[Watch House Clock Culture] Many friends should have seen a scanned picture of the classification of watch brands many years ago, although its exact provenance is difficult to verify, but according to the general content, it can be inferred that it was the division standard for imported watches at that time. After looking at the Chinese translations and classification criteria of each brand one by one, I can't help but sigh that the watch market has changed dramatically in the past few decades. Many brands that were once on the top have now fallen to the altar and even withdrawn from the stage of history; And there are many brands that have been divided into "three types of tables" and "four types of tables", and with the strength accumulated over the years, they have become top brands.
It is worth noting that the translation names of many brands in the picture are quite different from today, and there are certain limitations in the classification criteria, such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and other high-end brands. Let's take a look at a few familiar brands and see how the brands of that year differ from today.
MARK 11, 1962
Let's start with the "first class and one class" classification at the top, and at the top of the list is the INTERNATIONAL brand translated as "international", which is today's IWC. At that time, the Chinese name of "IWC" was owned by another brand called UNIVERSAL, so the "IWC" 60 years ago was not today's IWC.
Week calendar type Ref.6511, 1957
This was followed by the rolex we were familiar with. In the development of Rolex in these decades, the brand positioning and product value have been very stable. It is also this "stability" that makes today's Rolex very popular.
Longines Lindbergh, 1930s
Next up are Longines and Omega in the "first class and two categories", after the quartz storm that swept the Swiss watchmaking industry, their positioning has undergone some changes. Omega, which joined the Swatch Group, was promoted, while Longines adjusted its positioning moderately, forming a differentiated competition.
UNIVERAL watch, 1950s
There are many brands in the first three categories, but the CYMA Xima brand, which ranks first, has sunk. Although the brand still retains the production line, neither the popularity nor the market share is the same. The same is true of the former UNIVERSAL "Universal", the official website includes only a few models, and ordinary consumers are difficult to find purchase channels.
Chi Nian Hua Watch, 1960s
Compared with the above two, ETERNA Qi Nianhua, which was translated as "Itna" at that time, still maintains its vitality. In 2011, IPHIFSI Co., Ltd., a subsidiary of China Haidian Group Co., Ltd., included Chi Nian Hua for 22.911 million Swiss francs, and now Qi Nian Hua has also opened a flagship store on the domestic e-commerce platform, and new products are released from time to time.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Flipped, 1940s
Historically, Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for designing and producing complex movements and has supplied movements to many top brands. Before joining Richemont, LeCoultre was mainly in the movement business, and the finished watch was not valued as it is today, which is why the brand only stayed in the "first class and three categories" at that time.
True Time A384, 1969
Unfortunately, many brands in the second-class and second-class tables cannot escape the market reshuffle and disappear in the long river of history for various reasons. Only Zhenlishi ("Augment your intelligence") established itself in the field of Haute Horlogerie with its high-frequency automatic chronograph movement and joined the LVMH Group in 1999.
TITONI Plum Watches, 1950s
Let's look at the situation of the "three types of tables" at that time. Similar to the situation of "second-class watches", many of the brands that were very popular in the past have also withdrawn from the historical stage, and now only the time degree ("Daoshao"), TAG Heuer ("luxury"), titoni plum watches are well known to us.
Ref.1646 Diving Watch, 1965
The most conspicuous of the four categories is the "100- Breguet". In fact, in the middle of the last century, the brand not only produced haute horlogerie, but also launched mid-range watches for the mass consumer market (such as Ref.1646 diving watches), which is why the "Thé00 Pigeon" is divided into four categories of watches. The Breguet brand, which joined the Swatch Group in 1999, was reinvigorated to revive the top complications of the tourbillon, the three-question and perpetual calendar, and today Breguet has taken the position of the group's "brother" with a number of exquisite skills.
Summary: Just as the so-called "thirty years of Hedong, thirty years of Hexi", through the division of watch brands many years ago, it is not difficult to find that many once brilliant brands have been acquired and reorganized, or completely withdrawn from the market, disappearing in the long river of history; Some brands have finally achieved a leap through continuous innovation and upgrading of craftsmanship. (Photo/Text Watch House Xiao Feng)