In December, the cold wave hit, and Nanjing people once again experienced the feeling of freezing hands and feet. At the clothing counters of many shopping malls, down jackets are placed in a prominent position, and more and more customers choose to try them on. Since April 2022, the new national standard for down apparel has been implemented, requiring merchants to replace "down content" with "down content" when labeling. The Modern Express reporter visited and learned that the vast majority of down jackets sold in the mall have adopted the new national standard, and most of the down content is 85% or 90%, and a few are below 80%. However, there are still a small number of down jackets in stock that implement the old national standard on the market, and consumers need to keep their eyes open and choose carefully.
Reporter's visit: Turn over the water and wash the label to see the "down content", and there are still a few old national standard down jackets on sale
△ A brand down jacket store
△ The fashion brand mainly promotes a high-top 90 down down jacket
On December 2, a reporter from Modern Express saw in a shopping mall near Zhujiang Road that a fashion brand featured an outdoor series of down jackets, and the advertising in the store indicated "Gao Peng 90 goose down". There is also a workwear down jacket of the same brand, which is placed on the outermost side and is priced at 2790 yuan. As can be seen from the clothing tag, the down jacket is filled with duck down and the down content is 90%.
△ The down content of a sports brand down jacket is 75%
However, not every down jacket is made of a material that is prominently marked on the clothing tag. In a sports brand store, a short bread down jacket is a best-selling product this year, the price is 699 yuan, the reporter turned to the washing label on the inside of the clothes to see, the down content of the down jacket is 75%. At more than 9 o'clock in the evening on December 1, in a shopping mall near Sanshan Street, a clothing brand specializing in down jackets had many customers in the store, and a pink outdoor jacket down jacket was placed in the store. This down jacket is filled with goose down and has a down content of 90%. According to the clerk, most of the materials of the brand's fashion series down jackets are 85% down, while most of the outdoor sports series down jackets have a down content of 90%. In the store of a trendy clothing brand, the main feature is a short down jacket of the same style as the star, filled with duck down and 90% down.
△ Implement the discount down jacket of the old national standard
The reporter noticed that both online and offline, there are still a few old down jackets that implement the old national standard on sale. On the e-commerce platform of the above-mentioned trendy clothing brand, a workwear down jacket is a classic style of their brand, and only a small size remains. In the product details column, the down content is 80%, and the launch date is autumn 2020. In the mall, in front of an overseas clothing brand store that specializes in light down, there is an advertisement for discounts on selected products. The clerk introduced a double-sided wearable down jacket, the original price was more than 2,700 yuan, and the discounted price was more than 1,900 yuan. The reporter noticed that the paper tag of this down jacket was still marked with "filling: white duck down (90% down)", and in the column of the implementation standard, it was marked with GB/T 14272-2011, that is, the old national standard. The clerk explained that this down jacket was discounted because of the broken code.
Why do you need to look at the down content when buying a down jacket? "Down" is the key to keeping warm
△ Material description on the washing label
From April 1, 2022, down apparel (GB/T 14272-2021) will be officially implemented. One of the biggest highlights is that the down filling is no longer marked with "down content", but uniformly marked with "down content". It is understood that the actual role of keeping warm in the down jacket is the "down", the new national standard no longer has no warmth of the down waste into the down content, only the down content of more than 50%, is considered a qualified down jacket.
Cheng Weixiong, an independent analyst in the footwear and apparel industry, believes that the standard down content can effectively avoid shoddy feather stems, fragments or broken silk. The new national standard can improve and solve the problem of drilling hair that often occurs in down jackets. Because drilling is mainly related to the quality of the lining and the content of the lining, the better the quality of the lining, the higher the down content, the less easy it is to drill the hair. The new national standard has further lower limit requirements for the content of down, and has higher requirements for the proportion of scattered down and feather silk of broken down. Starting from the source of raw materials is conducive to the healthy and orderly growth of China's down jacket industry.
On the raw materials, what is the difference between the old and new national standards? Modern Express reporter has interviewed Chen Wenjian, president of Wuchuan Down Industry Association in Zhanjiang, Guangdong, on this issue, he said that under the original national standard, 90 down can refer to the down content of 90%, and its down content is more than 81%. Under the new national standard, the 90 velvet finger velvet content is more than 85%. From the perspective of raw materials, the pile content has increased from 81% to 85%, and the increase in cost is obvious. The reporter inquired about the data of the price platform of China Down Information Network, taking the price of white duck down on December 1 as an example, the price of standard down with a specification of 90% was 404.85 yuan/kg, and the price of standard down with a specification of 80% was 346.18 yuan/kg, which is quite different.
How to choose a warm and comfortable down jacket? Expert: Look at the quality of down, fluffiness, and fabric
△ A clothing brand that focuses on light down
How to pick a warm and comfortable down jacket without spending money in vain? Zhu Xiaofang, a senior engineer of the Nanjing Municipal Institute of Product Quality Supervision and Inspection, gave advice to everyone in an interview with a reporter from Modern Express. She said that first of all, we should pay attention to whether the identification of the down jacket is complete, and whether the name and address, safety category, fiber content, washing and maintenance methods are standardized. It can also be judged from the following aspects:
1. Look at the quality of the down. Look at the two values of down content and filling amount on the label, generally speaking, the higher the value, the better. You can feel the softness of the hand with your hands, and whether you feel the long hair pieces and feather stalks that are too large or too thick. If the feather stalk is soft but has a short and thick feather stem, it is crushed hair, which is uncomfortable to wear and has poor warmth effect.
2. Look at the fill power. You can grab or press the surface of the garment with your hands. If the rebound is fast, it means that the down jacket has good fluffiness and good down insulation, if the rebound is very slow, it means that the quality of the filling is not good, and if there is no rebound at all, the filling is likely to be crushed feathers of land fowl or other long hair pieces, not down.
3. Look at the fabric. Rub your hands together to see if any plush escapes from the gaps between the fibers. If there is a plush drill, it means that the fabric is not down-proof, and it is easy to fly out of the feathers after wearing, and the warmth is more likely to decline after a period of time. Down jacket fabrics are more effective if they are waterproof or water-repellent and can withstand rain and snow.
Modern Express + reporter Cai Mengying text/photo
(Proofread by Zhang Hongxia)