Note: Friends with sensitive skin must collect this article!
When I was young, I was ignorant, thinking that the stronger the cleansing ability of the facial cleanser, the better, and I used a lot of pores to deep cleanse and oil control and scrub, I had to wash the "oil" on my face until there was not a drop left.
When I grew up, I found that the current "face" problems such as sensitive skin, enlarged pores, and imbalance of water and oil may all be a history of blood and tears "made" by myself.
There are more and more facial cleansers on the market, how to choose a gentle and safe facial cleanser? Consumer Reports has reviewed 14 facial cleansers, so check out the results.
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Methylisothiazolone (MIT), methylchloroisothiazolone (CMIT), methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, formaldehyde
[Previously, we have released the subjective trial of 14 facial cleansers, please poke for details: 14 facial cleanser evaluation: 11 alkaline, lady-level facial cleanser reputation was "Waterloo"]
5 highly allergenic preservatives MIT and CMIT were detected
Preservatives have become one of the most concerned issues for consumers due to factors such as their allergenicity.
There are two main types of isothiazolinone preservatives, namely methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT). Such preservatives on the market are often used in combination in a ratio of 3:1, called "karson". Therefore, there are two cases of methylisothiazolinone use, one is used alone, and the other is in the form of adding carsone, that is, the MIT/CMIT complex.
General preservatives only have killing effect on fungi or certain types of bacteria, because MIT is a broad-spectrum bactericide, all microorganisms have excellent antibacterial properties, coupled with low price, low dosage, easy to match and other characteristics, MIT in the cosmetics industry once became "fragrant food".
However, with the deepening of MIT research, it has been found that the clinical cases of MIT-induced allergies have increased significantly.
The European Cosmetics & Personal Care Association conducted a comprehensive review of MIT's clinical, toxicological and cosmetic alert data, and in 2014, based on an evaluation of the available data and research results, concluded that there was sufficient evidence to link the use of resident cosmetics containing MIT to contact allergy and allergic contact dermatitis.
The European Union has banned the use of MIT in resident products, and the added concentration of MIT and MIT/CMIT mixtures in rinse products cannot be higher than 0.0015% (15mg/kg).
In mainland China, the Safety and Technical Specifications for Cosmetics (2015 Edition) stipulates that the maximum added concentration of MIT is 0.01% (100mg/kg), and the limit of MIT/CMIT mixtures is 0.0015% (15mg/kg).
The test results showed that the content of MIT (and CMIT) was detected in 5 facial cleansers, the content of MIT was 0.334mg/kg~3.5mg/kg, the content of CMIT was 0.262mg/kg~8.13mg/kg, and the content of both preservatives was within the standard range.
Among them, An Yanke and Nivea only detected MIT, and Dabao, Ximuyuan, and Yuemuzhiyuan detected MIT and CMIT at the same time, indicating that these three were added to the product in the form of Kasson.
From the data, the highest use of MIT and CMIT is Dabao, 3.5mg/kg and 8.13mg/kg, respectively, and the content of MIT/CMIT mixture reaches 11.63mg/kg, which is close to the minimum standard line (15mg/kg).
The label of cosmetics refers to the words, numbers, symbols, patterns and instructions placed in the box attached or printed on the sales packaging of cosmetics, which plays the role of conveying product information to consumers and is the manufacturer's commitment to product quality. According to the provisions of the Regulations on the Administration of Cosmetics Labeling and GB 5296.3-2008 "Instructions for the Use of Consumer Goods: General Labels for Cosmetics", cosmetics need to be marked with all ingredients.
In this test, An Yanke detected MIT (2.99mg/kg), Ximuyuan detected MIT (1.5mg/kg), CMIT (0.262mg/kg), and the two models were not labeled on the packaging as containing methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone, and the label did not match the ingredients.
△Elta MD amino acid foam cleanser ingredient list
△Ximuyuan camellia soothing cleansing foam ingredient list
Ximuyuan showed the test report of the same batch of products to this journal, and the test results of methylisothiazolidone and methylchloroisothiimidazolone showed that they were "not detected".
Regarding the detection of preservatives not indicated on the label of Ximuyuan Camellia Dipping Soothing Cleansing Foam, Ximuyuan mentioned: "According to the national standard "Instructions for Use of Consumer Goods: General Label for Cosmetics" (GB 5296.3-2008), the names of all ingredients of cosmetics should be truthfully marked on the visible surface of cosmetics sales packaging. Cosmetic ingredients are ingredients that are purposefully added to a product's formulation during production and play a role in the final product. In order to ensure the quality of cosmetic raw materials, trace stabilizers, preservatives, antioxidants and other ingredients added to raw materials, although they should be filled in in the product formula, do not belong to the category of cosmetic ingredients and can not be marked on the product label. The filing time of Ximuyuan Camellia Penetrating Soothing Cleansing Foam is April 23, 2020, which complies with the national guidelines for labeling on the visible surface of cosmetics sales packaging. ”
In response to this situation, Peng Guanjie, R&D director of Vanke Biotechnology (Guangzhou) Co., Ltd. and senior cosmetic formulator, believes that according to previous regulations, some trace ingredients such as antioxidants and preservatives added to some raw materials themselves can not be labeled. He also said that "the current transition period is relatively vague, but some of the company's information, when upgrading, the elements that were not written before are gradually written out."
The journal also consulted the engineer in charge of this test, she said, "The detection content is so high does not rule out the possibility of artificial addition, because the raw materials should be very small, even below the detection limit, and the factory will generally check the raw materials." ”
It is worth mentioning that as long as the concentration of use is below the national regulations, if there are no adverse reactions to the use of products containing MIT and CMIT, there is no need to worry. However, for sensitive skin and the eye and lip area, avoid products containing these preservatives.
Suitable Materia Medica, Dr. Yao Er detected paraben preservatives
Appearing as a "controversial ingredient", there are often paraben preservatives.
Parabens are a group of parabens used as preservatives in skin care products, most commonly methylparaben, ethyl, propyl and butyl.
Parabens have been used for preservative protection since 1920 because they are effective in antimicrobial at low concentrations.
It is generally believed that in the order of A, B, C, and D, the higher the ranking, the smaller the risk. At the concentrations allowed by the state, short-chain paraben (methylparaben, ethylparaben) is safer than long-chain paraben (propylparaben, butylparaben).
Because paraben preservatives can be absorbed by the skin, there is currently some controversy over the safety of the use of paraben preservatives. Studies have shown that excessive use of parabens in cosmetics may lead to contact dermatitis. In addition, parabens also have estrogen-like effects, and long-term exposure may interfere with the body's normal endocrine levels.
In 2014, EU regulations explicitly prohibited the use of propylparaben, butylparaben and their salts in resident products in diaper areas for infants under 3 years of age.
In 2014, the EU cosmetics regulation EC 1223/2009 stipulates that the concentration of long-chain esters such as propylparaben and its salts, butylparaben and its salts when used alone is reduced from 0.4% to 0.14%, the total concentration shall not exceed 0.8% when mixed with other permitted parabens, and the concentration of short-chain esters such as methyl esters and ethyl esters alone shall remain unchanged at 0.4%.
The mainland "Safety and Technical Specifications for Cosmetics" (2015 edition) also has limited requirements for parabens, with the maximum dosage of single esters being 0.4%, the maximum dosage of mixed esters being 0.8%, and the concentration limit of propylparaben and its salts, butylparaben and its salts being 0.14% when used alone.
The test results showed that the two paraben preservatives detected by Yiyi Materia Medica, Dr. Yaoer, were both short-chain parabens with relatively low risk. Among them, methylparaben was detected in suitable herbal medicine 1100mg/kg, and methylparaben was detected by Dr. Yaer with 3.84mg/kg and ethylparaben 6.08mg/kg.
It is worth mentioning that the preservative ingredients actually detected by Dr. Yaoer, MUJI, and Birou are inconsistent with the label.
Dr. Yao did not label the package as a paraben preservative, but detected two of them, which may be misleading for the "ingredient party" who only gets the key information from the label.
△Dr. Alva Amino Acid Refined Research Purifying Cleansing Honey Ingredient List
MUJI and BISOFT nominally used methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, and the test results showed that one or more of the above preservatives were "not detected", and there are two possibilities:
1. Does not contain the preservative at all;
2. The content of this preservative is lower than the detection limit.
△MUJI Soft Cleansing Foam ingredient list
△ (Kao) Birou Cleansing Bubble (Moisturizing Type) ingredient list
If it is the first case, then MUJI and Birou are different from the claims. If it is the second case, whether the preservative content that is too low can still exert the corresponding antiseptic effect remains to be verified.
Shanghai Kao Co., Ltd., to which Birou belongs, replied to this journal: "The four ingredients marked in this product: 'methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate', 'ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate', 'propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate', and 'methyl butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate' are brought in by other raw materials, and are not actively added in the formula design, so their content is extremely low." These four ingredients are not intended to support the preservative effects of this formula. ”
As of the time of this publication, Dr. Yao Er and MUJI have not responded to the actual detection of preservative ingredients that are inconsistent with the label.
Formaldehyde was detected in the Royal Nifang and Nature Hall
Talking about aldehyde discoloration has become a common phenomenon in recent years.
However, the application of formaldehyde in cosmetics, consumers still know very little, how can there be formaldehyde in cosmetics? Where does this formaldehyde come from?
Formaldehyde in cosmetics mainly comes from the use of formaldehyde sustained-release preservatives in the formula, such as DMDM hydantoin, etc., which can continuously and slowly release free formaldehyde during the storage and use of cosmetics, forming an environment that is not conducive to the growth of microorganisms, which is equivalent to an ultra-low concentration formalin antiseptic formula.
In addition to being a recognized carcinogen, formaldehyde is also a skin sensitizer recognized by the European Union Committee for the Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics (SCCS). When cosmetics contain trace amounts of free formaldehyde, the risk of carcinogenesis is low, but relevant studies have shown that there is still the possibility of sensitization in some people.
Although the public opinion trend of "safety issues" has put pressure on brands, there will still be some that continue to use such antiseptic ingredients. This journal lists several formaldehyde-releasing preservatives commonly found in cosmetics:
The mainland has strict restrictions on formaldehyde used as a preservative in cosmetics, requiring a total amount of no more than 0.2%, and it is prohibited in spray products. In addition, when the concentration of free formaldehyde in the finished product exceeds 0.05%, it must be marked with "formaldehyde-contained" on the product label. Through the above measures, reduce the health effects of formaldehyde in cosmetics on human health.
In October 2021, the EU revised the regulations on the labeling of formaldehyde releasers in cosmetics, and in order to further protect consumers sensitive to formaldehyde, the labeling requirements for formaldehyde releasers were reduced from the original concentration of 0.05% to 0.001%. That is, the formaldehyde concentration is required to exceed 0.001%, and all finished products containing formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing substances must be labeled with a warning label "containing formaldehyde".
Among the 14 facial cleansers evaluated this time, only Naturedo and Ounibo claimed to use the formaldehyde-releasing preservative DMDM hydantoin.
The test results showed that trace amounts of formaldehyde were detected in Yunifang and Naturetang, which were 0.0308% and 0.0414%, respectively, and did not exceed the national standard limit of 0.2%.
If you have normal skin, you can safely buy cosmetics that meet the requirements of regulations on the market. If you have a clear allergy to formaldehyde, or belong to sensitive skin, this journal recommends choosing cosmetics that do not contain formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.
[Special Statement]: The test results and brands mentioned in this report are only responsible for the test samples, and do not represent the quality status of their same batch or other models of products.