Entering the seventh month of the lunar calendar, every dusk, the shining Vega star will rise from the northeast sky and become the most eye-catching star in the night. The day when the cowherd and the weaver girl Tanabata met according to everyone's legend is finally coming!
Every Tanabata, the court will also be lively. This is where the annual begging event begins—
-Transitions-
In the past, on the day of Tanabata, girls would not only ask the weaver girl to give her a pair of skillful hands through begging games, but also carry out skill competitions such as "needle piercing under the moon".
Qing Ren Yi Begging Qiao album loading shafts
Well, here's the problem!
Ancient women begged on this romantic day,
What's the trick?
A pair of unique hands in the Forbidden City,
How clever can it be?
A pair of skillful hands, you can make a pair of butterflies dance,
Weaving a ball, embroidering a ball, two "happy encounters".
Qing Red Silk Eight Clusters of Flowers Butterfly Pattern Female Jacket (Partial)
Qingqianlong Green Eight Tuan Happy Encounter PatternEd Satin Women's Cotton Robe (Partial)
A pair of skillful hands, you can weave a dragon pattern,
It is also possible to embroider cloud gas rolls.
The picture on the left is the detail of the flat gold embroidered cloud dragon pattern, and the right picture is the silk cloud dragon pattern, these two complements show the beauty of the embroidery and weaving details respectively.
The makeup flower cloud dragon pattern is also woven.
This cloud dragon pattern is a kind of embroidery, which is a kind of embroidery, and the fine beads on the embroidery make the dragon's body sparkle.
Qingshi blue Nasha four-ball tangled lotus bat gold dragon pattern single gun suit (partial)
Clear stone blue satin embroidered four clusters of colorful clouds gold dragon pattern cotton gun suit (partial)
The above two pieces are yarn and color embroidery, and the more enlarged the picture, the more you can see the exquisite embroidery.
A pair of clever hands,
Can be woven in the four seasons,
It is also possible to embroider peonies into immortality.
QingBao blue peony chess piece pattern solid yarn (partial)
Qing Red Tangled Peony Brocade (Partial)
Qingqianlong Rose red tangled peony pattern Zhangsatin (partial)
The peony flowers of the above three pieces are "bloomed" on the ground yarn, makeup satin and zhang satin, which are all fabrics.
Let's enjoy a few proud works of the "top embroidery lady" depicting peony flowers:
Qingqianlong Light green satin embroidered Bogu floral pattern women's cotton robe
(Slide left and right to see local embroidery)
In this Su embroidery treasure, you can see the bottle of peony inserted in brocade, the flowers and leaves are shimmering with velvet luster, and the velvet halo of the seawater river cliff pattern is also more pearlescent.
Qing Yongzheng Green dark flower field yarn embellished with eight clusters of rich orchid pattern women's singles gown robe
Qingqianlong Purple satin embroidered eight regiments of jade hall rich and noble pattern female cotton robe
Qingqianlong Stone blue satin embellished embroidered with eight clusters of floral pattern jackets
Qing lotus color yarn embroidered eight groups of jade tang rich pattern women's singles robe
It can be seen that a pair of skillful hands can show their inner ingenuity with weaving and embroidery. Although weaving and embroidery are also used to refer to the craft of textile clothing, they are their own wonderful "painting methods".
After looking at so many comparisons above, how do we grasp the rules to judge whether a piece of fabric is woven or embroidered?
In the Qing Dynasty, there were many kinds of weaving items, such as silk, satin, yarn, luo, silk, aya, brocade, etc., as well as silk, which was often used to trace painting calligraphy.
Clear silk double-headed peony figure axis
Embroidery, with aya, luo, silk, satin, yarn and other fabrics as the embroidery floor, colored silk, gold thread, rice beads, screws, etc. as embroidery materials, the use of needles and threads (velvet) through the fixed pattern of decorative techniques, equivalent to needle ghostwriting, line instead of color, painting on the fabric.
The embroidery in the palace is not only worn on the body, but also extends on the cushion drapery, and is also widely used in architectural decoration, classic decoration, utensil packaging, Buddhist hall arrangement, and even imperial calligraphy and painting.
In particular, the Qianlong Emperor not only turned his favorite calligraphy and paintings into three-dimensional paintings of various crafts and materials such as carving lacquer, screw, gemstone, and jade, but also liked to use various colors of silk or woven or embroidered scroll albums of various sizes. The scrolls, scrolls, volumes, and pages of these weaving and embroidery processes are recorded together with the calligraphy and painting works in the royal calligraphy and painting book "Shiqu Baodi" or "Secret Temple Zhulin".
Compared with the embroidery of several pieces of clothing and fabrics in the foregoing, it seems that the embroidery seems to be better than the color luster of the fabric? Of course not! It's time to show the true strength of the Weavers through the embroidery scroll below!
Note: A map of Ding Guanpeng's Elysium scroll, with many embroidered versions. This image shows a partial comparison of the embroidered Elysium chart axis, the silk Elysium chart axis, and the colored Elysium chart axis. The silk in the middle and the colored weave on the lower side belong to the fabric. Among them, the lower side of this huge and matchless yarn hanging shaft with a height of four meters and a width of nearly two meters shows the strength of china's silk weaving industry in the prosperous world.
Clear color weaving Elysium chart axis
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Different from the industrial design and standards of global circulation in modern society, in ancient China, people's clothes were mostly tailor-made. In the Qing Dynasty, in addition to the three weaving bureaus of Jiangnan (Nanjing), Hangzhou and Suzhou and the inner weaving bureau of the Beijing Division, the Qing Dynasty Inner Court Manufacturing Office had set up garments, tailoring and embroidery. Weaving and embroidery was once the most important economic pillar for a traditional silk country like China.
Qing Ren Painting Yin Chan Cultivation And Weaving Image Album (one)
Of course, from the style pattern, to the fabric tapestry, to wear a most intimate and suitable dress, it still depends on the women's own pair of skillful hands.
Ming Chongzhen Han Ximeng embroidered Song and Yuan famous traces album (one)
Since ancient times, whether it is a weaver girl, an embroidered lady, the Daguanyuan sisters in "Dream of the Red Chamber" or the queen concubines in the Forbidden City, all of them are good at "depicting dragons and embroidering phoenixes". A pair of skillful hands can also be regarded as a necessary survival skill for women. After all, "stupid hands" were once the natural reason why the palace women were directly "fired" to leave the Forbidden City.
The song checks that Chu XiuGong handed over the woman because of stupidity: "Because the study of acupuncture has not been effective for a long time... It was actually handed over because of stupidity, and there was no other affection... Order the families to take it. It seems that the young Concubine Yi (later Empress Dowager Cixi) dismissed many stupid servants.
Of course! Nowadays, girls no longer have to worry about such things, and even do not have to hold needle-threading competitions.
"They" finally stepped out of the limitations of history, bid farewell to the stage of life that was only the size of a loom, and the display of talent and style no longer stopped at the world of one warp and one weft.
Qing Fei Danxu Tanabata Chart Axis (Partial)
Tanabata beggars, on top of the good blessings of traditional festivals,
Added a whole new meaning of the times.
Year after year, I wish everyone can "beg" a pair of skillful hands,
Cut through the fog and solve all the problems,
In all walks of life, with all the love,
Glowing!
Interactive sessions
Today's Tanabata coincides with the weekend,
What will you do with your ingenuity?
bibliography:
"Palace Lady Talks about the Past" Jin Yi, Shen Yiling
"The Official Silk Weaving Industry of the Qing Dynasty" Yan Yong
"Imperial Power and Skill: An Investigation of the Internal Weaving and Dyeing Bureau in the Qing Dynasty" Zhang Qiong
Stitching, Embroidery and Embroidery: Some Theoretical Issues in Chinese Embroidery Techniques Zhao Feng
*Special thanks to Zhang Xin, deputy research librarian of the Palace Museum's Imperial Court Department, for his help with this article
Typography / Lu Wanzhuo Han Xuehui
Source: Micro Forbidden City