Part of the "Trick Drawing"
True color Kudzu yarn (Ming)
Ge Sha Dao Robe (Ming)
Bamboo clothes
In modern costume dramas, there seems to be no concept of seasons, even if it is a hot summer day, the male and female protagonists in the play are still dressed tightly. More actors tweeted that after filming in Hengdian, the sweat in the costume can be screwed... If the ancients saw this scene, it is estimated that they would laugh to death, after all, people's summer clothes have many patterns and richer fabrics.
Geb
Good quality and low price, best-selling for thousands of years
Speaking of the summer clothing fabrics of the ancients, the first person to appear must be Gebu. The raw material of Gebu is of course "Ge"! It is a perennial vine whose stems are fibers that can be used as raw material for clothing. In the "Book of Poetry", there are also many verses that mention "Ge", such as "Ge Zhi Qin Xi, Shi Yu Zhonggu, Wei Ye Ying", "Ge Sheng MengChu, Yu Man Yu Ye", "Pi Cai Ge Xi, one day not seen, such as March Xi", "Qiu Xi Xi, miserable with the wind" and so on, it can be seen that in the pre-Qin period, collecting Ge clothes was the daily labor of the ancients.
However, it is not easy to get a piece of kudzu cloth, it must go through the six steps of picking kudzu, dipping kudzu, boiling kudzu, sunning kudzu, jigu, and weaving kudzu to complete. In the process of making gebu, the ancients also had to grade gebu according to the thickness of the yarn, just like the class A B fabric on the modern clothes washing standard: the highest-end gebu is called "crepe", the thin kudzu is "chī", and the thick kudzu is "绤" (xì). Therefore, "silk" also refers to Gebu.
The biggest advantage of Gebu is that it is hard, refreshing and breathable, and the function of moisture absorption is particularly good. Summer wear on the body, not boring at all, so it also has an alias, called "XiaBu". Such a comfortable gebu is naturally a best-seller in summer fabrics, and the ancients also did their best to make a variety of styles. Ordinary people usually choose low-cost coarse kudzu to make summer clothes, so in addition to being made into a robe, it is also made into short sleeves, or even sleeveless. When encountering people who do not have any "idol baggage", they simply go to the end, only wear a vest made of gebu, and wear it directly at home or in the mountains.
Probably inspired by this kind of free-spirited person, kudzu is also often used to cut into underwear to wear closely, but most of them are made of fine kudzu. Compared with coarse kudzu, this fine kudzu color is particularly bright and white, and the woven kudzu is light and breathable, moisture absorption and perspiration, which is simply the black technology in the fabric, so the fine kudzu cloth has also become a royal tribute and aristocratic supplies, and even used it as a high-temperature subsidy.
Du Fu received such a peculiar "high temperature subsidy" during the Dragon Boat Festival when he was 39 years old, for which he also wrote a "Dragon Boat Day Gift": "Palace clothes are also famous, and the Dragon Boat Festival is honored." Fine kudzu contains wind and soft, and the snow is light. Wet from the heavens, when the heat comes to clear. The meaning is called long and short, and the lifelong lotus is sacred. "The life of the ancients has always been very ritualistic, changing summer clothes must pick a day, and the Dragon Boat Festival is a good day to change into summer clothes." It can be seen from the verses that du fu got this kudzu robe, which is very light and thin, and soft and breathable. You must know that at that time, Du Fu was staying in the Jixian Temple, waiting for the allocation of official positions, but this wait was four years long, and usually there was no imperial court, but on the day of the Dragon Boat Festival, du Fu was definitely moved to tears.
Perhaps Du Fu's praise for Ge Yi was touched, but Yang Juyuan, who was slightly later than his time, also wrote a poem "Dragon Boat Day Fu Mengnei Waiter Morning Dress" to praise Ge Yi: "The colored wisps are still beautiful, and the wind is rolling back." The party shall come from five days to nine days. In the Light Hair of The Pure Light, when Xuan Summer Qi returned. Remote knowledge and timely festivals, knife ruler fire cloud urge. Yang Juyuan described it more pompously, saying that as long as he put Ge Yi in the cupboard, it was already very cool, and the summer heat would dissipate. How thin is the katsumi? In the wind, it can be naturally relaxed, and the sense of ethereality is immediately increased by eight degrees.
It can be seen that gebu as a summer clothing fabric, that is good quality and low price, no wonder it will sell well for thousands of years.
Sackwood bamboo fiber wood hibiscus
Special fabrics, special feelings
In the ancient summer fabrics, Gebu has achieved good quality and low price, but there are relatively more cost-effective, that is, linen. The raw material of sackcloth is the herbaceous plant "hemp". Since the Han Dynasty, hemp has been cultivated on a large scale, and because it grows throughout the year, raw materials are easy to obtain, so the cost of linen cloth is extremely low and is welcomed by the common people.
However, compared to Gebu, the comfort of linen is slightly inferior, and it looks a little rough, but this does not prevent it from becoming a big coffee for summer fabrics. The density of linen fiber is relatively small, and after making the fabric of summer clothes, there are many breathable holes, so wear it on the body to absorb moisture and sweat, cool and dry. When the working people of ancient times worked, they especially liked to wear linen clothes, so making linen cloth also became the daily life of the ancients. The "Poetry Classic, Chen Feng, and the Pool of the East Gate" describes the scene of the ancient people's hemp: "The pool of the East Gate can be made of hemp... Can 沤纻 (zhù)... Can be Suga. ”
Gebu has the top with "crepe" and "crepe", and of course there are sackcloths. According to the "Commentaries on the Interpretation of Texts", there are generally four types of hemp fibers in the Han Dynasty of China: hemp fiber, ramie fiber, amaranth (qǐng) hemp fiber, and abaca fiber. Among them, hemp and ramie are the mainstays, and the utilization of amaranth is relatively small, and abaca is more as a national characteristic. In ancient times, ordinary people often wore marijuana, and the raw materials and production costs of ramie were high, so the price was also extremely high.
Speaking of ramie, modern people are not strangers, in the past two years, many clothing brands have launched ramie fabric summer clothes. An inconspicuous ramie shirt costs at least three or four hundred pieces, to which the ancients said: You have spent this money unjustly. As the top of the linen cloth, the fibers of ramie are very long and strong, known as "light as cicada wings, as thin as rice paper, as flat as water mirrors, as thin as silk" reputation. The "Jin Bai Silk Dance Song Poem" also praised: "The quality is like light clouds and the color of silver, and the bequest of love is given to a beautiful person." The robe is made of a scarf (another saying is "yu"), and the robe is dusted with a light body towel. "The light and bright white ramie has also been listed as Kampot by successive generations, and has become the favorite of the summer clothing fabrics of the royal family and dignitaries.
They can't afford to wear ramie, and they don't want to "commit" to ordinary linen. According to the "Guangdong Xinyu", the ancients invented a summer dress made of a special fabric in the midst of entanglement: bamboo clothes. Bamboo clothes sound a bit like wearing a cool mat on the body, yes, its raw material is bamboo, but the use of thin bamboo pipes or bamboo grates. The weaving ability of the ancients was extremely strong, they woven thin bamboo pipes and bamboo grates into cloth, and then slightly modified according to the human body shape, made a small vest style. This kind of bamboo clothing is worn close to the body, which is both breathable and sweatproof, so the bamboo clothing also has a name: sweat clothing.
Since you can wear a cool mat, oh no, a bamboo coat on your body, what else can't you wear on your body? When the ancients were too hot to bear it, they patted their heads and found the wood hibiscus. The ancients extracted the long fibers in the stem skin of the wood hibiscus, analyzed the skin and twisted the thread, and woven it into a fine cloth, so it was called "hibiscus cloth".
Probably inspired by bamboo and wood hibiscus, courage and self-confidence, the ancients living in suzhou invented a yellow grass heart cloth. Similar to the production process of gebu, linen, and hibiscus cloth, the ancients extracted the fibers in the core of a yellow grass stem and then analyzed the silk twisted thread to weave into cloth. According to the "Guangdong Xinyu", the finished product of this yellow grass heart cloth is as white and fine as silk, and it is so clear that in addition to being used as a fabric for summer clothing, it can also be used to sew mosquito nets, act as window screens, and even be used as a veil on lanterns.
It seems that the ancients had a huge brain hole and excellent courage in the development of plant fibers. Presumably, this special fabric will definitely bring special feelings in the summer.
Bone-awakening yarn Solid yarn
To cool off, both men and women have to wear "see-through suits"
The ancients took pains to make high-end fabrics for the sake of summer fabrics, but it is not easy to make high-end fabrics, after all, who will not spend money? It's hard to be tall and creative.
Of course, the wisdom of the ancients never let you down. In addition to kudzu, hemp, bamboo, wood hibiscus, and yellow grass heart, the ancients also aimed at plantains. According to the Qing Yilu, in the fifth dynasty, the craftsmen of Linchuan and Shangrao in Jiangxi discovered that plantains could be made into cloth, but this was not the point, the point was that they developed a synthetic cloth. That is, this cloth is no longer just a single plant fiber.
After the ancients extracted the stem silk of the plantain, it was twisted together with the expensive silk to form a filament, and then woven into a light yarn with this synthetic filament, which is simply "summer moon clothing, light and cool fit", which is banana cloth, also known as banana yarn. The ancients felt that it would be a great loss if such a good yarn only had these two names, so they gave it a cool and poetic name: the bone yarn.
After the awakening yarn was listed, it was once sought after, and fashion bloggers at that time used it to make outerwear, which was called "Taiqing Jie" at the long time, and "Xiao Taiqing" in the short shirt. In ancient times, the bone yarn was a very high-profile gift. According to historical records, when Yan Artemisia in the Ming Dynasty was raided, a large red makeup flower bull banana cloth was mentioned in the copy family list, which showed that the bone yarn was mass-produced at that time. The advantage of the bone-awakening yarn is that it is light and breathable, but it is also the earliest "sheer suit". When the ancients were idle at home in the summer, they usually wore clothes made of bone yarn directly. In "Jin Ping Mei", it was once described that Li Zhen'er wore this kind of bone-chilling dress at home, and as a result, under the shadow of the sun, her snow-white skin and the outline of her body shape could be clearly revealed.
In addition to the bone-awakening yarn, yarn woven with natural silk is also the first choice for high-end fabrics for summer wear. In the Tang Dynasty, such silk gauze was called raw clothing, because raw clothing eliminated the need to pound this link, the warp and weft of the fabric was relatively sparse, forming a breathable hole, so the function of heat dissipation and sweat removal was very good. There is also a very touching story of friendship about raw clothes. After Yuan Shu was demoted to Tongzhou, Bai Juyi was worried that Yuan Shu would be heated to death, so he sent a gauze to Yuan Shu, who he described in "Parasitic Clothes and Micro Clothes, Because of the Inscription": "The light colored shirt is light like fog, and the spinning gauze is thinner than the clouds", and the long shirt and pants are made of light yarn, like fog like clouds. After Yuan Shu received this set of clothes, he was quite touched, and then gave Bai Juyi a green silk cloth and light yarn.
In addition, there is a solid yarn, the pores of this yarn are very stable, it is used to form a pattern with pores on ordinary satin silk, so it is called "field yarn". In "Dream of the Red Chamber", when Grandma Liu entered the Grand View Garden, there was a piece of "field moon white yarn" among the clothes that Ping'er handed her. However, the field yarn is generally worn in early summer, and in the middle of summer, the ancients had to change into a "bright ground yarn" with no pattern. After all, the heat is all hot to death, and what kind of pattern!
However, there are also many people who are afraid of heat and want to stink and beautiful. Yarn such a see-through suit, the ancients for grooming naturally will not wear on formal occasions, even if they wear, will also wear a dense robe as an inner layer, but what is the meaning of wearing yarn in this way, it is still hot to death. So The Chongzhen Emperor's favorite concubine, Tian Guifei, invented a special summer yarn-wearing method, which is still outdated in modern times. It is said that this noble concubine tian guifei ordered people to cut flowers and leaves with various colors of silk, and then sewn onto the surface of the yarn, forming a delicate pattern of flowers and birds, and finally wearing a thin robe corresponding to the color of the yarn under the yarn. The whole set of costumes looks like a virtual reality, which is much cooler than the layered way of wearing.
In order to wear summer clothes with light fabrics in the summer, the ancients were exhausted. When we modern people see ramie, bamboo fiber, mulberry silk and other fabrics in the mall, we really have to thank the ancients for these inventions, and at the same time, we must pass on the concept of environmental protection of the ancients.
Text and courtesy photo / Jinling Xiaodai