The 2024 "Watches and Wonders" Geneva Haute Horlogerie Fair has come to an end, there is a fashion trend in this year's new products, several brands have chosen to combine tradition and innovation, the quality is very high, and it is impressive, so today I will talk to my cousins about three of the representative new products, FREAK S NOMAD WHIMSICAL S WALKER WATCH, PORTUGIESER SERIES PERPETUAL CALENDAR WATCH, AND ROGER DUBUIS EYE EYE TOURBILLON WATCH.
雅典表奇想系列2513-500LE-4A-GUI/3A
产品型号:2513-500LE-4A-GUI/3A
Diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 16.65 mm
Movement type: automatic
Movement number: UN-251
Case material: titanium, carbon fibre lugs
Water resistance: 30 meters
Watch Review: As I have talked to you, the Freak S is what I think is the most high-profile Alysse Nardin watch in recent years, and I think it's the most dazzling Ulysse Nardin watch to date. The most distinctive feature of this watch is that Ulysse has designed the entire movement as a starship, with a huge carrousel mechanism that rotates once an hour, the minute hand shows the bow of a combat ship, and the movement's double balance wheel and escapement are all integrated into the carrousel, which is like the ship's thrusters in the second half. At this year's show, Ulysse Nardin also unveiled the new FREAK S NOMAD S Walker. The new FREAK S is still 45mm in diameter, but the bezel and main case are made of grey-plated titanium, supplemented by carbon fiber for the upper case.
But at the same time as the cool and technological sense, Athens is wonderful in the second when it puts the original aventurine starry sky clockwork lid, that is, FREAK The hour dial of the S is instead made of a traditional machine-skeleton dial, which takes three hours to complete 240 times through a rose lathe without interruption, creating a delicately interlaced curvilinear diamond pattern, which is then treated with a dune CVD color, when the light illuminates the dial, each diamond pattern will reflect a charming brilliance, which also echoes the theme of the watch design, like a starship that has just landed on a planet full of rolling sand dunes. The UN-251 calibre is linked by two balance wheels, which drive the movement through a differential that averages the error between the left and right balance wheels for a more accurate timekeeping. The movement's silicon automatic grinding machine winding system uses four symmetrical pawls to capture subtle wrist movements and convert them into energy, making it twice as efficient as a traditional winding structure, and providing 72 hours of power for a full chain.
IWC万国表葡萄牙系列IW505701
Product model: IW505701
Diameter: 44.4 mm
Case thickness: 15 mm
Movement type: automatic
Caliber number: 52640
Case Material: Platinum
Water resistance: 50 meters
Watch Review: IWC's new collections this year are themed the Year of Portugal, and the brand has made a wave of updates to the Portuguese collections, incorporating more modern styles into these classics, creating more minimalist and sophisticated designs. At the fair, IWC also unveiled two very eye-catching grand complications, the Eternal Calendar and the Spherical Day and Night Tourbillon. Then we look at the eternal calendar, this is made of platinum, a very symbolic piece, the innovation is that it directly uses glass, after frosted treatment and white lacquer as the dial, but also under different light angles, you will find that the digital hour markers on the transparent subdial will be reflected on the dial, this wonderful visual effect, has never been seen on other Portuguese watches, and when you savor the watch, you will find that it has many traditional elements of the design, such as the box-shaped sapphire glass design, that is, the bubble mirror, and the moon phase window under the translucent design of the frosted glass, the underlying titanium dial is made of the traditional guilloché pattern。
The performance of the Eternal Calendar has also been enhanced to new heights by IWC's continuous in-depth study of traditional complications, such as the moon phase just mentioned, its precision performance through a reduction gear system, directly raising the accuracy of a conventional moon phase watch for hundreds of years to 45 million years after only one day of deviation from the moon's orbit. The 52640 calibre, which is produced by IWC, is also a new module built with only eight components, which solves the problem of "no leap year in a hundred years" of the conventional perpetual calendar, and teaches mechanical parts how to truly identify flat leap years, and the eternal calendar of all nations can accurately calculate all leap years up to at least 3999, and automatically skip three non-leap year century years in 400 years, which is infinitely close to eternity in the real sense.
Roger Dubuis Grandwatch RDDBEX1119
Product Model: RDDBEX1119
Domestic public price: ¥1,905,000
Diameter: 45 mm
Movement type: manual mechanical
Caliber number: RD115
Case material: 18K rose gold
Water resistance: 100 meters
Watch Review: This year's Roger Dubuis new creations are all built around the tourbillon, and the four new tourbillon models have their own characteristics, but the most important piece must be the Eye of the Sky, Roger Dubuis has extended the central tourbillon from the Knights of the Round Table to the Excalibur series. "Orbis" means round, spherical, wheel, earth, and eye in Latin, so the entire dial of the Eye of the Sky is also shaped in concentric circles around the central tourbillon. However, compared with the eighth generation of the Knight's Round Table Central Tourbillon, the knight's miniature carving and Murano glass used, there is no doubt that this Eye of the Sky has done a lot of subtraction, its modern architectural beauty of the hollow disc is more transparent, and the white space is used to make the central tourbillon more prominent, giving people the feeling that RD is using two disc aesthetic design styles, interpreting the difference between modern artwork and classical art.
And when you flip the watch, you will find that Roger Dubuis has hidden surprises in this watch, RD shows what it means to be modern on the one hand, traditional on the other, and wonderful on both sides. The RD115 calibre returns to the polishing and decoration of the traditional Poinson de Genève style in the early days of Roger Dubuis, with a large number of sharp corners deliberately left on the independent bridge, which increases the complexity and beauty of the movement with this hand-finished symbol, and in terms of polishing and finishing, counting the annular Geneva pattern of the bridge and the fish scale pattern on the bottom layer, RD uses a total of 19 decorative techniques, which are in response to the complex and complicated Baroque skeleton movement style with classic decoration used by Roger Dubuis in the early days, and also makes up for the regret that the eighth generation of the Knights of the Round Table center top is not transparent and cannot see the movement modification。
Summary: The three new products of the watch exhibition have been introduced to you, and it is necessary to discuss the combination of tradition and innovation and this design style, then I think these three new works have achieved the ultimate and have their own characteristics. Of course, these three new works selected from the Geneva Watch Fair are only what I personally like very much, so I have made a simple sharing with you, so I don't know what new products you like at this year's Watch Fair, you can also leave us a message in the comment area to share, if you have the opportunity to borrow real pictures, to give you a more detailed introduction.