This spring, a large number of "special-shaped" items rose in popularity, Berlin brand OTTOLINGER's "special-shaped sunglasses" can be called the top, sweeping global boutiques, and used by a large number of pioneer players, although the brand has previously become the "JPG replacement" of some players, but in recent seasons, OTTOLINGER's "personality" with science fiction literature has become more and more recognized by players.
Sunglasses, bags,
Boots and other "alien" out of the circle,
Referring to science fiction literature,
I especially love the "three-body problem":
OTTOLINGER was founded in 2015, the two directors Cosima Gradient and Christa Biisch, who were recruited by YE as YEEZY designers and appeared in the 2018 LVMH Prize list, the two designers design around the sexiness and intelligence of women, and their style is summarized in one sentence as "sexy female doctors who love pop culture";
"Special-shaped sunglasses" is the brand's recent representative item, the current domestic X-fish price is around 2800 RMB, inspired by cult sci-fi movies of the last century, using Y2K aesthetic color matching, creative, and full of fun, strange shape but excellent matching, constantly appearing in the PO pictures of pioneer dressing bloggers such as Connorxel;
"Special-shaped sunglasses" also "brushed the screen" in this season's Paris and Milan fashion week street shoots, Doja Cat, Tyga and other stars have worn them during the show, and because of their outstanding performance in Y2K matching, they are popular on Tiktok and are popped by many fashion bloggers, and often receive tens of thousands of likes;
In an interview with Dazed, designer Christa Biisch said that the brand design is deeply influenced by Chinese science fiction represented by "The Three-Body Problem": "We refer to Liu Cixin's "Three-Body Problem", which is interesting and integrates Chinese and European science fiction views, then Chen Qiufan's "Desolate Tide" futuristic story, focusing on society and class system, and Hao Jingfang's "Folding Beijing", a very abstract story;
The AW19, which pays homage to The Three-Body Problem, makes extensive use of psychedelic checks and glossy materials to create an urgent atmosphere facing the unknown of space
Also influenced by science fiction literature accessories "alien small bag", the shape is as potholed and distorted as an alien surface, but also in the fashion week street auction and major buyer stores social media brush screen, due to the special porcelain hard shell material, can not be closed, practicality is general, but does not prevent it from simply with a quirky sense of cuteness, so that female players can't put it down, more colors, difficult to collide, among which pink and white color matching is more popular, most of the current price is 3500-4000 RMB;
The same is true for shoe design, such as the "Down Moon Boots" launched last year, which refers to the spacesuit design in science fiction movies, exaggerated soft effect, and uses long strap elements, allowing players to bind at will to create different upper shapes and enhance the sense of structure of the piece;
When creating co-branded shoes, OTTOLINGER can also inject sci-fi avant-garde elements into everyday models, such as the cooperation with Camper, the more bland daily women's boots are reshaped with wide exaggerated shapes, laces, and the use of matte grainy high-grade materials to make the piece have an "alien texture", and even more "90s Japanese comic style figures" in the catalogue as a model, as if the "Intergalactic Cowboy" character is dressed, directly hitting Y2K enthusiasts.
Derived from female superheroes,
Tannin series, also known as Xinya,
Kylie bodice:
In addition to the high popularity of accessories and shoes, OTTOLINGER mainline clothing is also the darling of global boutiques and pioneer players, such as the digitally printed "graffiti tannin" suit, which takes into account sharp vision and sexy curves, inspired by the depiction of "female superheroes" in science fiction movies, Xinya wears magazine covers in a punk style, Kylie frequently tops in daily life, and prefers to use "tannin leg covers" to increase the layer:
左，via cosmopolitan
"Suit" is also quite popular among the player group, and the scimitar, straight fit "graffiti jeans" are also very popular, different styles of prices range from 3000-4000 RMB, waist design details are rich, in addition to cutting digital printing, but also add strap elements, visual layers are clear and sharp, leg elongation effect is obvious, often used to match short T, vest, bodice and other short babe-style items;
Interestingly, due to the sci-fi style graffiti prints and avant-garde cuts, many "male players" are also willing to try the brand's women's denim items, especially scimitar jeans and short denim jackets, although the shape is particularly narrow, the effect is very outstanding, and it also writes OTTOLINGER's feminist avant-garde design, subverting the concept of gender.
Acid prints, equally hot, have been "responding" to the "JPG flat" label:
Corresponding to the exquisite "digital printing" process on denim pieces, the "acid print" presented in dresses, T-shirts, skirts, polos and other yarn items is also a design that OTTOLINGER is good at, of which polo items have been covered by Kardashian;
The brand was branded with the "JPG Replacement" label, mostly because of the outstanding of such items, OTTOLINGER's use of acid prints, addiction to "sci-fi elements", and psychedelic checks with cyber-aesthetics, all reminiscent of JPG's classic designs in the 90s, singer-songwriter Charli XCX also commented that OTTOLINGER's wearing experience is "a super romantic version of the Fifth Element".
In fact, the two designers of OTTOLINGER are indeed fans of JPG and influenced by master designs, and have previously received an invitation from JPG to become "guest designers", reshaping classic stripe prints and sailor elements, and receiving a lot of praise;
BUT THEREFORE OTTOLINGER IS SIMPLY A REPLACEMENT FOR BRANDS SUCH AS JPG, IN FACT, IT IS NOT ACCURATE, OTTOLINGER IS COMPLETELY UNBOUND BY HISTORY, AND HAS A "PERSONALITY" BELONGING TO THE INFORMATION AGE, IN TERMS OF IMAGES, LESS CULT AND RELIGIOUS ELEMENTS OF THE "GRAND NARRATIVE", MORE EMPHASIS ON "ATMOSPHERE";
And more abstract expressions of sci-fi elements and pop culture symbols, and then add romantic observations of the "micro life" around them: for example, in the new season of 23FW, "Tanuki Cat" printed items frequently appear, which vividly reflects the laziness, cuteness and disdain of cats;
OTTOLINGER FW23
References to idols, fashion history, and being labelled by the outside world are inevitable for designers, but OTTOLINGER maintains the love and deconstruction of current pop culture, and making intelligent and sexy "personalities" repeatedly out of the circle is the best response.