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Macao, May 2 (Xinhua) -- A bamboo pole, the inheritance of three generations, "liters" of bamboo noodles that have been passed down for more than 70 years. At the crowded and busy Macau Inner Harbor Pier, a lane called Renmu Lane hides "Liu Ji Congee Noodles". The boiling water is boiling and the fireworks are swirling, and the master is shaking the bamboo noodles commonly known as "jade liquid silver wire" down from the pot.
On April 28, the chef of the "Liu Ji Porridge Noodles" shook the bamboo noodles off the pot. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhang Jinjia
Zhusheng noodles are the traditional snacks of Guangdong, "jade liquid" refers to the yellow color of the dough, with eggs, duck eggs and alkali mixed with noodles, never add a drop of water in the middle, "silver wire" is the thin and tender shape of the noodles. When making this delicacy, people name it after the bamboo pole falling and falling, which also contains a good omen of "step by step".
Like many small shops in Macau, Liu Kee Porridge Noodles is also a model for shops downstairs and production rooms upstairs. At the corner of the cramped staircase, there are 12 medals of the same size – inscribed with the words "Michelin (Michelin) Food Guide Introduction", from 2011 to 2022. In a city that brings together the world's cuisines, Rokuki stands out and has maintained this prestigious award for 12 years.
Li Wenlong, the third-generation inheritor of Liuji porridge noodles, said that winning Michelin for 12 consecutive years is an affirmation of Liuji, but Liuji cares more about the recognition from diners.
On April 28, the chef of "Liu Kee Porridge Noodles" made large intestine noodles. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhang Jinjia
In a flash, Li Wenlong sat on a large bamboo pole with a length of three inches, and performed the noodle making on the spot. In a more than enough bounce of the blade, the bamboo poles continue to crush the dough, and the flour particles stick to each other. Seemingly easy is actually a physical work, Li Wenlong and the dough such a "seesaw" for nearly an hour, after ten thousand times of repeated crushing, in order to print a transparent and soft dough.
Li Wenlong said that why the laborious way of "bamboo liter" is because bamboo liter can dissolve the alkali flour noodles, and at the same time increase the pressure density, so that the noodles are smoother and more elastic and tasteful.
The process below the bamboo rise surface is also exquisite. The master put the noodles in a colander and quickly used long chopsticks to break up the dough, then quickly scooped the noodles up from the cold river, and finally put them back into the boiling water to blanch. In these three alternating hot and cold levels, the bamboo noodles are further crisp and elastic. Accompanied by fishy shrimp and special soy sauce, the rich flavor has become a favorite of many people.
On April 28, Li Wenlong, the third-generation inheritor of "Liuji Porridge Noodles", pressed bamboo noodles with large bamboo poles. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhang Jinjia
In 1945, Li Liu, the founder of "Liu Ji Congee Noodles", opened a "Liu Ji" food stall in the Sha Li Tau area of Macau, which was later passed to his son Li Mingjia, and now it is in the hands of his grandson Li Wenlong.
How can a shop that has been more than 70 years old continue? Li Wenlong said that the only way is to make ancient food cater to the tastes of modern people, and constantly innovate. Word-of-mouth food rice tong mud carp ball is the invention of Liuji, adding shrimp, bacon, tangerine peel to the mud carp "fish slip", kneading into a ball, and then dipping in crushed rice flour into the pan and frying, dipped in special clam sauce, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
Another signature dish of Liuji, water crab porridge, benefits from its unique "location" near the pier. Li Wenlong said that Macao is located at the junction of brackish and fresh water, and the fish, shrimp and crabs that survive are particularly delicious. After the water crab is slaughtered, the essence is all dissolved in the porridge, and the bright red crab shell is matched with snow-white rice porridge and tender green green onions, which are attractive in color and fragrant in porridge and crab.
Nowadays, "Liu Ji Porridge Noodles" is not only the favorite of many Macao people, but also the "must-eat list" of Macao recommended by mainland tourists.
"After Macao's return to the motherland, many mainland compatriots came to try our food, and guangdong compatriots were more likely to accept bamboo noodles, and after the return, our business was 80% better." Li Wenlong recalled that before the epidemic, there were often long queues at the door of Liuji, and by one or two o'clock in the morning, it was still full of people.
According to the Cultural Affairs Bureau of the Macao SAR Government, the bamboo noodle technique is easy to learn and difficult to refine, requires greater physical strength, and its inheritance needs urgent support. Today, only a few noodle makers still make bamboo noodles, which tend to decline. In 2020, the Cultural Affairs Bureau listed bamboo noodle making techniques as an intangible cultural heritage in Macao.
Li Wenlong said that after the epidemic, business has been greatly affected. But as a bamboo noodle master, we must do a better job of bamboo noodles and pass it on.
"My grandfather used to do this business for the family, for life, to my generation, not only for livelihood, but also to preserve the reputation of my father and my grandfather for more than seventy years, I did not think that my generation would be lost." 」 Li Wenlong said.
Two mainland students studying at Macau University of Science and Technology came from Taipa to eat noodles, and they ordered a meal according to the recommendations of the food website. "I'm here for the second time, and I love the taste." A student surnamed Chen said.
At dusk, the "late-night canteen" in Macau's mind has just opened, and the gourmets have already occupied the position of this small shop. A refreshing bamboo noodle, a bowl of fresh and dense water crab porridge, enough to warm the stomach and comfort the day.