When we arrived at Lu Xun's hometown in Shaoxing City, the sky quietly rained, the street was smooth and clean without floating dust, the camphor tree and the fragrant tree were tall and green, and the neat and long boulevard raised the city's "appearance", touched the pulse of the city's "green growth", and presented a vibrant picture of "green water and green mountains opening each other".
When I came to Shaoxing, I came specifically to find "Lu Town".
Lu Xun and "Lu Town" are just like Mo Yan and "Gaomi Northeast Township". "Gaomi Northeast Township" is Mo Yan's literary landmark, and "Lu Town" is the main area for Lu Xun's prose and novel selection. Walking into "Lu Town" is like walking into the 100-year history of modern China, which is turbulent and turbulent, and it seems to be real and fantastic, and to visit the names of people, places and stories that have appeared in Lu Xun's works, for me, it is a life experience that seeks the roots and asks the question.
Lu Xun's hometown is located in Lu Xun Middle Road, Shaoxing City, which is a historical district with a unique Jiangnan style. If the ancient city of Shaoxing is compared to a book floating on water, then "Luzhen" is undoubtedly the essence of the book. On both sides of the narrow bluestone road, a pink wall and tile, bamboo silk gate, Lu Xun's ancestral residence, Lu Xun's former residence, Baicao Garden, Sanwei Library, Shoujia Taimen, Tugu Temple, Xianheng Hotel are interspersed, a small river flows in front of the door, and the canopy boat sways and sways, which naturally reminds people of some scenes in Lu Xun's hometown "Lu Town".
On the right side of the entrance to the scenic spot in Lu Xun's hometown is a white wall with the effect of woodcut prints. A bust portrait of a gentleman, with a grim expression, his eyes like a torch, and half of a cigarette still burning, as if he was fighting the enemy; There are only a few thick lines on the streets and houses, like Wu Guanzhong's oil paintings of water towns. The four big characters of "Lu Xun's hometown" are Mr.'s handwriting, which is simple and vigorous, strong and powerful. The mural at the entrance of the scenic spot, listening to the thunder in a silent place, vividly reproduces the life of Mr. Wang's short battle.
Lu Xun's ancestral residence, the most famous is the old Taimen of the Zhou family with blue tile powder wall, the first entry (commonly known as "Taimen Dou") above the instrument door hangs a blue background gold character "Hanlin" plaque, as if it is a huge business card, showing the noble identity of the old owner.
Lu Xun's former residence and other buildings are scattered on both sides of the river. The river water of the ancient town is flowing, the riverbank is covered with moss, and every dozens of steps, there are stone bridges connecting the roads on both sides, forming a criss-crossing Jiangnan water town style. The canopy boat is the spirit of the water town, but also the scenery of the water town, Mr. Zhou Zuoren said that it is "a leaf flat boat". Around the scenic spot, there are often gray-black awning boats docked by the small river in the water town, waiting quietly for tourists. Zhou Zuoren said eloquently in "Awning Boat", "When you sit on the boat, you should have the attitude of visiting the mountains, look at the surrounding looks, the mountains that can be seen everywhere, the black trees on the shore, the red knotweed and apples by the river, and the fishing houses..." The speed of the boat is not fast, and the picture from the horizontal perspective is a beautiful deduction experience: the ancient stone arch bridge slowly unfolds like a fan, and the mottled reflection of the buildings on the river dyes the river surface into jasper with light and shadow, which is really like walking through Xu Qingteng's hearty splashed ink freehand painting. At this moment, it is like a world away, and we can't help but recall the scene described in "Social Drama".
Baicao Garden is at the back of Lu Xun's former residence. The low and mottled walls, after a hundred years of wind and rain, still stand, leaving traces of time. The ancient town is endless, and the high courtyard walls around the former residence block the prosperity and noise of the merchants, leaving the leisurely tranquility of this garden within the garden, weaving into a watch. The leafy saponaria trees and the camphor trees cover the space in the garden. In the shade of the ancient trees, the young Lu Xun often caught crickets and plucked He Shou Wu with his friends in the area of the low mud wall roots, enjoyed the cool in the garden in summer, and caught birds and birds on the snow in winter. The statues of Lu Xun and Chang Ma in childhood are the finishing touches of the garden sketches: the long summer night, the moonlight is like water, the grass pond is full of frogs, and Brother Xun, who is seven or eight years old, tilts his head and sits on a low stool with a focused expression, and is quietly listening to the loving mother tell the story in the "Classic of Mountains and Seas".
The Sanwei Book House is located in the east wing of Mr. Shoujingwu's Shoujiatai Gate. This is the small flower hall of the three bays, and the plaque of "Sanwei Study" hangs above the middle of the study house, which is the title of Liang Tongshu, a famous calligrapher in the Qing Dynasty. There is a couplet on the pillar of the Sanwei Study House: "The most happy and silent is only filial piety, and the taste of Taitang is reading." "The pattern of the central hall on the wall is still the ancient painting of a fat sika deer lying under a pine tree." There was no Confucius tablet, so we saluted the plaque and the deer. The first time is considered to worship Confucius, and the second time is to worship Mr. The tour guide said that the square tables and wooden chairs set up in the "Sanwei Book House", and the hardwood desk engraved with the word "morning" on Lu Xun's seat are all original.
After a hundred years of wind and rain, the small garden behind the Sanwei Library, the osmanthus tree with straight branches and the plum tree with a stretched crown are still guarding there. The classroom was silent, and a group of ignorant teenagers with pigtails were catching and pounced on crickets in the back garden. Suddenly, inside the Sanwei Library, a heavy shocking wood sounded like thunder, "Where have all the people gone?!" "Read!" So everyone opened their throats and read for a while. Over the past hundred years, the sound of reading has been lingering and endless, as if it is still echoing in the ears.
The slush claws are unforgettable. In the warm afternoon when the sun was shining, through Mr. Shou's words, I imagined that Mr. Shou Jingwu should look like the portrait of the old man Shiraishi: silver-haired crane hair, serene demeanor, and deep eyes, reflecting the profound life experience and exquisite artistic accomplishment of the master of Chinese culture. Today, Mr. Shou Jingwu and his disciples have long since passed away, and the children of his disciples have also spread out all over the world.
In Lu Xun's hometown, the architectural style of Xianheng Hotel in the late Qing Dynasty is the same. Under the eaves, there is a store plaque with black characters on a white background, and the words "Xianheng Hotel" are written horizontally. When the street curved ruler cabinet, the end of the cabinet is placed with the green dragon brand of the straight book "Taibai Legacy Wind", and the celadon altar and blue-edged bowl are placed under the brand. In the scenic area, "Kong Yiji", who is tall, pale-faced, and often has some scars between wrinkles, is still the only person who wears a long shirt while standing and drinking. He stood in the street, leaning on his body, and his thin and deformed right index finger made the appearance of dipping in water to write, as if he was about to teach the guy "how many ways to write back words". Several children stretched out their arms on their backs, twisted their bodies and grabbed him, begging him for fennel beans to eat. Shaoxing flower carving has a long reputation. In the vicinity of Xianheng Hotel, we randomly purchased a few jars of Guyue Longshan and Huadiao wine, and walked into the shop on the street to drink, and sure enough, the entrance was soft and glutinous, fragrant and fragrant. The three flavors of Shaoxing old wine may be the elegant fragrance of books, the long fragrance of osmanthus and the fragrance of plum soaked through the years.
Jianhu is two kilometers southwest of Shaoxing City, there is a fast pavilion of Shanyin (now Shaoxing) people Lu You Poetry Office nearby, Qiu Jin, a female revolutionary in the late Qing Dynasty, is also a person from Shanyin, and she calls herself Jianhu Woman. The poems of Lu You, Qiu Jin, and Lu Xun are inherited in the context and full of poetry and patriotic enthusiasm. In October 1927, Lu Xun went to Shanghai. In the bloody storm, five young writers, including Roushi and Yin Fu, who often came to visit Lu Xun, were killed by reactionaries, and Lu Xun wrote "For the Memory of Forgetting" in anger. He waved his poetry late at night: "When I am accustomed to a long night in spring, the woman will have a silk sideburns... endure watching his peers become new ghosts, and angrily look for small poems in the knife bush. After the "918" incident, Lu Xun and Song Qingling, Cai Yuanpei, Yang Quan and others formed the China Civil Rights Protection League. In June 1933, Vice President Yang Quan was assassinated by agents sent by the ruling authorities. Lu Xun was also included in the assassination list. He went to Yang Quan's memorial service, went out without a key, and was determined to die. "How can there be pride like in the old days, when flowers bloom and fall for two reasons? When did he shed tears in the rain in the south of the Yangtze River, and cried for the athletes. ”
In October 1936, Lu Xun died in Shanghai. The end of the life of a generation of writers is like the end of an era. In 1937, on the first anniversary of Lu Xun's death, a commemorative meeting was held in Yan'an, the holy place of the revolution thousands of miles away from Shanghai, and Mao Zedong delivered a speech praising Lu Xun's political vision, fighting spirit and spirit of sacrifice. "Jianhu Yuetai Famous Scholar Township, worried for the country's pain. Jiannan Song is chanted by the autumn wind, and a case of mist is poured into the poem. In 1961, on the occasion of the 80th anniversary of Lu Xun's birth, Chairman Mao Zedong wrote this poem enthusiastically, commenting on Lu Xun's personality and poetry with a magnificent bearing, and praising Lu Xun's fierce blood.
We walked around Lu Xun's hometown, and we didn't realize that it was almost dusk. The setting sun has exhausted the last golden afterglow, leaving only the gray and distant sky. When night falls, the bustling banks of the Bridge River are full of oars and lights. The ancient stone arch bridge is like a long rainbow lying wave, connecting the sparkling waters with the shining land, and the boundaries of the river bank can no longer be seen. The blue waves of the Xianhuan River flowed, and occasionally three or two black canopy boats squeaked and rowed, breaking the tranquility of the night sky. The shop on the street has closed, and the husband, who has been tired from a long day's work, sits on a small stool and leisurely picks up his wine glass, and begins the "drinking ceremony" for dinner. Under the dim street lamp, several women were washing clothes on the bank of the ancient bridge river, the soft voice of Wu Nong, the eyes were full of leisure and plainness, and the four rhymes of nostalgia came to the face. The thousand-year-old river has accommodated the infinite precipitation of history, and the exquisite and unique old houses and ancient bridges have evoked people's infinite nostalgia. We feel the ancient and heavy of Shaoxing, a famous historical and cultural city, and the sunny and elegant eco-tourism city, just like reading Huang Gongwang's rich landscape paintings.
On the powder wall on one side of the "Renli" archway, there is a beam of spotlight projection, which falls on the wall, and it is written that "there is a point of heat, a point of light". In the dark night, the courtyard wall of the old Taimen gate in Luzhen is towering, and the stone lion in front of the door opens its mouth and devours the moon and starlight. In the dark night sky in the distance, in the Tugu Temple not far away, Ah Q had just had a fight with someone, but he lost, and he said to himself: "I was finally beaten by my son." "At this time, Lu Zhen fell completely into silence." Piercing through the fog of the night, it seems that those words are the light and shadow cast by his heart in the dark night. In 1910, the revolutionary Wang Jinfa's team drove from Hangzhou to Shaoxing overnight, and the city of Shaoxing was lit up with various lights, and the revolution illuminated the dark night of the millennium. In early spring, the fog is misty. In the drizzle, the ambitious Lu Xun returned to his hometown from Hangzhou and served as the principal of Shaoxing Normal School. But the torch of the "revolution" is like a flash of lightning, and it is fleeting. In the spring of 1912, in order to escape the persecution of the enemy, Lu Xun left his hometown of Shaoxing alone and went to work in the Ministry of Education of the Nanjing Provisional Government.
In September 1926, Lu Xun arrived in Xiamen by ship from Shanghai and went to Xiamen University to serve as a professor of the Department of Chinese Literature and the Institute of Chinese Studies. The 45-year-old Lu Xun came to Xiamen, a coastal city with "beautiful scenery", far away from Beijing, the center of the chaotic debate. At Xiamen University, he wrote famous prose works in a casual style, such as "From the Hundred Herb Garden to the Three Flavors Study" and "Mr. Fujino". During his more than four months at Xiamen University, Lu Xun also instructed students to establish two journals, "Gulang" and "Wave Boat", and compiled two textbooks, "A Brief History of Chinese Novels" and "Outline of the History of Chinese Literature". More than 80 years later, the sunny and energetic students of Xiamen University walked under the statue of Lu Xun, tracing Lu Xun's footprints, the style of "Drum Waves" is still the same, Mr. 's voice and smile are fixed in the Jimei Building of Xiamen University, and his humanistic spirit is fixed in the Xiamen night of "silence like strong wine" that he describes.
Silence. The ancient town of Shaoxing and the town of Wenwen Lu are cruising in the reflection of the Daiwa powder wall, and the warmth of the water is everywhere. On the banks of the Xianhuan River, the torch lit the dark night, and the people without the lamp lit the torch. Through the light and shadow of a hundred years, those thoughts flickering in the dark night have made more and more people see the way forward.
Author: Li Xilong Editor: Xu Zheng Photography: Xu Zheng Proofreader: Dong Ping