Last month, Louis Vuitton's Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection was officially launched at the Louvre in Paris, the first time louis Vuitton menswear design department created under the name of the group.
At the time of the release of the work, there are more and more voices on the Internet discussing who is the next creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear.
Louis Vuitton's Spring/Summer Menswear Show ended in the Square Square of cour Carrée at the Louvre in Paris, showing its imagination and endless creativity in a sea of yellow.
The paper airplanes that landed on the body, the fun dolls of childhood, and the cool mechanical devices made the scene and costume design a childlike garden. Singer Kendrick Lamar, Justin Timberlake, actress Jessica Biel and other stars also witnessed this creative festival.
On the other hand, Louis Vuitton CEO Michael Burke suddenly appeared in the British street brand Martine Rose menswear Spring/Summer 2023 show.
Martine Rose is back in London Fashion Week after two years, and Michael Burke's presence has led to a lot of discussion in the circle, and the most vocal Martine Rose is likely to be Louis Vuitton's next menswear creative director.
Looking back at the fashion journey of Martine Rose and Virgil Abloh, regional "subcultures" seem to have played an important role in their work. Virgil usually draws on American street culture such as skateboarding and graffiti, focusing on African-American culture, ethnic support and narrowing the distance between the street and high fashion, so that its reputation is rising.
Martine Rose draws inspiration from the British Raver and a small number of people to join the British class culture, which is also a breakthrough in capturing the support of the minority. Martine Rose's combination of fashion design and "subculture" is also an important reason for his appearance on LV's menswear creative director shortlist.
Martine Rose started as a shirt brand founded in 2007. For a long time, the brand stagnated and had no financial support, so that the first show only made one set of works, life and career were in a whirlpool, and in the year of the birth of the first child, she was even evicted from her residence, and the family was crowded in a makeshift house in the outer part of south-east London.
At that time, Demma Gvasalia, who had just been appointed artistic director of Balenciaga, threw an olive branch to Martine Rose as a menswear consultant. These three years of work experience provided absolute psychological and financial support to Martine Rose, who had never worked in a luxury brand job, and was a crucial influence on her personal brand transformation.
Growing up in a newcomer's family background, Martine Rose and growing up in South London, which has a strong subcultural atmosphere, inspired her. Martine Rose was influenced by her brother at the age of 14, a passion for music and club culture, and is deeply influenced by the sharp dance culture, but also by the unique fashion views of various marginal figures.
Martine Rose, rooted in the "subcultural community", knows the unique and deep cohesion of the subcultural community, which is why she creates with it at its core, and perhaps it is because of these experiences that Martine Rose has always been permeated with an atmosphere that is both retro and futuristic.
"Rebellion", as one of the innate temperaments of subculture, also had a profound impact on Martine Rose. Whether it is from her choice of shows and models; Or the final presentation in the design, it can be seen.
Martine Rose usually likes to hire unofficial models, and the location of the runway is placed in the scenes that can be seen everywhere in the daily life, and the realism that comes with integrating fashion into the daily life is the romance she gives to the costume design.
With its avant-garde and avant-garde "anti-fashion" design concept, Martine Rose has won the favor of many people. It was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize as early as 2017 and was nominated for the BFC Menswear Designer of the Year award twice in 2017 and 2018.
She knows how to use the cohesion and creativity of the current subculture to create retro and futuristic fashion items. Many people commented that Martine Rose's design is closer to daily life, avant-garde and practical wearing of the piece, many players are willing to pay for it.
Within a few years, Martine Rose and its eponymous brand had gained prominence as a new-age leading design force alongside Virgil Abloh and Demma Gvasalia.
Of course, what Virgil Abloh and Martine Rose have in common is that in addition to focusing on street fashion culture, it is also very important that they are very good at designing with other trend brands. During his tenure, Virgil Abloh has broadened the sneaker market with his strong skills and injected more sports elements and heat into the brand.
Martine Rose and Nike have maintained a close cooperative relationship, and the new form of sneakers in each cooperation, although always applauded, is still worth looking forward to.
Although Louis Vuitton has not yet announced the next creative director of menswear, martine Rose's talent and ability as the most influential black female designer at the moment is unquestionable.
Her love of contemporary youth culture and retro trends, through her design language to speak for subculture groups, let people see the multi-faceted nature of fashion. Regardless of whether he succeeds in the end, martine Rose is definitely worthy of the title of "Best Candidate" from cultural roots to design approach.