Northeast Grill, 100 years ahead of the world

Original2022-07-01 13:17 Fu Tao nine points full

Although I am a northeasterner, I travel to the northeast once a year, yes, not home, but tourism.

Many of my friends around me, including my parents, do not understand this very well, the whole three eastern provinces are not bad, the accents are similar, what is there to swim?

I gave them a dismissive look every time and said, you know nothing about the Northeast. The northeast includes Heijiliao and the Eastern Five Leagues of Inner Mongolia, north of Russia, east of North Korea, west of Inner Mongolia, and south of the Guandong immigrant culture, which is too one-sided to summarize in a northeast.

Of course, in addition to watching the heavy snow in the border forest grassland lakes, there is also an important project to eat barbecue.

Northeast barbecue is really delicious, but it also leads to everyone's reminder that Northeast barbecue has only one label: delicious. Although this is already highly praised, it is too one-sided, resulting in people being too lazy to understand deeply, for example, there are Russian-style skewers, there are Inner Mongolian-style roast leg of lamb, there are Korean-style sweet and spicy skewers, and then subdivided into Hegang, Jiamusi, Jinzhou, Dandong, Hunchun and many other local small genres.

For example, I saw in Meituan's "2022 China Barbecue Industry Consumption Development Report" a while ago that in 2021, the number of northeast barbecue shops in Sanya increased by 66.67% year-on-year in 2020, and the online transaction order volume in 2021 increased by 48.18% year-on-year.

How to say it, Northeast Barbecue is like a book that can't be finished, with a string of surprises.

You'll never be able to eat all of Northeast Grill unless you go through every tun in the Northeast.

Although it is not like the villages and villages around Jiangsu and Zhejiang have different characteristics, in the northeast of 1.52 million square kilometers, it is not an exaggeration to say that one city has one barbecue characteristic. So you will find that the first sentence after the Northeast Big Brother in the barbecue restaurant is usually: What are the characteristics of your home?

The subtext of this sentence is: what kind of shop is opened without characteristics.

Liaoning Shenyang coal coke big fire roast chicken rack is the eternal king of the streets and alleys, several raw chicken racks are tiled in the iron mesh, under the fire, the chicken is cooked through the chicken bone scorched crisp, the thick scorched paste taste, is the fatal attraction of the chicken rack, but also the afterglow of Shenyang heavy industry.

Jilin Yanbian area is the main Korean style, grilled skewers marinated in advance, a table and a stove, below is a charcoal rack, above is the upper and lower two layers of barbecue grill, one layer of grilled meat insulation, do it yourself, eat fresh grilled. The marinated yellow beef is tender and juicy, dipped in dipping sauce, wrapped in suzi leaves, and the fragrance is wrapped in the aroma of meat, which is the food matching wisdom of the Korean people.

The characteristic of Qiqihar in Heilongjiang is the freshly cut beef and mutton, simply dry mixed and then grilled directly on the stove, which is known for its bluntness and fierceness. Here is close to the grassland, beef and mutton are good, every day there is a steady stream of fresh cattle and sheep transported over, good meat plus fresh, roasted meat caramel with a milk fragrance, on the stove to nourish the soul.

The characteristic of the same province Jiamusi is the scone sandwich meat skewers, the baked hair noodle cake is cut from it, the meat skewers are placed in it and clamped, and then the iron skewers are pulled out one by one, and the grease is slowly poured into the crust, and the aroma of the meat and grain after the roast is double superimposed, which is the temptation to eat dozens of skewers and come back.

Hegang, which is only 70 kilometers away from Jiamusi, is another style of barbecue, where people have done the beef to the extreme, and the small beef skewers are divided into three,700 and fully cooked, as well as different parts of the cow such as chest, heart tube, small intestine, and tendon skin. Looking at the menu, you must not help but sigh: in the matter of eating cattle, South Chaoshan and North Hegang.

To a lesser extent, even in Hegang, a city with a permanent population of only 900,000 people, each barbecue taste has its own innovation, and even my Hegang friend said that the regional summary is too biased, Northeast Barbecue, have to take the shop to summarize.

The so-called demand is a market, where there is a market, there is competition, and where there is competition, there is an internal volume.

So every time I go to a new place I am amazed at the wisdom of the people of the Northeast on barbecue. Even once felt that the northeast people opened up the northern wilderness, drilled out daqing oil, and the spirit of pioneering research has not disappeared, it continues in another way, that is, barbecue.

For example, in terms of concept, northeasterners are very finely divided. Northeast barbecue includes grilled meat, grilled skewers and others, if you see Zhao Si barbecue on the street, the probability is a kebab shop, see Liu Neng grilled meat, that is the barbecue shop, see the grilled chicken rack, grilled leg of lamb, that is the part of the specialty store.

In terms of what to bake, the northeast adheres to the principle that as long as it can be eaten, it can be roasted, such as Yitong roast pigeon, choose the eliminated carrier pigeon as raw material, wash it and inject the juice into the pigeon meat, first wrap the tin foil and bury it in charcoal to burn until it is eight ripe, and then roast it with open roasting. Carrier pigeons have less muscle and fat, and are firm and elastic to eat.

For example, the hairy egg, that is, the chicken fetus, when roasted, breaks a hole and skewers on the iron skewer, at this time the chicken with unfinished hair, but also soft bones, soft and smooth to eat.

Another example is roast beef bone marrow, tofu, silkworm pupae, eggs, pineapple, durian, dates, instant noodles, flying in the sky as long as you want, there is nothing that can not be roasted.

After roasting all the ingredients that can be eaten, the innovation of the Northeastern people in the barbecue has changed from horizontal development to vertical development, in addition to the crane gang mentioned above, the cattle are directly to the extreme, and the Northeastern people can also be like the Japanese roasted birds, the chicken is broken into fine pieces: the chicken head can be grilled, the chicken crown can also be grilled, and then there is the chicken neck, chicken breast and chicken legs, the wings are divided into three parts before, middle and back plus the chicken wings, the chicken rack is divided into crisp bones, collarbones and the whole, fragments are split into chicken hearts, chicken gizzards, chicken butts, and finally can not let go of chicken feet - Oh, This is called chicken feet in the northeast.

Different parts should be grilled differently, only flipping back and forth on the stove is the practice of novices, real masters, good at using ordinary seasonings to make the most perfect appearance of each meat. For example, chicken skin must be sprinkled with sugar, chicken racks in Fushun area are sprinkled with sugar and vinegar, small skewers in Changchun need to be walked in garlic water, and sheep in Inner Mongolia cannot have any seasoning, everything must be just right.

The same exaggeration is also the dipping sauce, to the smaller, the Northeast barbecue dipping sauce is divided into dry and wet ingredients, that is the same as the big one. For example, there are three kinds of dried ingredients in Qiqihar and Yanbian, which I call red and tongtong's special spicy, with peach crisp peanuts not spicy and the combination of the two slightly spicy.

Sauce is also divided into three kinds, the common is the secret soy sauce juice, put on a little green onion embellishment is ready, Yanbian area has a special spicy sauce, some garlic flavor is somewhat sweet, part of Liaoning dipped in sesame sauce, put a little sugar, pepper, and add a spoonful of cold noodle soup, Liaoning people are sweet to death.

Side dishes also vary from place to place – yes, you'll see rare leafy greens at a Tohoku BARBECUE. Yanbian likes to wrap grilled meat and skewers in suzi leaves, while other places are usually just lettuce.

Garlic and pepper rings are standard when cabbage, but in Jiamusi, Hegang, Jixi and other places, there are usually a few shallots on the table, and the shallots are mini versions of onions, which are strong but not too spicy, and the juice is also sweet.

Innovation is not only on the string, when the string has become close to perfection, the next thing to improve is the service.

You may have already seen the grandeur of the Northeast bathing, and just as the Northeast barbecue is no longer the food stall on the plastic bench on the side of the road.

Five years ago, I went to a kebab bar with resident singing and magic, and according to the owner of this shop, this is the first barbecue restaurant in Shenyang to do so, and since then it has been full every night, and the surrounding merchants have been imitating it. As for why it is so engaged, the boss only said one sentence: eat barbecue to try to be lively, it is better to make him more lively.

3 years ago, my sister's wedding bachelor party was also organized at the barbecue restaurant, you can also order songs and watch performances, but the most exaggerated thing is that you can scan the code on WeChat to send a bullet screen, so that night under my unremitting efforts, the whole kebab shop people know that my sister is going to get married tomorrow at the largest local restaurant.

Last year, I went back to my hometown to party with friends and wanted to find a quiet place to chat, but she took me to a string of shops, and I thought to myself, is this a throat nagging? Unexpectedly, this kebab shop was decorated like a café in Sanlitun, the sun hit my face, a bite of meat skewers and a bite of grilled buns, and in a trance I thought I was eating brunch on the banks of the Seine River in France.

▲ If I don't say, do you believe this is the decoration of the barbecue restaurant?

Before, I also saw a news: after 95, Hegang guys operated small skewers with annual income of millions, and the monthly salary of the skewer master was 6,000-8,000 yuan, and even some people joked about the boss's salary that "30 years can buy Hegang down."

I thought I had seen more of the market since I left toroku, but every time I went to a kebab shop, I deeply realized my ignorance and shallowness.

Even I want to say: how many surprises do you have that you don't know?

The recent surprise is that it has become easier and easier for me to eat kebabs in various parts of Northeast China.

The Hegang small string mentioned above alone, in the "2022 China Barbecue Industry Consumption Development Report" of the Meituan, it is said that the Online Stores of Hegang Small String have risen continuously, and in 2021, it has increased by 31.37% compared with last year, and in 2021, the related search volume of "Hegang Small String" has a year-on-year growth rate of 51.76%.

Although the population of the northeast has shrunk dramatically, the northeast people who go out either carry a barbecue technology to make the northeast barbecue shops bloom everywhere, or with the love and pickiness of barbecue, single-handedly improve the bottom line of the taste of all Chinese barbecue, and expand the boundaries of people's cognition of barbecue.

It's really not me blowing, Chinese barbecue can develop to this extent, and the northeast accounts for less than half of the credit.

Author - Ginger Ginger

Design - Full Director

Edit - Ginger Ginger