The innovative research and development of cosmetic raw materials is like a long-distance race, which may not reach the destination in the short term, and it will consume a lot of energy, but if you don't start, you will never reach the target destination.
"China Cosmetics" Magazine|Zhang Ting
There is a "top student" in the filing of new cosmetic raw materials.
According to the public information of the State Food and Drug Administration, from 2021 to 2023, according to the statistics of the filing person, Shenzhen Viqi Technology Co., Ltd. (formerly known as Shenzhen Viqi Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd., hereinafter referred to as "Vichy Technology") has completed the filing of 8 new raw materials, and is the enterprise with the most new cosmetic raw material filing numbers.
Vichy Technology has successively completed the filing of new raw materials for β-alanylhydroxyprolyl diaminobutyric acid benzylamine, nicotinyl tetrapeptide-30, oligopeptide-215, β-nicotinamide mononucleotide, tripeptide-105, coropeptide, acetyl hexapeptide-95 amide, and caffeoyl hexapeptide-9, all of which have entered the monitoring period.
How to develop "top students" for the filing of new raw materials?
Opportunities are reserved for those who are prepared
"Everyone knows that it is difficult to record new raw materials, and many friends have also asked me how to record 8 new raw materials in 3 years, in fact, it took us far more than 3 years. Ding Wenfeng, founder and chairman of Shenzhen Weiqi Technology Co., Ltd., told China Cosmetics magazine.
Ding Wenfeng, founder and chairman of Shenzhen Weiqi Technology Co., Ltd
The difficulty of filing new raw materials is reflected in the strict review of data. According to the Administrative Measures for the Registration and Filing of Cosmetics, the filing person shall submit information indicating the safety and quality controllability of the new cosmetic raw materials in accordance with the legal procedures and requirements.
"Not only is it difficult to develop raw materials, but also the cost and time required for the filing of raw materials are also thresholds. An industry insider told China Cosmetics magazine, "The filing of new raw materials needs to be traceable, the data requirements are complete, and the efficacy of relevant raw materials needs to be tested for efficacy, such as stability data, efficacy verification records, use concentration, safe use, impurity content, etc." ”
After graduating from Peking University with a Ph.D. in peptide medicinal chemistry, Ding Wenfeng first engaged in the research and development of new peptide drugs, and then founded Vichy Technology, which applied the concept and technology of new peptide drug research and development to cosmetic peptide innovation.
In the face of the achievements of the "top students" for the record of new raw materials, he said with emotion that the achievements of Vicky Technology now stem from the fact that it has been determined and insisted on doing application innovation and material innovation very early, and insisted on doing difficult but correct things, so as to seize the opportunity in the current era of encouraging innovation and achieve sustainable growth and breakthroughs.
"Before the filing policy came down, we used cutting-edge new drug R&D technology to develop new structure cosmetic peptides, and today, we have more than 100 innovative peptide molecules in reserve. After the implementation of the new regulations, we have declared new raw materials for the results of research and development over the years, and a total of 8 new raw materials have been recorded, of which 6 are global innovative raw materials. ”
These more than 100 innovative peptides, including various linear peptides, monocyclic peptides, bicyclic peptides, and polycyclic peptides, cover anti-wrinkle firming, soothing repair, whitening and other effects, among which there are many innovative peptides developed based on new targets.
Erasin0003 (record name: β-alanyl hydroxyprolyl diaminobutyric acid benzylamine) is a global innovative peptide raw material created by Vicky Technology for 6 years. It has been verified by efficacy tests to significantly promote collagen synthesis in types I, III, IV, VII. and XVII, with significant firming and anti-aging effects. According to reports, the ingredient has been applied by many brands at home and abroad.
"This ingredient is very distinctive, with immediate and long-term anti-aging effects, which is very suitable for the current consumers' demand for double the effect for one penny, and has a very good reputation at home and abroad. Ding Wenfeng said.
R&D and promotion are not wrong
Vichy Technology was founded in 2011, when the Chinese cosmetics market was still very unaware of peptides. In order to win market opportunities, Vichy Technology continues to invest in peptide research and development internally, and does a lot of marketing work externally.
Ding Wenfeng realized early on that a sound and rigorous R&D system is very important to improve the success rate of R&D innovation, so Weiqi Technology has built a systematic R&D system, such as the establishment of CADD&AIDD molecular structure innovation platform, characteristic resource R&D platform, biosynthesis platform, and the creation of quality research, efficacy evaluation, and application research laboratories.
The working scene of the R&D laboratory of Vicky Technology
On the basis of building an internal R&D system, Vichy Technology further improves R&D efficiency with an open co-creation mechanism. At present, Vicky Technology has carried out R&D cooperation with more than 10 universities and research institutes at home and abroad, such as cooperating with the Shenzhen Institute of Advanced Technology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences to develop a variety of biosynthetic innovative ingredients, jointly carrying out research on China's native plants with Southwest University for Nationalities, and cooperating with the Kunming Institute of Zoology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences to develop repair ingredients.
In 2014, the Kunming Institute of Zoology of the Chinese Academy of Sciences identified the skin repair peptide from the salamander, and Vichy Technology conducted research and reconstruction, and finally obtained the repair ingredient that can replace EGF in compliance. This ingredient is ideal for people with sensitive skin and aesthetic treatments.
Behind the innovation, a lot of promotion is still needed. In the early days of its establishment, Vichy Technology did a lot of market education work on peptide raw materials, and launched the popular science book "Skin Active Peptides". And held seminars in many cities across the country, and participated in exhibitions around the world. After the filing of new raw materials, Weiqi actively responded to the innovative research and development of raw materials, and increased publicity efforts to let more people know about China's independent innovative raw materials, and called for high-quality innovation in the industry.
Up to now, the innovative achievements of Vicky Technology have been widely used in China, and are also exported to overseas, covering more than 20 countries and regions around the world.
"Building a Chinese Raw Material Brand"
In the past three years, a total of 77 domestic and foreign companies have successfully completed the filing of new cosmetic raw materials, showing a trend of increasing year by year, and the number of companies participating in this "technology competition" may far exceed this number. This reflects the industry's passion for innovation and the recognition of the value of new raw materials.
"Innovation is the hard but right thing to do. Ding Wenfeng said, just imagine, if there is no continuous flow of innovative ingredients, then cosmetics can only be arranged and combined in a limited number of ingredients, and it is inevitable that they will fall into the vicious involution of volume prices and concepts, "Only real material innovation and source innovation can provide more choices for high-quality innovation in the industry, so as to effectively meet the demands of consumers in pursuit of beauty." ”
Vicky Technology product showroom
Vichy Technology has experienced the long-distance race of innovative research and development of new raw materials, and has also reaped fruitful fruits. In 2023, Vicky Technology has set a new development goal to become a world-class Chinese raw material brand, and the team is extending the concept of innovative peptide research and development to the development of Chinese characteristic ingredients and greener and more sustainable synthetic biological ingredients.
In the face of the maturing Chinese cosmetics market, Ding Wenfeng is more confident about the future: "The long-distance race of innovation and R&D may not reach the destination in the short term, and it will consume a lot of energy, but if you don't start, you will never reach the end of the goal." Vicky will insist on exploring on the road of innovation and R&D, and also call on the industry to invest in innovation and attach importance to R&D. I believe that with the participation and persistence of more innovators, China's cosmetics innovation can also become a world business card. ”