A dial aesthetic that challenges the trends of the times
Tank was introduced in the early 20th century when the round dial was the mainstream choice.
In the face of the popularity of the time, Cartier did not stop there, but made many attempts at the diversification of the dial shape, representing a breakthrough in style, the Tank watch came into being: in 1917, Louis Cartier drew inspiration from the perspective of looking down on the tank and designed the rectangular Shape Oft watch. The dial design takes the contours of the tank as lines and shapes: the tracks are changed into vertical lugs on both sides, while the body extends into a case shape.
With precise control of geometry and lines, Tank's design allows the lugs and straps to be integrated, creating a unique and elegant shape with smooth lines. At the same time, the exquisite embodiment of details including the cabochon gem crown, the Roman numerals on the dial, the orbital minute scale and the blue steel hands make this Cartier watch one of the masterpieces.
The Tank watch came at the time of World War I, and the prototype model released in 1919 was given to John Pershing, commander-in-chief of the U.S. Expeditionary Force in Europe, during the truce, and the chapter belonging to Tank began.
A classic design achievement icon
As one of Cartier's seven iconic collections, Tank watches have always adhered to Cartier's four design standards: simple lines, precise shapes, symmetrical proportions and precious details, continuing Cartier's timeless style. Starting from the design, with the precise grasp of geometric shapes and the in-depth exploration of modern aesthetics, it has surpassed the trend to become a classic.
Since its inception, tank watches have been all the rage with their simple and smooth lines and well-defined shapes, and they are still sharp under the change of trends and aesthetics over the past century.
Must de Cartier: A whole new way of life
"The 'Must' series has become an important part of Cartier's heritage. Its at-a-glance style and meticulous craftsmanship make this collection of watch pieces timeless. ”
—Pierre Rainero, Cartier's Director of Image Style and Heritage
Influenced by the pursuit of a flamboyant lifestyle in the 1970s and 1980s, Cartier introduced a new design concept, creating Les Must de Cartier in 1973, selecting the brand's iconic elements to incorporate lighters, leather goods, pens, perfumes, glasses and other works. With a focus on detail and a vision of style, the Les Must de Cartier collection opens a new chapter in brand design with a wide range of products.
In 1977, at the height of the collection, Cartier introduced a series of gold-plated timepieces that continued the style of the Louis Cartier Tank watch. The dial is particularly marked with the "Must" and double "C" logos, and the use of Burgundy red is a precious material reminiscent of jewelry pieces, making it an impressive piece in the collection.
Artists make the same choice
As a unique design model, the Tank watch has always been a highly recognizable aesthetic fashion mark. With its simple lines, precise and harmonious proportions, and the free spirit it represents, it is favored by celebrities from all walks of life, and establishes special emotional bonds across gender and times.
Since its inception, Tank watches have been loved by artists with unique aesthetics and elegant pursuits. From Yves Montand to Andy Warhol, from Catherine Deneuve to Patti Smith to Charlotte Rampling, they were all talented and made their mark on their time. And the Tank watch on their wrist is a testimony to the personal style of these artists with different styles.
Andy Warhol, a loyal fan of Tank watches, once said that he did not wind up a Tank watch, seeing it as a symbol of style:
"I don't wear a Tank watch to see the time. Actually, I never wind it up. I wear a Tank watch because it is the most suitable choice! ”
With the passage of time, the charm of tank watches lasts forever, accompanying people who have the ultimate pursuit and desire for beauty to interpret the wonderful life inside and outside the camera. This year, Cartier, together with five international avant-garde photographers – Luis Alberto Rodriguez, Coco Capitán, Moath Alofi, Takahara and Satoshi Saikusa convey a unique artistic perception with a self-portrait of Tank on their wrists, which is also the best representation of the spirit of Tank.
Inside the camera, they express their personality in Tank, freeze-frame and elegant, and off-camera, they unleash their talents and bring unique and charming creations: Luis Alberto Rodriguez, a photographer with multiple identities, challenges the established model to create innovative works that integrate the experience of professional dancers into photography; emerging photographer Coco Capitán interprets her sensual and dramatic perspective into artistic personal creation; and adventure photographer Moath Alofi is dedicated to unearthing unexplored areas and giving voice to an unfamiliar civilization; photographer Takahara documents the mania of the rock age from a personal perspective; and fashion photographer Satoshi Saikusa demonstrates his understanding of fashion that combines multiple elements to produce a strong visual impact.
Cartier's new Tank series watches
In 2021, continuing the styling of the Louis Cartier Tank watch, the Tank Must watch has revolutionized the design and movement on the basis of respecting the original design: through the innovation of the dial scale cutout, a new solar movement selection has been brought, the details of the lugs have become more rounded, the replaceable steel bracelet with curved links makes it more comfortable to wear, and the leather strap model returns to the traditional combination of pin buckles.
The new series also features a monochromatic model that pays homage to the fashion trends of the Must collection in red, blue and green that are reminiscent of precious gemstones. Tank Louis Cartier's new watch chooses a combination of blue with 18K rose gold, red and 18K gold, and then shows the classic aesthetic.
TANK MUST Watch:
Innovative use of solar dials and non-animal material straps
Since its inception, Cartier has actively promoted technological progress and has always adhered to its commitments in the field of environmental protection and biodiversity, so as to realize the pursuit of continuous improvement and innovation of brand watchmaking.
Cartier successfully applied the optoelectronic principle to the dial of Tank watches, while retaining the original design aesthetic. At the heart of this technological feat lies in the near-invisible, beautifully cut-out pores on the Roman numerals hour markers through which solar energy can reach the photovoltaic cells beneath the dial. It took the development team two years to create this SolarBeatTM movement, with an average service life of about 16 years. The Tank Must is the first Cartier timepiece to carry this movement.
This watch is also groundbreakingly paired with an innovative material strap to ensure exceptional quality and comfortable wear of the human body. The strap contains about 40% of the plant raw materials, which are processed from apple waste from the food processing industries in Switzerland, Germany and Italy.