"Dongfeng blowing kaba ni hoi o koseyo plum blossom ari nashi to spring na forget--sugawara no michizane (梅花啊,春风吹过之时请将那梅香寄予此风,即便我不在此也不会oblivion 春天--菅原道真)"
#01
Japan "plum culture"
When people think of Japan, the first thing that comes to mind is cherry blossoms. In fact, in Japan before the Heian period, plum blossoms had a higher status than cherry blossoms. "Hanami (hanami)" in the Nara period refers to plum blossom viewing, not cherry blossoms. In Japan's earliest collection of Japanese songs, Manyoshu, the song of Eime is more than twice as large as the song of Yong Sakura.
Viewing flowers and writing poetry was originally an elegant game between literati and aristocrats. In the Nara period, when there were frequent exchanges with the Tang Dynasty, the treasure "plum blossoms" from the Tang Dynasty naturally became the object of chasing and praise by the nobles. However, in the Heian period, at the suggestion of the Japanese god of learning, Sugawara Michijin, the system of sending Tang envoys was abolished, and there was a huge cultural shift from "Tang culture" to "national style (Japanese) culture". Under this trend, the support of Japan's indigenous culture since ancient times was emphasized, and the momentum of cherry blossoms gradually overshadowed plum blossoms.
But even so, the "plum culture" has tenaciously taken root in Japan, especially in the ancient capital of Kyoto. Literary and artistic works and anecdotes related to plum blossoms in Kyoto are endless, and even Sugawara Michijin, who proposed the abolition of the Tang envoy, is a famous "Ame family".
It is rumored that Sugawara Michima has loved Mei since childhood, and chanted poetry Yongmei at the age of 5. Later, Sugawara Michijin moved from Kyoto to Dazaifu in Kyushu, and before leaving, he sang to the plum blossoms in his house, "O plum blossoms, when the spring breeze blows, please send the plum fragrance to this wind, even if I am not here, I will not forget the spring." The plum blossoms who heard this song drifted from Kyoto to Dazaifu overnight and took root. This is the famous "Legend of Feimei".
Courtesy of Dazaifu Tenmangu
After Sugawara Michijin's death, he was regarded as the god of learning in Japan because of his intelligence and knowledge from an early age. The large and small "Tenmangu" dedicated to the god of learning has become a famous plum viewing spot. And the "head office" of Tenmangu Shrine all over Japan, the "Kitano Tenmangu Shrine" in Kyoto, is definitely a famous place for plum viewing on the list.
#02
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine's plum viewing tour
I went to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine this time last year. Initially not for plum blossoms, but for "learning". For several days at home, I was writing papers and reading literature at home, which made me lose my vitality day by day. The insomnia for several days made me feel that all my perceptions were degrading and dull, and I was like a puppet that had been sealed in the dust for many years.
I want to go out and catch my breath. Having experienced a lot on the road of learning, I wanted to visit the god of learning, hoping to inject some energy into my depleted brain. It was a very nice day, sunny and blue sky. When I walked out of the room, I was like a beast that suddenly woke up from hibernation, lamenting that it was clearly winter a second ago, and one end of the room did not know when it would become spring. Walk to Million-Ten Station, take bus number 203, and stagger for 20 minutes to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine.
There are still no tourists. But the sound of vehicles driving, the crisp footsteps on the stone path, and the whispers of people walking by in pairs bring some real sense of life. It was a really beautiful day, everything was so bright, but everything seemed to be pressed into such a layer of gray.
Step into the huge torii gate and walk slowly on the wide stone path, and the surroundings are quiet. The two sides of Omotesando are lined with tall pine trees, interspersed with large and small "cow statues". Just as when people think of the Inari Shrine, the god makes the fox, when it comes to Tenmangu Shrine, the natural envoy is the cow. The most famous "cow statue" in Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is the "Fu Niu" near the two sides of the "building gate", and it is said that you will become wise by touching the "Fu Niu" with your hand and then touching your head. The jet-black "Fu Niu" has long been touched by the worshippers, and the sunlight shines brightly without dazzling.
Bypassing the "building gate" and turning around to the "Lying Cow Statue" at the entrance of the treasure hall, the white plum above his head opened just right. The small and firm plum blossom branch is like a small umbrella, covering the "lying cow", as the line of sight moves, the dark pink star point slowly invades, the original red plum behind is also jumping, I took a few steps back, stretched the line of sight, the red and white plum blossoms looked very lively.
Photo: Plum blossoms in front of the treasure hall of Kitano Tenyu Palace. Image from the web
Walking out of the treasure hall and continuing deep into the territory, he came to the Sanguang Gate. It was my favorite view of the day. In front of the Sanguang Gate, lions and tamarins stood majestically on both sides, and the white plums on the side surrounded the two sacred beasts. Proud Hanmei, who has always been known for her tenacity, actually looked a little playful and cute in front of the divine beast, and the expression of the divine beast became witty and interesting under my stop and gaze.
Photo∣ Plum blossoms in front of the Mikomon of Kitano Tenyu Palace. Image from the web
Enter the main hall of "National Treasure" through the Sankomon. Looking around, "left plum right pine". The red plum on the left is the only plum tree allowed to be planted in front of the gods among the more than 1,000 plum trees in Tianmangu Palace, and legend has it that this tree has existed since the construction of Tianmangu Palace, and has been passed down from generation to generation in the form of a joint tree, which is also the origin of the "Legend of Feimei". The red plum and green pine in front of the main hall is like the male lion and fox dog in front of the Sanguang Gate, majestic and lovely.
Photo: Kitano Tenyu Shrine Main Hall. Image from the web
After that, I returned the same way and came to Meiyuan. Famous as one of Japan's "Snow Moon Hanasa-en", the Umeen Garden is home to more than 1,500 plum trees and more than 50 species. Every year, when the plum blossoms are in full bloom, the plum garden is opened, usually from early February to late March.
The plum blossoms in classical China are always thin and solitary. "There are several plums in the corner, and Ling Han opens it alone." It's my inherent knowledge of plum blossoms. However, after stepping into Meiyuan, my understanding of plum blossoms was completely overturned. The dense flowers were overwhelming, and the chill in the bones of the plum blossoms was dispelled by the enthusiasm of this mountain and sea, and I felt for the first time that plum blossoms can also be fiery. The delicate pink weeping plum gently floated with the rhythm of the breeze, and the beautiful gesture made me realize for the first time that plum blossoms can also be soft bones. Close to the light smell, a sweet and sour fragrance poured into the nose and throat, worthy of plum blossoms, bright but not enchanting, sweet but not greasy.
Photo: Kitano Tenyu Miya-meen. Image from the web
My senses, which were like a pool of stagnant water, seemed to be stirred up by plum blossoms, but the ripples quickly disappeared.
#03
It's coming, don't worry
A long-lost trip at this time last year did not cure my illness, but the unexpected encounter with plum blossoms left me with precious memories, so that I can still recall those trivial and touching details to this day. The limited physical strength was not enough to support me to walk too far, and my journey to plum viewing ended in an instant like a dragonfly with a little water. But if you want to have fun, be sure to try the following options.
▶ Participate in the Plum Blossom Festival on February 25th
February 25 is the day that Sugawara Michima, the god of Tenmangu Shrine, dies, so a plum blossom festival is held every year on this day to mourn him. The official festival will be held at 10 a.m. in front of the main hall, where rice and a "paper stand" with plum branches are offered. In addition to plum branches, the paper stand contains genmai, which is called "Remmy Ami", and can be bought at a shop in Tenmangu Shrine after the festival, and if you take it home and cook it with rice, it has the effect of driving away evil spirits and eliminating disasters.
Photo: The altar of the Plum Blossom Festival. Image from the web
At the same time, the "Nochikan Daichayu" event will be held, and geisha and maiko from Kyoto's Kamishaken will be held, and participants can enjoy matcha tea and Japanese tea in the territory. However, you must purchase a "Wild Point Worship Ticket" in advance to participate in this event, and there is a limit on the number of people. This year's "Worship Tickets" will be available from January 28 at the "Bundo Kaikan" in Tenman Palace, on a first-come, first-served basis, while stocks last.
Figure ∣ "Wild Spot Big Tea Soup Activity". Image courtesy of Earth Traveler
▶ Night plum viewing
Cherry blossom viewing at night is also a unique and elegant event that you can experience in Japan. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine is lit up at night when the plum blossoms are at their most prosperous, and the atmosphere of the plum garden at this time is completely different from that during the day, and it is dreamy and beautiful, like a fairy tale world. The small lamp hanging on the plum branch is not an ordinary electric lamp, but a small candle embedded in a transparent glass jar, which is exquisite and cute and ensures the natural and simple harmony of the plum garden.
Figure ∣ Meiyuan lit up. Image from the Japanese network
Figure ∣ Meiyuan lit up. Image from the Japanese network
This year, Kitano Tenmangu Pond is lit up from February 24 to March 19, after sunset - 8pm, and last entry at 7:40pm.
▶ Dessert and coffee tour
The vicinity of Kitano Tenmangu Shrine can also be counted as a collection of famous shops. Especially many old Japanese style shops. Since you are here, it is better to find a small shop, have a cup of afternoon tea, and let the mind and body relax.
The "Awasho and Sawaya" in front of the gate of Tenmangu Shrine has a history of more than 300 years since its establishment in the second year of Edo Tenwa. It is a wagashi shop that is very traditional in terms of interior and taste. Star commodity corn cakes are mainly available in two flavors, red beans and soybean flour, with moderate sweetness, smooth bean paste, and rich aroma of bean flour, and the best consumption date is limited to the day.
Photo: Awasho and Sawaya. Image from the Japanese network
Photo: Corn cake set. Image from the Japanese network
The "Tenjindo Rice Cake" baked rice cake next to the east gate of Tenmangu Shrine is a long-established shop with a history of more than 70 years. The exterior style of the store is as simple and simple as the baked rice cakes it sells. It is common to see people visiting the shrine or students after class coming here to buy one or two baked rice cakes and eat them as they go. The light crust is burnt while retaining the soft and sticky texture, and the filling is rich and solid but not sweet. Rice cakes are available daily while stocks last.
Photo: Tenjin Hall. Image from the Japanese network
Photo: "Tenjindo Temple" baked rice cakes. Image from the Japanese network
Jam Jar Lounge, a café that has been renovated from a traditional kyomachi house, is about a 5-minute walk from Kitano Tenmangu Shrine and is owned by an Australian owner. From the outside, this shop looks like a traditional Kyoto-style wooden house, but when you walk inside, you can feel a strong Western-style retro atmosphere. The restaurant's favorite dish is Australian style grilled sandwiches, and the quality of the coffee is also highly praised. The toast with moderate thickness is coated with fragrant butter, put in a sandwich machine and baked to make a crispy crust, and the rich layered filling flows out in one bite... Paired with a cup of fragrant American style, it can be a luxurious afternoon tea or a solid brunch. Although the restaurant does not have a long history, it is a star coffee shop that has soared in popularity in recent years, and has been introduced by many media magazines.
Photo: Jam Jar Lounge. Image from the Japanese network
Photo: Jam Jar Lounge. Image from the Japanese network
Photo: Jam Jar Lounge's baked sandwich. Image from the Japanese network
The last shop I want to introduce today is a famous restaurant that afternoon tea lovers must check out when they come to Kyoto. Named Knot Cafe, it is known as a coffee shop that combines Kyoto and New York, and is a 4-minute walk from Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. The restaurant is best known for its mini sandwiches, which come in two flavors, egg rolls with juicy and red bean butter, both of which bring out the essence of "Japanese and Western combinations" to the extreme. The egg rolls are amazingly thick, stretchy, tender and juicy, and the sauce is available in two kinds of mustard salad dressing and radish puree soy sauce, red bean puree is sweet but not greasy, and the slightly salty butter pulls the taste of the plain material to a new level. The sandwich is small and novel, and is closer to a burger than a sandwich. The sandwich bread is specially made from Kyoto's famous bakery "ル・プチメック", and the color is just right, and the color is just right, and the golden color is slightly brown.
Picture ∣ Knot Cafe's mini sandwich. Image from the Japanese network
I hope that you will not be disappointed in the food and scenery, and you can enjoy a trip to Kyoto with peace of mind.
bibliography
https://jpnculture.net/tenmangu-ume/