"American-style rice balls", "hot pot beef rice balls", "raw coconut latte rice balls", what to eat during the Lantern Festival this year?

Festive Season

Raw coconut latte dumplings, Oreo dumplings, brown sugar bobo dumplings, salted egg yolk cheese dumplings, hot pot beef dumplings...... There are more and more new varieties of glutinous rice balls on the market, don't be surprised, the glutinous rice balls are far more than the classic black sesame, and it has a variety of patterns since ancient times, and it is very particular, listen to Mr. Tang Lusun said, the cream Lantern Festival of Beiping Zhengming Zhai Dumpling Shop, the rose Lantern Festival of Suzhou Yue Caifang, the chicken and vegetable dumplings of Shanghai Qiaojiazha, the crab roe Lantern Festival of Jiangsu Zhongbaozhuang, and the chicken fat rice balls of Sichuan Lai Tangyuan...... It's all fragrant and delicious.

Nowadays, the Lantern Festival is called "Lantern Festival" in the north, and "Tangyuan", "Tangtang" and "Yuanzi" in the south.

In this regard, Mr. Tang Lusun's mentality is quite open, and he never thinks of himself as an "old Beijinger", as evidenced by the story: Pu Dong, the owner of the red bean restaurant, refused to eat the Southern Lantern Festival at first, and at the instigation of Tang Lusun, he went to Qiaojiazha in Shanghai, and ate delicious sand balls, and also said that this is "the donkey rolling in the south". If it weren't for our first taste of Southern Cuisine, we might have missed it for the rest of my life. ”

Regarding the Lantern Festival, in addition to the Lantern Festival itself, Tang Lusun has a lot to tell - Xu Shengkui, who was rich and wealthy in Liyuan, was provoked by others, ate too much Lantern Festival, and had diarrhea; Yuan Xiangcheng's confidant Yang Shixiang ate Lantern Festival food when he was a child, and was rescued by a master and brought back to life - the spread of such stories is due to Tang Lusun's surprisingly rich experience in his life:

He was born in a noble family, he was the grandnephew of Concubine Zhen and Concubine Jin, and he was in and out of the court since he was a child, and he was accustomed to tasting the curiosities of home cooking. He writes about food and is known as "the first person in China to talk about food"; he writes about folk customs and history, and he is even more knowledgeable and easy-to-use, and his writing "has the same value as "The Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival".

In 2024, Ideal Country will launch a new edition of "The Complete Works of Tang Lusun", which will rearrange the eleven books originally included in chronological order according to the theme, and at the same time supplement the missing articles, precious images, newspaper echoes, family history and other content, and compile them into two parts: "The Taste of the World" (all four volumes) and "Looking at the North and South" (all five volumes).

In this set of Tang Lusun's complete works, there are such delicacies and secret anecdotes. Today's articles are excerpted from "Gossip Lantern Festival" and "Lantern Festival Whispers" in Tang Lusun's "Looking at the North and South: The Scenery of the Year" and "The Donkey Rolling in the South" in "The Taste of the World: Eating in the North and South".

Tomorrow is the Lantern Festival, I wish you all a happy holiday in advance, eat and drink well, and "eat what you want"!

The following content is excerpted from "Taste of the World" and "Looking at the North and South"

On the fifteenth day of the first lunar month, Shangyuan Festival is also called "Lantern Festival". Chinese custom, from north to south, to eat Lantern Festival on the day of the Lantern Festival. Eating Lantern Festival comes from ancient times, it is said that it has been quite popular since the Northern Song Dynasty, but it was not called "Lantern Festival" at first but "Floating Yuanzi", and it was renamed "Lantern Festival" in the Ming Dynasty. Although the northern and southern provinces of China eat Lantern Festival, the names of the practices are different, the north is called "Lantern Festival", and some places in the south are called "Tangyuan", and it is also called "Tangdang Yuanzi". Yuan Shikai Hongxian ascended the throne, because of the homonym of "Lantern Festival" and "Yuan Xiao", the lip color was not good, and he was stunned to give an order and ordered everyone to change the name to "soup ball". Beiping Jiulongzhai didn't pay attention, wrote a red note of "Xintian Assorted Lantern Festival" at the door, and was beaten by the Military Police Inspectorate, which was a joke for a while.

The Lantern Festival is sold in the north, only sweet, and the Lantern Festival filling is nothing more than sugar, osmanthus, sesame, bean paste, and jujube paste. There are many tricks in the south, chicken, vegetable meat, chicken fat, assortment, all kinds of tricks. There is a northerner who came to the south for the first time, and someone invited him to eat fresh meat Lantern Festival, he thought that Jiangmi jujube is called zongzi, and sesame jujube paste stuffing is Lantern Festival, no matter how you let it, it will never be imported. He pretends to be good and stubborn, but in fact, he has no such blessing. Until now, if the older northerners are allowed to eat vegetable and meat Lantern Festival, they still think it is weird!

Although the author grew up in the north, he will never set up his own barriers and be partial in terms of food. The southern Lantern Festival is to roll out the glutinous rice flour skin first, regardless of the sweet and salty stuffing wrapped and rounded, the north will make the stuffing into solid square cubes first, soak it in water and shake it in a dustpan containing Jiang rice flour (glutinous rice flour), and then soak it and shake it. This kind of Lantern Festival is round, but the board is sluggish but not soft, compared to the loose glutinous skin of the Lantern Festival in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, I really feel that the north is inferior to the south. There is a kind of cream Lantern Festival in Beiping Zhengming Zhai Dumpling Shop, the filling is mixed with cream (in fact, it is the butter transported from Mongolia, after they process and refine, it is called cream), and the boiled Lantern Festival is self-contained, and the surface and the inside are clear. In addition, there is the honey stuffed Lantern Festival of Guishun Zhai in Xu Street, Tianjin, which is pure honey plus white raisins and green and red silk, which is smooth and smooth, and has a different flavor. As for the general Lantern Festival, according to my conscience, the Northern Lantern Festival is too rough, and it is not as delicate and colorful as the Southern Lantern Festival!

"Festival at the Table"

There is a tea shop in Suzhou called "Yue Cai Fang", which is said to be a branch of Cai Zhi Zhai, famous for its stir-fried rose water. The so-called rose water fried is rose melon seeds, you go to the store to buy rose water fried, the store will know that you are a local in Suzhou. During the Spring Festival, they added rose Lantern Festival to their store, and the Lantern Festival was cooked very small, and the blue smoke musk deer in the mouth was eaten to the mouth, which was unique and soft, which was enough to prove that Suzhou was a place where you know how to eat and know how to eat.

When Ma Chaojun was the mayor of Nanjing, he invited the city government to celebrate the Spring Festival one year, and used Qiaojiazha rice balls to entertain guests as a beautiful talk, and since then Qiaojiazha has become more famous, and even international friends have heard of its great name! Qiaojiazha's Lantern Festival stuffing is sweet and fragrant, splashing teeth and sweet; salty paste is moist and fragrant, and it is fat but not greasy. In addition, there is a kind of chicken and camellia filling, the pulp dissolves the blue liquid, it is more delicious, and the sand balls are fine-colored and different, and only this one is allowed to be called delicious.

During the Anti-Japanese War, some diners went to Qiaojiazha in the city to eat rice balls, and they were not patient with the Japanese soldiers' cross-examination, so they opened a branch on Lafeide Road. Zheng Yimei and Zhou Shoujuan wrote several literary writers and named it Mandarin Duck Pavilion. In order to please customers, the boss makes sweet and salty rice balls, selects materials, and strives for perfection. Recalling the time when I was tired and sitting, the pride and joy of the fragrant feast, no matter what the taste of the glutinous rice balls was, the past was like a dream, and this place was no longer available.

"Festival at the Table"

Before the Anti-Japanese War, Pu Dong, the owner of the Red Bean Pavilion, known as the fifth master of Dong, came to Shanghai from Nanjing, just in time for the Spring Festival, and he wanted to eat the Lantern Festival. Chen Daoan, a famous ticket in Shanghai, and Zang Boyong, a famous doctor, were all present, and they unanimously advocated going to Qiaojiazha to eat rice balls. Dong Wu said: "In Nanjing, it is naturally the only few southern friends of the horse's head is Zhan, for a while the original soup casserole of Liuhuachun is good, and for a while the Xiaolongbao dumplings of Qifang Pavilion are wonderful, after tasting it, I only feel that the oil is heavy and greasy, and Lusun in Beiping is famous for eating, today we will let him raise it!"

Since the purpose is to eat Lantern Festival, I'm afraid that no one can cover Qiaojiazha. So the four of us went straight to Qiaojiazha. As soon as he took a seat, the boss immediately made a pot of good Tuo tea and sent a plate of sand balls because Zang Boyong had cured his old lady's leg disease. Dong Wu ate three pieces in a row, thinking that this is a fine taste of donkey rolling in the south (donkey rolling is a kind of sweet food sold in the temple fair in Beiping). At first, he was only willing to eat the Lantern Festival of washing sand, and then he came to see that we had a lot of food and relish, and he scooped one to taste, only to realize that the vegetable and corn rice also has a unique jade and sweetness. If it weren't for our first taste of Southern Cuisine, we might have missed it for the rest of my life.

In the suburbs of Taixian County, Jiangsu, there is a small town called Zhongbaozhuang, the river is full of purple crabs, the meat is full of cream, there is a Qifang Zhai Ping Su sells morning tea, the dim sum is mainly based on xiaolongbao, dumplings, white soup noodles, before the Spring Festival, add crab roe Lantern Festival, only to eat in the hall, cook the Lantern Festival and dip it in a special coriander marinade to eat, the golden pulp is beautiful, far better than the jade trout soup. Yang Naimei, a famous movie actress at the time, once made a special trip to Zhongbaozhuang to eat crab roe dumplings, and when she returned to Shanghai, she praised how the crab roe dumplings of Qifangzhai were beautiful.

Zheng Zhengqiu, the star film company, loves hairy crabs the most, and Jiumu Zhongbaozhuang's boiled crab oil is famous, and he is even more salivating after listening to it. It's a pity that the company's business is too busy around the Spring Festival to be separated, so he specially sent his young monarch Zheng Xiaoqiu and his daughter-in-law Ni Hongyan to cross the river to Zhongbaozhuang to buy them in Shanghai to satisfy their hunger. Helplessly, the boss of Qifangzhai insisted that this kind of crab roe glutinous rice balls was only eaten in the hall, and was not sold out, and later said some good things through the round, and told him that it was the boss of the Shanghai Film Company who came to sell 60 crab roe glutinous rice balls and a can of coriander marinade. Back in Shanghai, although a few of them were overflowing due to the tossing and turning of the boat, the taste was poor, but after Zheng Zhengqiu ate it, he was still full of praise, thinking that it was worth spending a lot of Sichuan money to be able to eat such wonderful rice balls.

Chengdu snacks in Sichuan are both numerous and refined, which can be compared with Beiping. During the Anti-Japanese War, all those who lived in Chengdu had a Lantern Festival every time they had a Lantern Festival, and no one did not think of "Lai Tangyuan". His house was originally an inconspicuous snack bar on Zongfu Street, with a knee-only kitchen layout downstairs and a dumpling shop upstairs, and a workshop for making dumplings upstairs. Wrapped rice balls, with a wooden basket, descended from the square hole in the floor, a few small bells tied to the rope, jingle jingle to notify the people on the stove downstairs to catch it, compared to the current Taiwanese restaurant to cook, with music and electric bells to call people, that is simply outdated. Lai Tangyuan Chicken Fat Glutinous Rice Balls, the filling is indeed made of pure chicken fat, and there is a layer of transparent grease as glass in the filling of the glutinous rice balls, the taste is clear and clear, and you can feel that it is not lard when you enter the mouth.

The real picture of "Looking at the North and South".

During the Hongxian period, there was also a joke about eating Lantern Festival. Min Erchang, one of Yuan Xiangcheng's strategists, was famous for his love of eating Lantern Festival in the Yuan Shogunate, and often used the number of people who ate Lantern Festival to win and gamble with his colleagues. One day, Min talked to a few people about the story of eating Lantern Festival in the previous dynasty, and was talking about the eyebrows flying and dancing happily, but he didn't expect Xiang Cheng to step into the signing room, and heard a few consecutive "Yuan Xiao", which violated Emperor Yuan's taboo, and it happened that the Japanese were looking for him everywhere awkward, and he was unhappy, and wanted to fix Min Erchang and get angry with him. Fortunately, Yang Yunshi, the internal history, saw that the signs were wrong, and he made three turns and two turns with clever words, so Yuan issued a warrant to change the name of the Lantern Festival to Tangyuan.

The people of Beiping are used to calling it the Lantern Festival, and once they changed it to Tangyuan, they feel that they are not used to it and it is not pleasant. The young owner of Zhengmingzhai on Qianmen Street, who was busy buying and selling on the Lantern Festival counter, helped the counter to take care of the business, and said "Lantern Festival" by the way, but it was Yuan Xiangcheng's big celebrity Lei Zhenchun who bought the Lantern Festival, and he was beaten twice, and he also lost 200 Lantern Festival. Waiting for Hong Xian's death, the second year of the Lantern Festival, at the door of Zhengming Zhai, there is a big red paper and black sign on one side, writing "Benpu special assorted Lantern Festival" eight big characters, "Lantern Festival" The two words are written very big, I heard that it is the masterpiece of that Shaodong!

"The Year of the Chinese"

There are two friends who love to play tricks on people in Beiping Liyuan Xing, Yin Binkui (stage name Xiaokuiguan) and Zhu Binxian, both of whom are brothers in the Bin Qing class run by Yu Zhenting. One day, their brothers happened to meet Xu Shengkui and Quan Shengfu from Fu Liancheng, who were also eating Lantern Festival at the stall on Qianmen Street. Zhu Binxian knew that Xu Shengkui, nicknamed "Da Lao Hei", could eat Lianghong, and he was the temper of the grass chicken king, and he was bad, but he told his senior brother about the mountain.

He said: "People say that we northerners eat a lot, but in fact, it's not necessarily true, let's take the Lantern Festival as an example, although Wang Huchen is a martial artist, but he has thin arms and legs, and he can't see that he eats amazingly." I saw him eat four bowls (four pieces per bowl) of black sesame Lantern Festival in one go, and he also found two hawthorn fillings, a total of eighteen Lantern Festival, let our brothers eat, and they can't eat it!"

When Mao Shilai was recruited to perform in Shanghai, Xu Shengkui was the backstage manager for him, and Xu Shengkui was no stranger to Xiao Wang Huchen. It doesn't matter if this competition is a bowl, one bowl after another, five bowls of Lantern Festival will be eaten in a while, and two more than Wang Huchen will eat. But as soon as I got home, I ran to the hut once in a while, and I tossed all night. The next day, Pang Xuan in "Rouge Tiger" in the garden had to take leave, and later it was Mao Shilai who secretly told the reporter Wu Zongyou, and the story spread.

In the last years of Guangxu, he was the governor of Zhili, Yuan Xiangcheng's confidant Yang Shixiang, when he was four or five years old, there was a Lantern Festival one year, and the whole family reunited to eat Lantern Festival. The child is gluttonous, stagnant, from a minor illness to a major illness, and then the treatment is ineffective, tamed to the dying, so he has to be carried by the nurse to the outer living room, and when the child breathes, he will be taken out and buried. It happened that at this time, a coal blackman who delivered coal walked by the living room and asked the reason, and he said that he could cure it, don't be annoyed if he dies, and don't laugh if he is good. The nurse knew that the child was no longer saved, so she let him try it.

The coal black asked for a thriving briquette stove, and took out a large needle eight inches long from his bosom, and a red pompom was decorated with the nose of the needle, and the red color almost turned black. He took off his two old cotton shoes, the soles of which were hot to the fire, rubbed the needle twice on the soles, and then choked the little young master's chest, telling the nurse to tell him as soon as she saw the pompom tremble. When he had finished speaking, he sat down on the threshold and smoked a dry cigarette. After about a bag of cigarettes, the pom-pom suddenly moved, and after a few minutes the pom-pom trembled. He estimated that it was time, so he helped the child half up and half sat down, slapped the back of the head, followed by a rub on the chest, the child cried out a mouthful of thick phlegm, and immediately woke up, and then the size was relieved, and the little life was picked up from then on. This is a fact that Yang Shixiang almost died when he ate Lantern Festival in his childhood.

The Yang family is a family of food, the Yang Mansion also has the name of the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and later he went to Yuhuatai as the head of the house, according to him, the Yang Mansion is the most taboo people to send the Lantern Festival, and the Yang family eats spring rolls and does not eat the Lantern Festival every Lantern Festival. Later, Yang Yuxun married the third princess of Emperor Yuan, and neither of them ate Lantern Festival, probably because of their origins.

The real picture of "The Taste of the World".

Beiping is the capital of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, and everything pays attention to the system, so it has also developed the habit of eating from time to time and not eating from time to time. If you don't go to Chongyang, you don't sell flower cakes, and if you don't bake shabu in Liqiu, you can't go on the market, so the lights fall on the eighteenth day of the first month of the Shangyuan Lantern Festival, not only the official dim sum shops don't sell Lantern Festival, but even the Lantern Festival stalls on the street are like morning stars. As soon as you enter the February Gate, you want to eat Lantern Festival, so you have to see you next year.

Although there is no Lantern Festival in Beiping as soon as the first month is over, there are exceptions. There is a nunnery called Sansheng Nunnery in Desheng Gate, the vegetarian food in the nunnery is fresh and refreshing, it is praised by all, especially in February, they will offer a bowl of assorted rice dumplings to entertain the donor. It is called the dumpling, which is actually a mixed vegetarian stuffing Lantern Festival, and the lotus root in the mouth is fragrant and lush, and the pepper is like a pepper wind, compared with the general sweet and salty Lantern Festival, it has a different taste. At that time, the wife of Wu Ziyu of Zhongzhou in the Bafang Wind and Rain Association was the big benefactor of the Sansheng Nunnery, as long as she went to the New Year's Mansion, the Assorted Garden, Wu Yushuai's Mansion in the New Year, and talked with Yu Shuai about two games, probably the Assorted Lantern Festival of the Sansheng Nunnery would be taken out for guests. In the twenty or thirty years since I came to Taiwan, every year around the Lantern Festival, the streets and alleys are full of Lantern Festival sellers, which proves that the people are rich and rich, and they have what they want to eat.

"The Taste of the World" and "North and South" real shots

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