*This article is the original content of "Sanlian Life Weekly".
If the general trend of the world is divided for a long time, it must be divided for a long time, then a woman's pants are narrow for a long time, wide for a long time, and narrow for a long time, alternating between each other. After the long reign of the narrow pencil pants came to an end, I can finally tell you that the era of the wide-leg pants has arrived.
To be honest, I'm happy about this trend. Close-fitting narrow-legged trousers are extremely picky about the figure, with a little more fat on the thighs, or a little worse leg shape, all of which are not hidden, and only Miss Kate Moss in her heyday can wear them well. More than ten years ago, she wore almost all narrow pants in street photography, with a light gray T-shirt and a pair of sunglasses that rejected people from thousands of miles away, not like a supermodel, but more like the lead singer of a rock band in Luotuo.
Street shot of Kate Moss (right).
Wide-legged pants are more suitable for those of us who are not so perfect mortals, especially those of pear-shaped bodies. The waistline is properly tucked, but the trouser legs are rippling, and the walking momentum is imposing, and passers-by have to make some room for these pants. The point is, no one can guess what the shape of the legs in the pants is, and the toned legs sculpted by Pilates and the puffy limbs that sit for a long time in the office are absolutely equal at the moment. What a democratic item!
Stills from "Friends".
The entry of wide-leg trousers into mainstream womenswear is usually recorded in the credit book of Gabrielle Chanel. Legend has it that when she traveled to Venice, she made herself a pair of elegant, wide-legged trousers in order to be able to easily board a rickety gondola. Because the material is light and soft, the silhouette is especially flexible and stretchy when the wind blows, and it is already ready for a holiday with a simple vest or sailor-striped top.
These trousers were not the first of their kind for Mademoiselle Chanel, who were originally meant to wear over their swimsuits to prevent overexposure during their beach vacations, but Chanel's audacity lies in the fact that she dared to wear them to high-class occasions with strict rules. In the 1920s, it was a pioneer feat that would have made conservatives frown. Fortunately, Mademoiselle Chanel had the energy to call for wind and rain in the fashion circle at that time, and as soon as she raised her arms, the ladies followed suit. Wide-legged pants have actually entered the mainstream field of vision in small steps.
Chanel's Cruise Collection (Source: Official Website)
Perhaps because of the noble birth, the origin has some connection with the sun, the beach, and the gondola, wide-leg pants are actually an item that is easy to wear with a holiday vibe. If you choose a smooth silk satin fabric, you must choose a style with sufficient materials and a certain thickness of the fabric. Fabrics that are too thin tend to cling to the skin when walking, and if the shape of the legs is too clear, it loses the characteristics of wide-leg pants, while the heavy fabrics with a sense of drape will produce just the right distance from the skin. In fact, such wide-leg pants do not need any complicated design, and a few quiet ruchs around the waist are expensive enough, and they are a good match with a simple solid-color racer vest or a shirt of the same fabric.
Simple and quiet cotton and linen are also common fabrics in wide-leg pants. This combination of restraint is a bit desireless in comfort. The only downside may be that it wrinkles easily, but that's not a big deal. A few years ago, while traveling on a small island in Italy, I met an old lady dressed in style, with tanned skin and four or five random necklaces hanging from her chest. There were several noticeable folds in her beige cotton and linen wide-leg pants, which were evidence that her body had interacted with her clothes, and she probably jumped, run, and even danced in circles in these pants.
Stills from "Love Only".
But there are always people who can make a new twist on this plain style. In the last two years, the hot pair of twin designers has launched a pair of extreme wide-leg pants. The waist hides fishbones, the height all the way up to the stomach, and the entire waist is wrapped properly in a very classical way. However, the pants are suddenly relaxed in an A-line shape, and the silhouette changes quite drastically. With a plain pure white cotton cloth, there is actually a fresh sense of drama. If you see a woman wearing these pants on the street, you probably want to take a few more looks.
Interestingly, although the popularity of wide-leg pants is the first thing that comes to mind these days is some Western names, I have also read a saying that Western women started wearing wide-leg pants because of the influence of the Chinese upper class. It is not impossible to think of this as the wide shirts and trousers that hide the curves of the body were firmly in vogue in China for more than a century, and gradually declined by the end of the 19th century. And today, riding on the vigorous new Chinese trend, Chinese-style wide-leg pants have also been found out of the historical camphor wood box again.
Stills from "Apocalypse".
There is a Chinese female designer who broke into Milan very early and makes polka-dot velvet wide-leg pants that are particularly good. Expensive silk velvet fabrics know how to catch the light on their own, and a little light can make the pants flow with a rippling color. The most beautiful is the slightly archaic color scheme, patina with bean green, turmeric with rust red, which in the Chinese context is reminiscent of old bronzes or yellowed frescoes, and ingeniously, such a color scheme can also be understood by foreigners, triggering associations related to the ruins of Pompeii.
2022/2023秋冬巴黎 UmaWang 女装发布会
There is actually no age limit for these Chinese velvet wide-leg pants, and mothers and daughters can share them. It is also not restricted, and it has its own advantages with sharp heels or blunt ballet shoes. The sense of wearing is even more comfortable, no different from wearing pajama pants, and it is very inclusive from vision to physical feeling.
In addition to these fluid, laid-back styles, there is another branch of wide-leg pants that is more stiff and modern, such as the khaki pants worn by Diane Keaton in the movie "Annie Hall." The silhouette of the trousers themselves borrows from the cut of men's suit pants, like the wardrobe of a male colleague with two children in his early forties in the office. She paired it with a white shirt and a sleek little waistcoat, and the polka-dot tie was half hidden in the waistcoat, which was chic and a little eccentric. As soon as the film came out, the fashionable girls of New York, London, and Paris began to imitate this somewhat boyish outfit, and even Diane Keaton herself did not expect that this look would make her famous in fashion history.
A still from "Annie Hall".
What is somewhat ironic is that more than 40 years after the movie came out, the style bloggers on Xiaohongshu began to label Diane Keaton's classic wide-leg pants as an "intellectual-style dress", but they didn't know that Diane Keaton's character in the movie had nothing to do with intellectuals, and was even teased by the male protagonist played by Woody Allen because of his lack of depth. When dressing bloggers quote movie characters, it's better to take a look at the movie itself, but that's off topic.
The structured wide-leg pants actually have another identity: the power uniform of women in the workplace. In 1966, Mr. Yves Saint Laurent transformed the men's tuxedo into a more feminine "smoking suit", with a narrow waist to emphasize the curves and trousers to make the legs appear more slender with subtle flared silhouettes. Later, photographer Helmut Newton used a timeless black-and-white photograph to make the smoking outfit a classic image that has been quoted repeatedly: a woman in the dark night, her hair meticulously combed back, holding a cigarette in her right hand and her left hand in her trouser pocket. Strong, mysterious, androgynous and indistinguishable, this almost constitutes a kind of prototype of power uniforms, after that, as far as Hillary Clinton, who is running for the presidency of the United States, and as close as Liu Tao's favorite female overlord, almost all the looks that want to embody the power of elite women are like projections of smoking suits.
Photographer Helmut Newton's 1975 smoking-style campaign for French Vogue
Once upon a time there was a female leader. She was not tall, the youngest of her rank, and she had climbed to this point with her hands and feet by virtue of her excellent brain and hot ambition. Although I often feel that her personality is too sharp, I still admire her. For every important meeting, she would wear a simple solid color shirt with smoke gray high-waisted wide-leg suit pants, and the heel of about 10 centimeters could be seamlessly hidden in the trouser leg. After wearing the wide-leg pants, her steps will be a little more bold than usual, the trouser legs rub against each other, making a "swish" sound, and the high heels hit the ground, making a "click" sound. As soon as you hear this "smack" and "click", you will know that the idlers are waiting to dodge, and there will be another fierce battle in the conference room today.
Stills from "Apocalypse".
If you don't feel the need to dress so aggressively, wide-leg pants can also be worn in a more relaxed way. Pair it with a T-shirt and sneakers for just the right amount of modernity. But the most brilliant thing in my heart is the outfit of Maggie Cheung when she walked the catwalk in Paris in 1998. A dark gray V-neck shirt is layered over a light gray crewneck shirt that hangs softly and loosely, while navy blue wide-leg pants are their own muscles. The relationship between clothing and body is inseparable, making people feel that under this layered fabric, there may be a specific woman or a wisp of poetic soul.
In 1998, Maggie Cheung was invited to the Hermès Haute Couture show at Paris Fashion Week
#阔腿裤##都市丽人##今天穿什么#