Author: Matt
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The third phase of our B station column SAY IVY is online~
Hello everyone, this is the IVY Lab, and I'm Matt wearing a gold buckle Navy Blazer for the New Year. That's right, I've been in love ever since I got KUFFYLINK's gold buckle Navy Blazer. Do you remember the title of our first IVY Lab? "Everybody Has to Have a Gold Buckle Navy Blazer" isn't a joke (click on the title to review)! Whether it's an undershirt or a regular T-shirt, it looks great. But at the end of the day, it's always a suit, and I found that I still have to wear a shirt inside.
image：jpress-and-sons.com
But! You know, in the traditional Ivy style, not just a shirt can be used to wear this role inside the gold-buttoned Navy Blazer. The best companion for this blazer is only the OCBD shirt (OCBD full name "Oxford Cloth Button Down", i.e. Oxford spinning button-down shirt), why?
image：IG@brooksbrothers
This is to briefly tell the historical story. The earliest button-down collared shirts appeared in the British sport of tennis and polo to avoid the collar from flying around when playing. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, John E. Brooks, the third-generation head of Brooks Brothers, introduced the design to the United States and began selling it under the name "Polo Shirt". That said, shirts were expensive at the time, and for durability and line, most people would use replaceable sizing collars, very stiff and tight (breathless ones), so when Brooks Brothers introduced this shirt that was integrated with the body and had a soft collar, it was a sensation. In the following decades, it was also slowly loved by the ivy league students, and gradually became the universal code name for the Ivy League elite.
In addition, although Oxford cloth is no longer the only choice for button-down shirts, in the eyes of Ivy enthusiasts, only button-neck shirts made of Oxford cloth are the most orthodox IVY Style pieces. Because the early OCBD shirts only used specially custom oxford cloth (otherwise how can it be called "Oxford Cloth"?). There is a saying that it originated from the tradition of frugality in the United States at that time, when there is a good dress, even if it is worn, it will continue to be worn through seams, so Oxford cloth with wear-resistant characteristics naturally becomes the first choice.
The aging of the Oxford cloth is also considered a status symbol in the Ivy League, and the famous literary theorist Edward Said wrote in his memoir "Out of Place" that he personally saw two Princeton classmates rubbing sandpaper on a brand new OCBD shirt in an attempt to make the dress look more statusable. | image：IG@jpressclothiers
History is over, but as today's title says, not every Oxford button-down shirt can be called OCBD. One of its biggest and most important features is the "Collar Roll". Because the collar of an OCBD shirt must be soft oxford cloth without a hard collar, after the collar button is buttoned, it will present a wonderful "S" shaped arc, which Ivy fans also refer to as "angel wings". This is the result of the three major points of fabric, tailoring and accessories, which can be said to be OCBD shirt without this curve!
image：propercloth.com
Regarding the cut of Collar Roll, there is another important point that needs to be explained to everyone, that is, the appropriate collar height. As mentioned in many early sources, OCBD shirts were almost always equipped with high neck heights, and only this long, pointed collar design could ensure a graceful curve when combined with the buttons. And now a lot of shirts on the market, the height of the collar is generally low, then Collar Roll naturally has no good looks.
image：menswearmusings.com
A low-necked height like this can hardly render the Collar Roll. | image：mrporter.com
Although I say that the design of the collar is simple, these are all details that have not received attention in the domestic market. But don't worry, KUFFYLINK is a good partner for everyone, because our OCBD shirts are based on the shirt collar of the 50s-70s Ivy style heyday, and the high collar is enough to show the "angel's wings", even when not wearing a tie, it can make people look very temperamental.
Although this shirt is not the loose fit that young people like to see now, in fact, for most friends, the fit of the classic OCBD shirt is enough, slightly looser than the common slim-fit shirt, which can be worn alone and compatible with the inside of the suit.
Speaking of collars, I would also like to talk about the detail of the collar in particular, because this part, like the top collar height, is a focus that is ignored by young consumers. In fact, whether it is in the traditional shirt or in the Ivy style, the shirt collar is a very important data, if it is too large, it is not exquisite (it is not a bad problem, it looks scruffy). KUFFYLINK's OCBD shirt will refer to the size of the neck of the Chinese in the design of the collar, and it will not be too large or too small.
Regarding the problem of collar, perhaps Hasegawa sensei is also responsible for some "responsibility"... But if you just look at the tweet next to his picture, you can see that he actually likes a loose body, not a collar, and if the collar is too large, he will feel very sloppy. | image：[email protected]
In this comparison, is the collar of KUFFYLINK much more pleasing to the eye?
The above points are the design elements that a qualified OCBD shirt must have at least. But that's not all, just like the difference between "good" and "better", although it also has the above design points, KUFFYLINK will also have more advantages than similar products in many places.
The first was the "Locker Loop" under the collar at the back, which was originally designed to allow rattan students to hang their shirts in the lockers so that they were less likely to wrinkle. Underneath the "Ivy Ring", the back pleats that are also standard for OCBD shirts can increase the movement space of the back to a certain extent.
Come to the front, is the symbol of the grade - "custom white butterfly shell buttons", each one is engraved with the words "KUFFYLINK", to this, but also have to mention the button problem, because now many shirts are too unobtrusive, first of all, there must be seven buttons on the chest, and then the size of the buttons on the upper and lower parts of the cuffs should also be different, this is a matter of principle Ah friends. BTW, there must also be a Panel Front under the buttons on the chest.
The hem of our OCBD shirt also has a sword-shaped reinforcement, which is actually not a necessary element of OCBD shirts, but Japan's senior IVY Style players will also recognize this, and even BEAMS F's OCBD shirts have adopted such a design, so it is necessary to refer to the drop ~ Besides, the texture has also come up. In addition, the front of the clothes is short and the back is long, which is also the most ideal fit for OCBD shirts.
At this point, what you see is a rare OCBD shirt on the market (be modest). But please stay, the collocation link is coming, although at the beginning, the gold partner of the gold buckle Navy Blazer is OCBD shirt, but OCBD shirt does not think so, ah, the following or directly look at the picture.
image：《POPEYE》/《2nd》
You see, in a lot of collocations, we actually need an authentic OCBD shirt as an underwear, and the temperament is pinched. And compared to the city Boy's loose shirt, or this normal fit OCBD shirt is more suitable for use as an underlay. What the? Are you missing other go-to pieces? No problem, KUFFYLINK can also satisfy you, we just happened to be on the shelves with a rugby shirt in a special color scheme (the story behind this color matching will be left to talk to you about next week), a Princeton University cardigan, and now quite rare, with a V-ribbed cuffs, round neck sweatshirt.
Yes, they all conform to KUFFYLINK's guidelines, and like today's OCBD shirts, they are not alternative items that can be found casually, but due to the length of the article, we can only sell them to everyone first. Of course, you can also buy them together with OCBD shirts and study them first, and in the next article, we will discuss them together.
OCBD White Shirt Tao Password
tk=9cby23PDUZm
OCBD blue and white striped shirt tao password
h.fm4PjZn?tk=Bgrw23qZFn7
Finally, I would like to say that in fact, in terms of appearance alone, KUFFYLINK's OCBD shirt is really no different from most similar items on the market, after all, the simpler the more difficult it is to see the difference. At the same time, because many consumers are less and less concerned about these details (such as the collar height and collar of the shirt), some brands are becoming less and less exquisite (the vicious circle of proper ah). And in such an atmosphere, shouldn't we know what is "right"? If you have a shirt need, why not try KUFFYLINK's authentic OCBD shirt first?
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