"I'm sorry..." On August 4, the Tokyo Olympic Climbing All-Around Qualification Tournament ended with three competitions, and Athlete Song Yiling from Shenzhen finally ranked 12th, missing the climbing all-around final. After the game, her Weibo content quickly rushed to the hot search. Under the topic of #Song Yiling said I'm sorry,' many netizens comforted the post-00s general.
As a player who grew up as an amateur, 20-year-old Song Yiling was able to stand on the stage of the Tokyo Olympic Games with great success. In Song Yiling's Weibo comment area, the comment with the highest number of likes wrote, "Without you, we don't even know about the climbing project, it is you who let us see the efforts of Chinese in the climbing project!" We are proud of you! ”
China's Song Yiling competes in a rock climbing difficult event on August 4. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Chen Jianli
choose:
When shopping, I inadvertently make friends with rock climbing
In junior high school, he was suspended from school for two years
More than a decade ago in Shenzhen, rock climbing was a little-known sport, let alone a professional sport. Song Yiling's enlightenment coach Hong Lian was one of the first people in Shenzhen to establish a professional climbing club. "Admissions does not pay attention to the selection of talents, as long as anyone is interested, they will welcome people to try, free open rock wall for children to climb up to feel the fun of this sport."
Song Yiling was the first batch of students led by Hong Lian's coach. Hong Lian recalled, "In 2008, her family lived near our club, she was her father took her shopping, occasionally saw us this climbing wall, decided to let her try, did not expect to try it she liked it, and finally insisted on it." ”
Song Yiling did not cry when she first came to learn rock climbing, but she was also afraid. This is all normal, hanging in the air and looking down, it will be a little afraid of height. Under the protection of the coach, Song Yiling climbed to the top for the first time. The success of the challenge also immediately gave the little girl a lot of confidence, and although she had such and such hobbies since then, rock climbing has always been her favorite hobby.
"She has a more cheerful personality, and she began to cry before she did well in normal training, and soon adjusted her state." Hong Lian said that he still remembered that once when Song Yiling was practicing difficulty, an unstable hand fell down, and she was fine with a safety rope, but a big aunt who passed by directly fainted when she bumped into this scene and called an ambulance to give first aid.
Song Yiling also stopped practicing for two years when she first went to junior high school. Coach Hong said, "Because I am too busy with my schoolwork." In fact, he also knows that there are so many students coming and going in the club. Rock climbing, an interest class that does not help much for further education and employment, most parents will choose to give up. "When we meet a good seedling and say that we will not learn, we will regret it, but we can also understand."
Song Yiling said at that time that she would stop practicing, and the coaches of the club could only respect her and her family's choice. However, every time there is a game, they will still notify and suggest that Song Yiling try again. In the long run, Song Yiling was said to be moved again. 'After two years, she was back at the club and the results were getting better and better, exceeding a lot of people's expectations.
struggle:
Lost 14 pounds for the Olympic Games,
In the end, he missed the final due to a shoulder injury
In 2016, Song Yiling entered the national team. At the 2017 Asian Junior Climbing Championships, she won the Women's Group A Speed Race. In the same year, she participated in the Climbing World Youth Championships Speed Race and won the runner-up in the women's group, creating the best result in the history of Chinese athletes in the event. These achievements were all earned by Song Yiling with sweat. Coach Hong Lian stressed, "When I was in the national team, I had to train for 6 hours a day. This 6 hours will not be interrupted. ”
At the 2019 Speed Climbing World Cup Chongqing Jiulongpo Station, Song Yiling, who just won her first World Cup title in Moscow, once again achieved a historic breakthrough in this race, she finished with a time of 7.101 seconds, thus breaking the women's world record for speed climbing, and the title of "the fastest woman in the world" was crowned on Song Yiling's head.
It was with the outstanding advantage in the speed climbing project that Song Yiling was finally selected by the national team and qualified for the Tokyo Olympics. In order to prepare for the Olympic Games, Song Yiling has also been preparing "secret weapons" for most of the year, and also lost 14 pounds during winter training. "At that time, I only ate milk and cereal every day to maintain my fitness, hoping to create a surprise in Tokyo."
There are generally three types of international rock climbing competitions: speed, difficulty and bouldering. Since the Tokyo Olympics was the first time in history that rock climbing was an official event, there was only one major event, and the participants competed in the all-around, that is, speed, difficulty and bouldering, and the winner with the highest overall score won.
On August 4, in the first speed climb, Song Yiling won the third place in the preliminary round. But in the subsequent rock climbing competition, Song Yiling only scored one point on the first route, ranking 19th. In the last difficulty game, Song Yiling was also obviously out of shape. In the end, Song Yiling ranked 12th, unfortunately missing the final.
During the game, Song Yiling's left arm was wrapped in red tape. After the game, she admitted in an interview with Xinhua News Agency that "her shoulder is still hurting." National team coach Zhao Lei also said, "In many places, she can see how to do the action, but she just can't exert her strength, she really tried her best." Song Yiling has completed the game according to the arrangement of the coaching staff, and the results are acceptable. ”
Re-departure:
Participating in the Olympics for the first time was intense
"I'll be even stronger in three years!"
"She had injuries to both of her shoulders before the game, and she was shot in the Tokyo Olympics." Watching the whole game, Hong Lian told Nandu reporters that Song Yiling is a speed player, and this Olympic Games is more than the all-around. "It's like, a runner who runs a 100m, you want her to run a marathon."
Song Yiling's trip to the Tokyo Olympics has come to an end, and she will return to China in the near future to prepare for the next National Games after the end of quarantine. Hong Lian said, "After the National Games, she should concentrate on healing her shoulder injury and resting well." ”
For the future, Hong Lian feels that in the next Paris Olympic Games, the climbing project will have a separate speed race. "As long as Song Yiling continues to maintain her form, she has the opportunity to storm the Olympic medals." After the Olympic games, Song Yiling was also full of confidence. She told reporters that she was nervous about participating in the Olympic Games for the first time, but she was very happy that the projects she practiced could be displayed on the Olympic platform. "I'll be even stronger in three years!"
National team coach Zhao Lei said in an interview with Xinhua News Agency that although Song Yiling and 21-year-old male player Pan Yufei regretted not making it to the final, they had already played their own level. "They have a long way to grow, and they will have to accumulate more competition experience and broaden their horizons in the future." China Rock Climbing will also continue to prepare for the Hangzhou Asian Games and the Paris Olympic Games, and strive to catch up with the world-class level as soon as possible. ”
Last year, after qualifying for the Olympics, Song Yiling returned to the Bosheng Climbing Hall in Nanshan Shekou Garden. The first girl in Chinese history to participate in the Olympic climbing all-around competition wrote her name on the rock wall, inspiring all the children who came to learn to climb to the top.
Nowadays, there are many young players who come here to climb rock, and Coach Hong Lian no longer has to worry about not having good seedlings. "She's very talented, learning faster and better than the other students. From practicing in the club at the age of 7 to now embarking on the Olympic field, she is a good example for many of our children in Shenzhen. ”
Special topic coordinator: Nandu reporter Qiu Moshan
Written by: Nandu reporter Qiu Moshan Wang Yayun intern Huang Jingyi