Tongjing Lane Plain Noodles, is a long-established noodle restaurant and its signature noodles in the early years of Chengdu, initially picked up and sold, and then set up a shop in Tongjing Lane to operate, hence the name.
The so-called vegetarian noodles, refers to only put seasonings without putting cheeks of noodles, compared to the cheeky stewed chicken noodles, arch noodles, beef noodles, sea noodles and other meat noodles, vegetarian noodles are simple to make, fresh and clean, delicious and cheap, previously quite popular in the folk.
There are cheeky meat noodles
The founders of Tongjing Lane Plain Noodles, Lu Shaoyun and Lu Shupei, because of their unique features in seasoning and production methods, coupled with their down-to-earth business style and slightly legendary life experience, make Tongjing Lane Plain Noodles unique and deeply loved by the old Chengdu people.
Lu Shupei is a hundred-year-old wife, which is uncommon in the national culinary world. Born in 1909, she co-founded a noodle restaurant with her brother Lu Shaoyun in Tongjing Lane in the 1930s, opened an independent shop in 1953 until her retirement in 1975, and in the 1990s directed the work in the noodle restaurant opened by later generations. In an interview with a newspaper in Chengdu in 2010, Lu's mother-in-law was already in her prime, although her eyesight and hearing had declined, but her speech was clear and her physical condition was still good.
Mother-in-law Lu was received by Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling because she was a family member of the Sichuan Army. Lu Jiaben was poor, and since she married into the Ma family at the age of eighteen, her life had improved, and she had the funds to help her brother who was shouldering the burden. Her husband, Ma Pu'an, was ordered to go out of Sichuan to resist the Japanese, and Jiang and Song received and comforted the families of the sichuan army officers in Chengdu and distributed condolences such as covering their faces. Soon, the bad news of her husband's death came, which made her grief-stricken.
Crowning Rong City with a plain face, Lu Mother-in-law is unparalleled in the world. At the end of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Lu Shupei gave birth to her only son, Luo Dingzhou. In the following years, her brother-in-law and second husband died one after another, in order to support her three children (only son and the orphan of her brother's family), in 1953 she hung a signboard with the noodles of Tongjing Lane on The North Third Street of Gulou to make a living, and moved to HuaxingZheng Street a year later.
In the same year, coinciding with the transformation of the Yuelai Tea Garden on HuaxingZheng Street into jinjiang theater, the famous Sichuan opera "drama nest" old shop has a new look, the famous horns gather, tourists are weaving, coupled with the surrounding thick traditional business atmosphere, to tongjing lane famous to create unique operating conditions. However, no matter how many passenger flows, there is no real kung fu, not to mention that at this time, the streets are full of large meals and small restaurants.
Chengdu people's requirements for eating have always been rigorous and harsh, and it is difficult for the general generation to enter the eyes of the law, but once it is determined, it will follow it with affection and accompany it all the way, on the one hand, it will continue to examine the orthodoxy of taste with strict standards, and on the other hand, it will accumulate its attachment to food in the heart, and it will not be abandoned until it is old.
Early years of drama
Lu Mother-in-law's cooking techniques not only have the legacy of her brother, but also incorporate personal characteristics. Since there is no need to press the array of various cheeks, the power of the vegetarian noodles is completely concentrated in the seasoning link. Tongjing Lane vegetarian noodles are cooked oil sea pepper, soy sauce, sesame paste, monosodium glutamate, sesame oil, garlic paste, pepper noodles, vinegar and green onions, on the surface there is nothing special, the trick lies in the selection and production of spices.
The first is the production of sea peppers in cooked oil. Select two thorn strips, Chaotian pepper and other varieties of stir-fried fragrant, of which two thorns are the mainstay, to use more than 60%. When refining vegetable oil, the pot is put into the ginger slices, increase the flavor while watching the fire color, as the oil temperature rises, the ginger slices are first bubbly, and then gradually changed to small bubbles, at this time the oil is refined, must be ended away from the fire, naturally dried to a certain temperature, and then according to the proportion of three parts of oil and one part of sea pepper noodles, the mature oil sea pepper is adjusted. The oil sea pepper produced in this way is pure in aroma, prominent in aroma, balanced in spicy taste, not dry.
The second is the making of soy sauce. Tongjing Lane vegetarian noodles will use two kinds of soy sauce, namely Deyang soy sauce and replica red soy sauce. Deyang soy sauce began in the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, is a famous product of Deyang, the juice is mellow, the flavor is rich, and it has the special effect of adding flavor and freshness. Copy the red soy sauce with ordinary red soy sauce with brown sugar, rock sugar to enhance the flavor, boil in the pot, remove the dregs, and then add water ball powder to mix.
Cooked oil sea pepper
The tahini of the vegetarian noodle restaurant should also be processed, and the refined rapeseed oil is added to the raw tahini to make a thin paste, the dry humidity should be appropriate, too dry will make the noodles greasy and unpleasant, too thin to eat up with mud and water, the flavor is completely empty.
A seasoning should be put into a bowl in turn, fine round noodles under the pot, cook in wide water over high heat, pick up the water to dry, and put it into the bowl. Before eating, stir well with chopsticks at the bottom, the red and shiny noodles are attached to the spicy aroma of oil sea pepper, the hemp aroma of pepper noodles, the salty aroma of Deyang soy sauce, the sweet aroma of replica red soy sauce, the sauce aroma of sesame sauce, the sour aroma of vinegar and the aroma of garlic and shallots.
Later, some masters have changes in the order of the ingredients, the noodles into the bowl before putting garlic paste and green onions, do not underestimate this move, Sichuan flavor seasoning varieties are numerous, which one is down first, which one is after the bottom, the flavor of the finished product will also have subtle differences, as for the difference geometry, only diners themselves experience.
Dried meat noodles made by Imato
Tongjing Lane vegetarian noodles these seemingly know-how cooking methods, in fact, is not sophisticated, as long as the fine, impatient, even if step by step can also master eight points, if you have to say that Lu Mother-in-law has any secrets, there may be a point is not too troublesome, the last point is only the operation experience can be understood.
In huaxing main street painstaking management, so that Lu Po po and Tongjing Lane plain noodles are widely known, in addition to vegetarian noodles, her sweet water surface is also a must, hand-pulled noodles thick and solid, with a unique Lu seasoning skills, the entrance is smooth, the more chewy the more fragrant.
In the late 1950s, the noodle shop was relocated several times, and in the late 1960s, it was renamed Qingbiju, which mainly focuses on various Chengdu snacks, and Lu's mother-in-law worked here until her retirement. In the early 1990s, her descendants opened two vegetarian noodle restaurants in Huaxing Shangjie street and Dongsheng Street, but after a few years of closure, Lu's Tongjing Lane vegetarian noodles completely withdrew from Sichuan.
Sichuan flavor has a towel, noodles lead the old Chengdu, the heart of the kung fu, delicious nature comes. I don't know if Grandma Lu is there? Good mouth misses you.
Sweet water surface
Some of the pictures are from the Internet and are for illustrative purposes only
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