The "skeleton" and "backbone" of the suit are interlined to construct.
Good match between fabric and interlining,
The beautiful exterior shape of the suit is created. A good suit has strict requirements for the process, and a set of suits is produced, which requires about four major processes and more than 300 small processes. The difference in craftsmanship directly determines the quality of the suit.
Among them, the three processes of general hemp lining, semi-hemp lining and adhesive lining can almost be used as a hard distinction between suit grades.
No.1 Adhesive lining adhesive lining: the most common modern suit process, the front piece of the suit adopts the special adhesive interlining invented by modern technology, and the interlining cloth and the suit face cloth are combined by means of machine hot pressing and other means. It is a low-end suit process. Advantages: The adhesive lining process is relatively simple, suitable for large-scale assembly line production, high unit production efficiency, low cost. Disadvantages: The front of the suit is flat, but slightly stiff. The gradual loss of the viscosity of the interlining cloth leads to a phenomenon such as the impossibility of the jacket that is not as good as the wool lining, and it is easy to blister. No.2 Semi-hemp lining Semi-hemp lining: Semi-wool lining is a classic suit process formed by appropriate simplification on the basis of the full wool lining process, and the front of the suit is first covered with a layer of adhesive lining, and then the traditional lining is used in the upper part. Pros: Improved stiffness, fuller and more naturally structured bladder. Disadvantages: The presence of adhesive linings will still destroy the softness and drape of the fabric; increase the process, resulting in an increase in cost and selling price. No.3 General hemp lining: Whole hemp lining is a suit made of traditional craftsmanship, which is the preferred production process for high-end custom suits and high-end suits at home and abroad. The front piece of the suit uses a non-sticky old-fashioned interlining cloth that is stitched with a needle and thread to stitch the interlining cloth and the top cloth of the suit. Completely relying on the wool lining to set off the shape of the suit, it is a high-grade suit process. Advantages: the shape of the suit is smooth and three-dimensional, especially the chest of the suit is very full and structured; the folds on the front of the suit are reduced, and the overall feeling is more flat and structured; the service life of the clothes is long. Disadvantages: high process requirements, some links must be manually operated, such as stereotyping, etc., more processes, greatly increasing the cost of suits. Below is a commonly used schematic diagram indicating where the interlining covers for the three processes.
How to distinguish the full-hair lining, half-hair lining and adhesive lining ★ of the suit Gently pinch the front piece hem, if it is the same thickness as on the sleeves, it means that there is no adhesive interlining on this piece of fabric. Then the whole piece grabs the front placket, the thickness is heavier, which can basically be determined as a wool lining process. The half-hemp lining adopts the half-hair lining process of the suit still has a bonding lining, so it slides down from the chest to touch, and if you feel that there is a difference in thickness in the process, it is generally a half-hair lining. The adhesive lining is characterized by the thickness of the front piece "fabric and its inseparable parts" thicker than the sleeves and back, and there is no hair lining with half the length of the upper body. When judging, just lift the suit corner upside down to see if there is another layer, if not, you can PASS off. The focus of the suit is still those important processes, and only those important processes can ensure that the suit has a vertical feeling and is structured. Of course, because people's figures are very different, only tailor-made can ensure that the clothes fit their own body perfectly, showing their most confident, calm and elegant side.