features: Golden yellow, excellent recognizable, and fast flight speed, the latest hibernating species.
Yellow-rumped wasp
Distribution: Mainly distributed in the mountains at an altitude of 500 to 1000.
Body length: female bee 3.5 to 4 cm, male bee 2.5 to 2.9 cm, worker bee 2.6 to 3.5 cm.
Habits: Nesting is the same as the Golden Ring Blacktail! But like bushy places, the nest can reach a maximum of about 10 kg.
Features: This bee is timid as a rat, most of the nests are low-flying, and S-shaped, fast.
Step by step reading
Yellow-footed wasp
Aliases: gourd bee, flower-footed wasp, concave wasp, bare-tailed wasp, yellow-footed wasp, black-breasted wasp, white-footed wasp, ink-breasted wasp, etc.
Distribution: Commonly distributed at high and low altitudes, it is the most common wasp species.
Body length: female bees 2.8 to 3.2 cm, males 2.2 to 2 .6cm, worker bees 2.0 to 2 .8cm.
Habits: The queen bee first builds a nest in the hole, and then moves to trees, grass, houses, and other places around the Dragon Boat Festival, and the hive can reach a maximum of about 40 kilograms.
Features: Yellowfoot temperament, strong adaptability, strong predatory ability, belongs to the most considerable breeding of live bees!
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 7 Efficient Wasp Mesh Bag Collection Method (Hulu Peak).</h2>
Cucurbitum bee collection method:
Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a harmful wild wasp killing technique, specifically a method of picking a wasp nest on a tree, different from the general elimination of a single wasp.
Background
[0002] The wasp is very harmful to humans and livestock, serious will cause death or disability of people or livestock, especially for raising bees is one of the biggest natural enemies of harm, for mountain bees, wasps do not remove bees difficult to survive, not to mention obtaining higher bee products, therefore, eliminate wasps, not only for the people to remove harm, but also for the breeding of bees to create a good environment, the vast majority of vespa hives built on higher branches, flying power is very strong, at any time there is a danger of stinging people. At present, the appearance of wasps endangering the safety of people's lives, they ask the firefighters for help, the officers and men of the fire brigade wear anti-chemical suits, and use the method of directly climbing the tree to pick and cancel the extinction, which is both dangerous and unsafe for the firefighters, and there are also some places where flamethrowers are used to eliminate the wasp nest, but this method is limited by the standing conditions, which is easy to cause forest fires, and the cost is also very high, and it is generally not appropriate to use, in order to explore the method of completely eliminating the wasp, the key is how to safely pick the wasp hive, For this problem, a more suitable method of the present invention is sought. This method is both safe and inexpensive.
Contents of the Invention
[0003] 本发明目的提供一种树胡蜂巢提取取的方法,实施提取取胡蜂巢的技术方案 : [0003] The object of the present invention is to provide a method of picking a tree wasp nest, implementing a technical scheme for picking a wasp nest:
(1) All adult wasps return to the nest at night ;(2) Use red light to illuminate the height of the hive from the ground and the size of the hive; according to different standing conditions and surrounding environments, whether it is easy to cause forest fires, different methods are used, if the surrounding open space is not easy to occur forest fires with fire rings, environmental conditions do not allow the use of nitrosulfact, the three methods are described as follows;
(A) Use a long-handled special fire ring tool to ignite the fire ring under the wasp nest with alcohol as fuel, let the flame seal the entire wasp nest and kill all the adult wasps on the surface, and at the same time use the sulfur lavender to kill javelins from the ring of fire and insert it into the wasp nest, kill the wasp and then use the metal mesh pocket to take off the entire nest, take its pupae and larvae to use, without kerosene, gasoline and other fuels, because it has a peculiar smell and a certain degree of toxicity after burning, so it is not conducive to the use of bee pupae and larvae ;(B) If the surrounding environment is densely forested, It is easy to cause forest fires, the nitrate sulfur lavender method is used alone, the nitrate flame lavender method is to bundle the special nitrate sulfur fumigation apparatus to the long bamboo pole to ignite, inserted into the hive or bow and arrow to ignite the special nitrate flame lavender to the wasp nest, larvae and pupa can be used as high-grade insect protein food or feed, adult wasps can be collected centrally to make medicinal liquor.
[0004] The above method can be used to completely eliminate the wasp nest, to avoid wasps stinging human animals and encroaching on domestic bees, the method is simple and reliable, low cost, high safety.
Specific embodiments
[0005] 本发明所述的胡蜂巢摘取的方法,具体实施方式如下 : [0005] The method of picking from the tree wasp nest in the present invention, the specific embodiment is as follows:
[0006] The use of red light to illuminate the hive visually determines the position and size of the hive on the tree and the height from the ground and people
The distance from the hive, (1) the surrounding environment is empty, there will be no forest fire environment, directly with a special long-handled fire ring wrapped in the ring of fire and the inner spoke wire wrapped in a cotton cloth strip, the ring of fire ignition from the bottom up buckled on the wasp nest, while using a nitrate lavender javelin from the ring of fire into the hive to be burned and lavendered, and then use a wire mesh to cover the hive pulling, so that it falls into the metal net pocket, put back on the ground for treatment ;(2) For the environment where the forest around the hive is dense and easy to cause forest fires, the sulfur lavender method is used alone , nitro sulfur lavender killing apparatus for lavender arrows or nitro sulfur lavender javelin, in the javelin head cavity filled with nitro sulfur lavender, with cotton plug to hold the nitrate sulfur lavender mixture of sulfur and black gunpowder, when charging should be loose otherwise the javelin head is easy to burst. And connect the fuse at the bottom of the javelin, after lighting it, use the long-handled bamboo pole to insert the lavender javelin directly into the hive, relying on the flame and smoke of the sulfur lavender to burn the adult bees in the hive to death; so that the wasps lose the ability to fly, use the metal mesh pocket to pull the hive from the entire hive from the tree board, the larvae and pupae can be used as high-grade insect protein food or feed, and the adult wasps are burned or burned with boiling water before they are revived. If artificial rearing and utilization are required, the hive is removed and placed in a special feeding cage to awaken it naturally and be artificially fed. Adult bees can be used to make medicinal liquors that can be used to treat rheumatism and internal rheumatic osteoarthropathy.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 8 Efficient Wasp Cage Collection Method (Soil Wasp).</h2>
Collection of Earth Bees:
Underground wasps include large wasps that nest underground (such as black-tailed wasps, underground wasps, etc.) that belong to the order Hymenopteraeidae. Its body length is 30 ~ 40mm, the mouthparts are chewy, very aggressive, it is a carnivorous insect, and it is also the largest and most toxic wasp in the world. Nests are built underground during the breeding season, and they build beehives larger than basketballs. They live a well-defined community life, the bee colony consists of queen bees, worker bees, male bees, the queen is mainly responsible for laying eggs, worker bees are responsible for gathering food, raising offspring and building, cleaning, guarding the hive, etc., while the male is responsible for mating with the adolescent queen. Every spring, the queen bee first looks for a suitable place to build a nest and lays eggs, until the first batch of worker bees are feathered, the worker bees gradually exercise their functions, and then the queen bees lay eggs full-time. A swarm of wasps reach their strongest strength near October each year (this is the period when they are most harmful to bees, and when they have the most pupae and adult insects in their nests), after which the colonies breed many new queens, who leave the hive after mating and look for a suitable place to overwinter and become the queen of the second year. Underground wasps are natural enemies of bees. Due to the size and ferocity of the underground wasps, the bees could not fight them. Underground wasps can use the jaws on the mouthparts to bite the nest door of the bee hive, enter the bee hive to bite the adult bees, and then steal all the honey and larvae in the honey nest, resulting in the bee colony being completely destroyed Underground wasps often attacking other bee colonies on the same bee farm after eliminating a group of bees. Therefore, once a bee farm is attacked by underground wasps, if it is not treated in time and effectively, it will cause huge economic losses to the beekeepers who keep bees. And the underground wasp sometimes attacks people, once people are stung by it, the light swelling, severe pain unbearable for more than a month to recover, heavy can lead to human limb mutilation or even death. The nutritional value of the underground wasp pupa is extremely high, rich in protein and fat, its body protein content accounts for about 81% of the body weight, and the current price on the market is as high as 300 yuan / kg. Underground vespa taste sweet and spicy, warm, mainly for the treatment of rheumatism and pain. Adult wasp worms can be used to soak wasp wine, wasp wine to dispel rheumatism, treat acute and chronic rheumatism, rheumatoid arthritis. Dew hive has the effect of dispelling wind and insect repellent, reducing swelling and detoxification, etc., and is mainly used for the treatment of epilepsy, epilepsy, boiling poison, toothache, breast pain, stubborn ringworm, etc.; Vespa venom can be used to treat inflammation, as well as anti-cancer and anti-radiation effects.
In summary, although the underground vespa is harmful to the beekeeping industry and sometimes harms people, it preys on a variety of agricultural and forestry pests: such as green vegetable insects, locusts, aphids, leafhoppers, cotton bollworms, corn borers, red bollworms and other pests, so it is a defective beneficial insect. It is also an important member of the biosphere and has indirect economic value for humans. Five kilometers away from the bee farm and without affecting people's normal life, if the method of artificial collection and rearing of underground vespa is explored, it can not only bring delicious bee pupae to humans, but also bring economic benefits to mountainous areas and maintain ecological balance; it can also be used to prey on agricultural and forestry pests and produce green agricultural products.
At present, the method of eliminating or catching underground wasps by beekeepers has many limitations, such as using brooms, badminton rackets and other tools to pounce on the underground wasps that come to harm bees; or after catching the underground wasps alive, let them fly back to the nest after their bodies are covered with powdery chronic pesticides, in order to achieve the purpose of poisoning more other individuals in the same nest, both of which can only be a symptom, not a cure, can not achieve the purpose of completely eradicating their harm to bees, and also cause valuable waste of adult wasps, pupae and nests. Object of the present invention is to provide a new underground wasp collection method with the advantages of simple operation, safety and reliability and thorough collection in response to the above needs, when the local wasp attacks the bees or affects people's normal life, it can be thoroughly collected and utilized.
The underground wasp collection method, the method is first to carry out underground wasp foraging and tracking, and then according to the size of the wasp colony determined by the tracking, determine the underground wasp colony collection during the day or night; the method steps of underground vespa search and tracking are: search for the whereabouts of the underground wasp in the bee farm or on the Qinggang tree; when the underground wasp is found, the beef is sandwiched on a bamboo pole about 2 meters long, the beef is extended to the underground wasp, and the local lower wasp smells the fishy smell of the beef when actively feeding, Immediately hang a wasp tracking mark between its abdomen and chest, with the help of telescopes, walkie-talkies multi-person tracking, to find its living breeding place, that is, the underground wasp nest, when it is determined that the underground wasp swarm is not very strong, the method of collecting the underground wasp nest during the day is: two people cooperate, each person wears a sting suit, one of them uses an insect net to catch adult insects that fly back to the nest; the other person uses the mouth of the golden ring wasp daytime collector to quickly aim at the opening of his nest, and then uses one to be about 30 years longer than the collector One end of the centimeter thin wire, from the bottom center of the collector into and extended to the wasp nest opening at the mouth of the collector, gently vibrate with your hand at the other end of the thin wire, so that the adult bees with the ability to attack in the nest are poured out to protect their nest, so that the adult worms enter the collector, quickly cover the mouth of the collector and rotate firmly, immediately ignite the lead of the nitrosulfone javelin and insert it into the hole of the wasp nest, and then block the hole with plastic film, after 3-5 minutes, dig the hole to expose its nest, Thicker rubber or leather gloves are worn to collect adult wasp worms into transport bottles, while the wasp's nest spleen is packed into pre-prepared iron or plastic buckets.
When determining that the underground wasp colony is stronger, the method steps for collecting the underground vespa nest at night are: after all the adult worms return to the nest in the evening, use the bee colony to manage the headlamp lighting at night, in the case of not disturbing the wasp, use the branch shear to remove the weeds at the mouth of the hole, align the mouth of the golden ring vespa night collector at the opening of the underground wasp nest, connect the power supply of the bee night collector to make the LED white light inside it glow, and at the same time vigorously knock on the stones or dirt near the cave entrance. After the mouth of the collector is covered, the lead of the nitrosulfum fumigation javelin is ignited or inserted into the hole of the vespa nest with ether cotton balls, and the hole is blocked with plastic film, and after 3-5 minutes, the hole is dug to expose the nest, and the adult wasp is collected into the transport bottle by wearing thick rubber gloves or leather gloves, and the wasp nest spleen is loaded into the iron or plastic bucket prepared in advance.
The materials and tools used in this method include potassium nitrate, sulfur, charcoal, leads, paper, fine linen wire, beef, bamboo poles, red LED headlamps, hand saws, plastic buckets, twickers, homemade muskets, lighters, rubber gloves, mesh nets, hoes, black plastic film, forceps, perforating plastic bottles, rechargeable flashlights, telescopes, walkie-talkies, glass tube syringes, chlorpheniramine, adrenaline injection and stinging suits.
When determining that the underground wasp colony is stronger, the method steps for collecting the underground vespa nest at night are: after the adult worms are returned to the nest in the evening, use the bee colony to manage the headlamp lighting at night, in the case of not disturbing the wasp, use the branches to remove the weeds at the mouth of the hole, align the mouth of the golden ring vespa night collector at the opening of the underground wasp nest, connect the power supply of the bee night collector to make the LED white light inside it shine, and at the same time vigorously knock on the stone or dirt near the cave entrance. After the mouth of the collector is covered, the lead of the nitrosulfum fumigation javelin is ignited or inserted into the hole of the vespa nest with ether cotton balls, and the hole is blocked with plastic film, and after 3-5 minutes, the hole is dug to expose the nest, and the adult wasp is collected into the transport bottle by wearing thick rubber gloves or leather gloves, and the wasp nest spleen is loaded into the iron or plastic bucket prepared in advance.
The following method steps of the present invention are further described in conjunction with the specific collection process:
1. First of all, it is equipped with the following materials and tools
Potassium nitrate, sulfur, charcoal, leads, paper, fine linen wire, beef, bamboo poles (about 2 meters long), red LED headlamps, hand saws, plastic buckets, prunes, homemade muskets, lighters, rubber gloves, noodle nets (homemade and beekeeping noodle nets are very different), hoes, black plastic film, forceps, perforated plastic bottles, rechargeable flashlights, telescopes, walkie-talkies, glass tube syringes (for detoxification when stung by underground wasps), chlorpheniramine, adrenaline injection, stinging suits (utility model patent has been applied).
2. Experimental tool production and drug preparation
1) Make a nitramine fumigation javelin
With a thick iron pipe of 80 to 100 cm long and a diameter of about 2 cm, cut one end into a 45-degree wedge, block the iron pipe at 25 to 30 cm from the end, and then drill a hole with a diameter of about 1 mm near the wedge end about 1 cm from the blocked place (for inserting leads and facilitating ignition).
2) Smoking drugs: potassium nitrate: charcoal powder: sulfur powder = 3 : 1 : 1 mix evenly and set aside in proportion
3. Underground vespa search and track
In the summer, the whereabouts of underground vespas can be found in bee farms or on green trees (underground vespas often collect their sap); when underground vespas are found, because they are carnivorous insects and are greedy, they clip beef (beef is more difficult to tear and bite than other meats) on a bamboo pole about 2 meters long, stretch the beef to the underground wasps, and the local wasps will take the initiative to eat when they smell the fishy smell of beef. It is not very alert at this point; it immediately hangs a wasp tracking mark (a patented product) between its abdomen and chest; because it collects food, it will return directly to the underground wasp nest to feed its larvae. Along the path of its flight, with the help of telescopes, walkie-talkies and other tools to cooperate with tracking, you can find its life
Breeding site - underground wasp nest. The population of underground wasps is stronger, and it is determined to collect them at night.
4. Collection of underground vespa nests
According to the situation of the nest reconnaissance during the day, after waiting until the evening to let all its adult insects return to the nest, take the above tools, use the bee colony night management headlamp (has obtained a utility model patent) headlamp to illuminate near the underground wasp nest, in the case of not disturbing the wasp flying, use the branch scissors to remove the weeds at the mouth of the hole, the mouth of the golden ring vespa night collector is aimed at the opening of the underground wasp nest, and connect the power supply of the bee night collector to make the LED white light inside it glow, because the wasp is prone to white light, Coupled with the silver glowing plastic film outside the night collector to return to the white light, so that the night collector inside as daytime, at the same time hard to knock the stone or dirt near the mouth of the cave, so that the underground wasp is stimulated and instinctively guard the nest, because the cave entrance has a white light, so that most of the aggressive adult worms are self-casting net into the night collector, the same cover of the mouth of the collector, the same under the illumination of the bee colony night management headlamp, Similarly, the lead of the nitrosulfon smouldering javelin is ignited and inserted into the opening of the wasp nest (or ether cotton ball), and then the opening of the hole is blocked with plastic film, after 3-5 minutes, the hole is dug to expose the nest, and the adult wasp is collected into the transport bottle with thicker rubber gloves or leather gloves, and the wasp nest spleen is loaded into a prepared iron pass or plastic bucket.
After many repeated trials, it can be determined that the above method has the following advantages: the tool is simple, easy to operate, safe and reliable and thoroughly collected, and the wasp adult, pupae and nest are not toxic. It compensates for the limitations of traditional methods and achieves a more ideal and perfect effect.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 9 Instructions and methods of the whole process of mating of the nine quasi-queen bees</h2>
Mating process for a prospective queen bee:
Mating conditions:
1. Quasi-queen bees and male bees during the estrus period;
2, good light transmittance of the mating greenhouse, it is best to control the artificial temperature of the greenhouse, the temperature reaches between 22-25 degrees Celsius;
3. Adequate feeding
The process of mating:
After we collected the queen-to-bees, we put the collected queen-to-bee in the mating shed. After 4-6 days of artificial feeding, the queen begins to have the intention of mating and begins to mate. When mating, temperature control is best between 22-25 degrees Celsius. In order to make the mating process more efficient, we separate the prospective queen and male bees in advance, and we put 5 to 10 male bees into the quasi-queen bee shed at a time to mate. Let the male bee automatically look for the queen in heat to mate, and the male bee knows which queen bee is in heat, a shot of a quasi, if the artificial permission can be artificially assisted in mating, that is: when the male bee and the female bee tail are connected together, we gently pinch the queen with our hands, and use a small wooden strip to put it in the mouth of the queen bee, let it bite the wooden strip, so as not to bite the male bee, resulting in unsmooth mating, when each pair of male and female bees is completed, be sure to put the mating queen in a separate cage to feed, but also dispose of the male bee in time, Generally we are used to brew wine, killing two birds with one stone, and feeding according to the feeding method after mating is completed.
Special note: When we put the male wind in the quasi-queen bee shed, the male summit automatically looks for the estrus of the queen bee to mate, and when the male peak and the tail of the queen bee are connected, we try to assist the mating of the male and female as much as possible, so that there is enough time for mating. Improve the quality of mating, the quality of mating has a great impact on the amount of eggs laid by the queen bee in the coming year, that is, we usually see, some honeycombs are very strong, and some honeycombs are not strong, and even some honeycombs will all die. This will cause great losses to our breeding efficiency. Mark the queen bee that has mated, or feed them in isolation so that it is not impossible to distinguish whether they have mated or not.
Artificially assisted mating queen as shown in the figure:
<h2 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 10 Prewintering Feeding Techniques for Queen Bees</h2>
Queen bee feeding before wintering:
Cold weather for the queen bee overwintering: About 10 days before wintering, it should be provided with about 50% honey (water: honey = 50:50) or 40% glucose for a week to improve wintering survival. Do not feed other foods and gradually reduce the amount before wintering for two weeks. When the first queen bee lies quietly and does not take food, it is a sign that the queen bee is ready to spend the winter, but at night, all the queen bees are put into the winter barrel, and the queen who does not overwinter will come out of the barrel the next day, repeatedly put into the wintering bucket several times to assist the queen bee to survive the winter, when more than half of the queen bees are overwintering normally, the queen bees who have not read normally are concentrated in another winter bucket to force the winter.
Bees like to overwinter in dead trees or tree holes with thick cork in the sunny and leeward zone, and some will also hide in the grass or thicker hay, so it is also necessary to artificially create some wasps to overwinter.
Wherever there is space around the wintering bucket, mix the surrounding exits with grain grass ash and cow dung, leaving only the entrance of the queen bee. Open the upper four corners around the feeding net and feed with honey and well water at 1:3 honey, respectively.
The material of the wintering bucket is winter melon tree and green bar tree, the winter melon tree is used for gourd bees to overwinter better, and the green bar tree is used to make soil bees or golden bad is better.
Special instructions:
Because the queen bee will not eat after entering the winter state, but in the process of wintering still needs energy supplementation, which is particularly important, so try to give enough food before wintering, especially honey water, the concentration of 50%, the queen bee in the case of eating and drinking enough to survive the winter is improved.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 11 Wintering Methods with High Survival Rates</h2>
Overwintering methods with high survival rates:
The queen bee winter, as the name suggests, is to let the queen of bees wake up after the winter safely, and provide us with bee breeding, nesting, laying eggs, and cultivating the first bee colonies in the coming year. This is why we keep the queen bee safe for the winter.
So how do we ensure that the queen bee survives the winter safely? There are five main determinants, namely:
Feeding before wintering, temperature and humidity control of wintering sheds, design of wintering barrels, control of third-party pests, disease control, etc., let's analyze the reasons for these aspects and the matters to be paid attention to.
Feeding before wintering: Feeding before wintering is very important, please follow this tutorial "Feeding Before Wintering";
Wintering shed temperature and humidity control: the cage also needs to be placed in the temperature, hygrometer and equipped with an observation window, the bottom of the cage is placed with a thickness of 3-5 cm, the length of 10-15 cm of autoclaved straw bundles, and a small sponge is placed in a corner, the sponge is connected to the food supply catheter, and the surrounding is covered with straw 3-4 cm, and the covered straw needs to be exposed to the sun, dew wet treatment, and it is advisable to feel soft and not wet by hand. Supply about 300 ml of 40% honey, at 5-8 drops per minute, for 3 hours at noon every day. Maintain a relative humidity of 55-65% in the wire cage. If the relative humidity is below 55%, water can be sprayed appropriately on the surface of the covered straw when there is sunlight. If the humidity is higher than 65%, the thickness of the covered straw can be appropriately reduced under sufficient sunlight, and the sunlight can be irradiated for 3-5 hours to reduce the humidity, and the temperature is maintained at 5-10 degrees. A week after the end of the frost period, a small amount of food (30% of honey or artificially prepared wasp food can be provided) for 3-5 days, and then remove 20% of the covered straw from one direction every day, open the wire cage after 4-5 days to check, if the adult queen bee reaches more than 50% (worker bees and few surviving are normal), indicating that the artificial overwintering is successful, if the adult queen is only less than 20%, indicating that the artificial overwintering failure, the main reason is that the temperature, humidity is too high or too low may cause artificial wintering failure.
The design of the wintering bucket: The design of the wintering bucket is particularly important, to achieve both insulation, ventilation, prevention and control of rats and ants. Follow the chapter of "Two Winter Box Design Structures and Production Methods" of this tutorial to design;
Prevention and control of third-party pests: as long as the safety of wintering sheds and wintering boxes is ensured, rats, ants, etc. can be completely avoided;
Disease prevention: A, black pupa disease is mainly manifested as: a large number of deaths in the middle of the larvae, black hair odor is removed by adult insects outside the nest, this disease occurs more often in 8-9 months, if not treated in time will often cause no harvest of bee pupae particles, the cause of the disease is mostly caused by food contamination, once the disease should first immediately disinfect the food bottle, catheter, sponge, can be used 75% ethanol soaked for 1 hour, while checking whether the prepared food appears turbid, precipitation, gas production and other deterioration, if the food deterioration is not used. In addition, before the newly prepared food is filtered, 10 ml of 25% ethanol oxytetracycline solution is added per kilogram (take 0.25 grams of oxytetracycline 10 tablets and finely grind it, soak it in 10 ml of 90% ethanol for 15 minutes, stir it well), and then add 30% of the liquid amount of honey, filter and supply, and stop the drug for one week continuously. Or soak 50 grams of herbs, grass fruits, mint, 500 ml of cold water for 30 minutes, heat until boiling, take the liquid and add an equal amount of honey to filter, and then add 500 ml of prepared vespa food for its feeding, continuous use for one week. This disease should be noted to distinguish from pesticide poisoning: pesticide poisoning has a large number of adult worms die in front of or around the nest, and black pupae do not damage adult worms, so no adults die. In addition, excessive temperature in the hive can also lead to black pupa disease, so it is necessary to pay attention to maintaining proper shade and ventilation of the hive. B, diarrhea disease: the disease occurs in adult worms, its symptoms see adult insects flying powerlessly, there are wasps crawling on the ground around the nest, and it can be seen that the wasp tail is connected by filamentous objects, which are mostly caused by the high content of fat and protein in food, generally do not need to take medication, subtract milk when preparing food, if there is a large number of wasps crawling on the ground, you can add 30% hawthorn and pineapple liquid 200 ml per kilogram when preparing food (take hawthorn, pineapple, and herbs each 50 grams and add 300 ml of water to soak for 20 minutes, Heat to a slight boil for 5 minutes and then take the liquid, add an equal amount of honey or glucose to filter
Yes), use continuously for one week. Note; if any medication is added to the prepared wasp food, the wasp will refuse to feed without honey or glucose.
<h2 class = "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 12 Management and Feeding of The Queen Bee at the End of the Wintering</h2>
Queen bee feeding after winter:
After the queen bee winter, after two or three months of sleep, there is no food during the period, but it does not mean that the physical energy is not consumed, but the energy stored before the winter is almost consumed, and only a little energy is left to save life, so the abnormal weakness of the body is very critical during this period. If it is not handled properly, the entire army will be destroyed, and the gain will not be worth the loss. To this end, our years of treatment experience can effectively protect the queen bee at the end of the winter.
First, temperature differences are most likely to lead to the death of the queen bee:
We generally put the winter barrel in the winter greenhouse for winter, then the temperature in the greenhouse and the temperature in the winter barrel have a certain gap, generally a difference of 2 to 4 degrees, although the temperature difference is very small, but this is fatal to the queen bee who has just passed the winter, how to deal with it? Some beekeepers, after seeing the high temperature, opened the winter bucket to see that the queen bees inside were alive, and then they were released to start feeding, but within an hour, the good queen bees suddenly stopped moving, which was dead. So we can't think of the queen bee releasing the winter bucket. What we need to do is to put the honey water (concentration of 40-50%), mountain spring water, placed at the exit of the winter bucket, let the awakened queen bee ask the taste to come out naturally to eat honey, and when it is full, it will continue to return to the winter bucket to sleep, and about three times back and forth can fully adapt to the outside temperature, at this time the queen bee no longer returns to the winter bucket, but freely flying in the winter greenhouse, looking for food. Indicates a complete awakening from winter.
Second, improper feeding can easily lead to the death of the queen bee:
In addition to providing high purity honey water (concentration of 40-50%), we also need to provide insect food with high protein content, such as locust belly, scarab beetle, crickets, etc. The stomach part needs to be artificially torn apart, otherwise the queen bee will not move, there will be starvation, and after feeding for a day or two, the queen bee's physical strength will return to normal.
Third, do a good job in virus defense:
For the weak queen bee, at this time, we should pay the most attention to dietary hygiene, so the water, honey, and insects we provide to them must be fresh, otherwise the queen will die after infection, or be weak, and then affect the nesting and egg laying.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 13 King Training Technique</h2>
The concept of practicing kings
The queen bee slowly crawls out of the wintering room, slowly eats, and then crawls back to the wintering room to become a wintering condition after eating, so that after about 10 days of exercise, the physiological indicators of the queen bee have all lifted the wintering condition, becoming a queen bee that can fly and prey, we call this process the queen of the bee.
How to practice kings
The queen bee who overwinters indoors in the wintering greenhouse, after several months of non-eating in December, January and mid-February, generally begins to gradually relieve the wintering situation in mid-to-late February. When the queen bee is observed to have the behavior of climbing out of the wintering room, immediately put wild honey and mountain spring water near the wintering room, the queen bee will climb into the wintering room after eating honey and mountain spring water, so repeat three times, began to fly in the wintering greenhouse, this completely lifted the behavior of the wintering condition, place apples, night bees, bees, young locusts and other small insects near the wintering room, after observing the queen bee prey on small insects and eating apples, the queen bee carefully moved into the nesting room, and then moved the nesting room into the nesting greenhouse.
The key to this process is to accurately determine whether the queen bee has completely lifted the overwintering situation, make full use of the shade net to try to practice the queen bee in the light and 22-25 environment, the time to practice the queen bee is about 5 days, and the time is too long to affect the quality of the queen bee.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 14 How to Get Wasps to Start Nesting</h2>
Induce Hu Feng to nest
Induce the wintering queen to build the first cake nest, lay the first batch of eggs, breed the first batch of professional bees: the trained queen bee from the hole in the syringe into the nesting room, the first and second days through the syringe on the nesting room to put honey, mountain spring water, the third and fourth days to increase the small bees, night bees, the fifth and sixth days to increase the young locusts, flies and other small insects, the larger the amount of food the queen bee nesting and laying eggs faster, the process can not be stingy, while cleaning the syringe every two days. When the queen bee is observed to take the bark, it means that the queen bee begins to build a nest, when the queen of bees eats the food into a ball and carries it into the nesting room, indicating that the queen bee lays eggs and the larvae begin to develop, according to the speed at which the queen carries the food into the nesting room, the development of the larvae can be judged, from the queen to take the bark to the first small professional bee feathered, the fastest takes about 40 days.
The material for the queen bee nest is fir bark, bubble fir bark and other easily ground and bonded bark, the queen bee nest does not need pulp, the pulp is mainly wild queen bee or professional bee used to feed the food of the young larvae.
The key to this process is to provide the queen bee with enough food to meet the queen's food needs as much as possible; the nesting material must be spongy and soaked, and the dead wood and bark with a certain humidity are easy to bite.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 15 Nesting Materials Detailed Explanation and Artificial Processing of Nesting Materials</h2>
Nesting materials for vespas
Wake up, practice the king, you can directly put it into a nest barrel, a wooden box, I am talking about the technology of the catamaran box here. After the queen bee enters the barrel, the first few days are basically flying around, in and out of the barrel, 7 to 10 days later to start to make a nest, most of the queen bees to do the nest is done in the middle of the horizontal gear, there are a few queen bees will do in the activity area, the queen bee nest material is mostly rotten wood, you can also use fir bark. The bark is not as good as the rotting tree. After seeing the queen bee nibbling on the rotting tree, also pay attention to check, '(Whether the queen bee has made the rotting tree into a ball row.' Carry it into the nest, if you see the queen bee nibbling on the rotten tree, and not making a ball row. Just nibbling, you have to pay attention to it, the rotten tree it gnaws on must fall everywhere, so you must change the rotten tree immediately. Because it can't chew on the rotten tree, it can't be wrapped up, it hasn't been carried into the nest, i) in addition, every morning you have to clean the syringe fed honey and clean up the dead who have not eaten and played. Also note that if there are ants in the nest, the queen bee will keep fanning the arm, at this time you must kill the ants, otherwise the ants will eat the eggs laid by the queen bee. After making the nest, the queen bee is afraid of shock and tries not to open it to see. If the queen bee who is making a nest is released by you, even if you catch it and put it in, it will not continue to make the nest, and it may continue to do it after 20 days. Most are not going to do it.
Artificial nesting materials
<h2 class = "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 16 Primary Colony Breeding</h2>
Induce working bees to feed and breed primary bee colonies:
After the first professional bee feathers are born, it can increase dragonflies, crickets, scarab beetles, locusts, frog meat, bird meat and other foods with protein nutrients that are easy to find by the people in mountainous areas, as well as sugary and vitamin-containing foods such as glycosuction and apples. Due to the action of instinctive behavior, the new job bee will actively eat food, bite the bark, and lick and suck the soil inside the nesting room to obtain trace elements, and over time, the new job bee will continue to increase. When it is observed that the new job bee has been responsible for feeding the larvae and taking the nest material to build a new nest for several days, the queen bee no longer comes out to eat and nest materials, indicating that the queen bee began to lay eggs full-time, at this time there are generally about 5 small worker bees, such a swarm is called the primary swarm.
The key to this process is to artificially tear apart insects such as scarab beetles and locusts, and the small professional bees will prey on them, while ensuring the supply of honey and mountain spring water; the time of this process is generally about 7 days, not too long, and the standard syringe must be clean.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 17 Technical Instructions and Methods of Marrying a King of Earth Bees</h2>
How to marry a king wasp:
Our common earth bees are red bride, big black, golden ring, black tail, etc., but also our preferred breed, first of all, let's understand the concept of wasp marrying the king, the queen refers to the transplantation of a queen bee into the nest of another nest of bees, instead of another queen of bees. Wasps have different growth periods and different ways to marry kings, so let's introduce several methods of marrying kings in different periods.
I. The Single King Period:
(1) Lost king state: After the queen bee builds a nest, for some reason, the queen bee dies or escapes, which is called the kingless. This method of marrying the king is very simple, directly put the new queen bee and trap it, we should pay attention to observe whether the king is willing to take over the honeycomb when we access the new king, if there is no willingness to take over within 7 days, then it is necessary to replace another new king in time, generally at most three times can be successful.
(2) Weak king state: After the queen bee nests, it is found to be unhealthy and called a weak king. To replace the weak king, the weak king should be removed from the hive and then the new king should be placed in the hive. If the king is not taken out first and directly put into the new king, the weak king will swear to die to defend the homeland and the new king desperately, resulting in both defeats and injuries, and even the death of the new king, which is more than worth the loss.
Second, the initial heyday of the worker bee:
The initial heyday of the worker bee refers to the period when the vespa already has a working bee, but the number is not very large. At this time, if you find a lost king or a weak king, you need to marry the king. The correct way to marry the king is as follows: first catch the professional bee and the weak king out of the hive, put the new king in the hive for 30 minutes (the purpose is to give the new king enough time to "declare territorial sovereignty"), and then put the professional bee into the hive. Note: (1) If the distance between the moving hives is too large, the worker bees will think that it is not their original home and will flee one after another; (2) If all the worker bees are not taken out and directly placed into the new queen, the worker bees will rise up and attack and kill the new queen alive.
III. Collection Period:
The collection period refers to the period when the wasp can be collected, and this period has the best effect of marrying the king. The method is as follows: under the premise of not harming the worker bee, after collecting a large nest of wasps and the worker bee that the queen is about to "complete the mission", and then transplanting a small nest of wasps of the same species that are still in the vigorous reproductive period to the original position of the nest of wasps that have been collected, and then all the staff bees that will be taken will be released back. This practice works very well, and the newly transplanted wasp will grow rapidly with the help of the previous nest of professional bees.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 18 Technical Instructions for Marrying a King of gourd bees and how to marry a king</h2>
How to marry a gourd bee:
Our common gourd bees have yellow feet, seven miles, etc., but also our preferred breeds of breeding, first of all, let's understand the concept of the bee of the gourd bee, the king of marriage refers to the transplantation of a queen bee into the nest of another nest of bees, instead of another nest of queen bees. Wasps have different growth periods, there are different ways to marry the king, we will introduce several different periods of the marriage method, here we only introduce the yellow-footed gourd bee marriage method, the seven miles of marriage is slightly different, we will explain in another chapter alone.
3. Wasp collection period:
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 19 Technical Instructions and Methods of Marrying a King in Seven Miles</h2>
Seven Miles, the killer bee of the venomous world. Although small, it is fierce and the bee colony develops rapidly. There are many professional bees. Attack people in droves. One of the seven fierceness: If your anti-bee suit has not been washed for seven miles, and the clothes have the smell of seven miles of venom, be prepared to wear another nest of seven miles. During the most exuberant period of the Seven Kingdoms, it is generally not before there is no King Cake. Within 400 meters of the Seven Mile Nest. Seven Miles will attack you in groups sniffing your clothes. I have suffered this loss myself. At first, it was one or two, thinking that they were looking for food in the wild, and finally more and more. It was besieged by twenty or thirty seven-mile. Finally, it is to flee into the wilderness. Seven Mile Fierce Second: Spray poison is the most severe, if there is no eye protection measure to engage in Seven Mile, you will cover your eyes 100% and roll underground. Seven Miles fierce three: As long as the tree is shaken, hundreds of thousands of people will fly down with the trunk to attack you. Leave you with nowhere to escape. Unlike the gourd, climbing the tree has no reaction at all, and the appearance of the seven miles is similar to the gourd hive, and many beekeepers mistakenly think that it is a gourd and go up the tree to take the honeycomb. In the end, the loss is lost. Qili likes to live on tall trees. And the leaves around the hive are gnawed, and after the bee colony is strong, the entrance and exit become a bull hole. The gourd does not gnaw on the leaves, and the opening of the hole is round.
The King of the Seven Kingdoms. Big ass, slow flight, the queen bee is born not to build a nest, does not eat meat, in fact, can not blame people lazy, that flying must try to flap wings to not fall off the figure how to nibble the bark to build a nest breeding bee. During the nesting period of other queen bees in the wild, the first target of the Seven Mile King is the gourd bee, the gourd is small and good for bullying, followed by the chestnut bee. Pachyderm wasp. The Seven Mile King's ability to find the nests of other queen bees is like the lazy black tail looking for grass bees to carry bees pupae. Born to be very good at finding. When the Seven Mile King found the nest of the gourd single king, it was the best time to occupy the nest, which was bigger than the gourd. Under normal circumstances, it can successfully occupy the nest, but there are exceptions, and when encountering a fierce gourd, it is necessary to break the net with the dead fish of the seven-mile fish. There are also those who lead to the final two defeats. There are also some fierce Seven Mile Kings who find the gourd nest of the retired bee, and in the end, some of them succeed in occupying the nest, and some of them are killed. Qili was very clever, found the gourd nest, it did not hesitate to climb up, and in the most friendly way, and the gourd king touched the tentacles to show that he was not hostile. It does not kill the gourd queen. (When I married the king, I saw with my own eyes that as long as the gourd bee king did not attack the Seven Mile King, the Seven Mile King would not take the initiative to attack the Gourd King no matter what.) Because the Seven Mile Heart machine is too heavy, there is a reason why the gourd queen's living mouth is left. Some of the timid gourd queens couldn't do anything, and they couldn't beat them. I had to accept living with this guy who was bigger than himself. The gourd king still builds nests and breeds bees every day. The King of the Seven Mile stayed in the nest and did not leave the nest, and his mouth had to be fed by the Gourd King. And it's particularly resistant to hunger. After the gourd is out of the job bee. The King of the Seven Kingdoms laid his eggs in it. After the gourd bees reach a certain number, there are about ten or so. The gourd queen no longer went out to eat. Next, there is the death date of the gourd queen. (I artificially married the king for several nests of seven miles, around ten worker bees, and the gourd queen died.) Seven mile will not hesitate to kill the gourd bee queen, lead the gourd bee swarm, and then the gourd professional bee will fight the world for the seven mile king, and when the seven mile professional bee is feathered, the gourd professional bee will coexist peacefully with the seven mile professional bee. The Seven Mile King would not kill the Gourd Worker Bee. The lifespan of hesitant worker bees is generally tens of days. After the death of the gourd queen, the nest was full of the larvae of the seven king. There will be fewer and fewer gourd worker bees, and there will be more and more seven mile worker bees. It eventually developed into the standard seven-mile group. I have been in contact with Qili since I was a child, and I have not found that any of the Qili Kings have built their own nests. In my eyes, the Seven Mile King is a parasite with a deep heart.
Artificial marriage to the king of qili, it is best to marry when the working bee just came out, you can pinch the gourd queen. Put the Seven Mile King into the gourd nest. The Nenn bee does not attack the Seven Mile King. Most of the Seven Mile Kings have this natural habit of not going when they see the nest. After a few more days of artificial feeding, the worker bees can go out to work. What followed was the natural development into the Seven Mile Group. You can also marry when the gourd is a single king, first catch the gourd queen and let the seven kings stay in the nest for an hour or so. After the Seven Mile King has a territorial consciousness, he will release the gourd queen back to the nest. But there are risks, and some will fight. And some of them will live in harmony. It is also possible to develop into dozens of professional bees in the gourd, at least two cakes of the standard group of beehives, the gourd old professional bee, the queen bee, and a layer of bee cakes, leave the gourd to continue to develop, and leave the seven kings and the tender bees, and another bee cake for the seven miles. There are too many old job bees to marry seven miles, and I have tried various methods to spray wine. Smoke, etc. The chances of the Worker Bee waking up and killing the Seven Mile King were high. However, I generally do not use this approach.
As for the marriage method of other queen bees. For example, the big black, red bride, and golden ring king do not build a nest, and can marry ma li. Thick skin, etc. Generally take out of the job bee remarriage. A queen bee who is a worker is not wanted. Under normal circumstances, the single king married to the queen bee will not feed pupae and nest, but will eat the covered pupae and destroy the nest. After marrying a bee, the queen bee is only responsible for laying eggs. Fed by professional bees. Finally, the dynasty changed. The most important thing is to let the queen bee and the professional bee live in harmony. In order to ensure the safety of the queen bee, the old professional bees generally recommend not to be the best, but there are successes, and the world is full of surprises. In general, marrying a king is risky. There is a sacrifice to get. Success rates are not 100% guaranteed. The purpose of marrying the king is to make a home for the queen bee who does not build a nest. The premise is that no nesting bee species are more productive than nesting bee species. The red bride marries big black, chestnut, thick skin. Big black marrying golden ring, chestnut, thick skin, golden ring marrying chestnut, thick skin, etc.
<h2 class = "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 20 Primary Bee Colony Wild Training</h2>
Junior Swarm Field Training:
First of all, I will first understand the cultivation of primary bee colonies, after the first professional bee feathers out, you can increase the placement of frog meat, beef, dragonflies, crickets, scarab beetles, locusts and other protein-containing nutrient foods that are easy to find by ordinary people in mountainous areas, as well as sugary and vitamin-containing foods such as glycosuclidean water and apples, due to the role of instinctive behavior, the new job bees actively eat these foods, bite the bark, and lick and suck the soil inside the nesting room to obtain trace elements. With the passage of time, the number of new job bees continues to increase, when it is observed that the new job bees are responsible for feeding the larvae and building new hives, the queen bee no longer comes out to eat and nest materials, indicating that the queen bee began to lay eggs full-time, at this time there are generally about 5 small staff bees, such a colony is called the primary bee colony.
The key to this process is to artificially tear apart insects such as scarab beetles and locusts, and the small professional bees will prey on them, while ensuring the supply of honey and mountain spring water; the time of this process is generally about 12 days, not too long, and the standard syringe must be clean.
The next step is to train the primary bee colony in the field, move the primary bee colony together with the nesting room out of the greenhouse, put it in the nearby mountain forest environment without natural enemies such as birds, use forceps to prop open two circular holes that only allow small professional bees to enter and exit, continue to put honey in the syringe, and put honey, small insects, lean meat and other foods at different distances, the small professional bees climb out of the nesting room, look for food from near and far, and gradually learn to prey on other small insects in the forest. With the passage of time, the nesting chamber of the staff bees continue to increase, the hive continues to expand, the nest room has eggs, larvae, pupae, occupational bees, queen bees and other different stages of development of the insect state and two layers of bee cake, pupa continue to feather, the number of new professional bees continues to increase, when the number of professional bees reaches about 15, it becomes a standard bee colony that can be completely placed in the wild.
The key to this process is to take the way of feeding food from near and far, exercising the ability of small professional bees to climb out of the nesting room, fly into the wild to find food and return to the nesting room; to prevent birds and other predators from preying on the small professional bees that have just flown out of the nesting room, and to prevent ants, rats and other ants from entering the nesting room for honey reasons to harm the eggs, larvae, pupae and queen bees inside.
<h2 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 21 The Concept of Standard Bee Colonies and How to Scientifically Breed High-Yielding and Relatively Prosperous Standard Bee Colonies</h2>
Quasi-bee colony breeding and management:
In the primary bee colony field training, when the professional bee can be assigned to the wild to find food and can return to the hive, it means that the primary bee colony has the ability to survive in the wild, at this time we will move the primary bee colony to the wild farm, wild stocking, breed standard bee colonies, the specific operations are as follows:
At night, after the experimental professional bees return to the nesting room, block the entrance and exit, move all the professional bees, queen bees, bee cakes, larvae, pupae, together with the nesting room, to the dense forest in the wild, take out the soil of the round hole near the groove of the hive hanging rod in the upper part of the nesting room, insert two nesting room hanging rods in the round hole, use these two hanging rods, hang the nesting room and the hive inside on the tree poles in the wild mountain forest, or hang on the bracket of the same height, and then cover the nesting room with a straw hat to block rain and shade, and then cut all the fine iron mesh nets. Remove the plastic bag that blocks the entrance and exit of the hive, let the worker bees come and go freely, and fly into the mountains and forests to hunt and take nesting materials. Even the hive is bred together in the wild mountain forest standard bee colony, over time, the number of professional bees is increasing, the range of predation is getting larger and larger, the hive is rapidly increasing, the nest is full of nesting rooms, and finally develops into a circular or oval hive with a diameter of 60-100 cm outside the nest.
The key to this process is that the hanging hive must be vertical; and the environment should not be too hot, and the bracket for hanging the standard bee colony is preferably made of wood material; do not transport the nesting chamber multiple times, while minimizing bumps during transportation. If there is multiple transportation or bumps, the eggs, larvae, pupae, and queen bee in the standard bee colony will be affected, and after hanging on the tree for a few days, they will fall from the hive, and the phenomenon of the worker bee lifting out the larvae will be seen, and the pupa will also die because of the bumps, will not feather, the queen bee will not continue to lay eggs, and the standard bee colony hanging on the tree will gradually decay.
It is important to transport standard bee colonies over long distances, feeding and reducing bumps along the way, feeding honey, small insects and mountain spring water once a day before departure, before lunch, and before eating in the afternoon. Try to transport it at night, and after transporting it to the breeding area, it should be artificially fed for about 10 days, and then moved to the mountain forest for breeding.
Manage standard bee colonies:
Just bred in the wild mountain forest environment of the standard bee colony, the small number of small professional bees in the process of going out to hunt will be preyed on by black capuchin and other birds, especially the small tender worker bees that have just flown out of the nesting room. The way to prevent such birds is to set up a few wooden stakes near the breeding of standard bee colonies, and put a highly sticky colloid on top of the stakes, which can stick to these birds, or shoot them with a slingshot.
In areas where there are eagles, large birds such as eagles will catch their hives and feed on bee pupae. One of the ways to prevent eagles is to add a layer of mesh-sized gel nets or fine iron mesh to the standard bee colony, the second is to selectively cover the fine fishing net above the standard bee colony on a large scale, and the third is to irregularly place a number of fish hooks near the standard bee colony, in the nesting room and on the surface of the hive.
Ants in the mountain forest will enter the hive along the mountain forest and along the scaffold to eat larvae, eggs, pupae, because of honey and other food factors, which have a great impact on the bee colony, so it is also necessary to pay attention to anti-ants. The main methods of anti-ant are 1, soaking gauze, plastic sheet, etc. in waste oil, and then wrapping it around the main pole of the tree hanging in the standard hive nesting room and the front part of the tree pole hanging in the nesting room, 2, if the standard bee colony is bred with a bracket, dig a pit where the bracket is inserted into the ground, put in water, or wrap the gauze soaked in waste oil in the lower part of the bracket, plastic bags, etc.
Breeding standard bee colonies in the mountains near a number of large individuals such as golden tiger bees, these earth bees will be in groups to prey on the gourd bees in the nesting room, the solution is to add a layer of mesh large rubber fence or fine iron mesh to the standard bee colony, while using honey water and other traps of these large earth bees as soon as possible.
With the development of the bee colony, the number of professional bees is increasing, and it is also necessary to pay attention to the safety of the surrounding personnel, and hang warning signs 50-100 meters away from the breeding area.
Special note: Then we have introduced the concept of standard bee colonies and how to operate and manage standard bee colonies, and the problems we are most concerned about are also issues that directly affect our interests, that is, whether the bee colonies are thriving or not, so we must pay attention to several key points here:
First, the main reason for affecting whether the bee colony is prosperous or not is the queen bee itself, when we choose the queen bee, we must choose the quasi-queen in the honeycomb where the bee colony is more prosperous in the previous year;
Second, it is also a very critical part, that is, the quality of the quasi-queen bee mating, if the quality of the queen bee mating is not good, it will directly lead to the lack of bee colony or the decline of the entire bee colony is not worth the loss;
Third, then we must artificially assist in feeding the standard bee colony, and often provide honey, fruits, insects and other meat foods to the bee colony, which can effectively help the bee colony grow and ultimately improve our production.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 22 How to Judge the Fullest Period of Bee Cake</h2>
Scientific methods of pupae extraction:
The wasp cake taken is the fullest, the most head-sealing, the smallest loss to the male bee and the quasi-queen bee (that is, the queen of the second year), which can maximize the guarantee that the number of honeycombs in the next year will not only not decrease, but also increase to a certain extent.
How do I get the bees to get the bee cake with the fullest bee head and the most? The most important thing is to choose the exact time to pick up the bees. In general, there are three time periods for people to take bees, one is when the bee is immature (that is, when the bee being taken has not yet been a quasi-queen), the second is when it is mature (the bee being taken has a quasi-queen), and the third is when the bee is mature (when the old queen bee has just lost her fertility or died). So, how to determine the specific bee picking time of each of the three time periods is correct? The answer is: 1, when the bee is immature, if it is a bee species in the hole that will pull soil, the number of worker bees pulling soil in it suddenly increases, the food bitten in the mouth of the worker bee at the end of the work decreases, and the time for building materials such as bark to increase is taken, and the bee cake is the most full and sealed. If it is a bee species in the cave that does not pull soil, the solid food biting into the mouth of the worker bee at the end of the work is reduced, and the time for building materials such as liquid food and bark to increase the time to take the bee, the bee cake is the most full of heads. If it is a bee species with a nest shell on the surface that wraps the bee cake in its entirety, choose the few days when the hive is most willing to grow (that is, the days when the "phosphorus shell" is the largest) to take the bee, and the bee cake is the fullest. 2. When the bees are mature, select the days when the rain has been sunny for 3-5 days and the quasi-queen bee has suddenly reduced the number and number of workers after a large number of workers. 3, when the bee is ripe, if it is a bee species with a bare nest shell on the surface of the ground to wrap the bee cake, choose the nest shell suddenly slippery (that is, there is no "phosphorus shell", indicating that the hive no longer grows) for 3-5 days and the number and number of worker bees to work decreased. If it is a bee species that pulls soil in the hole, choose to take it in 2-4 days without pulling soil, if it does not pull soil, choose 2-3 days when the number and number of worker bees work suddenly decrease.
How to get bees to ensure the number of queen bees in the coming year:
The most important thing is the means to take. Nowadays, people have a variety of means of taking bees, and the most stupid way is to use fire and medicine to kill all bees, leaving no living mouth. The most scientific means is to smoke with fire, if it is taken when the bee is immature, after the bee is smoked (be sure to ensure that the queen bee and most of the worker bees will come alive) take out the bee cake, pull out the bee pupa after putting the empty bee cake back in place, let the bees continue to breed, cultivate the male bee and the queen bee; if it is taken when the bee is mature or mature, after the bee is smoked, take out the bee cake and the worker bee except for the last cake (all are quasi-queen), keep the male bee and the quasi-queen, Let them wake up and continue to cultivate the last of the queen bees (Note: Each nest of wasps is generally composed of four colonies of different sizes, the smallest two are worker bees, the third largest minority is also worker bees, most of them are male bees - only responsible for JIAOPEI, and the fourth largest is the quasi-queen bee - and the male bees AA and become the queen of the second year after wintering. To make a drink, you can only use the worker bees, do not eat the worker bees, it will all die in the winter).
If you use fuse and fireworks to smoke, the last cake (quasi-queen bee cake) and the male bee and quasi-queen who have fainted into the old place, be sure to use the fire to take the position of the original hive, so that the fuse and the taste of fireworks and fire have a chemical reaction after dissipation, otherwise it will affect the fertility of the queen bee, and the serious queen will die.
By the way, tell you a secret to let the small hive grow rapidly: after a large bee is smoked, take away the hive, leaving all the worker bees, male bees and quasi-queen bees, and then move a small bee that is the same species as the taken bee to the position of the original large hive, and the next day, the swarm of two large and small bees will build a small hive together, and in ten days it will become a large hive again.
<h2 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 23 Scientific Pupae (this method can be taken multiple times</h2>).
Take the bee pupae, generally we will take out the fuller bee cake, the bottom of the cake or two cakes we generally stay in the hive, the bee colony continues to breed and grow.
Gourd bee pupae: First of all, we prepare the anti-bee suit, safety first, a sharp fruit knife, a small hacksaw, after we put on the anti-bee suit, the fruit knife is used to draw an oval on one side of the hive, so that we can take out the bee cake, when we cut the side of the hive out of a large oval, the cake will cut this piece of the hive shell well not to break, and then use the hacksaw strip we prepared to cut the bee cake from the bottom of the bee cake, and after the cutting is played, We put the bottom one or two cakes (according to whether the penultimate cake is full, and hang back to the hive) with a long bamboo skewer, hang it to the top of the hive, and then restore the oval hive shell that we cut off before, and the same applies to the long bamboo skewer to wear and fix, after a day or two the bee will automatically restore the bee cake and hive shell that we restore back to repair and fix. Next time we will continue to pupate.
The whole process of pupaling needs to pay attention to several operations, one is not to move too much, the queen bee as a whole is broken; the second is to pay attention not to let the queen fly away, this must be very careful. The queen bee flew away, and the nest was basically ruined; the third was to try to pupate at night to have less impact on the honeycomb.
Earth bees take bee pupae: the method of pupal pupae of earth bees is different from that of gourd bees, because the bee cake is at the bottom or in a large wooden box, so there are some differences between the underground and in the wooden box, in fact, the most difficult is the honeycomb at the bottom. First of all, I should have tools such as bee-proof suits, hoes, hacksaw blades, etc. ready in advance.
If it is a wooden box, it is to directly remove the lid on the top, and then carry the entire hive to the outside of the wooden box, put it upside down, take out the bee cake we need to take, and then fix the last cake on the hanging strip to restore it back, so that the hive continues to grow and develop.
If it is an underground hive, use a hoe or shovel to dig out the soil near the hive along the entrance and exit of the hive, expose the bee cake, take the remaining professional bees from the bee cake with anti-bee gloves, put the small hole in the side of the suction beehive into the bee cage, use a sharp long knife or hacksaw to cut off the connection between the upper and lower two bee cakes, take out the bottom two bee cakes one by one, carefully place them in the vicinity where there is no dew, and then take out the three bee cakes above and put them in the bamboo basket. In this process, it is necessary to protect a large number of remaining young worker bees and a queen bee on the hive, wear protective gloves to catch them one by one, and carefully place them on the top of the old bee cake that has not been taken out. Finally, the first two small bee cakes placed outside are carefully placed in the soil hole, and it is in close contact with the old bee cake above, lifted and fixed with thin bamboo pieces, and then backfilled with fine soil to about 5 cm below the hive, and then seal the front of the soil hole with no smell of old wooden boards, seal the gap between the wooden boards with thin mud, and leave the bee in and out. After all the tools and the bee cakes in the bamboo basket are taken to a safe distance of 200 meters, honey is placed near the hive, and then the suction beehive containing a large number of professional bees is placed at the entrance and exit of the soil cave, the iron sheet cover at the other end is opened, and all the professional bees are released. Thereafter, pupae are taken every 23 days or so until mid-December.
The key to this process is to accurately judge the number of professional bees that maintain the continued development of the bee colony according to the surrounding food situation; the bee cake should be very careful, to ensure that the queen bee does not fly out of the hive, to ensure that the two small bee cakes put back are not damaged; after each time the bee pupa is taken, the front opening should be sealed, and the cake should be placed nearby with honey, apples, bird meat and other foods.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 24 How to move the gourd bee to the wild to hang nests</h2>
Methods of wild stocking of gourd bee transplantation:
The key to this process is that the hanging hive must be vertical; and the environment should not be too hot, and the bracket for hanging the standard bee colony is preferably made of wood material; do not transport the nesting chamber multiple times, while minimizing bumps during transportation. If there is multiple transportation or bumps, the eggs, larvae, pupae, and queen bee in the standard bee colony will be affected, and after hanging on the tree for a few days, they will fall from the hive, and the phenomenon of the worker bee lifting out the larvae will be seen, and the pupa will also die because of the bumps, will not feather, the queen bee will not continue to lay eggs, and the standard bee colony hanging on the tree will gradually decay. It is important to transport standard bee colonies over long distances, feeding and reducing bumps along the way, feeding honey, small insects and mountain spring water once a day before departure, before lunch, and before eating in the afternoon. Try to transport it at night, and after transporting it to the breeding area, it should be artificially fed for about 10 days, and then moved to the mountain forest for breeding.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 25 How to Move Earth Bees to Wild Hopes for Stocking</h2>
Ways for earth bees to move into the nest or into an earth hole:
At night, after all the worker bees return to the nesting room, block the entrance and exit, move all the professional bees, queen bees, bee cakes, larvae, pupae, etc. to the dense forest in the wild, choose the sunny hillside environment with scattered shade, and the wooden box nesting room or the tree tube nesting room and the hive inside are bred together in the earthen cave.
Soil Cave Transplantation:
First, on the selected hillside, dig a platform 2.5 meters long and 2 meters wide, dig an arc-shaped drainage ditch above the platform, dig a slope of 2 meters long, about 1.2 meters high, about 70 degrees under the platform, draw a straight line parallel to the platform at a slope of 40 centimeters near the platform, select three points A, B, and C on the straight line, the central point B corresponds to the position of the nesting room on the platform, the distance between the left and right points A and C and the central point is about 70 cm, and the distance between the left and right points A and C is about 70 cm, and the two points on the left and right A. C each inserts a steel bar about 2.5 meters long and about 2 cm thick or about 3 cm thick pointed wooden sticks, bamboo poles, bamboo chips, these two steel bars, wooden sticks, bamboo pieces, folk called large sticks, the main role is to hold the bee cake, to prevent the bee cake from falling due to weight.
Second, at about 10 cm from the edge of the platform, dig two small parallel grooves on the platform that are about 30 cm apart (with the diameter of the nesting chamber as the standard), 2 meters long, 4 cm wide and 4 cm deep, and cut two tree poles with a diameter of about 3.5 cm and a relatively straight length of about 1.8 meters in the nearby mountain forest, and put the tree poles parallel into the grooves and bury them with soil. Choose the place opposite the central B point of the slope, dig a hole D between the two tree poles that is about 8 cm in diameter and about 5 cm deep than the nest, drill a small hole with a diameter of about 3 cm and a length of about 10 cm from the central slope point A with a fine steel bar, go straight to the soil hole D under the platform, and then use a shading net with a gap to cover the small hole, and the small hole is preferably a little oblique upwards.
Third, the nesting room is very carefully placed on the poles on both sides of the soil hole D, cover the nesting room with mud, in the case of ensuring that the surrounding area is completely closed, carefully open the soil facing the part of the small hole E, use pliers to clamp the plastic glue net under the nesting room, slowly pull it out, and when the plastic glue is all pulled out, immediately seal this part with mud, so that the staff bees in the nesting room will gradually descend from the nesting room to the soil hole D, crawl in the soil hole, and find the small hole E with bright light. Find a large tree pole with a diameter of about 6 cm and a length of about 2 meters nearby, place it horizontally in front of the platform, and then nail two vertical tree poles at both ends of the front to block the large tree pole that is horizontal, and then bundle a tree pole on the two poles to make a cross, and then cover the entire nesting room and platform with a large amount of soil, use the cross frame and drainage ditch, and cover a piece of asbestos tile above the soil to play a role in blocking rain.
Fourth, first listen to the sound of the worker bees in the cave at the exit of the small hole E, and then carefully pull out the shade net, quickly leave the vicinity to observe the activity of the worker bees climbing out of the small hole. It was observed that the worker bees first crawled near the mouth of the cave, and then slowly flew around the circle near the mouth of the cave, and then flew to the surrounding mountain forest, about 30 minutes, the worker bees came in and out normally, indicating the first step of successful breeding.
The key to this process is that after pulling out the shade net, do not be stung by the worker bees, put honey in the nearby mountain forest; there can be no soil grains in the soil cave D to block the small hole E; the tree in the nesting room should be very flat, and the hive should be careful when pulling out the plastic glue under the nesting room, check whether the nesting room is closed by mud, and whether the occupational bees will drill out to sting people; the nest must be vertical.
Do not transport nesting chambers multiple times while minimizing bumps during transport. If the transport is repeated or the bumps are large, the eggs, larvae, pupae, and queen bee in the standard bee colony will be affected, and after hanging on the tree for a few days, they will fall from the hive, and the phenomenon of the worker bee lifting out the larvae will be seen, and the pupa will also die because of the bumps, will not feather, the queen will not continue to lay eggs, and the standard bee colony cultivated in the soil will gradually decay.
It is important to transport standard bee colonies over long distances, feeding and reducing bumps along the way, feeding honey, small insects and mountain spring water once a day before departure, before lunch, and before eating in the afternoon. Try to transport it at night, and after transporting it to the breeding area, it should be artificially fed for about 10 days, and then moved to the belt because of the breeding on the hillside.
Nest box transplantation:
Moving into the nest box is much more convenient, after preparing the nest box, we go to the designated place to bulldoze the ground, install the nest box, and then remove the box facing up, and isolate the nest box in advance into the isolation net, at this time there is only the queen in the hive, we carefully fix the queen bee and the hive on the nest box board, install it back and fix it, and finally put the worker bee in the isolation net into the nest box through the entrance and exit of the nest box, the specific method is to fix the isolation net at the entrance and exit of the nest box and then open the net mouth. Let the queen bee freely enter the nest box to meet the queen bee, at this time we still can not put the professional bee in the wild, in order to adapt the bee colony to the new environment, we need to continue to provide food feeding for 10 to 15 days, when we observe that the bee colony has continued to build a normal nest, the nest box hole at the mouth of the activity area isolation net is removed, so that the professional bee free in and out, fly to the wild free intake of food.
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 26 Introduction to the List of Wasp Breeding Tools</h2>
If we want to go into the wasp farming industry, we must prepare the following tools:
Anti-bee suits at least two sets,
Several beekeeping nets (for greenhouse use),
Beehive two,
Mesh bee pouch several,
Materials for building greenhouses,
Winter box,
Nesting box,
cutting tool
Hacksaw blades,
Wait a minute
<h2 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chapter 27 Wasp Food Pairing</h2>
Wasps are the main food of different stages of farming
What is to be fed during the breeding process?
First, take the queen bee stage and the main feeding in the pre-hibernation period: Every November or so, most beekeepers move the whole nest of wasps home in order to facilitate the acquisition of the queen bee, and raise them in the greenhouse, many people think that the cost of breeding is too high, not cost-effective, in fact, I want to tell you that at this time, most of the bee pupae have become bees, and many worker bees do not have to feed bee pupae. Have lost enthusiasm, most of them are flying around and then stay on the greenhouse, showing a negative laziness of the situation, coupled with the lack of activity of most of the worker bees, eat less, at this time mainly feed fruit, honey water or sugar water, clean water, of course, the fruit mainly accounts for a large portion, must ensure that the bee colony is enough to eat, if there is a condition, you can also properly feed some meat, so feed until most of the worker bees die, and then the queen bee is concentrated, this time is also fed honey water, fruit, It is just that the concentration of honey water should be appropriately high to ensure the nutritional supplement of the queen bee, because in the winter, it is necessary to consume a lot of physical energy.
Second, after hibernation: because the queen bee consumes a lot of physical energy during hibernation, so the first week after waking up should quickly replenish physical energy and supplement nutrients, so the main feeding is still honey water, fruits can be fed apples, bananas, ploughs, meat can be temporarily fed!
After the third queen bee makes a nest and after the tree: this stage is just simply feeding honey water, fruit can not meet the increasing number of worker bees swarm, to start feeding meat, meat is the most convenient to feed grasshoppers, rabbit meat, pig lungs, pork liver, fish, why I choose these, because these are relatively easy to obtain, the cost is lower!
Note: Honey must be a little more innocent, do not be greedy, feed some low-priced, quality is not good! Otherwise, the queen bee is malnourished, her ability to lay eggs is reduced, or there is a pupal pupae!