Legend has it that thousands of years ago, there was a double-clawed, eight-legged, viciously shaped beetle in rivers and lakes, which not only stole rice, but also used chelates to injure people, so it was called "clipping human worm". Later, Dayu went to Jiangnan to control the water and sent a strong man to relieve the work, and the intrusion of "people and insects" seriously hindered the project. The PLO came up with a method of digging a ditch on the edge of the city, filling the ditch with boiling water, and the "trapped people and insects" fell into the ditch one after another. The scalded "sandwich worms" are red, the fragrance is stronger, and the taste is fresh, so the pests suddenly become delicacies. In order to be grateful for the Pak-baptist who dared to be the first in the world, people added a worm word below the word, calling the clamping insect "crab", which means that the PAK conquered the "clipping insect" and was the world's first crab eater.
The earliest clear record of "the first crab in the world" is only the "Meditation record of Han WuDong" written by Guo Xian of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the third volume of which reads: "The Country of Shanyuan tasted a crab, nine feet long, with a hundred feet and four claws, because of the name of the hundred-foot crab." Boiling its shell is better than yellow gum, also known as chelating gum, and winning the gum of the phoenix's beak. According to the Lingnan Foreign Object Chronicle, "The Kingdom of Shanyuan is one of the countries in the Western Regions, and according to the Lingnan Foreign Objects Chronicle, there are many trees in the forest, the Newei boat climbs the cliff, tied to the water, the half-cooked and the forest is not in the water, its cable is suddenly broken, but it has to go, look at it carefully, and the big crab is also." It can be seen that the crab that the Chinese people ate for the first time in ancient times may be a sea crab. The hundred-legged crab may be the literary image of the sea crab, as to whether Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty was the first person to eat crabs, it is better to listen to it.
Crab eating has been around for thousands of years. Crab sauce, also known as crab sauce, is the earliest way to eat crabs recorded by the ancients in historical sources. Later, with the continuous development of cooking technology, eating crab has also undergone great changes, and the methods of eating crab have also increased, which are divided into "Wen Eat" and "Wu Eat". The crab-eating culture of "holding a wine glass in the right hand and crab claw in the left hand" became popular from the Wei and Jin dynasties, and was regarded as an elegant and leisurely taste by the literati and scholars. Later, it developed into the four-in-one of eating crabs, drinking, appreciating chrysanthemums, and giving poems, and became the affair of the golden autumn. The most noteworthy of "Wen Eating" is the famous "Eight Pieces of Crab", which is the most elegant and reserved of many ways to eat crabs in ancient times.
The Ming Dynasty thinker Li Yan said of crabs, "Crabs are fresh and fat, sweet and greasy, white like jade and yellow like gold, and the color and fragrance have been made to the extreme, and nothing can be on it." He once expressed such an emotion to the crab, "Give this love of life, every year when the crab is not out, that is, save money to wait, because the family laughs at the crab for life, that is, call his money as money to buy life." It can be seen that he is fond of crab eating habits.
During the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Zhidong, the governor of Liangjiang, visited Weifu, and on the way met an old friend of the same window who was teaching in the home of a certain gentleman. Because of the family affairs, the old classmate asked Zhang Zhidong to pad the museum for a few days, and Zhang gladly agreed. One day, it was the birthday of the governor of Matsue, and the gentleman went with Zhang. During the banquet, the guests and hosts gave up their seats, and Zhang did not give in to them, and he lived alone as the chief. When the prefect saw this, his heart was unhappy, and he pointed to the famous Songjiang dish sea bass on the table and produced a couplet: "The perch has four gills and occupies the Songjiang Mansion exclusively." Zhang Zhidong listened, and also borrowed the crabs on the table to continue the joint: "Crabs have eight legs, and they travel the world and Kyushu." The prefect was stunned. Upon inquiring, he realized that he was actually Zhang Zhidong, the governor of Liangjiang, and hurriedly prostrated his head to apologize.
Li Yu, a scholar of the Qing Dynasty, was known as a "crab fairy". Li Yu loves crabs and is also good at crab tasting, and Li Yu has his own unique views on how to taste crabs. First, "The good things of the world, the profit is in the lonely way... And those who taste others, just like the fire to help the sun, the water to benefit the river", is to say that the crab must be eaten alone, should not be with other dishes into the pot, otherwise it is like lighting a bonfire to add light to the sun, with the hand holding water to help the river rise, second, "all crab eaters, only fit their original body, steamed and cooked", that is, the crab should be steamed in its entirety, not cut and dismembered. Third, cut one, eat one, cut off a claw, eat a claw, come out of the crab shell and enter the stomach. He believes that eating crab in this way is original, "qi and taste fiber are not leaking".
It is said that Li Yu is a crab eating essence, so how fine is it? For the first time, he summed up a complete set of "crab eating sutras": crabs should be steamed to retain their beauty, such as fried, then the color and aroma of crabs are lost; Just as good incense must self-immolate, good tea must be poured by oneself, eating crab must be left to its own devices, spinning and peeling spin food has taste, and people peeling my food taste the same as chewing wax; Crab should be cut into a basket, and a claw should be cut off, and the gas and taste should not leak at all... In particular, in the famous "Crab Endowment", a crab eating procedure of what to eat first and what to eat later is proposed.
The so-called first eat the basket, the basket is the back shell of the crab, it is easy to open, as soon as it is uncovered, it is found that it seems to be hiding beads, storing gold, "see the gold is too cheap, look at the white bi as usual", the gold white bi is valuable, can not be taken over to relieve hunger, beautiful appetite, compared to it, the crab basket in the things are delicious and delicious, how affordable to eat again. This treasure is like a treasure chest that has been uncovered, yellow, red, white, like gold, like treasure, like jade, and it is full of eyes before it has been eaten. "It is no different from the beginning of the yellow scroll, if there is a red text to read", as the saying goes, "there is a house of gold in the book, and there is a face like jade in the book", the reader's fascination with the book is like people's gold and lovers, and in the face of the crab's urn, just like the reader saw the book (yellow scroll), saw the literature (red text), this joy, this excitement is indescribable. So, what does it taste like?" Greasy and sweet, sweet and full-bodied", oily, greasy, sweet, fragrant, like tasting Qiong paste, like eating golden millet. This includes the chest, "the chest is stacked, and the stacks are fat; Next to the crowd, the warehouse is meat."
Finally eat the crab feet. Eating crab feet can break it like breaking bamboo, four pairs of crab feet, which can be divided into sixteen sections. "The two claws are more beautiful, leave it for the end", the two large tongs are fat and tender, the most delicious, so it is necessary to save it for the end to eat it, drawing a satisfactory end to the crab eating.
This passage in "Crab Endowment" not only appreciates that crab is a delicacy and a delicacy, and is a rare beautiful text that is mixed with Li Yu's observation, evaluation and praise, but more importantly, it describes the order in which crab eaters must first basket, then the crab, the second foot, and the rear claw, and the experience and experience of Li Yu's crab eating are classic summaries. Li Yu is a talented and wise man, able to speak and write flowers, he said in the poem that "greatly benefited from the intestineless prince" and "the more he ate, the more exquisite the chest", and it was smarter and more splendid to eat the crab.
The old saying goes, "September is the tip of the navel of October", as the saying goes, "nine females and ten males", which means the same: it is better to eat female crabs in September, and it is better to eat male crabs in October. This is because the female crab does not grow yellow and fleshy until after the cold dew in September; The male crab does not grow strong until after the beginning of winter.
September is fattened with a ball of umbilicus, and the earliest mention is the Northern Wei Jia Sixun's "Qi Min Zhi Shu", whose "Tibetan crab method" says "take the mother crab within September". October is fattened with a pointed navel, and the earliest mention was of the Tang Dynasty poet Tang Yanqian, whose "Crab" poem said, "Hutian October frost falls ... The tip of the navel is better than the navel of the group". It should be said that this is what diners constantly compare and observe in the practice of eating crabs. After accumulation and summation, the "Yuyao County Chronicle" made a complete expression of "September Tuan navel October male", and in the Qing Dynasty, Gu Lu added in the "Qing Jia Lu" that "there are nine females and ten males, which is called the September tuan navel jia, and the October tip navel jia ye." Why? It turns out that the maturity period of female crabs and male crabs has preceded and then, and the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas are generally in the ninth month of the lunar calendar, and the female crabs enter the mature period first, from light and thin to full, from emptiness and fullness, while the male crabs are slightly later, and only mature and full in October.
"Nine females and ten males" or "September umbilicus and October tip", a seemingly simple sentence, is a crystallization of wisdom that condenses the experience of many generations and transforms.
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