After the summer dopamine and the autumn Maillard, the fashion for winter has its own name - Gray wear.
Of course, All Black will not be completely out, but this deep winter, the real protagonist seems to have become All Gray. The gray from beginning to end, ambiguous, flowing, and obscure, like the surface of a lake in the early morning. Gray is good, that is, whoever wears it, the objects around him seem to lower the brightness, and the person himself is highlighted.
▲The row Spring 2023（左）；Thom Browne（右）。
It is said that all black is a wicked girl, and her aura is full of aura, but sometimes I feel that the evil girl of all gray is not bad.
The texture of all gray is quieter than black, and the evil women who wear gray are cold, intelligent, and not afraid that people will find them boring, because their spiritual barriers have always been strict. The so-called "big women" are not necessarily outgoing, and their sense of strength is sometimes as restrained and firm as gray cashmere.
▲Damir Doma Spring 2016春夏米兰时装周（左）；Christian Dior 2017秋冬高级定制发布秀（右）。
I've always loved Kendall's outfit. The gray neutral and tightly wrapped cut has a unique chemistry, rigorous and precise fragrance.
In the past few months, it has been very popular to talk about quiet luxury, but Kendall has personally explained that the minimalist large color block outfit is not necessarily a boring and conservative "quiet" luxury, on the contrary, her "luxury" is quite noisy, it is arrogant and domineering sexy. And this outfit, if not gray, would not have this delicate sense of balance.
▲Kendall Jenner，2023（左）；Ralph Lauren 1995年秋冬秀场（右）。
In fact, Kendall is quite good at wearing gray, and when she looks at her street photography, she often uses light and dark gray to match. This set is made of a gray shawl jacket with silver hair and white ties, and I feel that her whole temperament is lightened because of this.
▲Kendall Jenner,2023。
The same effect was demonstrated by Angelina Jolie. Angelina is also a typical large-volume beauty, and deterrence is her best rose and weapon.
But Julie, who was dressed in gray, had a soft temperament, like a piece of gold and stone suddenly having a loose and soft wool fabric. But this softness is not the kind of softness that retreats, but the tenacity of Mother Earth. No wonder, everyone will say - gray, it's the gray of a big woman.
▲Angelina Jolie,2016。
Gray has always been known as a "genderless color", but it is different from the red and black used to portray big women, and it is a more calm and calm "big woman color". It is never a rich existence, it is more like a foggy preciousness.
As early as the end of the last century, the old fashion house Prada used gray to portray big women. Prada's pride is here, when simple and crisp grey knits can be found on the runway, creating some of the world's most fashionable "nerds".
Who says haute couture isn't for everyday wear? Prada's grey is suitable for almost everyone, it's the whisper of a coffee break in the library, the spicy vanilla you smell in a midnight café.
▲Prada runway 1996（左）；Prada runway 2001（右）。
Prada brings this bookish grey to 2023 as well. Grey is still their signature color. Prada-esque nerds are not textbook intellectuals.
They were more like the people who would come home in the wee hours of the morning, take off their blazers, reveal the proper gray cashmere, and neatly open a bottle of tequila to accompany last night's verses.
▲Prada runway 2023
Miuccia Prada, the intellectual woman of the fashion world, has stuck to this nerdy "Gray" aesthetic in a form of piety. She often wears gray, and does not look dull, but has her own unique quirkiness.
▲Miuccia Prada in Miu Miu 2022
I have to say that Miuccia's playful and casual wear in gray is also perfectly inherited from Miu Miu's beautiful clothes. In recent years, Miu Miu has still been very popular, and it can only be said that it is very popular and necessary. She is like the rebellious but pampered little daughter of Prada's family, who can always digest the most upright elements into the girl's taste.
I saw a sentence before, what is a girl? A girl is never docile and flattering, and a girlish feeling is to resist the world alone, to rebel against the rules, and to be a backbone. This is actually a Miu-style girlishness, to wear gender-neutral gray, but also to wear a suit that looks solemn and well-cut, but the girl's mind is hidden in the distressed denim miniskirt.
▲Miu Miu runway 2023
In fact, in addition to these two, many big-name fashion houses also have a preference for gray.
Hermes contributed to the "intellectual gray", which is still regarded as a classic, and gray is also known as the most appropriate color for interpreting intellectual sensuality. Unlike the gray image that has always been associated with dull, low-key, rational rather than funny, Hermes is gray to the core.
It's gray and beautiful, and it's beautiful because it hides the core of beauty, making people wonder if the beautiful women in gray have a jazz album of the last century in their home, or some mysterious detective novel columnist.
▲Hermes runway 1990s
Sometimes I wonder, why is gray so fashionable? Probably the answer is because gray is completely inclusive. It's not a fashion color in the traditional sense, it's a permanent silence, it's the scent of a book, it's the transparent touch of the winter air.
And such a neutral sex appeal is particularly charming in women, it is like a layer of mist and aura, wrapping the brisk souls of women.
Giorgio Armani also used gray on the runway of the last century, and he used it very well. Gray silhouette smoking suit, gray blazer, gray office skirt, Armani personally tells everyone that sexiness has nothing to do with skin exposure, sexiness is the undercurrent surging in the calm waves, and the warmth on the inside of the iron-gray fabric.
This gray is precise, cold, and dangerous. It is the gray of the mathematician, and the omitted part after the decimal point is the subtlety.
▲Giorgio Armani runway, 1990s
Interestingly, different brands also have their own attitudes when it comes to expressing ash. Like the ash of Lemaire, the originator of our sense of relaxation, it has the olive flavor of summer, thick and faint, like the border of oil painting.
There's nothing more appealing than the dust of winter covering the dust of the sun, and Lemaire clearly knows it. Crisp tailoring and ambiguous colors are what make Lemaire so attractive.
Lemaire 2024 (Lemaire runway 2020)
Like another minimalist fashion, The Row's gray is a little subtly different - gray is like a prism that designers love to use, reflecting the brand's luminosity.
The row is bland, cold, and never boring, and naturally handy to use gray. They have never been rotten "old money", but souls who are not bound by labels.
▲The row 2014（左）；The row runway 2019（右）。
Praise gray, add a layer of grayscale on any color, and it will have a worn-in texture. Gray has endless layers, and its decoding is fluid. In fact, wearing gray does not have to be a fashion house, and wearing gray in daily life is still beautiful, and it is a breath of light air that can be revealed in a dull winter day.
So, this winter, how do you plan to wear the gray pieces you haven't touched in your wardrobe in a long time?