In the movie Coco, it is said that the end of life is not death, but forgetting. Here, people feel a strong sense of remembrance and longing for Vivienne. Using costumes as a medium, Vivienne's spirit never left and truly staged an affectionate and evocative performance.
She was the mother of punk in fashion, opening avant-garde clothing stores with absurd and distinctive designs. Her unique style, such as irregular cuts and structures, exaggerated and complex nonsensical dressing, contrasting and matching of different materials and decors, etc., led her to become a master of British fashion after winning the title of "Designer of the Year" in the UK in 1990/1991.
When the show began, the first look was a printed T-shirt with Vivienne's avatar. In the image, she wears red eye makeup and looks at the guests with sly eyes. At the scene, Mr. Kira told us that the portrait of Empress Nishi was happy, ghostly, and enthusiastic, as if it was a party to see her off and did not want people to be sad.
Prints, high-heeled boots, punk brooches, tweed suits, corsets, ruffles... The collection highlights the development and highlights of Vivienne Westwood's career, and re-enacts classic oversized coats, pleated dresses and even a reappearance of platform boots inspired by Naomi Campbell's Fall/Winter 1993-1994 fashion show podium.
To applause from the guests, Vivienne's granddaughter Cora Corré ended the show in a corset and white bridal outfit, and her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, walked out quickly to complete the emotional tribute.
At Alexander McQueen's Fall/Winter 2023 show, six Chinese models, including Zhang Lina, He Cong, Ouyang Ying, Shao Minghao, Yang Ling and Liu Wen, participated in the catwalk, among which Liu Wen wore an eggplant polyester grosgrain long dress with exaggerated neckline details and a fluffy skirt.
Referring to the collection's main motif, creative director Sarah Burton said: "As the main motif in the collection, the orchid is presented in its rare cultivated form, it is one of the most common flowers besides daisies. It blooms in the air, grows in the wild, refuses to take root easily. It's surprisingly beautiful, yet it's incredibly adaptable. Its posture is both like a hunter and like a prey. In the language of flowers, it is a symbol of love. ”
Mr. Kira points out that it's nice to see Alexander McQueen bring classic cuts back to the runway. The structured treatment of the shoulder line, the almost inverted triangle silhouette, the bevel of the hem and the extension and cinching of the skirt... Many of the tailoring methods are typical of the brand.
Hermès, who has been well received, has earned the limelight this year. Just last month, the brand, announcing a 23% surge in sales in the fourth quarter of 2022, decided to give a one-time special bonus of €4,000 to each of its 19,700 employees to encourage the team's efforts.
Distinguished by its exquisite craftsmanship of extreme luxury and excellence, Hermès is the top luxury brand in the hearts of most French people. In addition to the limited-edition handbags of the guests at the guest table, the hourglass-shaped handbags and bucket bags on display at the show were also yearning. Suede knee-length boots, handbags that light up understated shapes – the earthy color palette makes each look both autumn and winter warmth and restrained premium.
The showroom in Paris featured young designer brands, and genderless brand Private Policy, which just concluded its New York fashion launch, presented its new season of "We are all animals" collection at ESMOD. The two core spirits of the brand are "environmental sustainability" and "reflecting international youth culture".
According to Qu Siying, one of the founders, the series aims to call people to rethink the relationship between humans and nature, and in addition to direct illustrations and prints of endangered animals, it also uses a large number of organic fabrics such as eco-friendly fur and renewable leather. "We realized it was possible to incorporate more nature into our current urban life. To think about how we humans are inspired by animals, how we can be as free as they are, and live in harmony with nature like them. ”WWD
Written by Liu Ziyi
Editor-in-charge Yalta
Video credit: Shi Biqiong and the Internet
Image source: Brand official and online