My family moved to Harbin when I was 7 years old, and I heard my mother say from a young age that this city is the little Paris of the East. Later expansions in the nineties caused a lot of damage to the city, but which city was not like this?
The most impressive news is the daily delivery to the home life newspaper, there is a period of time, there is a frequent appearance of a person's name on it, our city's young general Kong Linghui won the provincial championship, our city's young general Kong Linghui won the national championship, our city's young general Kong Linghui won the world championship. Suddenly, all kinds of recognition news followed.
When I was a child, my family lived opposite The Big Black, and I felt that a trip to a museum was a long distance away, and I rarely went there. Later, when I returned to Harbin, I deliberately walked on foot, which was not far away, especially after the opening of the subway, which arrived soon. By the way, I actually went to the museum to see what it was like inside. In fact, the museum is not large, there are dinosaurs or something in it, and the history of Heilongjiang is not detailed. Back in the university group, I asked everyone who went to the museum, and sure enough, no one had ever been.
It has been almost 20 years since I left my hometown of Heilongjiang, and the first 10 years seem to have a gradually blurred impression of Harbin, because living in a place, I am not necessarily familiar with this place. What's more, not many places have been, and the city has changed a lot. However, as he grew older and traveled to all the provinces in the country, Harbin's impression in his mind became clear. The years are always inadvertently, giving you a gentle sadness.
Songhua River Bridge
opera house
In the past, it was train-based, and now it is a trail
Flood Control Memorial Tower, Songhua Riverside
Celebrate the centenary of the founding of the Party
At the end of the summer of 2021, I made a special trip to Harbin, stayed for 10 days, rode my bicycle every day to visit the city, and some old classmates, and look for snacks from local legends.
Although almost all cities have undergone tremendous changes in recent years, Harbin has changed in a relative way. Many people respect the design of the Harbin Opera House, and it is indeed very beautiful, and the wetlands around the opera house are very suitable for leisure walks. But in many parts of the streets, it seems that nothing has changed in 30 years. From the old road to the outside of the old road, from the inner roads of Tongda Street and Xing Road to Heilongjiang University and Clothing City, many places look the same as 30 years ago.
Changes are not absent, and the former depression clearings are now bustling neighborhoods. I have always wanted to go to Harbin Normal University to see beautiful women, and my friends who graduated from Harbin Normal University always praised how beautiful the girls there were. Nowadays, the night there is famous for its bustling night, Shida Night Market, crowds of people, beautiful women have not seen a few, want to eat anything to queue for a long time. There have been booms and busts, and the sandao Street, where I grew up walking to school, is now full of potholes and water, and on both sides of the road are dilapidated shops, which are worse than 30 years ago. Xuefu Road next to the 211 Hospital, although the building was built, but the reputation has plummeted, in the past the hospital door is the most famous is the old man who bought newspapers, I grew up every day passing by can see him, but also bought from him the sports weekly newspaper. Once I asked him how many years he had been here, and the old man said he had been buying newspapers for 57 years. I never saw him again.
Sandao Street
When we were young, we traveled to the Songhua River, and now it is also the place where Internet celebrities from all over the country punch cards. It's really nice, really pretty. The railway bridge is connected to the wetland and can be walked over. The various Russian-style buildings along the river are like strolling through Pushkin's poetic works. I think this is the biggest change, and probably the face of the people of Harbin. The famous Central Avenue, the change is not too big, the most popular among foreign tourists, naturally is the Madier popsicle. I don't want to favor Harbin, but the ice cream popsicles here are the best I've ever eaten, and there's no place in China that can compare.
Riverside trails
How many years has this carriage been
Get a popsicle
Russian style
Roadside buildings that are more easily overlooked
Every summer Harbin Music Festival and Beer Festival
Huamei Western Restaurant disappointed me, because when I was a child, I never dared to go in, and I didn't have the money to go to such a "high-end restaurant". When I came back as an adult, I went in to eat again, and I thought the bread was delicious and the red cabbage soup was delicious. Gradually, this place has also become an Internet celebrity punch card, and several times I went back to Harbin to eat, but I didn't go in because there were too many people. This time I went again, the things I felt were not human, the diners talked, the price of bread and red cabbage soup doubled, but the taste was far from the memory. We know that the service of the state-run hotel is very poor, and now we can feel the awareness of the staff to provide guests with good service, but the handling of the problem is still very unheated. I watched the takeaway area quarrel with the customers, and I thought that because of the 5 cents they had been arguing for a long time, so I simply got it for the old lady.
In addition to eating and drinking, the bath is really great, the tickets are not expensive, there are various pools and sweat steaming inside. The food in the bath is also very good, even if it is a bowl of cold noodles, or a few dishes, the price is not expensive and delicious, and the massage is also good. It is true that in places with cold climates, it is understandable that bathing culture prevails. When I used to go to Finland, people there proudly said that 5 million Finns had 3 million saunas.
A bowl of cold noodles at the bathing place is less than 10 yuan
The baths are varied and really beautiful
There are disappointments and surprises. In the outside of the old Dingfeng, eating a popsicle can not stop, it is really delicious, full of milk, and then ate for two consecutive days, and brought back the ice cream to eat. When I was a child, I rarely came here, because this side was the most broken and poor. But later, because of the credit of photographers and some TV programs, it became a place for Internet celebrities to punch cards. There are too many food shops and snacks hidden outside the road, and Korean foodie Baek Jong-won once filmed "Street Food Fighter", one episode is about Harbin.
In the play, I came to a shabby old shop, not even a door sign, and ate fried liver here, so that the spectators could swallow their saliva. I found out that it was called Lao Wan Restaurant, and the door was really called a broken. There are a lot of people eating, after the meal point again, I saw the boss said that he came to admire the name, the boss said that it was not as good as the Internet said, but the price was very good, I ordered the tip of the liver, with a little large intestine or something, the portion is not large, the boss asked 65 to eat or not, I said eat, how not to eat. The taste is really good. In the few days here, what kind of roasted wheat, pot wrapped meat, belly wrapped meat, barbecue, burritos, blood sausages, cold noodles, vegetable rolls, red sausages and so on. Except for the legend of Zhang Bao Shop how delicious the pot wrapped meat, other things are very suitable for my appetite.
Ate popsicles and bought ice cream, but it was still delicious
The old wan restaurant door face
Old Wan Restaurant
It is said that during the epidemic, only this one survived the four-way street restaurant of the academy
Recently, Harbin seems to be popular to eat spicy noodles, to be honest, it is not my taste
Struggle Road vice food shop, meat eating paradise, feel less lively than in the past
The belly bun meat was delicious
Dry and hard Zhang Baopu pan wrapped meat, many people are admiring this dish
My favorite Harbin style shredded fish and meat
There's one thing I want to resonate with a lot of people. Everyone's impression of Harbin is mainly ice and snow, as well as Russian style, but the food here is more neglected, I think it is no less than Chengdu Chongqing and other famous food capitals. It's a bit like Macau, where there are a lot of old shops with a history hidden.
But the biggest thing I think about Harbin is the road. The construction of the city is quite unfriendly to bicycles, not to mention that in the densely populated old town, the roads are narrow, and there are cars parked everywhere, even on the wide main road, the road left for bicycles is a narrow line, it is difficult to imagine that it is so narrow, and it can cultivate superb technical skills. Of course, the driving path is not necessarily very scientific, I rented a car to go around the city, twice almost friction, and the three left turn roads are also a bit strange.
Driving to Hulan, remember Xiao Hong's "Hulan Biography", and the once legendary Hulan hero. The impression is very far away, but it is not far away from the real drive. The brothers who used to live in the same room in the university always brought fresh milk from Hulan, but this time they drove there, but they couldn't find the cows, and what they saw was a bustling neighborhood scene.
There is also a good place, that is, volga manor. It's super big, with all sorts of Russian architecture, and here you'll also taste vodka with ice, and wine glasses made of ice. If you like to take pictures and bring your girlfriend, it's really good here, and you don't have to queue up to play the snow slide in winter.
Volga Estate
Wine glasses made of ice
I have been wandering outside for more than ten years, many friends and colleagues mentioned Harbin, all full of magic and yearning, many people's first impression is that it is a beautiful city. When I was in Harbin, I gathered with my classmates, but I obviously felt that everyone had a lying flat attitude, after all, they were already this age. Some students did not go out when they were young, and now that they are older, they have a trace of regret in it. What impressed me most was that when a class of students gathered in Beijing, everyone showed their fitness achievements and hobbies, while in Harbin, it was beer barbecue, talking about professional title exams and so on.
I always feel that life is a difficult thing to say clearly. Just like the astronomy-loving mayor in the name of the people, in the eyes of the universe, what about us? But living here, and living elsewhere, is all about living, even surviving. I like Harbin, I like my hometown, and when I see some unpleasant places, I may be more angry. Harbin University is lined with young people, but the loss of young people is serious, and the scenery is beautiful, attracting countless people who have never come. I think that the people inside want to come out, and the people outside want to go in, which is the common sentiment of people, and the same contradictions are also in my personal thoughts, sometimes thinking about the beauty of my hometown, sometimes thinking of forgetting.