#这么近 so beautiful weekend to Hebei ##美好中国幸福旅程·Hebei ##519中国旅游日 #
Ascend to the North Hall and twilight falls. After a night of rain, it suddenly tore open a hole and tried to extend the sky for us, and this rain in three volts became the air conditioner turned on before climbing. Someone photographed the sky light, saying that they saw the graceful heavenly girl wearing the clouds, what the heavenly daughter should look like, I don't know, the heavenly public is beautiful, but it is real.
After the rain, Shigu Mountain was empty, full of freshly washed traces, and in the middle of it, it was like a speck of dust missed by the vast earth. The location of the grotto is clearly split between the walls, and on the terrace, except for one inscription, the rest of the fortifications are restrained and low-key, with a few eyes of the caves and hidden walls.
When I tried to get closer to the civil service cave, I found that in the stone window on the door, there was a pigeon standing and looking at me curiously. This is probably the aborigines of Beixiangtang, entertaining visitors while also guarding its home.
Speaking of pigeons, I am reminded of the legend about the origin of Hibido Temple.
It is said that under Shigu Mountain in ancient Cixi Prefecture (present-day Handan, Hebei), an orphan named Shi Dan herded sheep for a living, rolling on the mountain during the day, and sheltering in a small stone cave in the mountain at night, there was a stone gap in the cave, and a stone was sandwiched between the cracks. At the age of seventeen, the small stone suddenly grew bigger and bigger, and finally turned into a dove, and flew away with a note telling him that if anyone in the stone spoke, you would answer.
Sure enough, one day in the stone, there was a human voice, Shi Dan responded gladly, the words just fell, a loud noise, the mountain opened the stone cracked, and two cave temples appeared. It turned out that this was a heavenly work, which had already been completed, and it was almost a heaven-breaking machine.
The pigeons on the lintel of Cave 10 can be regarded as the aborigines of Xiangtangshan
The two temples in the north and south of Xiangtang Mountain, plus Xiaoxiangtang Temple, there are 10 grottoes in six, more than 5,000 stone carved statues, and the family business is huge, and it will not be built overnight. Like the Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, Yungang Grottoes, Longmen Grottoes, etc., Xiangtangshan Grottoes are also traces of social civilization and the embodiment of human ingenuity. So someone racked their brains and weaved the legend of Luban's cave, and the evidence was on a stone wall outside the cave, a left palm print and three right finger prints, which have been passed down for many years in the name of Luban's wife.
It is said that this Luban built a cave, and his wife was responsible for delivering food, and agreed to use the sound of cannons as a trumpet, one ring to light a fire to cook, the second ring to go out to deliver food, and the third ring to go up the mountain to deliver. Lu's wife is also a model of curiosity about killing cats, wondering how her husband and his disciples created these lifelike Buddha statues, and one day she deliberately cooked in advance before arriving at two rings.
I saw that the hard rock was like dough in her husband's hands, pinching a Buddha statue, and Luban's disciples all turned into pig babies, nibbling on stone walls and holding stones in their mouths. The pig babies were busy nibbling at stones, colliding with Shi Niang, panicking one by one, and dodging in all directions. Lu Ban saw that his wife had broken his divine art, and in a fit of anger, he threw down the grotto project and flicked away.
Lu's wife knew that she was in trouble, chased to the edge of the cliff, helped the cliff wall and watched her husband go away, regretting it. To this day, there are still her palm prints on the cliff wall, and under the cliff are the footprints left by her three-inch golden lotus, as well as a line of tears that should not have been the original, and a small Buddha statue that she inadvertently buckled out of her right hand has also remained next to the palm print since then.
Legend has it that Mrs. Luban's palm print
The story is made up with a nose and eyes, but the person who made the story is still not thoughtful. First, this Xiangtangshan Grottoes were built in Northern Qi, a thousand years apart from the Spring and Autumn period where Lu Ban was located; The practice of two-to-three-inch golden lotus accumulation began in the Northern Song Dynasty, and did not affect the women of the Luban era in the slightest.
It is also about the excavation of the grotto, on the one hand is the legend of separated couples, on the other hand, it is a good story of adult beauty. It is said that this groundbreaking sheep herding baby later became a family with the fairy who turned into a dove, and the husband and wife traveled to the grottoes together, visiting the south cave and the north cave, from the eighth day of the first lunar month to the fifteenth of March. The whereabouts of the immortal couple cannot be verified, but the temple fairs on the eighth day of the first lunar month of Nanxiangtang Temple and the 15th day of March in Beixiangtang Temple have been carried on to this day.
Two
The Xiangtangshan Grottoes were built earlier in the Northern Qi Dynasty
Compared with the beautiful legend, the real version of the Beixiangtang Grotto construction does not seem so wonderful.
To put it harshly, the Xiangtangshan Grottoes were built earlier in the Northern Qi Dynasty, and according to the Zizhi Tongjian, there were cave Buddhist temples in the fifth year of the Eastern Wei Dynasty. The puppet regime of the Eastern Wei Dynasty set its capital at Yecheng (present-day Linzhang, Hebei), which was the then powerful minister Gao Huan sitting in the capital Jingyang (present-day Taiyuan), controlling the Eastern Wei Jiangshan Mountain and Taihang East-West Transportation Pass, which was the necessary place for the two places. At that time, Gao Huan's second son, Gao Yang, the later emperor of Northern Qi, opened a cave and built a temple under Gushan Mountain early, built an official garden, and under the name of summer escape and worship Buddha, he leaked his ambition to usurp power.
This is not all the cave construction, on the top of the largest big Buddha cave, there is still a dark cave, which was once the coffin of Gao Huan, the father of Gao Yang, and the stone carvings of tombs such as winged beasts in the cave also prove that this is a cliff cave with a mausoleum appeal.
We all know that the Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes began with an encounter between the monks of Lezun and the Buddha Guang, and it took several generations of monks and believers to have the tireless efforts to reach the current scale, Yungang and Longmen Grottoes have royal Buddha appeals, is the continuation of "four hundred and eighty temples in the southern dynasty, how many buildings in the smoke and rain", only this Beixiangtang Big Buddha Grottoes, which seem to be the masterpiece of believers, pious carvings, are actually tombs under the coat of worshiping Buddha.
This reminds me of Pudu Cihang in the movie "Qiannu Ghost Soul's Human Way", on the surface is a cultivator, but in fact he is the evil demon who controls the world left and right the imperial court, under his obscene power, the Manchu dynasty's civil and military officials have become hollowed out of the shell, and his only sharing is to dig out the meat of the court ministers for the younger brother to eat.
Now it seems that this Pudu Cihang is not the portrayal of Gao Huan, the powerful minister who controls the Jiangshan of Eastern Wei? And his son, the later Northern Qi emperor Gao Yang, was even more evil, he used the Buddha as a cover to try to worship his dead Laozi, and the devout believers thought that they were worshipping the Buddha who protected the sky, but in fact the undead of the Gao family lying in the coffin on the roof of the cave, and then shaded the thousands of generations of his Northern Qi Gao family.
Such a vicious move, only the evil devil crooked way can think of it, sure enough, within a few years, Gao Yang abolished the Eastern Wei puppet and declared himself emperor.
Interior view of the cave Buddhist temple
Interior view of the main cave, below the statue, the lower right corner of the picture is the town tomb beast
Fortunately, Gao Yang's evil did not completely succeed, he thought that he had killed all the stonemasons, all the gods were unaware, but he did not expect that the stonemasons had a backhand, and his descendants followed the special marks left by their fathers to find the location of the coffin in the Gao Huan Grotto, and looted the wealth that was buried, and the Gao family calculated everything, and finally achieved the solid life of the stonemasons.
And those grottoes and statues that were originally used as the cover of the mausoleum, through the beacon smoke and war, through the era-destroying movement, experienced various man-made robberies, and later carved and chiseled by the Sui, Tang and Ming dynasties, stubbornly survived, becoming the artistic treasures of Ze for later generations.
Big Buddha Cave is the largest grotto in Beixiangtang, with a depth, height and width of more than ten meters, which is a typical three-walled three-niche Buddha hall cave. Standing on the right side of the cave, as long as someone reminds you, as long as you are willing to raise your head, it is easy to find the entrance to the hidden cave.
It is said that this cave leads to the back mountain, the depth of the mausoleum, the size of the cave, you do not have the ability to fly, you can not explore the end, you can only plug in the wings of imagination to explore. If you don't do your homework and no one reminds you, you will not find the location of the dark cave of the mausoleum, and you can see at most the location of the statue at the top, which seems to be missing a piece, which is very common for the Xiangtangshan Grottoes that have been cut and trafficked around the world for thousands of years.
Above the statue of the broken arm, the third black hole is the entrance to the tomb
In his "Legend of the High Monk", the monk Daoxuan of the Tang Dynasty wrote about the horrific carvings in Gao Huan's tomb, which shows that there is another world in the dark cave. Nowadays, the stone statues of the Great Buddha Cave have many different heads and limbs, and the location of Gao Huan's bones is of course even more gone, only pigeons can enter and exit freely, they may flutter their wings, roll up a cyclone in the vault, make a crackling and crisp sound, or excrete at the mouth of the dark cave in a high place, leaving spots, they cooing and telling something, and the sound echoes in the grotto "speaker" in surround sound.
The flight of the pigeons in the big Buddha cave reminds me of John Woo's movies, or pride, or tragedy, always accompanied by heroes, patting a peaceful trajectory in the blood.
Three
One of the last remaining statues
We don't know what the descendants of the stonemasons did in the grottoes besides stealing treasures, and the dragon veins that Gao Yang calculated did not seem to protect the Gao clan, and the Northern Qi dynasty soon became a guest of history in self-slaughter and fornication.
After the death of the powerful minister Gao Huan, Gao Cheng, who was originally the 28-year-old eldest son Gao Cheng succeeded to the Wei government, who wanted to plot with his henchmen to usurp the throne, was assassinated by the intruding family slave Lanjing, Gao Yang, who was always ridiculed by his brother, took the throne and changed his name to emperor the following year. Gao Yang still showed signs of achieving hegemony at the beginning, but within a few years, he lost his life in wine, and died at the age of 31.
On his deathbed, he entrusted his heir, the deposed emperor Gao Yin, to his sixth brother Gao Yan, but five years later, the sixth brother he favored staged a coup d'état and sat on the dragon chair, and Gao Yang's poor son was killed by his uncle at the age of 17. Gao Xuan's martial arts skills were second to none in the Northern Qi Dynasty, but unfortunately he fell from his horse the year after he took the throne, and died of his injuries at the age of 27.
In order to avoid the young son Gao Bainian repeating the mistakes of his nephew Gao Yin, Gao Yan prequel was located in the ninth brother Gao Zhan, but he still did not save his son's life. The indecisive and unbridled Gao Zhan only stayed on the throne for four years, and then passed the throne to the crown prince Gao Wei, who himself became the emperor of the night and night songs, similar to his second brother Gao Yang, who died in wine at the age of 32. Gao Wei was a famous comatose prince during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, and naturally did not please him, and was only 21 years old when he was given death by Yuwen Yong, the king of Zhou Wu.
The Northern Qi Dynasty did not leave good stories, such as Gao Changgong, the fourth son of Gao Cheng, Gao Changgong, the king of Lanling, who is not only one of the legendary four beautiful men, but also has the reputation of "a generation of war gods", and the people once had "Lanling King Entering the Formation" handed down. King Lanling had no ambitions to encroach on the family's royal power, but he was still killed by Gao Wei at the age of 33, otherwise Northern Qi might have survived under the tiger mouth of Northern Zhou for a few years.
The 28-year dynastic dream of Northern Qi turned over. If Gao Yang is reincarnated, in the face of the short-lived dynasty that his family has planned to create, I am afraid that he will first regret that he failed to kill it all, so that the descendants of stonemasons destroyed the dragon vein and damaged feng shui. As everyone knows, people are watching from the sky, a desolate dynasty, a dynasty where fathers and wives can be wives, brothers and wives can be wives, brothers cannibalize, uncles and nephews cannibalize each other, the heavens and the earth will be destroyed, and they will soon decay and collapse from the inside out.
The collapse of Northern Qi, in addition to its own desolation and decay, favoring traitors was also one of the reasons, and there were authoritarian troublemakers such as Mu Ti Po, Heshikai, and Gao Ana Qiu. According to legend, Gao Ana accompanied his master on a tour, traveled to the southern foot of Gushan Mountain, the north bank of the Fuyang River, and saw his master lingering, so he built a palace garden on the spot to please his master, which is the origin of Nanxiangtang Temple.
Nanxiangtang Temple and Beixiangtang Temple are 15 miles apart, one from flattery, the other from ambition, these chaotic thieves planned to achieve the wonder of the Xiangtangshan cliff cave complex.
Fortunately, in the rivers and lakes far from the court, there are also a group of ordinary and extraordinary craftsmen, who are not bound by the evil of politicians, they adhere to their faith, combine social customs, and with their ingenuity and craftsmanship, as well as originality and original craftsmanship, they have carved out the grotto art that cannot be replaced by the Moya Grottoes, such as the Dunhuang Grottoes, Yungang Grottoes, Longmen Grottoes and Maijishan Grottoes. These peerless and independent statues, as well as the scriptures engraved on stone, still influence the world's beliefs and aesthetics.
Touching the traces of the grotto carvings of Beixiangtang, the rock was cold and silent. I suddenly remembered the myth of the flying pigeon, and at this point I didn't know what to ask myself, did the rock really not speak? Or do rocks really speak?
Every grain on the rock, every line, every texture that has been changed, every symbol given meaning, every statue polished into the shape of a Buddha, seems to whisper something.
The longer you stay in the cave, the more you feel that countless heavenly machines are hidden deep in this cave wall, just waiting for the person who can break it.
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Mobile phone shooting, the Buddha face that cannot be seen clearly, the cave that cannot be seen
A friend who traveled with me told me that he had just meditated in the cave and settled quickly, and his joints, which had not been able to communicate for days, suddenly stretched. I am not a monk, so I don't understand it, I wanted to ask him what kind of cave he had settled, and I was afraid of being abrupt.
Presumably, friends will not choose the big Buddha cave to meditate, the ground is dripping with water, and there is a terrifying tomb above the head, which will definitely not be the ideal place to tune.
Dry and pleasant, there is nothing more than the Tang Cave mined in the Wuzhou Dynasty, it is high, the cave body is shallow, the air is fresh, and the light is just right, there are Maitreya, smile overlooking the earth, is a good place to meditate.
Tang Cave is also an interesting Buddha cave, the left is the lamp-burning Buddha, the right is Shakya Buddha, Maitreya sits in the middle, contrary to the conventional arrangement, it is said that Wu Zetian regarded himself as the reincarnation of Maitreya, and naturally had to sit in the middle. The person who worships the Buddha finally becomes the Lord of the Buddha, and above the faith, there is a legacy of a historical power.
Needless to say, statues are the language of the rock, and the story of a dynasty has been remembered ever since politicians carved the first imprint on the rock. But the language of the rock is not limited to this, along with the powerful people's blows to the rock, their ambitions, their political achievements, their evil ideas and their scandals are burned one by one, becoming evidence that the fire of war cannot be extinguished, the wind and rain cannot erode, the theft cannot be destroyed, and the will cannot be transferred.
At the same time, ever since politicians carved the first marks on the rock, the language began to leave behind history, politics, and the pincers of its diggers and holders. The beacon will eventually cool, the dynasty will disappear, the bones will turn to dust, and only the language left by the rock will remain in the memory until it no longer belongs to any individual.
How many years after the Hongmeng era, human beings came like dust, and at first they regarded the mountains as gods, and spent the years of drinking blood under the blessing of God. When they mastered the mystery of fire from the gods, learned the gold, stone and iron tools, turned around and began to engrave on the body of the gods, began to seal the mountains as gods, inscribed for the mountains, and added various wills to their mountain gods.
Later, human beings seemed to become more and more intelligent and powerful, and some people opened up the way, planted melons and fruits, said that this mountain was opened by me, this tree was planted by me, and began to occupy the mountain as king, and began to draw the ground as a prison. The original stone carvings evolved from admiration for God to trampling on God, and from trampling on God to slowly returning to calling God. Therefore, people carved Buddha images, carved scriptures, placed incense on them, and summoned the protection of Buddha.
Didn't the Buddha of Xiangtangshan have ever been enlightened? I can't see it. Since Northern Qi recorded the first evil thoughts here, the Gao dynasty has not been settled, and it took only one generation for them to go from holding the puppet emperors of Eastern Wei hostage to completing the creation of a new dynasty.
Has the Buddha of Hibikido Mountain really had a spiritual experience? I don't necessarily see it. In just 28 years since Gaoyang, the Northern Qi Empire has gone through five generations of kings, the oldest of whom is only 32 years old, and some died in the flower season when they were 17 years old, and there are not a few children who died as political enemies. The Gao dynasty has never been peaceful, and at the same time, it has never been peaceful, and it has finally fallen into a tragedy of cannibalism. But every relic has a projection of a dynasty, and Xiangtang Mountain is not excluded.
There are so many selfish hearts and so deep roots that I have never believed that there is some perfect way to keep everyone's souls clean. It is thought that good people establish good Buddhas, and evil people establish evil Buddhas, Buddha does not protect goodness and does not protect against evil, and the result is born from causes, and Buddha will not give alms for no reason.
A complex of stolen caves on the side of the road
For evil people, is it useful to open caves and build temples? Does head pillar incense work? Is it useful for incense candles to burn thicker and thicker? If you are a thief of chickens and dogs, why should Buddha protect you? Protect your adulterer from being discovered? Or cover your eternal life as an adulterer? If there really is such a Buddha in the world, it is also a Buddha of demons. Conversely, why should a pure and honest person pursue too much formalism, be at ease with good thoughts, and have a clear view of heaven and earth.
Human beings are still kind on the whole, and soon forgot Gao Yang's evil, continued to dig on the basis of his Lao Tzu's mausoleum, continued to carve, followed the imprint of kindness, and strived to smooth out the hidden pain of history and restore its original color of Buddhism.
Five
Today's Xiangtang Mountain is no longer the private property of the Northern Qi Dynasty, nor is there any incense to provide, and people from all over the world flock to touch its coldness, marvel at its ghostly work, and at the same time, lament its incompleteness.
Now to see the complete Xiangtangshan cave art, in addition to going to the North and South Xiangtang Temple, you must also go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, San Francisco Museum of Art, Columbia University Sackler Collection, University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology, Harvard University Art Museum, Washington Freer Museum, San Diego Museum of Art, Cleveland Museum of Art, University of Chicago School of Art, Kansas Nall Sun-Akins Museum, Royal Museum of Toronto, Canada, Victoria Albert Museum, UK, Osaka City Museum, Japan, etc. There are more than 5,000 stone carvings in Xiangtang Mountain, and the main statues are missing or destroyed to varying degrees, and a large number of Buddha heads, Buddha hands, and even entire Buddha statues have been lost overseas.
At the beginning of the last century, when the country's strength was weakened, the great powers were around, and the Xiangtangshan Buddha statue, because of its high artistic value, became a competition for collectors from all over the world. During this period, there were many self-theft guards, and Lu Qinzhai was one of them.
From September 2009 to January 2013, the "Xiangtangshan Grotto Sculpture Special Exhibition" was held throughout the United States, displaying 12 Xiangtangshan Grotto statues collected in museums or university institutions in New York, Chicago, London and other places.
This is also the first time that these Xiangtangshan stone carvings have been "gathered" after a hundred years of loss. Of the 12 exhibits in the special exhibition, 6 were sold by Lu Qinzhai, and it is no wonder that the New York Times report was titled "Mysterious Chinese Art Dealer Lu Qinzhai's Collection Exhibited in New York".
Xiangtangshan Grotto Sculpture Special Exhibition" live news photo
"Special Exhibition" Buddha Teachings and Indian Sitting Statues, Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Lu Qinzhai and her daughter
Lu Qinzhai was the first notorious dealer of cultural relics in the last century, and countless national treasures were lost overseas through his hands, including some of the greatest masterpieces in the history of Chinese art, such as the Salu Zi and Fist Mao Jun in the Zhaoling Six Jun, which he sold to the University of Pennsylvania Museum in the United States for $125,000.
The University of Pennsylvania Museum is known for its Chinese collection, including 11 cave statues from Xiangtang Mountain, China, five of which were by Lu Qinzhai. There is also a giant 81.3-centimeter-tall Xiangtangshan Buddha Head in Hall 206 of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, also courtesy of Lu Qinzhai.
The restored Hibido Pagoda and the statue complex with different heads
Today's Xiangtang Mountain, the caves are still there, but most of the statues are different in their heads, their limbs are incomplete, and traces of violent peeling can be seen everywhere, just like the Western buildings that survived the disaster in the Old Summer Palace, only the ruined walls were broken, leaving them to be hung by future generations.
Today's Xiangtang Mountain is both of the Taihang Mountain and the Yanhuang Land, and is both Chinese and the world's. Many of the exquisite stone carvings on Xiangtangshan have disappeared, and some of them have been preserved around the world in the form of cultural relics sales, which is both unfortunate and fortunate. Hibiki Tangshan went to the world in this way, and it was an honor full of sorrow.
The sky turned dark, and the night was gathering towards Drum Mountain, picking up the stairs, and there were lamentations echoing along the way. Passing by the temple at the foot of the mountain, an ancient pagoda is recovering on scaffolding, and when you look inside, in the barren courtyard, there are several headless giant stone Buddhas standing, and I can't bear to stop.
Looking back at Shigu Mountain, the Xiangtangsi Grottoes are like a scar on Gushan Mountain, small and deep there.
Source: Six Roots