[House of Watches 2024 Geneva Watch Exhibition "Watches and Wonders"] On April 9, 2024, the 2024 Watches and Wonders Geneva Exhibition opened. All speculation and doubts were swept away. I'm going to focus on Patek Philippe and Rolex this year's heavyweight new watches for you to give you a comprehensive interpretation, so let's get started.
First of all, there is Patek Philippe.
In the past, I always put Rolex at the front, but this year, since Patek Philippe came out with "accurate" information earlier before the watch exhibition, this year, let's talk about PP first.
Patek Philippe 5330G World Hour, public price 680900
At the beginning of this year, Patek Philippe completely discontinued the worldtime 5230, and now, a replacement for the 5230 worldtime, the 5330, has arrived, the first being the platinum case 5330G with a size of 40 mm. The new 5330 is still the standard Patek Philippe Worldtime, with a 24-hour day and night circle and a city circle. The first change in the new 5330 is that the watch hands have been replaced by regular baton hands, instead of special shaped hands like the 5130 and 5230. The second change is that a date ring has been added to the outermost ring of the dial, and from the center of the dial there is a "transparent" date hand (red at the end) indicating the date. In the past, 5130 and 5230 world hours did not have a calendar. On the outside, in the center of the dial, there is a blue "carbon fiber check" decoration, which is the same as the Patek Philippe World Time 5935 decorative pattern. The most surprising thing is that the new 5330 continues to use the 240 Pearl Topor movement, and it is surprising that the new generation 260 Pearl Topor movement has not been replaced.
Patek Philippe 5330G World Time
Patek Philippe retrograde perpetual calendar 5160R, public price 1,989,700
The retrograde perpetual calendar is a Patek Philippe feature. This year, Patek Philippe launched a new retrograde perpetual calendar 5160R, which is also a new generation of retrograde perpetual calendar launched after Patek Philippe discontinued the old 5160 at the beginning of this year. The overall appearance and layout of the new generation 5160 have been continued. The calendar hand of the perpetual calendar is backwards. At the same time the size of the watch is 38 mm, and the official case back will not change. The engraving of the dial, case, and caseback has not changed. The main change is that the new 5160 is equipped with a Patek Philippe new generation of automatic calibre 26-330. It is not surprising that the 330 calibre has now been extensively refurbished on Patek Philippe's main force to replace the old 324 calibre.
Patek Philippe 5160R retrograde perpetual calendar
Patek Philippe "One Line of Sky" Perpetual Calendar 5236P, public price 1257000
The iconic style of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar, the "First Line of Sky" Perpetual Calendar, this year's new platinum shell and salmon plate are here. When the "First Line Sky" 5236 was launched in 2021, it was a blue disk platinum case. And this year's new one is the Salmon Platinum Shell. At present, both are on sale, both of which are platinum, which shows the important position and popularity of the "first-line sky" 5236P in the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar.
Patek Philippe 5236P One-Line Sky Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe Calendar 5396G, public price 564600
At the beginning of this year, Patek Philippe discontinued the production of the old 5396, with the aim of introducing the new 5396 using the new 330 calibre, no, the new generation 5396 is coming. The first 5396G, platinum shell, blue diamond engraving. The new model still measures 38.5 mm, and the overall appearance has not changed. The main thing is to upgrade the new generation of 26-330 automatic movement, replacing the 324 movement of the old 5396 in the past. In addition to this white gold case, follow-up gold, rose gold, etc., will definitely follow.
Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G, public price 701800
The 5980 Nautilus Timing, which was originally discontinued at the beginning of this year, is back. The new 5980G white gold case, the body has not changed, it is still a 40.5 mm case, and the CH28 flyback chronograph movement. The changes are all in appearance. The new 5980G features a new gray-blue disc with a gray-blue denim leather strap. Obviously, Patek Philippe is also becoming more and more fashionable and young in the current trend.
Patek Philippe grenade is 5164G in two places, and the public price is 560400
At the beginning of this year, Patek Philippe discontinued the production of the steel-cased grenade 5164A, and now the new platinum-cased 5164G it has arrived. The new 5164G uses a new gray-blue disc and gray-blue tape, and the color scheme is the same as the Nautilus 5980G on the front. There is no doubt that gray-blue is the main color of Patek Philippe's sports watches this year. The new 5164G is also equipped with a new generation of automatic calibre 26-330, replacing the 324 calibre on the old steel-cased 5164. Now, when the grenades on sale are all gold watches, one in white gold and one in rose gold. It can be seen that there are few steel watches left in Patek Philippe nautilus and grenades, and gold watches will become the mainstream of Patek Philippe sports watches.
Patek Philippe 5164G in two places
Next, there's Rolex.
A few hours before the opening of the exhibition, a Rolex message was also circulated, which proved to be accurate, and the new watches were these ones.
Rolex GMT "Preserved Egg Ring" steel case 126710, public price 89500
Last year, Rolex launched the black-and-gray GMT "Egg Ring", but last year it was all gold and gold intermittent, and because last year's Daytona "penetrated" limelight overtook all other new watches, so the "Egg Ring" did not receive enough attention. And this year, the new "preserved egg ring" is not only a steel case, but also a "little green needle" is back (also with the 3285 caliber). The new steel-shelled "preserved egg ring" 126710 can be said to have taken over the mantle of the previous 116710, and the black and gray two-color circle is better than the single black circle in the past. Objectively speaking, the black and gray "preserved egg ring", compared with the blue-black circle, red and blue circle with higher colors, is lower in the actual market. I believe that the steel shell 126710 "Egg Ring" will be closer to players and easier to start in the Rolex GMT from a long-term perspective.
Rolex Greenwich GMT "Preserved Egg Ring" steel case
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Ice Blue Skeleton Platinum Case at 253,700
Perpetual 1908 is Rolex's dress watch collection launched in 2023, replacing the previous Cellini. This year, it is no surprise that the new Perpetual 1908 is available in a platinum case (39 mm) with an ice blue disc, which is the standard addition to the Rolex platinum case, and the guilloché pattern on the dial, which is extremely rare in Rolex. Because Rolex has always been durable and durable from ancient times to the present, guilloché, which appears on formal models, is not Rolex's main feature. Previously, a similar stud decoration had only been found on the Rolex Prince. Perpetual 1908 ice blue guilloché, centered on the small seconds dial, spread out in all directions. The watch uses the slim 7140 automatic movement, which was launched by Rolex last year. Objectively speaking, the platinum shell and the guilloché plate, with a price of more than 250,000 yuan, are really not expensive.
Rolex Perpetual 1908 platinum-cased ice blue skeleton plate
劳力士深潜型DEEPSEA136668黄金壳,公价436100
I didn't expect wow, I didn't expect that Rolex would give the ghost king DEEPSEA an all-gold payment. ASIDE FROM THE 50MM DEEPSEA CHALLENGE, WHICH IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO WEAR, THE 44MM GHOST KING DEEPSEA IS ALREADY THE LARGEST AND THICKEST DIVER'S WATCH IN ROLEX. The original steel shell of the ghost king DEEPSEA is already very large and heavy, and now the gold shell and gold chain will weigh quite well (the titanium case back will reduce some weight). Now that the price of gold has risen, this is a real "big nugget". In terms of appearance, the blue and gold combination is a luxury color of the Rolex diver's watch, but it depends on your wrist whether you can hold it.
劳力士深潜型DEEPSEA黄金壳
Rolex Day-Calendar 36 "Applied Roma" Dial 128235, Official Price 317300
Please note that this year, Rolex has given the 36 mm Day-Date (DD) with applied roman hour markers. Previously, the new applied roman hour markers were only available on the 40 mm day-date, not on the 36 mm. Now, this problem no longer exists. 36 mm and 40 mm are the same treatment.
Rolex Day-Calendar 36 "Solid Romaji" dial
Rolex Sky-Dweller 336938 gold case five-bead chain, public price 410200
This year, Rolex has given the Sky-Sailers of the Golden Case a five-bead chain, including a gold case and a rose gold case. Previously, the gold-cased Sky-Sailers were equipped with oyster bracelets or tapes, and the five-bead chain only appeared on the gold models. From now on, the gold-shell long-sailer, all kinds of bracelets will be matched, and there will be any bracelet you want.
The Rolex Sky-Dweller comes with a five-bead gold case
Rolex Daytona 126589 diamond ring in white gold for 514,300 nominal price
Rolex Daytona's new launch this year is the main four words "drill circle drilling". A large number of new diamond-set styles are available, including round diamond rings and square diamond diamond circles. Some of the disc is a strip drill, and some of the disc is a package of drills, all kinds of combinations, everything. One of the more representative is the style of this mother-of-pearl.
Rolex Daytona drill ring drill engraving (Photo/text: Watch House, Yan Danping)