Twists and turns of 2020,
The top veteran of the Magic City Japanese material circle is straight to the news, but the news is continuous,
Within 9 months, 2 good shops were opened in succession!
For 5 years, Taiwanese cuisine chief Kevin Naoji,
One hand sushi and one hand creativity,
Won the name of Omakase "White Moonlight" in the hearts of countless old foodies.
From 2,000 yuan per capita, reservation two weeks in advance, just standard!
As for the more than 10 kinds of sea urchin feasts presented every month,
It is also a charm point that can only be unlocked by regular customers
Except for the new store that returned to Gubei this summer
This late autumn, the izakaya on the 1st floor of the Revival Club,
Also inside and out renovation of the big transformation,
Present a new Japanese roast bird experience for diners,
Kill Qingyuan chicken alive every day, and the rare parts are all grabbed!
Want to know this Japanese material top stream that has stood in the magic capital for five years,
How much strength do you still have?
Shanghai WOW! This tells you!
The good news of 2020 has been continuous, and the veterans of the Magic Capital Japanese Material Industry have been straight to the top
The japanese cuisine aesthetic called "Kevin"
Nowadays, the leader of the high-end Japanese material circle of the magic city of points, and The Straight Wheel is a name that cannot be avoided. This veteran top stream that has stood in the magic city catering circle for five years, in 2020, instead of falling into a downturn due to various twists and turns, has made great strides all the way and opened two new stores in a low-key manner, which shows its strength and popularity.
Straight downstairs Ground floor bar old picture
From the first store in Gubei in April 2015, to the Fuxing Hui No. 2 store in the bustling downtown area in September 2019, to the Hongmei Third Store in the old hongmei restaurant in July this summer, behind the many regular customers and new customers who have been sought after by many regular customers and new customers for several years, it is naturally inseparable from the chef named "Kevin (Lin Jinting)" (Naoji is his Japanese name) - after all, the knowledgeable gourmets know that "the head chef in front of the board is the soul of a high-end Japanese restaurant." ”
Unlike many of today's sought-after pure-blood Japanese chefs, the talkative kevin is from Taiwan. He graduated from the Department of Conditioning at Hattori College in Tokyo in his early years, then honed his skills in Japan and Taiwan, and when he first worked at a Puffer Fish Cutting Restaurant in Tokyo's Nihonbashi area, he was hired as a teacher in less than three years to board the flower board, which is very rare in the strict Japanese cuisine industry.
Sushi Naoki Kohokushuten Kyu-Kaku
Many diners have a relationship with Kevin as far back as 2013, when he was the head chef at Asano Province on Julu Road. Two years later, when Asano Province came to an end, Kevin and his then-partner Edward and others decided to set up their own portal in Gubei, which many people were not optimistic about.
But looking back now, Kevin and the team clearly delivered a stunning full score. This late autumn, we received a mysterious invitation from Naoru.
Left: Hiro; right: Kevin
Goodbye to his old friend Kevin, still in front of the second floor of the Naoji (FuxingHui Shop), since the relocation last September, he has led his current right-hand man, former Yue Getsu chef Hiro, stationed here.
The second floor of The Fuxing Hui Shop
This 9-seat front space is decorated with a clean and elegant design, but it has its own magic. Now I want to make an appointment for positioning, prepare 2000+ silver, two weeks in advance, that is the standard.
The second floor has a terrace with a view of the wind
Cuttlefish sea urchin roll
One of Kevin's glittering signature dishes
The climax of this meal has been opened since the first "cuttlefish sea urchin roll".
After a short period of ripening of the cuttlefish, the body of the fish is crystal clear bright white, under Kevin's dexterous fingers quickly cut the flowers, gently rolled, wrapped in a bright red sea urchin, topped with fresh perilla flowers and noble Russian caviar, and finally sprinkled with rose salt and sea urchin powder seasoning, it becomes a delicate small clump that is reluctant to bite.
At the urging of the master, the first thing that was perceived between the lips and teeth was the thick soft glutinous flesh of the cuttlefish and the layers of fresh salt embellishment of rose salt and caviar, but this saltiness had not yet had time to spread, and it was quickly engulfed by the sweet milk fragrance of the red gall, and the layers were progressively advanced, and a soft and silky lump was drawn into the mouth, leaving only the aftersound.
The best cake: Horse dung sea urchin, Chiba Prefectural Pine Leaf Crab, Toyama Bay small white shrimp
Ears of wheat are small snacks that can be eaten
The strangely shaped "best cake", as the name suggests, looks like a sandwich biscuit. Two daisy-shaped biscuits with a very autumn atmosphere, scallops like opening and closing, the inner core is filled with horse dung sea urchin, hand-removed Toyama Bay small white shrimp and Chiba Prefectural pine leaf crab, a belly full of abundance!
When enjoying, be extra careful about the mischievous juice spilling, take a small bite, the crispy crust collides with the fresh and sweet filling, and between chewing, the triple fresh sweetness of sea urchin, white shrimp and pine leaf crab meat gradually blends, from shallow to deep, full of healing.
Seasonal fishing material: Hokkaido saury, raw tendons
While enjoying the high-end Japanese food omakase, speculating about what kind of seasonal fishing ingredients the chef will provide for the day board has always been a part of people who are tired and itchy. A good fish is like a good-looking skin bag and an interesting soul, and it is not necessary to meet silver.
Late autumn, the approaching of early winter, is a good time of year for autumn knifefish to be glued. Kevin peeled, deboned, cut flowers, and plated the saury with a knife in his hand, and on the dark golden ginkgo biloba leaves, the saury "fallen leaves" were quietly lifted, and the crimson flesh and green and white skin, each petal extended the texture of the leaf veins.
Before we move the chopsticks, we joke to Kevin that each of his works of art looks like a work of art, and the destruction is quite "sinful". The season's tender fish, with oily subcutaneous fat and dipped in grapefruit pepper (or ginger onion or radish puree), makes the unique sourness of silver fish more and more acute.
While eating happily, Kevin also took out a bottle of Tejo Yucho "And Now" worth 10,000 yuan from the sake cabinet, and the fresh mix of rice flavor and sweetness of pure rice Daigin brewed by the sea tide is more attractive.
The whole plate of saury has just been divided, and a long strip of raw tendons has appeared non-stop. Bright orange salmon roe, visible to the naked eye, scooped down a spoonful, the rich juice instantly exploded, full, tender, fresh and sweet to be intoxicating.
Octopus soft boiled white radish yellow mustard
Edo cutter vessel, worth 250,000 yen
While waiting for the highlight sushi to appear, Chef Hiro presented us with an octopus soft boil that sushi fans are familiar with the production process. The octopus, which is massaged for several hours before cooking, is soft and stiff without a trace of stiffness, and the yellow mustard is evenly applied to the surface of the octopus leg, and the slight sweetness and spice lining the taste level is even more jumpy.
Steamed eggs for hairy crabs
As a "transitional" dish, the steamed egg of hairy crab seems to be a home-cooked dish of the hairy crab season, but in fact, it is a test of the control of the heat by the kitchen team, if it is on the top, the thick and gorgeous crab paste, crab yolk and custard cannot be presented so beautifully.
Sushi: Colorful sesame gun squid, Oma tuna chin meat
Before the sushi session officially began, Kevin specially showed us the sariable rice he used. Mixing Hokkaido's Seven Star Rice with Niigata Prefecture's Uonumuma Hikari Rice, mixing it with some glutinous rice and seasoning it with pure red vinegar, the final product is a bit of an Edo-mae tone, but also considering the taste of the locals, it is not too salty and sour.
Kevin's signature dish is gun squid flower sushi
This gun squid sushi, one of Kevin's signature items, once again showcases his dazzling flower knife skills. After a quick cut, the smooth body of the fish is like a chrysanthemum, and when asked how long it will take to practice this magic technique, he told us, "at least three years."
Today's Oma tuna sushi, raw fish is taken from the larger fat and more rare and tender jaw meat. Swallowed all the time, the abundant grease oozed out like a towel, but it was strangely not fat, just moist like spring rain.
Australian beef udon noodles
After eating the fish, the last protagonist of the meal, the autumn and winter limited "beef noodles", also appeared grandly. It takes three days to boil the wonderful soup base, the first day to add Jinhua ham, old hen and a variety of seasonal vegetables stewed to make the base, the next day to add flower clams to enhance the flavor, and finally put in the Australian Wagyu beef steak to add flavor, after a long wait, there is such a pot of warm and fragrant essence ~ ~
There are 9 cat chopsticks in the shop
Corresponding to the front of the 9 plates, the shapes are different
The essence of the soup base, naturally with high-quality noodles, here is the use of indo udon. In the midst of the rise, we have a chopstick of beef, a chopstick of udon, a combination of fat and delicate strength, a bowl of belly is comfortable.
Regular Guest Hidden Menu:
The "extravagant" sea urchin feast that can be encountered by fate
After the meal, Kevin boldly asked if he needed to "add food"? Suddenly, the sweetness of the red gall, the smoothness of the purple gall, the tenderness of the horse dung sea urchin came to mind... So without hesitation, he proposed that he wanted to have another sea urchin hand roll.
There's a secret hidden here about the sea urchin cuisine that only hardcore regulars know – every month, Kevin will occasionally embark on a "luxury" sea urchin feast consisting of more than 10 auction-grade sea urchins at the Revival Club!
The date of the banquet is uncertain, it all depends on whether there can be good ingredients to support on that day! More than a dozen sea urchins that were airlifted from the high-priced auction at the Tsukiji market on the same day were neatly presented in front of the lucky ones who "grabbed" seats, turning into a pure sea urchin-themed Omakase extravagant feast.
Sashimi, steamed food, hand rolls, tempura, rice, ice cream... This yellow and clear umami "bomb" can not be rejected by every sea urchin lover. The sea urchin feast is usually priced at 3880 yuan / person, still all by fate, a difficult to find!
On the first floor, the burning bird hall "Unitary Front" is gorgeously transformed
40 skewers for easy winter fireworks
Unitary (have) before (money)
What's even more surprising is that the izakaya on the first floor of The FuxingHui Shop has recently been gorgeously transformed into a new nicho-yaki small restaurant "Unitary Torizen", and the lively reopening of the door is welcome!
Old friends who often come to this restaurant will feel familiar and unfamiliar with this space. It was originally the location of the Ground floor bar downstairs in the izakaya, and it had only been missing for a few months, so it had already changed its shotgun and started a pyrotechnic bird burning business.
Different from the pure elegance of the second floor, the newly unveiled Unitary Front TORIZEN, in addition to the "Japanese Garden" under the original Zhiyuan Building, can be seen everywhere in the design in line with the positioning of the Yakushikan, and the flexible chicken claw prints climb all over the walls, and every detail is full of ingenuity.
The opening hours here are two more flexible than in front of the second floor, the first set of reservations is 17:30, the second set of flops is 20:30, because each stall can receive up to 15 people, so when night falls, 5 red sofa card seats and 8 bar seats, always full of seats.
As for the only "round tabletop" Japanese-style Eight Immortals Table box on the first floor, it is also a sought-after position when friends and friends are invited to intimate dinners.
In line with the high-end omakase's dedication to fishing materials, this bird shop has extremely high requirements for ingredients! The raw materials for the roasted birds before the unitary are selected from the Qingyuan chickens that are killed and transported alive from Chongming every morning, and after arriving at the store, the roasted bird master's hands and feet are sharply skinned, shaved, and divided into meat... A plate of oily and shiny dishes has a unique beauty that is different from the ingredients of fishing ingredients.
In addition to the ingredients, a good string of roasted birds also tests the master's skills in the process of roasting. Master Xiao Yang has been immersed in the line of burning birds for 5 years, and his hands are all kung fu! The early winter menu here has a total of 26 roasted bird parts to choose from, each of which requires a master to subdivide the heat to control the rhythm.
Under the Japanese baking rack, there is Japanese Beichang charcoal, this kind of charcoal is the standard of high-end roasted bird shops, the fire temperature is higher than the ordinary charcoal fire, and comes with infrared penetration ability, which can make the ingredients heat evenly, and the food baked with it comes with a leisurely pyrotechnic gas.
Only stores that are very confident in ingredients serve chicken sashimi
"Sashimi Three Points" is all selected from a piece of tenderloin on the chicken breast, and is prepared in three ways: roasted on fire, blanched in boiling water, and fully raw, and is recommended to be eaten from cooked to raw, and the chewing is full of gradually increasing softness and elasticity.
Rare parts: Lanterns
The "lantern" that can also be pulled out of the rare parts of the burnt bird, the name is very poetic and elegant, which is actually the immature eggs and fallopian tubes in the hen's ovaries. The lantern in front of the unitary, between the yolk and the fallopian tube, also adds a small piece of chicken gizzard, the extremely crisp taste, in the bursting pulp splash of mellow egg liquid, more enriched.
In addition to the lanterns, there are also 8 rare parts such as white liver, chicken crown, and diaphragm on the new winter menu. Each chicken is provided with up to 2 pieces of "chicken oysters", and the live meat is taken from the root of the chicken leg, which is particularly tender and smooth in taste, without a trace of tendons;
"Qilixiang" is actually the familiar chicken butt, this Taiwanese nickname lets us see the shadow of Kevin's Taiwanese ancestry ~ the choice of the two pieces of meat with the most oily on the chicken buttocks, the plump chicken fat in the mouth is the pleasure of winter satisfaction.
Do not provide rare parts reserved before the unitary, whether you can eat all the luck on weekdays, but the regular parts with a lot of surplus, you should not underestimate.
Intimately prepared sauce roasted, salt roasted two ways to eat chicken thigh meat, dipped chicken skin penetrated, the entrance is crisp and full of gum, accompanied by juicy chicken, charcoal aroma like silk full of happiness.
If you eat a round of roasted bird skewers, you still feel that you are still unfinished, and you have also prepared 41 kinds of fried, boiled, grilled, edible, wine and snacks before unitary, finely distinguished, there are also a lot of Taiwanese flavors waiting for you!
Salted crispy chicken, which was popular during the Zhizhixia period, has a crispy dough, a light skin, and a well-preserved juice of tender chicken inside. When serving wine, I inadvertently pick up a chopstick of fried until crispy basil leaves, and take a sip lightly, the taste is like perilla tempura.
Fried dumplings are a very common dish in Japanese late-night cafeterias, but the existence of dumplings made with chicken skin is very rare.
Chicken skin dumplings shaped like shuttles, the thickness of the skin, from the sharp corners of the two ends to the center of the bulging sac gradually deepened, the orange-gold skin dipped in sweet and spicy sauce bites open, the grease ticked, and the chicken stuffing tasted very pure
The old gourmet Omakase returned to the Ancient North in enlightenment
From 2,000 yuan per capita, it is only standard
At the end of July this year, the new shop of Bai Zhiyuan, which returned to Gubei, was quietly hidden in a bend on Hongmei Road. The double-storey building wrapped in a bamboo structure is pure and elegant, leaving only a pair of "white cloth" hanging straight down, with a pine smoke ink pen to paint the word "straight", and the flower-shaped logo we are familiar with is eye-catching and domineering.
Stepping into the store, the U-shaped panel, which has only 10 seats, occupies most of the space, and the addition of red high-back chairs and red curtains makes this space more bright than that of the revival of the hui shop.
The personality is too good to be good, and the master is loved by the familiar customers
Still in the middle of the day, Master Ah Li and Master Youyi, who are now sitting in front of the Hongmei Road store board, have greeted us with a cheerful smile. These two Taiwanese chefs who have followed Kevin for many years have also quite an eye-catching resume.
Since 2002, Master Youyi has been breaking into Taiwan's Japanese food industry, and then successively sharpened in powerful restaurants such as Xinduli, Orange, and Kagaya Hot Spring Hotel, and finally came to Shanghai six years ago; Master Ah Li, on the other hand, is already an old face familiar to Naoto, and from 2016 to 2020, he has been following Master Kevin around, and every move has his own style.
Private room omakase from 2500 yuan / person
In addition to the front of the board, there are also 2 private rooms on the first floor and the second floor, which can be used by diners with private needs. The first floor small bag is for 2 people, which can accommodate up to 4 people to eat, while the private room on the second floor is more spacious, with a maximum capacity of 8 people.
Due to the large number of seats, the workload that needs to be prepared in advance is also large, and unlike the Fuxinghui restaurant, which can occasionally open the lunch market due to the demands of diners (4 people minimum booking), the lights in front of the Hongmei Road store board are only lit at night.
Admiring the beauty of the Japanese fishing material, we also heard from Master Ari, the straight Omakase, although the average person is 2,000, there is no limit, but it can also be stopped at any time, which can be described as very intimate - "If the guest can't eat or doesn't eat enough, you can tell us at any time." ”
Sake appetizers: Fukui Koki, Hokkaido Koihoji
The prelude to this meal begins with a Fukui amberjack. In November, along with the northern hemisphere winter, there are also fat amberjacks. Breaking through the cold barrier to the table of the amberjack, cherry blossom powder thick cut fish body, each slice is covered with frost lines, without any dipping sauce, the mouth melts the limelight, almost overshadowed.
It takes nearly a decade to grow, and it is a specialty of Ezo in Hokkaido. How to properly integrate the knife pattern into the snail meat is a test of the skill of the knife master. Accompanied by shiso sauce on the side, light curled snail meat, the first second conveys to the taste buds is crisp, and the second second with the sea breeze, is surging sweetness.
Surprise Easter Egg: Hokkaido Peony Shrimp, Toyama Bay White Shrimp, Hokkaido Red Bile
I was looking forward to the next hot food, when I suddenly saw Chef Ah Li bring a box of crystal cups with a little pride, telling us that this was a hidden Easter egg for this meal. On the rim of the crystal cup, there is a curved peony shrimp like a silver moon, and the plump shrimp meat is heavily pressed with red gall and caviar.
Shivering and scooping up a spoonful, he found that the bottom of the cup was still hiding the small white shrimp and shrimp puree of Fushan Bay that sucked up Shaoxing yellow wine. A spoonful of all the good to send into the mouth, soft glutinous sweet winter snow like lasting!
Turnip chrysanthemum bowl
The cold aroma of wine still reverberates on the tip of the tongue, and a touch of festive red is handed to the front. Chrysanthemums, which are particularly coveted by literati and inkers every autumn, have become the protagonists this time, with five colors, crowded together with "small dumplings" carved from turnips.
Dig a spoonful, the translucent "bun skin" is broken, revealing the inner stuffing of hairy crab meat, the sweetness of the turnip and the freshness of the crab meat are condensed into a spoonful, fresh and elegant just like the autumn day when the leaves fall outside the window.
Hairy crab saga and cow yam puree
As a consolation in the cold night, the oily Wagyu beef has always been a favorite of diners.
Qing Lingling a blue and white bowl, the pure white inner wall lined with bright yellow crab yellow crab paste and egg liquid, more gorgeous. Saga Wagyu beef, which is cut rectangular and roasted until it is just raw and cooked, is undoubtedly tempting your taste buds
Sushi: Pike in Tokyo Bay, Flounder in Hokkaido
The recipe of the same source of FuxingHui Shop and Hongmei Shop is also the same as the recipe of sariputta. Chef Ari kneads the sushi like a stream of water, and the fusion of fish and rice, bite viscosity, all well balanced.
The barracuda caught from Tokyo Bay is grilled with a hot skin and a little grapefruit pepper on the top, which is spicy when it is ingested, and the main tone is as good as ever.
Finally, consistently finishing sushi, we got the belly meat that was consistently taken from Hokkaido flounder. This season is not the best season to eat flounder, but this fat mackerel belly meat is hard to refuse, and after being grilled with a musket, the grease melts more transparently, matching the sweetness of the apple puree, and it is harmonious and perfect.
It is worth mentioning that on the side of the second floor, there is also a treasure bar hidden for the time being, which is only open to regular customers, and countless rare sake and whiskeys are welcome to welcome you to a drink before the formal meal
In the days when we are still far away from Japan, it is a great blessing in life to have such an old friend who can satisfy our longing for super good Japanese food in Ginza and covet the small street restaurants in Shinjuku. On the night of the first illumination, the main hall and annex hall that shuttle through the south and north of the city are derived from the happy memories of the taste buds, from the past five years ago to the years to come, never ending.
Naoki Sushi (Nijiume Store)
Address: Building 10, No. 3911, Hongmei Road
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 18:00-23:00
Naoru (Fuxing Club)
Address: Yancheng Road No. 46 2 floor
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 17:30-23:00
Unitary front TORIZEN (Fuxinghui store)
Address: Yancheng Road No. 46, 1st floor
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 17:30-24:00