[The resurgence of ancient costumes, Zhou Jieqiong's style in "Tang Female Forensic Doctor" has aroused heated discussions, where is the aesthetics of ancient costumes going? ] 】
In this spring season, the costume drama "Tang Female Forensic Doctor" quietly landed on the screen, which was supposed to be a visual feast through time and space, but it was unexpectedly "out of the circle" because of the heroine Zhou Jieqiong's costume style, but this time it was not praised for beauty, but because of "uniqueness". Netizens have said that the "square with round" face and slightly rough neck line look out of place under the soft filter of costume dramas, like a staggered chess piece, stirring a pool of spring water with ancient elegance.
Looking back on the past, Zhou Jieqiong amazed everyone with a red dress and light yarn, holding a pipa in her arms, and that picture is still evocative. Why is it that now that you have changed into ancient costumes, you have become the target of public criticism? This can't help but make people juxtapose the two pictures: on the one hand, she cleverly covers her neck with her hair, adding a bit of gentleness and mystery; On the other side, it is a simple ball head hairpin, which exposes all the "imperfections" in a daze, and people can't help but sigh: Stylist, you can grow snacks!
This situation and this scene can't help but make people nostalgic, nostalgic for the beauties in those classic costume dramas, they are like bright stars, illuminating the childhood and youth of countless people. In costume dramas at that time, makeup and hair design was not only a decoration, but also a symbol of character and identity. As soon as the character appears, the audience can get a glimpse of the character's soul and story just by his makeup, hairstyle and costumes.
When it comes to the pinnacle of costume styling, the 1987 version of "Dream of Red Mansions" is undoubtedly an insurmountable peak. Teacher Yang Shuyun with his ingenuity, Lin Daiyu's "smoke eyebrows" vividly interpreted, the front high and low back eight-character eyebrows, as if born tailor-made for Chen Xiaoxu, a smile and a smile, showing Daiyu's weakness and talent. In terms of hairstyle design, it is even more eclectic, with asymmetrical lily buns, with delicate elements such as eyebrow spikes and small hanging hair, which shows Daiyu's unique temperament to the fullest.
Looking at Wang Xifeng again, the depiction of "Danfeng triangular eyes, willow leaves hanging eyebrows" has turned into a vivid reality under the pen of Mr. Yang Shuyun. A "hanging eyebrows" with exaggerated arcs and raised eyebrows, with towering buns and complicated hair accessories, makes a shrewd, capable, and imposing Wang Xifeng leap onto the screen.
And Xue Baochai's autumn eyebrows are gentle as water, which complements her personality. In terms of hairstyle, the parallel contrast combing method is both noble and gentle, and every detail reveals the ingenuity of the designer.
When it comes to Yang Shuyun, I have to mention Li Yuhu and Du Bingyan in "Marrying the Right Man in the Wrong Sedan Chair". One martial and one literate, one delicate and one elegant, the two have completely different styling designs, but they are equally memorable. Li Yuhu's liveliness and agility are vividly displayed through light bangs and bright clothes; And Du Bingyan's beautiful demeanor is quietly revealed in the meticulous hair and elegant clothing.
On the other hand, at present, the shape of costume dramas seems to have fallen into a kind of "routine" circle. The head of the balls and the crown of hair are flying all over the sky, whether it is the protagonist or the supporting role, it seems to be carved out of a mold. The makeup is even more the same, with one-line eyebrows and big red lips becoming the standard, lacking the tailor-made ingenuity and personality.
"Chosen Heaven", "Fuyao", "Drunk Linglong", ...... Costume dramas followed, but there seemed to be nothing more left for the audience except for visual fatigue. We can't help but ask: Is the beauty of ancient costumes really only in memories?
Perhaps, it's time for the stylists of costume dramas to wake up. Returning to the classics does not mean copying and copying, but on the basis of respecting tradition, we must have the courage to innovate and tailor the most suitable makeup and clothing for each character. Only in this way can costume dramas truly radiate new vitality, so that the audience can enjoy the visual feast while also feeling the cultural charm that travels through time and space.