The importance of scientific sun protection cannot be overstated.
Source | Poly beauty
Author | With consumers paying more and more attention to health, sunscreen has become the consensus of modern people's skin care. With the improvement of consumers' concept of sunscreen, the demand for multi-function sunscreen cosmetics has emerged, and the scale of the sunscreen market has also continued to grow.
According to iiMedia Consulting data, the market size of China's sunscreen cosmetics industry in 2023 will be 14.8 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 12.3%, and it is expected that the market size of China's sunscreen cosmetics will reach 22.4 billion yuan in 2028.
However, under the continuous growth of market data, due to differences in skin types, regions, cultures, and consumption habits, there is an objective contradiction between the market's cognitive demand for sunscreen products and the formulation science of sunscreen products.
In order to break the "cocoon" of sunscreen information and publicize the correct and scientific answers to sunscreen, the China Dermatology 100 Forum and Jumei jointly launched a scientific sunscreen expert consensus, which mainly focused on the impact of sunlight on the skin, the detection and use of sunscreen cosmetics, and the future development direction and trend of in-depth discussion and consensus, in order to provide scientific sunscreen guidance for professionals and consumers.
In mid-July, based on the completion of the first draft of the scientific sunscreen expert consensus, Jumei held an online and offline sunscreen expert consensus seminar, and a number of dermatology experts, professors, representatives of testing institutions, domestic and foreign sunscreen head brands, and raw material representatives put forward amendments to the first draft in order to improve the more professional sunscreen expert consensus.
The consensus of scientific sunscreen experts under "repeated scrutiny".
In the consensus of scientific sunscreen experts, in order to express more rigorously, many experts and professors, from the perspective of dermatologists, repeatedly scrutinized the words and sentences, and even some chapters need to be overturned and rewritten.
For example, Professor Liu Wei, former director of the Dermatology Hospital of the Air Force General Hospital, put forward suggestions for adjusting the main wavelength range of light on the earth's surface: "Regarding the wavelength range of medium-wave ultraviolet rays, the International Illuminating Society and the WMO usually use 100nm-280nm, but in the field of health, the WHO (World Health Organization) generally uses the recommended 100nm-290nm, although there is only a difference of 10nm, but the biological effect will change greatly, so it should be changed to 290nm. Short-wave ultraviolet rays should also be adjusted to 100nm-290nm. ”
At the same time, Professor Liu Wei believes that the expression of the word "blue light" in the section on the introduction of blue light is not very rigorous. "Visible light is divided into red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet, and blue light is wavelength between 400nm and 500nm, but violet light between ultraviolet and blue light is also in the range, so the 'blue light' expressed here is actually 'blue-violet light'."
In addition, Professor He Li, Vice Chairman of the Asia-Pacific Skin Barrier Research Association, believes that the passage of skin barrier damage needs to be adjusted. "The effect of UV exposure on the skin barrier is two-sided, with low doses accelerating the repair of the skin barrier, but high doses of UV exposure can damage the epidermal permeability barrier. Ultraviolet light mainly affects keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation; Intercellular lipid metabolism and the formation of tight bonds, which damage the skin barrier. ”
"From ultraviolet radiation to the treatment of skin diseases that promote dermatitis, don't put it in this paragraph, it should be put in front of the impact of ultraviolet rays on human health, it will be more logical and clear." Professor Zheng Zhizhong, former director of the Department of Dermatology at Huashan Hospital affiliated to Fudan University, added.
It is worth mentioning that when discussing the testing methods of sunscreen cosmetics, Professor Liu Wei, who is responsible for compiling the national standard of "SPF Value Measurement Methods for Sunscreen Cosmetics", introduced the sources of international and domestic standard methods for testing sunscreen:
According to the records, the historical method for measuring the SPF value or Protection Index (IP) of sunscreen products was established by H Blum et al. in the 30s of the 20th century and published in the 40s. In 1978, the United States FDA established a standard human testing method based on the concepts of minimum erythema (MED) and SPF values; In 1994, the European COLIPA supplemented the original test methods in detail and established the European Union (COLIPA) SPF measurement standard; On this basis, in 2002, COLIPA of the European Union, JCIA of Japan and CTFA of South Africa jointly established the International sun protection factor (SPF) test method. Final draft, 17 October 2002, p4.)； In 2010, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) launched the first edition of the SPF measurement standard (ISO 24444, 2010) based on the above-mentioned methods, and the second edition was revised and released in 2019, which is also the current internationally accepted test method for the sunscreen efficacy of cosmetics.
In 2002, China released the SPF test method based on human trials, and supplemented and revised it in the 2007 edition of the Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics, and subsequently refined and equivalent to ISO 24444 in the Hygienic Specifications for Cosmetics (2015 Edition), which has become the national standard for SPF value testing of sunscreen cosmetics in mainland China.
PFA was proposed by Japan in 1995, published in 2006 and became a common European standard (CEN2006), and was later replaced by IOS (24442, 2011).
In China, in recent years, celebrity evaluation bloggers have acted as "referees", which has exacerbated the chaos of sunscreen evaluation on the market and the involution of the industry, coupled with the fact that the existing detection methods may not be perfect, there are some defects, and at the same time, because the operation of sunscreen testing methods is difficult, there are many doubts and disagreements.
Therefore, in the consensus of scientific sunscreen experts, from the efficacy testing method to the detection of influencing factors, a detailed introduction has been made.
In this sunscreen seminar, there are many repeated scrutinies similar to the above, and Jumei only excerpts some of the content this time. However, it is not difficult to foresee that under the repeated scrutiny of many dermatology experts and professors, this scientific sunscreen expert consensus will be more authoritative and rigorous.
How to choose sunscreen cosmetics for different people?
While consumers are constantly hotly discussed, professional sunscreen brands and comprehensive beauty brands have successively introduced new subcategories such as efficacy, skin type, and scene, but this also makes people "dazzled", so how to choose sunscreen products has become a big problem.
In the scientific sunscreen consensus, the selection and use of sunscreen cosmetics are described in detail, such as the selection of sunscreen cosmetics for healthy skin, and the selection of sunscreen cosmetics for red, tanning, diseased, and problematic skin.
In order to popularize the choice of sunscreen cosmetics to the public in more detail, Professor Lai Wei, chief physician of the Department of Dermatology of the Third Affiliated Hospital of Sun Yat-sen University, put forward several suggestions: "First, sunscreen products with different sunscreen factor values (SPF and PA values) should be selected according to different scenarios, so as to provide you with a rough selection standard. For example, when the ultraviolet intensity of the plateau is high, you should use sunscreen products with high sun protection factor value, and if you sweat a lot or swim at the beach, you need to choose sunscreen products with waterproof and antiperspirant effects. Second, according to different ages (children need to use children's sunscreen products with the Xiaojindun logo) and different facial skin conditions (such as photosensitive skin diseases, freckles, melasma, rosacea and other diseases that cause sensitive skin, the requirements for sunscreen and the choice of sunscreen products are different). Therefore, this part of the content should be written according to different situations in reality. ”
At the same time, the consensus of scientific sunscreen experts mentions that children, the elderly and pregnant women need to do a better job of sun protection than the general population due to the difference in skin structure maturity and aging, or the influence of hormones in the body.
Professor Levy argues that it is not important to mention that such people need sun protection more than the general population, because these people also need moderate sun exposure. Whether you are a child, a pregnant woman, an adult or an elderly person, you need to protect yourself from the sun, but you also need to get a moderate amount of sun exposure.
Professor Ju Qiang, director of the Department of Dermatology at Renji Hospital Affiliated to Shanghai Jiao Tong University, also believes that there is no need to emphasize the comparison with the general population. "Rather, it is necessary to emphasize its differences and particularities, such as what are the differences in the use and composition of children's sunscreen? What are the special requirements for sunscreen for pregnant women? What aspects need to be paid attention to in use, etc. ”
In addition, the sunscreen of people after medical art also needs special instructions. Most of the patient's skin is in a state of allergy and obvious inflammation after medical art, but the allergic state is difficult to withstand the stimulation of sunscreen, so it is also necessary to pay attention to the way of sun protection.
In addition, Professor Lai Wei also pointed out: "Medical aesthetics is divided into invasive, minimally invasive and non-invasive, but whether it is invasive or non-invasive, in fact, the skin barrier will be damaged to varying degrees, and the skin's light protection ability will also decrease. However, due to the damage of the skin barrier in the early postoperative period, the ingredients of cosmetics can easily penetrate into the skin, so it is not suitable to use sunscreen cosmetics in the early postoperative period. According to the biological law of wound healing and skin barrier repair, it is recommended that people who do non-invasive medical aesthetics should use sunscreen cosmetics after three days; Those who have done invasive medical aesthetics only use it after a week to increase the safety of sunscreen products. ”
In addition to children, pregnant women, and post-medical and art groups, patients with skin diseases are also taken into account in the scientific sunscreen consensus, and how to correctly choose and use sunscreen cosmetics for such groups of people is also explained in detail.
For example, people with acne usually have strong skin oil secretion, so they should follow the principles of gentleness, efficiency and strictness, and try to choose refreshing and non-greasy sunscreen cosmetics to ensure daily protection.
Due to the selective loss of melanocytes, people with vitiligo have regional skin depigmentation and weak light protection ability, so they should follow the principles of gentleness, efficiency and strictness, and cooperate with strict "physical hard sunscreen" measures.
Judging from the above, this scientific sunscreen consensus has taken into account many factors and made a more detailed explanation from the impact of sunlight on the skin, to the detection of sunscreen cosmetics, to how to choose sunscreen products for different scenarios and different groups of people.
As Professor Liu Wei said: "The first draft of this scientific sunscreen consensus is still relatively comprehensive, with both professional knowledge of the cosmetics industry, skin diseases, and popular science content of light protection. ”
It is undeniable that in the early stage of the development of China's cosmetics industry, it was not uncommon to have fictitious efficacy and exaggerated publicity, which also left many consumers with unpleasant consumption experience and backward stereotypes. Therefore, the market needs to establish an industry consensus, and only under the standardization of scientific and systematic standards, the innovation of sunscreen products can move towards a healthier development.
At this sunscreen seminar, a number of dermatology experts and professors put forward revisions to the first draft of the scientific sunscreen consensus, which means that this consensus is gradually improving. In the future, Jumei will continue to pay attention to the sunscreen category, and work with the members of the scientific sunscreen expert group to point out the direction for the scientific cognition of the sunscreen market.
Members of the Scientific Sunscreen Expert Group: Zheng Zhizhong, former director of the Department of Dermatology of Huashan Hospital affiliated to Fudan University, Wen Hai, former director of the Department of Dermatology of Changzheng Hospital affiliated to the Second Military Medical University, Zou Ying, deputy director of the Skin and Cosmetics Research Office of the Dermatology Hospital of Tongji University, Ju Qiang, director of the Department of Dermatology of Renji Hospital affiliated to Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Wu Yan, chief physician of the Department of Dermatology of Peking University First Hospital, Yao Min, discipline leader of the optoelectronic team of plastic and reconstructive surgery of the Ninth Hospital of Shanghai Jiao Tong University School of Medicine, He Li, vice chairman of the Asia-Pacific Skin Barrier Research Association, Xu Yang, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology of Jiangsu Provincial People's Hospital, Li Li, Chief Physician of West China Hospital of Sichuan University, Liu Wei, Consultant of the Dermatologist Branch of the Chinese Medical Doctor Association, Lai Wei, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology of the Third Affiliated Hospital of Sun Yat-sen University, Chen Jin, Chief Physician of the Department of Dermatology of the First Affiliated Hospital of Chongqing Medical University, Wang Yinjuan, Senior Manager of the Medical Affairs Department of Kego China, Tao Jingyue, Deputy General Manager of Noah Testing Daily Chemical Division, Meng Qijin, Co-founder of Chaogui Research Institute and Head of Shanghai Laboratory, Li Mingyuan, Founder of Yiwei Evaluation, Founding Partner and Editor-in-Chief of Jumei @ Summer Children's Shoes
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