#我来唠家常#
-The Legend of the Gentleman of Things-
Please let me drown in the sea of cheong fun
If you want to eat the most authentic taste of a certain type of food, you can't go wrong with choosing a century-old restaurant.
But cheong fun is a special case, there is no century-old store, and no one dares to call themselves "authentic".
▲ is a young and white young man. Photo/soogif
What is most important in cheong fun
It's so hard to find a bowl of cheong fun in the north, and you don't even have a name on the "roster" of a Cantonese restaurant. In Guangdong, cheong fun is a very "market" and ubiquitous food, with porridge, rice and flour in the breakfast shop "carve up the world", with vegetables, fruits and pastries in the snack industry "competition", and chicken, fish and eggs on the table "compete for favor", it can be said that cheong fun has been integrated into the life of Guangdong people.
▲ This filling is also integrated into the rice skin. Figure/Network
Miraculously, compared to the food that is often a hundred years old, cheong fun can only be regarded as a young man, what kind of charm does it have?
When I first heard about rice rolls, I always thought that pig intestines should be mixed with a kick in them, but I didn't expect it to be named because it resembles pig intestines. The common cheong fun consists of three parts – rice paste, sauce, and filling. Many people will think that the filling is the absolute C position in this dish, but in fact, the rice skin is the most important.
The rice husk in the rice noodles has extremely high requirements, it should be thin but unbreakable, the smell should be fragrant, the entrance should be smooth, refreshing and elastic, and the mouth should leave an aftertaste. The different flavors of rice are also produced by the use of fragrant rice, and the flavor of the rice skin is stronger, while the old rice skin is smoother and more transparent, and many masters will also mix the new and old rice to combine the advantages of the two to achieve the best tasting experience. Therefore, some people use the rice noodles with only rice skin and no other fillings as a standard to test the quality of the rice rolls in the place.
▲ 面皮要有韧性。 图/soogif
The process of making rice peel is also "strange". One of the oldest is the old-fashioned practice of pouring rice milk into a flat basket made of bamboo slivers, spinning the basket like an acrobatic twist to evenly distribute the rice milk, and then sprinkling it with the filling and steaming it. This method can filter out the water in the rice milk, making the rice skin more fragrant, and also has a "rural" atmosphere.
▲ Please look at the bamboo basket next to it. Diagram / Diagram Worm Creative
Boula rice rolls are one of the more popular types of cheong fun. A fine, smooth cloth is used as a cushion, and the steam that escapes from the gaps in the cloth makes the rice milk on it gradually turn from white to transparent, and the final rice rolls are delicate and mellow, and the taste is full.
▲ The technique is very exquisite. Figure/Network
In order to improve the production efficiency of the rice rolls, the drawer of rice rolls was "born", the surface of the iron plate is smooth and flat, so that the rice rolls are more permeable and uniform, and then the iron plate containing the rice milk that has been shaken evenly is put into the drawer-like steamer, and in an instant, several pieces of crystal white rice husk are dragged out of this steel container, becoming the most beautiful cub on the table.
▲ 效率hin高,手��yehin熟. 图/Sugif
The duel between Cantonese cheong fun and Chao cheong fun
There are already so many types of rice paste, but I didn't expect that the types of fillings and sauces were not to be outdone. Gourmets uphold the principle of "everything can be cheong noodle" and produce different types of cheong fun, which has also caused the battle for the "iron throne of cheong noodle". Whether to add eggs or not, whether to choose pork or beef, whether the preserved vegetables need to be fried and then filled, etc., have all induced various "verbal swords". Among them, the most ruthless "pinching" is Cantonese rice noodles and Chao rice noodles, Cantonese dislikes Chao style roughness, and Chao style diss Cantonese style material is less...... On this topic, the people of Guangzhou and Chaoshan could quarrel unconvincingly with each other for three days and three nights.
▲ Guess whether this is Cantonese style or tide style. Figure/Network
From the point of view of appearance, Cantonese rice rolls are more in pursuit of exquisite plating, the outer skin and the inner filling are distinct, and a few green vegetables will be put on to decorate from time to time, and the control of the proportion of meat powder is also very important, which is really not picking, but in order to ensure the harmonious coexistence of meat and fragrant rice, and also make the rice noodles not too greasy;
There is also a big difference in the sauce. Cantonese rice rolls are mostly poured with soy sauce, but this is not soy sauce without a story. It is boiled with water, broth, rock sugar, fish sauce and other seasonings to achieve a fresh and sweet but not salty, clear but not light, oily but not greasy flavor. Such a sauce not only does not cover the original flavor of cheong fun, but injects soul into cheong fun, bringing out the freshness of cheong fun; the sauce of cheong fun is more diverse, in addition to soy sauce, there are peanut butter, sesame paste, marinade sauce, etc., different flavors of sauce always have a to meet your needs, which is also the essence of cheong fun, so that some people fall in love with the garlic sauce in cheong fun.
▲ Sauce is key. Figure/Network
Eat, use chopsticks to pick up a piece of "exquisitely dressed" Cantonese rice noodles, savor carefully, the sweetness of soy sauce, the elasticity of the skin, and the fullness of the filling are displayed in the mouth one by one, if you are a professional, you may be able to taste a top, middle and back notes;
But there is one thing that the people of Guangzhou and Chaoshan have reached the same agreement, and that is the filling. This is not to say that the fillings they use are the same, but the fillings are not so important in their eyes, whether it is barbecued pork, bacon, beef, shrimp, oysters, it is just what they eat.
▲ Although it is not important, I still love the shrimp inside. Photo/soogif
"Internal worries" are constantly trendy rice rolls
Chao-style rice rolls not only have the "external trouble" of Cantonese rice rolls, but also "internal worries", and the excitement of the battle between various regions in Chaoshan also makes people have to watch.
▲ 来啊!battle啊。 图/soogif
The name of Chaoshan is taken from Chaozhou and Shantou, forming a unique Chaoshan culture, among which there is a kind of life called "Wutiao Rice Noodles", which means eating a bowl of rice rolls, but what kind of rice rolls to eat is hard to say.
Peanut butter and sand tea sauce are mostly used as sauces in Chaozhou, and the rice rolls made by them have a rich texture, while the rice rolls in Shantou have a thin skin, supplemented by soy sauce and braised soup, giving people a light and thin texture.
▲ This can be said to be very sufficient. Photo/soogif
Even the entire Shantou area is divided into different areas by various rice powder forces. In some areas, the filling of rice rolls is beef without eggs, and the dishes are also steamed directly into the rice skin, while in Chenghai, it is more common to have beef and egg filling, in which the preserved vegetables wrapped in the rice skin must also be fried. Even if it is such a small difference, some ingenious masters must be traditional and exquisite, which gives rise to the saying that "there is tradition but not authenticity" in Cantonese rice noodles.
▲ Which hero can distinguish all the rice rolls?
Chenghai also has a kind of black and white rice noodles with Chinese painting art, filled with white pork foam bean sprouts, as well as dark marinated squid minced, and then poured black marinade on the white rice skin like snowflakes, black and white blend, a classical masterpiece presented in the bowl.
Also famous for its abundance of ingredients, soup and unique garlic-flavored marinade, it looks like a hodgepodge on the surface, but when you enter it, the rice skin is as thin as a cicada's wing, full of toughness, the marinade is thick and thin, evenly saturated, and the filling is full of aroma and rich flavor, which is unforgettable after eating it once.
▲ Puning Supreme Deluxe Edition Cheong Fun. Figure/Network
In addition to these, there are countless types of rice rolls in the Chaoshan area, such as Raoping rice rolls with sweet and salty bites, and Chaoyang rice rolls with watercress or macaroni. Other areas say that it is "moving to change the scenery", but the Chaoshan area is definitely "moving to change the intestines", so you must set aside a stomach for Chao-style rice rolls!
In fact, this phenomenon does not only occur in the Chaoshan area, but also occurs frequently in various regions of Guangdong. For example, in Yunfu on the west side of Guangdong, Hekou Rice Noodles, Heaven Rice Noodles, Yunan Rice Noodles, etc. are all coveting the name of "Yunfu No. 1 Rice Noodles".
▲ Stone-ground rice rolls. Figure/Network
It's not just Guangdong that has rice rolls
Cheong fun is not a patent of Guangdong, although the name is different, but the production process is similar.
▲ Fancy bundling powder. Figure/Network
As the name suggests, the Fujian Hakka dustpan is poured into a flat dustpan with rice milk ground from indica rice, steamed and then fried raw materials such as mung bean sprouts, leeks, shredded carrots, shredded meat, and shiitake mushrooms into the rice skin and rolled up, and finally drizzled with scallion oil to add the finishing touch to this delicacy. A dustpan with a bowl of pork rib soup begins, and the perfect day for the Hakka people in southern Fujian begins.
Guangxi roll flour is naturally not to be outdone, it was introduced from Vietnam, after improvement, now it has spread all over the streets and alleys of Guangxi, the roll flour skin is transparent and sticky, the filling mainly has meat foam, beans, etc., and then with Guangxi's unique yellow skin sauce, absolutely dominant.
▲ I love this heavy taste. Photography / Su Xiaoqi
Cheong fun is constantly changing with people's food requirements. In order to satisfy people who just want to eat rice noodles, in addition to fasting sausages, there is also a kind of pork rice rolls rolled into long strips, which are more compact and dense than ordinary rice rolls, and are poured with sesame sauce or even tomato sauce according to the taste, like the appearance of love.
▲ 裹满酱汁，一口吞下。 图/soogif
Another "genius creation" is the fried two, which combines the two kings of the breakfast stall, fried dough sticks and rice rolls, so that people can enjoy the crispiness of the fried dough sticks and the softness of the rice skin at the same time. As for the origin of the strange name of fried two, because the fried dough sticks can be divided into two, so it is necessary to wrap the fried fried fritters with two parts of rice flour skin, so there is "one fried two intestines". Then the chef innovatively made red rice skin from red grain rice, and there is a generation of Internet celebrity products - red rice sausages.
▲ This red color is too tempting. Figure/Network
The special regionality of each cheong fun makes it carry a unique taste memory, and a cheong roll full of delicacies from the mountains and seas may not be as cheap as sitting on the side of the road at the door of the house.