Before chili peppers were introduced to China, how to season Sichuan cuisine and other spicy-based cuisines

The following article is from the history school, written by Rachel

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In the process of the development of China's food culture, due to the differences in the geographical environment such as topography and climate in various regions, as well as the cultural environment such as food customs and cooking techniques, eight major cuisines with their own characteristics have been formed in the mainland.

These eight cuisines are Shandong cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Suzhou cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, and later Zhejiang, Hui, Hunan and Fujian cuisine, which developed to the early Qing Dynasty. Among them, Sichuan cuisine and Hunan cuisine are famous for their spicy taste, and the role of chili peppers in the dishes should not be underestimated. As a "foreign product", chili peppers were introduced to China during the Ming Dynasty, and the earliest time for people to eat chili peppers was during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. Let's take Sichuan cuisine as an example, and see how Sichuan cuisine and other cuisines, which had a great demand for spicy peppers, were seasoned before chili peppers were introduced to China.

Before chili peppers were used in Sichuan cuisine, the development of Sichuan cuisine can be divided into three stages, and each of these three stages reflects different seasoning characteristics.

1. From the pre-Qin period to the Qin and Han dynasties: there was a food culture but no outstanding regional characteristics

1. Early Sichuan cuisine sprouted

The food culture of the Bashu region has existed as early as the pre-Qin period.

It was found in the Wushan Daxi cultural site about five or six thousand years ago, and the cultural relics unearthed in the site include bowls, pots, plates, bottles, basins, bowls and other dietary pottery. In the Sanxingdui site of Guanghan, dining utensils such as tripods, kettles, reeds, bottles, plates, and cans were also found.

From this, we can see that as early as the pre-Qin period, there were tools for holding food and cooking food, and most of the utensils for storing food unearthed in many tombs of the Warring States period were exquisite and durable. Therefore, compared with the ancient period, which only cared about food consumption and did not understand decoration, the pre-Qin period was a big step in the development of food culture, and it was also the embryonic period of early Sichuan cuisine.

2 Unique Flavors – "Smelly Beauty"

Zheng Xuan, a master of scripture in the late Eastern Han Dynasty, once commented on the book "The Book of Rites and Internal Rules", in which he said: "There are deer gangsters in Yizhou today, and they have recently done this", Zheng Xuan explained that the people of Yizhou (now Sichuan, Chongqing, Yunnan and other places) hunted and killed the deer, buried the venison in the soil, and waited until the venison became rotten and smelly before digging it out and eating, and "deer gangster" is the meaning of rotten venison. The deer that Shu people like to eat is rotten venison, and the smell of that meat must be imagined.

In the "Lü's Spring and Autumn Period: The Original Flavor Chapter", it was recorded that Yi Yin said to Cheng Tang: "Those who live in water are fishy, those who are fleshy are ashamed, and those who are herbivores are fat." The smell is still beautiful, and there is a reason for it." Although this sentence emphasizes that the cook must first understand the natural attributes of the raw materials before cooking, Gao Lu of the Han Dynasty also said in the commentary: "If Shu makes sheep wax, it is beautiful with smell, and each has its own use." Sheep wax may also be the "sheep drowning" of the Han Dynasty, from which we can see that in the records and understanding of later generations, the people of Shu have a soft spot for "smelly". On the other hand, most of the foods that come from the smell are naturally rotten or fermented before being eaten.

However, "stinky as beautiful" is actually loved by the people in the underground layer of Shu, and this taste has long disappeared in the modern Sichuan cuisine system reconstructed after the Yuan and Ming dynasties, and is no longer even accepted.

3. There are no regional characteristics

In the Western Han Dynasty Yangxiong's "Shu Du Fu", it was said: "The five flavors of the husband, the sum of sweetness, the soup of spoon medicine, Jiangdong mackerel abalone, Longxi beef and sheep", here is written that there are many dishes of Sichuan cuisine at that time, and the materials are not limited to the local area but absorb the strengths of others.

In the later "Beitang Book Notes", this passage was quoted: "The sum of sweetness, the soup of peony; Jiangdong mackerel, Longxi cattle and sheep; Rice fat pig, solitary grass and lonely partridge. dove colostrum, mountain crane autumn; The burly turtle, the tax field suckling, the system is not laborable; Five meat and seven vegetables, better than pickled quail owl. Those who can nourish their blood and blood cannot be removed. Therefore, in the life of the Shu people at that time, there was no bias in the taste, it was a "harmony of five flavors", and the sources of cooking ingredients were also diverse, from Jiangdong to Longxi. At this time, Sichuan cuisine should belong to ancient Sichuan cuisine, and it does not reflect the regional characteristics that are different from those of other places.

2. From the end of the Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin dynasties to the Two Song Dynasty: the characteristics of ancient Sichuan cuisine began to emerge and gradually became a complete system

1. Sweet and heavy honey

In the food culture of the mainland, it is easy to form two dividing lines of eating habits that are "sweet in the south and salty in the north" and "spicy in the east and sour in the west".

However, there is such a record in Cao Pi's "Edict with the Courtiers": "The new city Meng is too guarded, and the taste of the guinea chicken in Shu is light, so the Shu people eat and like honey." ”

Meng Taishou of Xincheng said that the people of Shu dislike the taste of meat is too light, so they like to attach a layer of honey to the food. This is an important record of the unique taste of the Sichuan people, from which we can see the unique dietary taste preferences of the Shu people.

In modern Sichuan cuisine, honey is rarely used, and the sweet habits of Sichuan people are gone.

2. The spicy taste of "still delicious, so spicy" appears

When he arrived in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Chang Xuan said in his book "Huayang Guozhi Shu Zhi" that the taste of Shu people: "Shang taste, so spicy", at this time, Sichuan people began to pursue spicy.

Before the introduction of chili peppers into China, the spicy food eaten by Sichuan people was "spicy", and the source of "spicy" was mainly spicy food such as pepper, dogwood, ginger, garlic, onion, mustard and so on. The use of these spicy foods by the Shu people has also been frequently recorded in history. For example, in the Southern Dynasty Liang Wu Emperor period, Huang Kan's book "Rites and Yishu" has a record: "Fried dogwood, made in present-day Shu County." On the ninth day of September, the dogwood was taken, and its branches were folded, and even the fact was four or five inches wide, and one liter could be and ten liters of ointment, and it was called Root. This is the use of dogwood by the Shu people, and the Southern Song Dynasty writer Fan Chengda once ridiculed the Sichuan people's love for garlic: "The Bashu people eat raw garlic and stinky and cannot be approached."

As for why it was not until the Wei and Jin dynasties that Shu began to love spicy food, it should have a lot to do with the climate change at that time. Meteorologist Zhu Kezhen once estimated that the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were the second cold period in Chinese history, and the temperature was much lower than that of the Western Han Dynasty and the Tang Dynasty. Moreover, at the end of the Three Kingdoms, He Shao also said when he admonished Sun Hao: "Eavesdropping on the changes in the sky, since the year of the Yin and Yang errors, the four seasons are reversed, the solar eclipse is earthquake, the mid-summer frost, the classics of ginseng, are all yin and yang, and the villain is also caused by the situation." Although He Shao thought that the "yin and yang fallacy" and "midsummer frost" were the reasons for the "villain's momentum", he also saw a cold change in the climate at that time.

The love for spicy flavor in modern Sichuan cuisine has also been greatly influenced by the "good spicy" since the Wei and Jin dynasties.

3. Ancient Sichuan cuisine developed rapidly and became a complete system

Since the Sui and Tang dynasties, ancient Sichuan cuisine has achieved rapid development. In addition to the improvement of cooking techniques and the increase in the variety of Sichuan cuisine, by the Song and Song dynasties, Sichuan cuisine had developed into a complete system and a major cuisine famous in the country.

In the Qing Dynasty's book "Poetry of the Five Dynasties" records the story of Wang Quanbin going to a small temple in a mountain village in Shu to ask for food, Wang Quanbin met a drunk monk in the temple, because the monk dealt with nature Wang Quanbin did not kill him, but asked him for food. This monk took out a pot of steamed pig's head and gave it to Wang Quanbin, and what was even more surprising was that this monk actually used a poem to say the practice of steaming pig's head, which is really wonderful.

This poem "The mouth is long and the hair is short, and the fat is poured, and the medicine seedlings are eaten in the mountains for a long time." The steaming place has been wrapped in steamed leaves, and when ripe, it is poured with apricot pulp. The red and fresh elegance is called the food plate nail, and the soft and ripe is really worthy of the jade chopstick. If you compare the roots, the roots are only suitable for eating rattan. ”

The poem is naturally ingenious, but judging from the various ingredients, cooking methods and presentation in the poem, Sichuan cuisine was already ripe at that time.

Sichuan cuisine in the Song and Song dynasties was not limited to the flourishing of Shudi, and Sichuan cuisine also appeared in the Central Plains, Lingnan and Jiangnan regions. It is explained in Meng Yuanlao's "Tokyo Menghualu" that there were already many Sichuan restaurants in the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty at that time. There is a lot of food sold in these Sichuan restaurants. "Inserted meat noodles, big boiled noodles, large and small wiping meat tao, fried pork, miscellaneous fried events, raw and cooked cooked rice. "And so on makes people drool. At this time, the influence of Sichuan cuisine should not be underestimated, and it can be said that it was one of the leading cuisines at that time.

3. From the end of the Southern Song Dynasty to the middle of the Qing Dynasty: the destruction of Sichuan cuisine before its reconstruction

After several dynasties flourished in ancient Sichuan cuisine, Sichuan cuisine suffered great damage due to the invasion of Sichuan by the Mongol army at the end of the Southern Song Dynasty.

But the end of one phase also means the beginning of another. The population of Sichuan was greatly reduced by the war, and the ancient Sichuan cuisine collapsed.

In the Ming and Qing dynasties, a large number of immigrants from "Huguang filled Sichuan" poured in, and Sichuan's economy recovered to a certain extent, and under the influence of these immigrants' tastes and the local natural environment, the taste of Sichuan cuisine was gradually reconstructed, and laid the foundation for the slow rise of modern Sichuan cuisine.

During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, after the chili peppers were eaten, modern Sichuan cuisine was born, and most of the ancient Sichuan cuisine has long since disappeared in the modern Sichuan cuisine system, except for the "spicy" taste being inherited.

Fourth, summary

Before chili peppers were introduced to China, Sichuan cuisine went through three stages, and the taste also changed. But what we can find is that even without the appearance of chili peppers, Sichuan cuisine can exert its unique charm due to the influence of people's lives and the environment.

Hunan cuisine, which has a large demand for chili peppers like Sichuan cuisine, still has its own characteristics before the introduction of chili peppers, and eating spicy food is just a change in taste caused by many reasons.

Resources:

[1] Commentary on the Book of Rites, Eastern Han Dynasty, Zheng Xuan

[2] 《蜀都赋》  西汉 扬雄

[3] "Beitang Book Banknote", Tang Dynasty, Yu Shinan

(This article only represents the author's point of view and does not represent the position of this number)

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