Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are two of the most recognizable brands in watchmaking and have been around for many years. Both companies have an impressive heritage and are still family-owned businesses today and are flexible enough to meet any challenges in the future.
But what is the difference between these two brands? What are their strengths and weaknesses? Which performs better in terms of craftsmanship, technology, and design?
Quality & Craftsmanship
There is no doubt that both brands excel in terms of quality and craftsmanship. That's where these brands are famous. When you take a closer look at the watches offered and their various complications, things become very clear.
The two brands introduced pocket watches with complications shortly after their founding, followed soon after by complicated watches. As early as 1892, Audemars Piguet introduced the first wristwatch with a minute repeater. Patek Philippe introduced the first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar in 1925.
Both brands are leading the way when it comes to combining numerous complications into a single watch. Adding additional complications not only doubles the complexity of the watch, but also increases the difficulty of making it exponentially. Both mechanisms need to be integrated into the movement so as not to interfere with each other or take up too much space. Patek Philippe, in particular, has already proven itself to be excellent in this field with several record-breaking feats.
▲百达翡丽 ref. 4968G-010。
Take, for example, the 1932 Grand Complication, which held the title of the world's most complicated pocket watch until 1989, before being surpassed by another Patek Philippe with 33 complications.
Audemars Piguet did not participate in this competition, focusing on other innovations, including the development of novel stopping devices. The proof is in the technical details: Patek Philippe places a high value on tradition, while Audemars Piguet puts innovation first.
However, for both brands, quality manufacturing is by no means limited to the movement itself. These watches as a whole are examples of fine craftsmanship. From the belt to the case, each piece has been carefully crafted to be a jewel in its own right, and the hand-painted numerals on some of the Patek Philippe dials give it a particularly romantic feel.
▲Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Women's Frost Gold Watch.
In contrast, Audemars Piguet is known for its collaborations with exceptional personalities, such as Carolina Bucci, an exceptional goldsmith. The Frosted Gold Royal Oak is not only unique, it is also a testament to the beauty of time-tested craftsmanship in modern timepieces.
Features and technology
Both brands are driven by the pursuit of excellence, which means that they always come out with better and better watches, but this also affects the way they wear them. Are they waterproof? Absolutely, but here we don't favor deliberately testing them. Patek Philippe watches also require regular maintenance to ensure their proper functioning. Ideally, every two years.
Of course, repairing such a complex watch is not an easy task.
The higher the complexity, the more the watch needs to be protected from shocks or other external influences. If you're thinking about buying, think about whether you want a more robust watch for everyday wear, such as a Royal Oak watch, or a watch with unusual complications, such as a Patek Philippe World Time watch that requires regular servicing by a professional.
Design & Style
Both collections contain dress watches and elegant sports watches for any occasion. Patek Philippe prefers more elegant, subtle shapes, while Audemars Piguet has a distinctly sportier look. In fact, sometimes it's best to look away from a brand's strengths and look for your favorite watch.
Flagship model: Royal Oak & Nautilus
The similarities and differences between the two brands are equally evident in the way they approach their flagship models: the Royal Oak and the Nautilus.
Both watches have a similar origin story. The Royal Oak was designed by Zunda for Audemars Piguet in 1972. Typical features include an octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws and a checked dial pattern. With a diameter of 39 mm and an original price of about $3,000, it not only seemed unusually large for its time, but it was also one of the most expensive steel watches to date.
▲爱彼皇家橡树计时码表 ref. 25960BC. OO.1185BC.01。
In 1976, Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus, also developed by Zunda. With a diameter of 42 mm, this watch is even more expensive than the Royal Oak. It has a slightly different design, and although it shares an octagonal bezel, its sides are curved outwards and there are horizontal stripes on the dial. Border screws are not to be found on this beautiful watch.
Both watches were great successes. However, when the value and attention of the classic three-needle stainless steel Nautilus became too high, Patek Philippe chose to discontinue the model in order to direct more interest to the brand's more sophisticated watches, which were more in line with Patek Philippe's stylistic tradition.
In contrast, Audemars Piguet has taken the opposite approach, expanding the Royal Oak collection, placing it front and center of the brand's portfolio. They have also kept pace with the times with special editions, such as the famous "DJ version" with an equalizer dial pattern.
Pricing and value preservation
For Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, price is secondary. Objectively speaking, it makes no sense to spend such a high price to buy a three-pin stainless steel watch. After all, these are just "simple" watches that show the time. The same goes for Patek Philippe's models with a wide range of complications, and most of the products with the same features can be found at cheaper prices from other manufacturers.
▲百达翡丽鹦鹉螺 ref. 5711/1A-010。
But from an emotional standpoint, it doesn't get much better than that. When you buy one of these timepieces, you are buying the highest quality and 100 years of history. Is this necessary, no. But that's exactly what appeals to luxury watch lovers.
These timepieces, especially the classics, are not only highly valuable, but they also increase in value over time. This means that watches from both brands can be excellent collectibles and potential investments.
Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet: Final Thoughts
Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet watches have long been considered the pinnacle of watchmaking, and this is unlikely to change anytime soon. Both brands offer watches with unmatched technology and design. Patek Philippe puts tradition and family first, while Audemars Piguet shifts to a slightly more progressive and lifestyle-oriented direction.
原文来源:Chrono24
Note: The views expressed in this article are those of the author
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