The Square and Beyond
This side, the other
Time is like a piece of cloth, folded and unfolded, and the cycle goes on and on.
The rhythm is sometimes clustered and sometimes fluid.
Near-perfect harmony also has the opposite side.
Unfold, turn, bend, meet, separate, jump, repeat, extend, expand, rest.
in a subtle and bold way;
in a concise and complex way;
In a fluid and very different way.
Patterns and colors flow from the canvas.
This side, the other side,
The changed square gives unlimited freedom.
New creativity is born in the eternal laws that run through the world.
The ISSEY MIYAKE Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection was launched on 3 March 2023 at the Théâtre de Châtelet in Paris under the theme "The Square and Beyond", tracing the traditional method of creativity and inspiration based on a square shape, a canvas, or a sheet music, fabric... Reinterpret it. The new collection integrates square shapes into it, continuing the brand's philosophy and technology, exploring "this side" and "the other", interpreting its oriental dressmaking philosophy - emphasizing the relationship between clothing and the human body, and presenting an unconventional aesthetic through the exploration of the unfilled space of clothing and wearer.
The fashion show kicked off with a marimba performance by the renowned French trio percussion group Trio SR9. As the music plays softly, the tension on the stage gradually dissipates. Models walked in the spotlight in square-inspired new season outfits and made an elegant call against the backdrop of the opulent and empty opera house.
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This collection is characterized by a canopy silhouette design that wraps around the body, and the three-dimensional structure formed by the CANOPY collection from multiple angles is made of soft stretch fabric with minimal seams, making its unique structure even more eye-catching.
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INSPIRED BY SQUARE MOVEMENT AND TRANSFORMATION, THE SQUARE SCHEME COLLECTION IS CHARACTERIZED BY THE USE OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY TO CREATE UNIQUE SHAPES. The knitted square shape is woven by combining horizontal and longitudinal knitted structures. When the knitted structure is stitched with the woven square fabric, irregular contours are naturally formed. Finally, the square pattern is printed on the woven fabric, further emphasizing the change of form.
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The RHYTHM CHECK collection is inspired by the check pattern that alternates in rhythm. Intentional shrinkage creates a soft, three-dimensional silhouette of the fabric. The shrink yarn is woven into the fabric in a grid pattern, and after treatment with high-temperature water, the difference in the size of the fabric before and after processing is nearly doubled, and the final result is the unique shrink texture of the series.
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The COUNTERPOINT seamless knitting series is characterized by irregular shapes created by differences in knitting structures. The front and back sides are woven in different directions, and in the process they interact with each other, forming irregular patterns such as curved shapes. The stripe pattern not only shows the weaving direction, but also further highlights the twisted shape wrapped around the body.
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THE SHAPED CANVAS COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY IRREGULARLY SHAPED CANVASES. This collection uses a double weave technique, where the two pieces of fabric are seamlessly connected, and the neck and body parts are woven separately. The silhouette is angular, the colors are contrasting strongly, and the special weaving technique allows the garment to be worn on both sides.
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The RECTILINEAR series consists of rectangular patterns in contrasting colours that are woven horizontally into a linear pattern. The angular pattern silhouette jumps up and down with movement, adding a touch of color to the softness of the knitwear. RECTILINEAR: MILLED IS A COAT COLLECTION WOVEN BY A JACQUARD MACHINE WITH THE SAME PATTERN, WITH A RECTANGULAR PATTERN THAT STRONGLY ACCENTUATES THE TEXTURE OF THE PRINT. Despite its large size, it is also surprisingly light and comfortable.
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The SQUARE ONE series was the starting point for the design of this series. The bold creation of the square pattern print on the fabric symbolizes the source of creativity in the early creative stage. This series is characterized by the use of a part of washi fabric, which gives it a linear form and a tough touch. This fabric is made and produced with an environmentally friendly concept and does not waste excess fabrics.
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The SQUARE handbag collection seems to be lightly and unintentionally covered by a piece of fabric, showing a loose drape as the body moves.
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© 2023 ISSEY MIYAKE INC.