Facsimile of Wang Wei's "Chuan Chuan Tu" (biography)
I haven't been to Rincheon for a long time. Although not far, it is only more than fifty kilometers from the city and less than an hour by car. But in the early years it was a frequent visit. Young, no children, not busy at work, life is still light and fluttering, more is the leisure of sightseeing.
The Seventy-Two Yu of Qinling Mountains are different everywhere, but they really want to enter the mountain, and every time they point at it, the destination falls in the direction of Lantian. After crossing the south of the city and then going south, along the Zhongnan Mountain, passing through Bailuyuan, to Lantian County and then facing south for thirty miles, through several mountains planted with pine trees, you will come to the Lingchuan River Valley, which has been famous since the beginning of Wang Wei's "The Collection of Yuanchuan".
Drive on the mountain road from Xi'an to Yuanchuan
The scenery is now ordinary, the distant mountains and still water, the clear stream and miscellaneous trees, dozens of miles of the foothills of the Zhongnan Mountains, everywhere is such a place. It was only after I had settled in Xi'an for a long time that I realized one day that The River, which I had been reading in the hermit's poems for so long, was so close that I could think of it. The first time I went was seven years ago, in the spring, along the spiral mountain road all the way into the tunnel, the two sides of the mountain wall towering confrontation, between the rugged mountains and stones, it is indeed a bush of pine forest, but it is thin and tender, can not reflect the weather of the bright moon and pine, but like Dong Yuan's gorgeous ink spots. There are also clear springs in the ancient river, but the water flow has been thin, and it is no longer as abundant as seen in the notes of predecessors, especially in winter, when the snow is snowy and the river is frozen, it is impossible to see the living source.
Every time I went, I would navigate to a place called "Wang Wei Restaurant", next to the ginkgo planted by the legendary Wang Wei hand. You have to go through several heavy tunnels, until you have to go inside after passing through the cave, and then you begin to see all kinds of dilapidated factories and residential areas on the side of the road, all built in the last century, and abandoned as the function of the times fades. There are also sparsely populated villages and forest gardens, as if they have been controlled by the scenery, neatly arranged among the mountains. Every time I stop at a stone bridge near Baijiaping Village, I stop the first time I go, and I only feel that standing on that bridge and looking back at the valley, there is the most inexplicable sparseness and kindness.
The four seasons of the Ryūkawa river were filmed in the same location
This valley did seem to be somewhat unremarkable now, even among the Seventy-Two Yu of Qinling Mountains, it was not outstanding. Although it was once extremely famous. The most well-known passage is Wang Wei's "Preface to the Collection of Yuanchuan": "Yu Beiye is in the Liaochuan Valley, and its tour stops include Mengcheng Pass, Huazigang, Wenxingguan, Jinzhuling, Luchai, Mulan Chai, Zhu Yanyu, Gong Huai Mo, Linhu Pavilion, Nanyuan, Qinhu, Liulang, Luan Jiase, Jinduquan Spring, Baishitan, Beiyuan, Zhuliguan, Xinyiwu, Lacquer Garden, Pepper Garden, etc., and Pei Di leisure, each endowed with Yun'er. In Wang Wei's "Preface to the Collection of The ChuanChuan", an adjective is useless, and only the noun is described, which is enough to transmit the landscape he saw with his own eyes to a thousand years later.
Part of the "Whole Map of the ChuanChuan" in the Qing Dynasty "Reconstruction of the Chronicle of the Chuanchuan"
Wang Wei, who can be selected as a residence by Wang Wei, who is both beautiful in poetry and painting and first-class in aesthetics, is of course more than that. However, since the Tang Dynasty, the old zhi of Yuanchuan has been lost for a long time, and the Poetry of Song and Yuan is rare, until the Qing Dynasty, When Hu Yuanxuan of LantianZhi County compiled the "Reconstruction of the Chronicle of The Chuanchuan", only in addition to the legend, left a truly verifiable summary of the scenery of the mountains and rivers. The zhi contains the whole map of the old Yuanchuan River, on which there are some place names that are not written in the "Yuanchuan Collection", such as the "fifteen nights of the month, there is a fire on the cliff mountain, from south to north, it is called sending lights", the tin water cave that is said to be passed by the "high monk's tin staff", the jumping fish stream "under the lake, there are stone ridges, and the water on the stone", the Wangqing (pro) slope where "Wang Wei often climbs and looks at his mother", and the cliff west of the Golden Bull Cave, where I don't know who has sacrificed himself here (including Mount Emei, many famous mountains have landscapes of the same name). Ying Du was once a square victory, but it gradually became unknown because it had not been included in the famous poem.
After a thousand years of vicissitudes, the old traces of the past have long been obliterated. In the Ming Dynasty, luyuan temple still existed, and now even the ancient temple is no longer there. But those years of love to go is not intoxicated with its landscape scenery. An indescribable sense of intimacy and atmosphere, familiar with the words written and written, it becomes the old state in the book, and whenever it is close, it is like the old man. It is also another reclusive state of the scholar's soul in addition to the peach blossom source in a thousand years, that is, turning around, it can also eliminate the irritability in people's hearts. Or maybe it's because the poet who has liked it for many years is buried here, even if the original tomb has long been destroyed and found, in my heart, Wang Wei is the poet in this corner, and the best work is the poetry in this corner. This is not Wang Wei's hometown, but it is the hometown of the "Yuanchuan Collection".
He once wrote a text comparing Erasmus between Wang Wei and Rotterdam. Although the two are separated by 18,000 miles from each other, the year difference is also hundreds of years. However, the anecdotes of the two articles give people similar feelings, and they can comfortably read which paragraph they pick up at random, which is the most suitable image for idealists and humanistic aesthetics in their hearts.
Treat all that you see equally, without prejudice, without a fierce attitude, and away from all the fanaticism in the world that violates reason. He is a well-meaning nerd, peaceful, kind, knowledgeable, decent, pedantic, alienated from the world with a little scrutiny, and a minimum of optimism, but also unable to completely escape the weakness of human nature that loves fame and desires approval. None of them, of course, are the people that history likes—not the passionate adventurers, the unrestrained doers, the unscrupulous innovators. Although they were all greatly favored by their own times, they eventually obeyed their hearts, retreated to the edge of the times, returned to loneliness, found independence and freedom, and eventually disappeared.
The River was chosen by Wang Wei as a place of rest after he was forty years old. "The middle age is quite good, and the late family is nanshan. Every time you come and go, you will know yourself. "For more than a decade before his death, he was in the dark, but he was always here when he was idle. Since his childhood Buddhist attainments have been infiltrated to this point, the ups and downs of half a lifetime have been potentially in his heart, the first appearance of his youth, the scenery of noble teachers and friends, the hardships of his career, and the ruin of his reputation, all of which have gone away, and he has come and gone alone, cold and warm self-knowledge, which is his last choice and the most suitable way of life for him.
Although it is inevitable that there will still be things in the heart that cannot be put down, "Although there is no way to get out, why can't you cut yourself?" In his letters to friends, he mentioned his experience of holding a false post after being a thief in the Anshi Rebellion, and asked himself with a fierce emotion rarely seen in his poetry. But he is not such a temperamental person in the end, he is a perfect and gentle sculpture, a lifelong fixed distance from the earthly world, emitting the aura of Zen in the world. The fierceness of Ning Wei Jade In "Ning Bi Chi" is far away from him, and in the end, in the end, except for the hidden mountains and forests, the house for the temple, and the handwritten book to say goodbye to relatives and friends, he seems to have nothing to do. Fortunately, there are also Yuanchuan, with Mengcheng Pass, Huazigang, Wenxingguan, Jinzhuling, Luchai, Mulan chai, Zhuyi, Gonghuaimo, Linhu pavilion, Nanyao, Yinhu, Liulang... In the fierce color of the Tang Dynasty, in the turbulent decline of the mountains and rivers, a piece of warmth was created, which contained this self-confessed sinful soul.
In fact, now that we mention the incident of Anshi's rebellion Wang Wei trapping the thief, we can still understand and sympathize. But Yu Wang Wei himself was a hurdle that was difficult to cross. The Vimal Sutra that he had read since he was a child, and as soon as he came up, the story of Vimal's interrogation of his people was recorded in the "Convenient Goods", which may be used as a reference for Wang Wei's psychology.
That was probably such a person: "For a long time, devoutly cultivating the Buddha, cultivating the Dharma, and raising monks, seeing that the Dharma has no life, the ultimate wish is to live in the world with compassion, to understand the wishes and destinies of all sentient beings." He wanted to go into hiding, but he lived in the city of Vijayah for the convenience of saving the world. His wealth was endless, but he often financed the poor in the city. His precepts are pure, he endures humiliation and burdens, constantly improves his reputation, and pursues perfection in order to become an example for the world and lead people to goodness. He practiced meditation, devoted himself to silence, and never allowed himself to be restless and impetuous. Although he was still a white-clothed layman outside the Buddhist gate, he vigorously adhered to the pure precepts of monastic shamen. Although he lived at home, married and had children, he did not have attachment to the sound and color of dogs and horses, and he was far away from the joy of the family, and he practiced at home; Although he was born rich and wealthy, he still kept the peace of mind brought about by good charity; Occasional game fun, but also to find opportunities to cross others..." There have been such psychological hints for a long time, how can you not live your life as a person? Power and wealth can be seen as floating clouds, but the moral flaws hit them at the root.
Therefore, whether it is famous or not, it is good to see the poet who read for a long time when he was young, and to infiltrate such a deep homeland. It was only a long time before I discovered that the drunken landscape of my youth was a kind of laziness and weakness, and I did not want to face the trivial troubles of life. After all, the real texture of life always goes with the weight, but Because it is measured one by one with the body and mind, even if it is not seen for a long time, the details are still clear.
I watched how this famous and almost unattended valley changed. At first, it was really desolate and inaccessible, and even some of the tourist resorts built under the banner of Wang Wei in the early years have become the traces of the courtyard piled with ashes and the locked gate. Passing through the villages and towns to find a place to eat, the villagers wondered about the foreign license plates: "What is laoyuan doing?" Is it also looking at trees? ”
The tree he said was at the foot of Feiyun Mountain, in the valley where Wang Wei lived in seclusion, a thousand-year-old tree, and it seemed that it should be the one recorded in the "Yuanchuan Ji Wenxingguan". "Wen Xing is cut into a beam, and the lemongrass knot is a Yu." I don't know the clouds in the building, but I go to be the rain on earth. "Because I've been there so much, I've seen it look like in all seasons. Because decades ago, a factory was built here to build a road, and the tree was cut down as one of the main trunks, and the weather was reduced, but after all, it has a thousand years of age, and the small ginkgo biloba of that year is now towering. Under the tree stands a stone stele with the words "Wang Wei Hand Planted Ginkgo Biloba" and "Luyuan Temple", and the history of the place is engraved behind the stele, and the cultural relics scattered in that year are detailed. Not far away, in a field of wild grass, there is also a "Wang Wei Tomb", of course, fake, Wang Wei and his mother Cui Shi's tombstones have long been destroyed, and even the tombstones have been used as stones to press under the factory's now abandoned factory building.
The stone stele of luyuan temple and the three seasons of wang wei hand planted ginkgo biloba
If there's anything special to see in the Valley, that's all I saw when I first went. It is said that around 2005, the county made great efforts to do some construction, but it was not done. The change happened little by little in the following years, first a small landscape depicting Wang Wei's life began to appear next to the road on the side of the village, and then the road signs clearly marked "Wang Wei's Poetry Painting Town" were erected, and a pavilion was built on the hill bag. Later, the walls of the streets in the adjacent village were also painted with Wang Wei's poetry, which initially had the appearance of a tourist town, not very exquisite, slightly deliberate, and the artificial traces were too heavy, making the lines of the landscape somewhat stiff. I don't know how this time, but for the locals, it is a good thing after all.
Because it is located in the depths of zhongnan Mountain, the population of Yuanchuan Town is not large, and looking at the data compiled, it is only in its early 10,000s now. One spring when a family went into the mountains, the spring breeze always blessed the wind and things, and the scenery that I saw that time was really Wang Weiwen's "grass and trees, spring mountains can be expected". A family of cats digs for cabbage in a white-skinned pine forest on the banks of the River. As we were digging, a curious old man by the stone bridge came to see us. At first, I thought that I was stepping on the forest to punish us, but I just wanted to talk to someone. Looking at her appearance, I know that she is lonely for many years. Her yard was right next to the pine forest, and we picked up the cabbage and went to sit down and drink a glass of water to chat. It is a common situation in Guanzhong Zhongshan Village, where the children are outside, and the remaining two old families stay in the mountains to guard this pine forest. If I were to look at this forest at first glance, my first thought would naturally be "Bright Moon Matsuma Illumination". But in the actual livelihood of the locals, it has become a solid economic account. The old people talked about their livelihood in the mountains now, the common grain and crop cultivation, and the breeding of livestock, which was nothing special. Their family mainly grows pine trees, and there are some specific valley soils in the Area of The River that are very suitable for raising pines, both artificial and wild natural forests. Pine trees alone, there are many varieties of oil pine, Huashan pine, cedar pine, whitebark pine and so on. In recent years, the demand for urban greening has been large, and the unit price of his family's whitebark pine seedlings has slowly risen from a few yuan to thirty yuan in that year. There is also a lot of gossip about children in distant places, about two flash floods ten years ago, about the common "cold child" disaster (that is, hail) in the mountains. When they said it, I recalled the almost dry river that I had to sigh every time I came, and I didn't know what it looked like when flash floods flowed through such a river; I also remembered the forest where I had just picked cabbage, and I didn't know how much money the old man's forest could be exchanged for a year.
Present-day Course of the River
Last year, near the Spring Festival, I went into the mountain again, stopped at the mouth of Baijiaping Village and walked inside, and on the walls on both sides of the village road, Wang Wei's poems and paintings had been painted. Seeing an old courtyard wall with no one in front of me (below), the wall painting and the color of the Zhongnan Mountain in front of me are very beautiful. I didn't see the family by the stone bridge open the door, but went to the village, the road met the village people in front of the door to paste the Spring Festival, I heard the old people complaining to the neighbors, because of the epidemic, this year's children can not come back, there is no year to pass.
It's been a long time since I've been there, but I've always thought about it. And because I have read more books and experienced some worldly events, in addition to all kinds of one-dimensional noises and disturbances, it is another possibility of life not far away. I don't know how the tourist facilities over there have been built, whether there is any impact, maybe one day, Luyuan Temple will also be rebuilt on the original site, and the mountain gate will still fall behind the tall and thin ginkgo biloba plant today.
Perhaps there are better places to go in the Zhongnan Mountains, just as there are certainly better poets in the history of literature. But reading and traveling require fate, and no one can read all the books, and no one can set foot in all places. For me, the existence of the River does not have to be more silent, nor does it have to be more amazing. Just between the cracks of life, so close to the city where I live, there is such a literary homeland, mountains and rivers, for me, it is lucky enough.
The scenery of the deep mountains in the south is reminiscent of Wang Wei's "Separating the wind and frightening bamboo, opening the door and filling the mountains with snow"
Author: Yan Quinoa
Editor: Qian Yutong