Source: Only willing to bear 40%.
Xinmin Evening News 2023-06-05 21:35 Published in Shanghai
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2 members of the mountaineering team of Hunan Province
Less than 400 meters from the summit of Mount Everest,
He won widespread praise for his efforts to save people from abandoning the summit plan.
(Earlier report)
Fan Jiangtao
Xie Ruxiang
Wizard Sherpa
On June 3, the reporter found a netizen on Weibo that the rescued person was only willing to bear $4,000 of the $10,000 rescue cost. The reporter contacted Fan Jiangtao, the leader of the mountaineering team in Hunan Province, who said that the situation was true, that he was very angry, and had decided to bear the cost with another rescuer, and also wanted to ask the rescued person why.
The reporter confirmed from informed sources that the rescued person was Ms. L, a 50-year-old mountaineer in Hunan Province, who was rescued in distress on May 18 while climbing Mount Everest and retreating. It took her 13 days from arrival in Kathmandu to the summit, one-third of the standard climbing cycle.
Fan Jiangtao and Sherpa's guide moved down with Ms. Liu
"Must be saved, it should be"
At the end of August 2021, the Hunan Mountaineering Association completed the selection of the first batch of Hunan mountaineering team members and released the first 11 team members, Ms. L is one of them. Fan Jiangtao, 39, was one of the judges for the selection interview at that time.
Rescue scene. Image source: New Hunan Client
At 8 p.m. local time on May 18, at an altitude of 8,450 meters on Mount Everest, Fan Jiangtao found a fallen climber - his right hand had no gloves, he was frozen black, and his left hand only had a fleece glove; There was no one else around. Fan Jiangtao guessed that this was a climber who was abandoned by Sherpa. Upon inspection, he ran out of oxygen, his face was covered with thin ice, his hands were frostbitten, and his vital signs were weak.
Confirmed by inquiry and nameplate that this is Ms. L. Fan Jiangtao was very surprised, "We asked her before if she would go to Mount Everest, she said no, and as a result, she secretly reported an itinerary herself, we didn't know at all, she came by herself." ”
"No rescue above 8,000 meters" is a common practice in the mountaineering community. Fan Jiangtao said that his Sherpa guide also persuaded him not to rescue, but after walking more than 20 meters, Fan Jiangtao cried out and decided to give up climbing to the top and return to save people. "They are all from Hunan, and as the leader and conductor, I know more about Chen Xuebin (a climber in Guizhou who died on Mount Everest on May 18 this year). At that time, I saw that it was Chinese, and I subconsciously wanted to understand the situation. ”
Fan Jiangtao replaced Ms. L with oxygen, sugar and water, and when he went down the mountain for help, he met another teammate, Xie Ruxiang
Remembering more than 40 days of hard work, nearly 400,000 yuan of investment and the goal of reaching the top in vain, Fan Jiangtao even cried during the rescue. At an altitude of 8,300 meters, Fan Jiangtao, who was already exhausted, met his teammate Xie Ruxiang who was climbing.
"It must be saved, it should be, even if it is a corpse." Xie Ruxiang, 57, a former president of Peking University's Mountain Eagle Club, told Sherpa's guide that he had given up climbing to the summit to save the man, and promised Ms. L a $10,000 reward as long as she returned to Camp C4.
After more than 4 hours of rescue, Ms. L was finally taken to Camp C4 and picked up by her mountaineering team.
At 1 a.m. on the 19th, they arrived at Camp C4, where Ms. L was successfully rescued.
According to Hunan media reports, after being rescued, Ms. L said that the experience encountered during the evacuation was true, but could not provide more details because "people were confused [at the time]." Regarding the kind deeds of Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang, Ms. L said, "We should be grateful for saving lives. ”
After returning to Kathmandu, Xie Ruxiang met Ms. L again at a hotel, "After greeting, she said that she was recovering well." ”
13 days to climb Mount Everest
Climbing circles rarely hear of anyone succeeding
A person familiar with the matter introduced that at the end of April this year, Ms. L took annual leave from the unit and officially began her journey to climb Mount Everest. Ms. L registered at a mountaineering company in China and first went to Qinghai Yuzhu Peak for high-altitude adaptation training. On May 5, he flew to Nepal; On the 6th, I came to the base camp of Mount Everest at an altitude of 5400 meters.
At 2 a.m. on May 9, Ms. L and Sherpa set off from base camp and successfully summited Mount Everest at 10:38 a.m. on May 18.
Rescued Ms. L. Image source: New Hunan Client
On May 20, Ms. L appeared in the list of members who completed the summit of a domestic mountaineering company on May 18, and specially marked Ms. L as "arriving in Kathmandu on May 5 and completing the summit of Mount Everest in 13 days".
What is the concept of climbing Mount Everest in 13 days? A 7,000-meter-level snow-capped mountain like Mushtag Peak has a climbing cycle of more than 20 days. Generally speaking, plus the return time, 40 days is generally the standard cycle for climbing Mount Everest, and Ms. L's ascent this time took only nearly one-third of the time.
Reporters inquired into public reports and found that before Ms. L, a climber in Shenzhen shocked the amateur mountaineering circle in May 2021 when it took 22 days from departure to summit Mount Everest.
Taking the mountaineering team in Hunan Province as an example, a group of nine people set off from Changsha on April 9, arrived in Kathmandu on the 12th, and arrived at the base camp of Mount Everest on the 20th; Coupled with adaptive training, waiting for the summit window, etc., until May 18, the two teams A and B began to climb to the top, the whole cycle was 36 days.
Fan Jiangtao emphasized, "Not only did Brother Xiang and I not succeed in reaching the top, but 4 of our B team were affected by this rescue and finally reached the top alone. It is understood that Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang both said that if there is a chance in the future, they will challenge Mount Everest again. Fan Jiangtao has already booked to continue climbing Mount Everest next year or the year after.
According to public information, 50-year-old Ms. L, currently working in a bank in Hunan Province, began to contact the marathon in 2013, won a number of domestic 100-kilometer super horse races and extreme trail running championships since 2015, and climbed the 7,546-meter-high Mushtag Peak in 2017.
"Such a fast climb is generally very confident in their own strength, but also want to save training time," He Honghu, a Chongqing woman who was the first to climb Mount Everest, told reporters. We are in the circle and rarely hear about successful people. ”
A media colleague who accompanied the mountaineering team from Hunan Province to the base camp of Mount Everest also told reporters, "I have also met similar domestic climbers (speed climbing) in Nepal, in addition to saving time, but also to avoid problems in the body during training, after all, anything can happen at high altitudes." ”
As a member of the mountaineering team in Hunan Province, why didn't you follow the team? Why do you choose Speedpan? People familiar with the matter said that Ms. L chose to climb with a relatively large risk because of the limited time of annual leave, but the cost was also a lot, about 400,000.
The rescued were only willing to bear the cost of $4,000
"We returned to China on the same flight and never saw us again." Fan Jiangtao told reporters that later, "Sherpa has been impatient and has been urging us to ask for this money." I contacted her (Ms. L) with a friend and saw what it was saying. ”
On May 19, Fan Jiangtao and Xie Ruxiang were at Camp C4 on Mount Everest. Image source: Courtesy of interviewee
Fan Jiangtao got a reply, "We each tip Sherpa $1,800, and she's willing to pay $1,500." Then the rescue cost $10,000, and she was willing to pay $4,000. This me off, and I said that if you say this, I don't want a penny of this money, you don't need to give it to me. ”
"The final rescue cost was paid by ourselves, I and Brother Xiang each paid 5,000 US dollars, and yesterday (3rd) we gave Sherpa guides 10,000 US dollars." Fan Jiangtao told reporters, "I saved people, gave up hundreds of thousands of yuan, gave up such a long period of preparation, and finally I paid for it myself." I'm angry, but I don't want to say much, but I'm curious to know why. ”
Ms. L was contacted through several channels, but received no response. The insider said that when she returned to China, Ms. L was very resistant to media interviews, "After all, there will be some stress when returning from the ghost gate." ”
Source: Upstream News
Editor: Tang Mengwei