【Background】
In the long river of history, the dragon robe, as a symbol of imperial power, has always shone with dazzling light. However, when we turn the pages of the Song Dynasty, we will find an interesting phenomenon: the emperors of the Song Dynasty do not seem to be so enthusiastic about dragon robes, and even in some periods, dragon patterns are rare in emperor clothing.
This can't help but make people wonder, why in the Song Dynasty, a dynasty with prosperous culture and advanced technology, the emperors chose such a low-key clothing style? Is it a change of time, or a cultural transformation? As the old saying goes, "The times make heroes, and they also make clothes." Today, let's unveil the mystery of the Song Dynasty emperor's costume revolution and explore the story behind it.
1. Elegant style, revival of weekly rites
When it comes to the Song Dynasty, many people think of the words "heavy literature and light martial arts". Indeed, the Song Dynasty was an important period for the revival of Confucianism, and it was also the cradle of the budding growth of science. This cultural atmosphere deeply influenced the dress system of the Song Dynasty. Emperors not only pursued the beauty of clothing, but also paid more attention to the cultural connotation and symbolism behind it.
As a result, the ancient and solemn dress of the crown dress received unprecedented attention in the Song Dynasty. The emperors not only revised the shape of the crown dress many times, but also restored the large fur crown that had not been used for a long time, striving to reflect the respect and revival of the Zhou rites in the clothing.
Second, thrift first, set an example for the world
The establishment of the Song Dynasty was after the war of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, and the country was in ruins and the finances were tight. The founding monarch Zhao Kuangyin knew the truth of "success is due to diligence and thrift, and defeat is due to luxury", so he vigorously advocated the style of frugality. As the king of a country, he naturally has to lead by example and start with his clothing.
The intricate and ornate dragon robe was gradually simplified, and bright yellow was replaced by a more subtle color. In this way, the emperors hoped to send a signal to the people of the world to govern the country frugally and share weal and woe with the people. This atmosphere not only influenced the emperor, but also infiltrated the entire bureaucratic system, forming a political culture unique to the Song Dynasty.
Third, the difference between Huayi and the revival of Hanfu
At the beginning of the establishment of the Song Dynasty, it faced the threat of a strong enemy in the north. In order to consolidate its rule and emphasize the centrality of the Han nation, the Song government adopted a series of measures to distinguish between Huayi, including a ban on clothing. They forbade the scholars to wear Hu-style clothing, trying to highlight the uniqueness and superiority of Han culture through clothing.
As a symbol of the country, the emperor naturally had to set an example in his clothing to demonstrate his authority and status as the leader of the Han nation. This revival and emphasis on Hanfu not only enhanced national cohesion, but also promoted the unique development of Song Dynasty costume culture.
Fourth, the influence of Hufu and cultural integration
Although the Song Dynasty government strongly emphasized the distinction between Huayi and forbade Hufu, the blending of cultures was an irresistible historical trend. In real life, some elements of Hufu were quietly integrated into the costumes of the Song Dynasty. For example, felt hats, which originally belonged to ethnic minorities such as Khitan and Jurchen, appeared in the folk and even the court of the Song Dynasty.
This phenomenon shows that although the Song government tried to reinforce national identity and cultural differences through clothing, cultural exchange and integration were inevitable. Just as the ancients said: "The sea is tolerant of all rivers, and tolerance is great." "The clothing culture of the Song Dynasty continued to grow and develop in this blend and collision.
【Sublimation at the end】
Behind the Song Dynasty emperors not wearing dragon robes, there are actually deep cultural, political and social reasons. From the revival of Confucianism to the concept of frugal governance, from the emphasis on the distinction between Huayi and Yi to the trend of cultural integration, these factors together shaped the unique clothing culture of the Song Dynasty.
Although the emperors of the Song Dynasty no longer wore gorgeous dragon robes like the emperors of the previous dynasties, they showed the majesty and style of the emperors in a more restrained and profound way. As the old saying goes, "True luxury is not in the extravagance of the outward, but in the abundance of the heart and the cultural heritage." ”
The clothing culture of the Song Dynasty is the best interpretation of this sentence. In today's fast-paced, high-pressure society, we may be able to draw some inspiration from the clothing changes of the Song Dynasty: simplicity but not simplicity, low-key but style is the real luxury and style.