In the long river of history, the pace of human pursuit of beauty has not stopped for a moment, and the beauty of women has never been the same.
Turning over ancient books and paintings, from Princess Shouyang's plum blossom makeup to Xue Lingyun's Feixia makeup, from Fei Xuedan, the secret formula of foundation for jade, to Wu Daixian's long moth eyebrows...
Seeking, cold and clear, is the beauty of clouds and rain; smiling and smiling, beautiful eyes, is handsome and bright beauty. Beauty is in the eyes to smile, eun Mei Man only, but also in the pink gold dress, flower tin red makeup.
The ability to be beautiful is innate, and women of any era like to pursue fashion and choose the right way to dress themselves. The fashion sense created by the old women Fu Fan Shi Zhu and thrush pointing lips is not at all inferior to modern women.
The Tang Dynasty poet Bai Juyi Youyun "Rainbow Xia Shuai Stride Shake Crown, Tin Ying Tired Pei Shanshan." ("Neon Dress Feather Dance Song") The makeup of ancient women's faces has always been the content of poets' chants, applying powder to the cheeks, decorating the forehead appliqués, drawing eyebrows and lips, and each step reveals delicacy.
The Dunhuang Flower Tin Greeting Card series products are based on the facial makeup of the donors in the Murals of the Mogao Grottoes, and the exquisite patterns and ornaments in the murals are selected and displayed in the form of popular tattoo stickers. High-quality materials and novel designs perfectly reproduce the popular "cosmetics" of a thousand years ago. "In front of the makeup cabinet of this dynasty, I found the old flower tin", pasted with the flower tin and shone in the mirror, this is an encounter between ancient and modern times, and it is also a fashion expression of classical beauty in the contemporary era.
(1) Flower tin, the finishing touch in classical makeup
Flower tin, is a common face decoration of ancient women, is a combination of appliqués, dot red, dot green.
In fact, there are countless beautiful and moving legends in the changes in Chinese women's makeup. The image of "Hua Dian" frequently appears in literary works, and when entering the artistic conception of Tang poetry, you can see the charming shadow of Hua Dian everywhere, as if traveling through time and space, catching a glimpse of the deep affection and ingenuity of ancient women.
The Tang Dynasty poet Li Shangyin said in a poem, "Princess Shouyang made up when she was married, and the eyebrows of the Eight-Character Palace held yellow foreheads." ”
Regarding the "plum blossom makeup", it is recorded in the Taiping Imperial Records that Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Liu Yu, the Emperor Wu of the Southern Song Dynasty, once lay on her back under His Highness Han Zhang. At that time, the plum blossoms were in full bloom, and the breeze blew and the plum blossom pieces flew down. A few petals landed right on the princess's forehead, and they could not go away, and after three days of washing, they fell, leaving spots on the princess's forehead. Imagine that Princess Shouyang was born very beautiful, and under the embellishment of that piece of plum blossoms, she became more and more beautiful. The palace ladies around the princess could not help but be greatly envious when they saw it.
This anecdote is only a few words in the history books, but it does not prevent "plum blossom makeup" from becoming a fashion makeup, and it has been very popular until the Fifth Tang Dynasty.
Ouyang Xiu of the Northern Song Dynasty also wrote the phrase "light frost on the curtain in the morning, try plum makeup with his hands". However, plum blossoms are not common, so they are cut into petal shapes with paper and pasted on the forehead. Later, there were also a variety of patterns, such as butterflies, phoenixes or various abstract patterns, etc., collectively known as "flower tin", or "flower seeds" and "face flowers". In addition to the forehead and eyebrows, it will also be attached to the face and the sideburns.
Although this plum blossom makeup does not look complicated, it is the finishing touch in the classical makeup, and you can see at a glance what is called "only plum blossoms are different".
I think that back then, Mulan returned from nine deaths on the battlefield, and to restore her daughter's body, "appliqué yellow" is a necessary step. The golden paper is cut into patterns such as flowers and birds and pasted on the forehead, which is said to be inspired by the Buddha statues of women who believed in Buddhism in the Southern Dynasty and loved beauty and seeking new ideas.
The Tang Dynasty poet Lu Zhaolin wrote: "The pieces are clouded with cicada sideburns, and the slender first moon is duck yellow." "It's all about this makeup. However, in the era of Mulan, the yellow "flower yellow" was common, and in the period of Lady Houshu Huarui, the green "Cuidian" became the most popular. As Madame Hua Rui's "Palace Words" depicts, "In front of the jade sills of the doucao deep palace, the spring pu is like an arrow like money." I don't know who the red medicine is dry, and who falls in the twilight."
(2) Ancient female flowers in Dunhuang murals are ingenious
Dunhuang murals are a world cultural heritage, and there are more records of flowers and tin materials in the murals. Studies have shown that in the Dunhuang murals, from the early Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty female providers, five plum blossoms were pasted on their foreheads.
The Heavenly Daughter in the 220th Cave of Mogao Cave Vimal, with a cloud-headed flower on her forehead.
Portrait of the female provider of the south wall of the 130th Cave of Mogao Caves, The Eleventh Woman of Taishou Le Ting, Jinchang County, has five plum blossoms on her forehead, and the sides of the bun and cheeks are red, and the cheeks are decorated with green.
Yulin Cave 25, Middle Tang Dynasty. Three women who are saying goodbye to their loved ones. The former is an old woman, combing back into a bun, dressed in a white shirt, sauce-colored skirt, green drapery, and wat head shoes. The latter two combed the bun, arranged flowers and horn combs, and wore chest tops, painting drapes, long skirts, and decorated with flower tins.
Mogao Caves Cave 146, Five Generations. The maid wears a rare flat crown, a floral tin on her forehead, a colorful striped skirt, a cloud pattern on her shoulders, and a draped bun, which is a maiden's attire.
Mogao Caves Cave 61, Five Generations. The female patron, Princess Yu Khotan, wore a noble Tang dress, a large lotus phoenix crown on her head, with a flower and a flower, and a zhai robe and a scarf. The crown and necklace are studded with jade gemstones, showing the local characteristics of Khotan's abundant jade. The face is also modeled after Han makeup, with elaborate makeup and appliqués, which are both large and dense. Its attire is noble, showing a prominent status and status.
The fifth generation of female providers on the north wall of the main room of Cave 61 of Mogao Caves are decorated with tungsten flowers on the side of the bun, cheeks and cheeks, and the Northern Song Dynasty on the south side of the east wall of the same cave makes Lady Cao Yanlu and Princess Li of Khotan even more full of appliqués.
From the many murals, it is not difficult to find that the ancient women's flower patterns in the Dunhuang murals are not only rich, but also ingenious and eclectic.
(3) Dunhuang Flower Tin Greeting Card Classical beauty is a fashion expression in contemporary times
Based on such a rich cultural connotation, Dunhuang Research Institute relies on the achievements of cultural relics digitization resources, from the perspective of practicality and artistry, to design the typical elements such as flowers and tins in the grotto murals, and launch cultural and creative products that reflect cultural value and artistic value. Let Dunhuang culture be able to walk out of the Mogao Grottoes and get close to the public.
The Dunhuang Flower Greeting Card is designed in the style of calligraphy in Dunhuang literature in the form of storytelling, with a simple and elegant appearance and good wishes. The front and back cover are printed with Dunhuang Grottoes murals and Qing rhymes, which can appreciate the Dunhuang Grottoes culture. The album is based on Dunhuang colors, introduces the use of methods, and draws hand-drawn line drawings, so that the process of decal tin is clear and ritualistic. Scan the QR code and enjoy the "Digital Dunhuang" to discover more stories behind the murals.
Opening the Dunhuang Flower Tungsten Greeting Card seems to open a journey across time and space.
Princess Yu Khotan, the female provider of the 61st cave of mogao caves, wrote in the Dunhuang song lyrics that "rhinoceros jade is full of flowers", and in the turbulent years at that time, as the daughter of Khotanese Cao Yijin, what kind of mood and vision did she carry under the dress?
The nineteenth cave of Yulin Cave, the Lady of Liangguo in the Five Dynasties Period, the former beauty has been transformed into a person in the painting, full of tin, ringing and jingling, telling the elegance of a thousand years ago. Today, when you put on the flower tin, do you also feel this warm luster?
The four flower greeting cards with the theme of blooming, flourishing, prosperous and wise are making the affection and ingenuity of ancient women become today's fashion in a fresher way.
Wen Tu 丨 Benliu news reporter Jing Wen